On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1232

A treaty resuming trade between France and
England was signed in 1814, making West
Indian sugar available once again, and the
fledgling industry crashed as suddenly as it
hadbegun.Butitroseagaininthe1840sand
hasflourishedeversince.
StagesofSugarCookinginthe17th
Century
This early system for recognizing the
concentrationofboiledsugarsyrupscomes
fromLeConfiturierfranỗois.Thenasnow,
theconfectionerneededtoughfingers.
CookingsofSugar
Thefirstistotheribbon.Itisreached
whenthesyrupbeginstothicken,sothatin
takingitwiththefingerandputtingiton
thethumb,itdoesntflow,andremains
roundasapea.
Cookedtothepearl.Thesecond
cookingisreachedwhen,intakingthe


syrupwiththefingerandputtingitonthe
thumb,andopeningthefingers,itformsa
smallthread….
Cookedtothefeather.Thiscookinghas
manydifferentnames….Itisrecognized
byplacingaspatulainthesyrup,and
shakingthesyrupintheair;thesyrupflies
awayasifdryfeatherswithout
stickiness….Thiscookingistheonefor

preservesandtablets.
Cookingtotheburningsmell.This
cookingisrecognizedwhenonedipsthe
fingerincoolwater,theninthesugar,and
whenputtingthefingerbackintothecool
water,thesugarbreaksneatlylikeaglass
withoutstickiness….Thiscookingisfor
thelargecitronbiscuit,forcaramel,and
pulledsugar,orpenide,andthisisthelast
cookingofthesugar.
SugarinModernTimes