On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1029

producedbyflourandyeastenzymesin
unbalancedamountsduringintensivemixing
andhigh-temperatureproofing.
AScientificDefinitionofBreadQuality
Raymond Calvel is an eminent figure in
the world of baking, a researcher and
teacher who made great contributions to
the understanding and improvement of
bread quality in postwar France. His
definition of high quality in good French
breaddoesn’tnecessarilyapplyindetailto
otherbreadstyles,butitshowshowmuch
thereistoappreciateinawell-madeloaf.
A good bread — a real quality loaf — …
will have a creamy white crumb. The
proper creamy-white color of the crumb
shows that the dough oxidation during
mixing has not been excessive. It also
presages the distinctive aroma and taste
thatareasubtleblendofthescentofwheat


flour—thatofwheatgermoil,alongwith
the delicate hint of hazelnut aroma that
comes from the germ. All of these are
combinedwiththeheadysmellthatcomes
from alcoholic dough fermentation, along
withthediscreetaromasthataretheresults
of caramelization and crust baking…. the
grain of French bread should be open,
marked here and there by large gas cells.

These should be thin-walled cells, with a
lightlypearlescentappearance.Thisunique
structure, resulting from the combination
of numerous factors including the level of
dough maturation and the loaf forming
method, is basic to the eating qualities,
flavor, and gustatory appeal of French
bread.
—TheTasteofBread,transl.R.L.Wirtz.
SpecialKindsofLoafBreads:
Sourdough,Rye,Sweet,
Gluten-Free