On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 339
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gavethemtheirname.
Pastezdebeuf
Takegoodyoungbeef,andremoveallfat.
Cuttheleanintopiecesandboil,and
afterwardstaketothepastrycooktobe
chopped,andfattenitwithbeefmarrow.
—LeMénagierdeParis,ca.1390
Pastillidicarne
Takeasmuchleanmeatasyouwantand
cutitupfinewithsmallknives.Mixveal
fatandspicesintothismeat.Wrapin
crustsandbakeinanoven….Thiscan
evenbemadeinawell-greaseddish
withoutacrust.
—MaestroMartino,ca.1450
PreservedMeats
Thepreservationofmeatfrombiological
spoilagehasbeenamajorchallenge
throughouthumanhistory.Theearliest
methods,whichgobackatleast4,000years,
werephysicalandchemicaltreatmentsthat
makemeatinhospitabletomicrobes.Drying
meatinthesunandwindorbythefire
removesenoughwatertohaltbacterial
growth.Asmokyfiredepositscell-killing
chemicalsonthemeatsurface.Heavysalting
—withpartlyevaporatedseawater,orrock
salt,ortheashesofsalt-concentratingplants
—alsodrawsvitalmoisturefromcells.
Moderatesaltingpermitsthegrowthofafew
hardyandharmlessmicrobesthathelp
excludeharmfulones.Outofthesecrude
methodstostaveoffspoilagehavecomesome
ofourmostcomplexandinterestingfoods,
thedry-curedhamsandfermentedsausages.
TheIndustrialRevolutionbroughtanew
approach:preservemeatnotbychangingthe
meatitself,butbycontrollingits
environment.Canningenclosescookedmeat
