On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1033

temperature, or steamed, and for a very long
time:16to24hours.Theloafdevelopsonlya
thin crust, and turns a dark chocolate-brown
and takes on a rich flavor thanks to the long
cooking time and high concentration of free
sugars and amino acids, which undergo
browning reactions. Because the abundant
starch-digestingenzymesareactiveforalong
time during the slow baking, pumpernickel
may end up very sweet, with a sugar content
of20%.
FoodWords:Pumpernickel,Bagel,
Pretzel,Brioche,Panettone,Pandoro
ThreeofthesebreadnamesareGermanin
origin, three from Romance languages.
Pumpernickel comes from Westphalian
dialect words for the devil (St. Nick) and
for“fart”:thisisahigh-fiberbread.Bagel
comes via Yiddish from a German root
meaning“ring,”andpretzeldirectlyfroma
German word of Latin origin meaning


“little bracelet,” so both are named for
their shape.Brioche is French, its root
apparentlybroyer, meaning to grind or
knead. It first appears in the 15th century
tonamebreadsenrichedwithbutterbutnot
yet with eggs.Panettone andpandoro are
19th-century Italian coinages meaning
“grandbread”and“goldenbread.”

Thedistinctive,complexflavorofrye
breadcomeslargelyfromthegrainitself,
whichhasmushroom,potato,andgreennotes
(fromoctenone,methional,nonenal).The
traditionalsourdoughfermentationadds
malty,vanilla,fried,buttery,sweaty,and
vinegarnotes.
SweetandRichBreads:Brioche,Panettone,
Pandoro Bread doughs that contain
substantial amounts of fat and/or sugar pose
special challenges to the baker. Both fat and
sugarslowglutendevelopmentandweakenit,
sugarbecauseitbindsupwatermoleculesand