On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1229
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Sanskritsharkara,meaninggravelorsmall
chunks of material;candyfromtheArabic
version of the Sanskrit for sugar itself,
khandakah.
AdvancesinConfectioneryInthe15thand
16thcenturies,confectionerybecamemoreof
anart,donewithgreatersophisticationand
intendedmoreandmoretodelighttheeye.
Moltensugarwasnowspunintodelicate
threadsandpulledtodevelopasatinysheen,
andconfectionersbegantodevelopwaysof
determiningthedifferentstatesofasugar
syrupandtheirappropriatenesstodifferent
preparations.Bythe17thcentury,court
confectionersweremakingwholetable
settingsandmassivedecorationsoutofsugar,
hardsugarcandieshadbecomecommon,and
cookshaddevelopedsystemsformarkingthe
syrupconcentrationssuitablefordifferent
confections—ancestorsoftoday’sthreadball-crackscale(seebox,p.651).
APleasureforAll
APleasureforAll
Sugarbecamemorewidelyavailableinthe
18thcentury,whenwholecookbookswere
devotedtoconfectionery.Englanddeveloped
anespeciallystrongsugarhabit,and
consumedlargeamountsintheteaandjams
thatfueledtheworkingclass.Thepercapita
consumptionrosefrom4pounds/2kgayear
in1700to12pounds/5kgin1780.By
contrast,theFrenchlimitedtheiruseofsugar
mainlytopreservesandtodesserts.Inthe
19thcentury,thegrowingproductionofsugar
frombeets,andthedevelopmentofmachines
thatautomatedthecooking,manipulation,and
shapingofsugarpreparations,brought
inexpensivecandiesforallandencouragedan
inventivenessthatcontinuestothisday.It’sin
the19thcenturythatfamiliarmoderncandies
andchocolateswereinvented,andthecontrol
ofcrystallizationwasrefined.Taffyortoffee,
fromtheCreoleforamixtureofsugarand
molasses,andnougat,fromthevulgarLatin
