On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 334
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themostluxurious.
Sausages
ThewordsausagecomesfromtheLatinfor
“salt,”andnamesamixtureofchoppedmeat
andsaltstuffedintoanedibletube.Saltplays
twoimportantrolesinthesausage:itcontrols
thegrowthofmicrobes,anditdissolvesone
ofthefiberfilamentproteins(myosin)outof
themusclefibersandontothemeatsurfaces,
whereitactsasagluetobindthepieces
together.Traditionallytheediblecontainer
wastheanimal’sstomachorintestine,andfat
accountedforatleastathirdofthemixture.
Todaymanysausagesarehousedinartificial
casingsandcontainfarlessfat.
Thereareaninfinitenumberofvariations
onthesausagetheme,butmostofthemfall
intoahandfuloffamilies.Sausagesmaybe
soldrawandeatenfreshlycooked;theymay
befermented;theymaybeair-dried,cooked,
and/orsmokedtovaryingdegreesinorderto
keepforafewdaysorindefinitely.Themeat
andfatmaybechoppedintodiscretepiecesof
varyingsize,ortheymaybedisintegrated,
blendedtogether,andcookedintoa
homogeneousmass.Andthesausagemay
eitherbemostlymeatandfat,oritmay
includeasubstantialproportionofother
ingredients.
EarlySausageRecipes
Lucanians
Poundpepper,cumin,savory,rue,parsley,
seasoning, bay berries, andliquamen
[salted fish sauce], and mix with wellpoundedflesh,grindingbothtogether.Mix
i nliquamen, whole peppercorns, plenty of
fat and pine-nuts, force into an intestine
stretchedthinly,andhanginsmoke.
—Apicius,firstfewcenturiesCE
LiverSausage(EsiciumexIecore)
