On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1081
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areitsmoist,fine,satisfyinglysubstantial
textureanditsneutralflavor,whichmakesita
goodpartnerforabroadrangeofother
ingredients.
Twoculturesintheworldhavethoroughly
exploredthepossibilitiesofboiledgrain
paste:ItalyandChina.Theirdiscoverieswere
different,andcomplementary.InItaly,the
availabilityofhigh-glutendurumwheatledto
thedevelopmentofasturdy,protein-rich
pasta,onethatcanbedriedandstored
indefinitely,onethatreadilylentitselfto
industrialmanufacturing,andthatcanbe
formedintohundredsoffancifulshapes.The
Italiansalsorefinedtheartofmakingfresh
pastasfromsoftwheatflours,andevolvedan
entirebranchofcookingbasedonpastaasthe
principalingredient,itscombinationof
substanceandtendernessprovidingthe
foundationforflavorfulsauces—usuallyjust
enoughtocoatthesurfaces—andfillings.In
China,whichhadsoft,low-glutenwheats,
cooksconcentratedonsimplelongnoodles
andthinwrappers,preparedthemfreshandby
hand,sometimeswithgreatpanacheandjust
momentsbeforecooking,andservedthesoft,
slipperyresultsalmostexclusivelyinlarge
amountsofthinbroth.Moreremarkably,
Chinesecooksfoundwaystomakenoodles
frommanydifferentmaterials,including
othergrainsandevenpure,protein-freestarch
frombeansandrootvegetables.
TheHistoryofPasta
andNoodles
Itsastoryoftentold,andoftenrefuted,that
themedievaltravelerMarcoPolofound
noodlesinChinaandintroducedthemtoItaly.
ArecentbookbySilvanoServentiand
FranỗoiseSabbanhassettherecordstraightin
authoritativeandfascinatingdetail.Chinawas
indeedthefirstcountrytodeveloptheartof
noodlemaking,buttherewerepastasinthe
