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oilhasseveralrolestoplay:itbringsthe
unevensurfaceofthefoodintouniform
contactwiththeheatsource,itlubricatesand
preventssticking,anditsuppliessomeflavor.
Asistrueinbroiling,thetrickinfryingisto
preventtheoutsidefromovercookingbefore
theinsideisdone.Thesurfaceisquickly
dehydratedbythehightemperatures—oddas
itsounds,fryinginoilisa“dry”technique—
whiletheinteriorremainslargelywaterand
neverexceeds212ºF/100ºC.Inordertoreduce
thedisparitybetweenouterandinnercooking
times,wegenerallyfryonlythincutsoffood.
It’salsocommonpracticetofrymeatsata
highinitialtemperature—tosearthem—in
ordertoaccomplishthebrowning,andthento
reducetheheatwhiletheinteriorheats
through.Yetanotherwaytoavoid
overcookingtheouterportionsofthefoodis
tocoatitinanothermaterialthatdevelops
pleasantflavorswhenfried,andactsasakind
ofinsulationtoprotecttheinnerfoodfrom
directcontactwithhighheat.Breadingsand
battersaresuchinsulators.
Howfarbackfryinggoesishardtotell.
TherulesforsacrificeinLeviticus2,which
datesfromabout600BCE,distinguishbetween
breadbakedinanovenandcooked“onthe
griddle”or“inthepan.”Pliny,inthe1st