On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 30

powered farm machinery meant that cattle
could be bred and raised for milk production
alone,notforacompromisebetweenmilkand
hauling, so milk production boomed, and
more than ever was drunk fresh. With the
invention of machines for milking, cream
separation, and churning, dairying gradually
movedoutthehandsofmilkmaidsandoffthe
farms, which increasingly supplied milk to
factoriesformassproductionofcream,butter,
andcheese.
Fromtheendofthe19thcentury,chemical
andbiologicalinnovationshavehelpedmake
dairyproductsatoncemorehygienic,more
predictable,andmoreuniform.Thegreat
FrenchchemistLouisPasteurinspiredtwo
fundamentalchangesindairypractice:
pasteurization,thepathogen-killingheat
treatmentthatbearshisname;andtheuseof
standard,purifiedmicrobialculturestomake
cheesesandotherfermentedfoods.Most
traditionalcattlebreedshavebeenabandoned


infavorofhigh-yieldingblack-and-white
Friesian(Holstein)cows,whichnowaccount
for90%ofallAmericandairycattleand85%
ofBritish.Thecowsarefarmedineverlarger
herdsandfedanoptimizeddietthatseldom
includesfreshpasturage,somostmodern
milklacksthecolor,flavor,andseasonal

variationofpreindustrialmilk.
DairyProductsToday Todaydairyingissplit
intoseveralbigbusinesseswithnothingofthe
dairymaidleftaboutthem.Butterandcheese,
once prized, delicate concentrates of milk’s
goodness, have become inexpensive, massproduced, uninspiring commodities piling up
in government warehouses. Manufacturers
now remove much of what makes milk,
cheese, ice cream, and butter distinctive and
pleasurable: they remove milk fat, which
suddenly became undesirable when medical
scientists found that saturated milk fat tends
to raise blood cholesterol levels and can