On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1084
Bạn đang xem bản rút gọn của tài liệu. Xem và tải ngay bản đầy đủ của tài liệu tại đây (114.4 KB, 2 trang )
Andwithoutabreakinthehasteandhurry
Thestarsseparateandthehailstonesfall.
Inthebasket,nospatteredstuffing.
Onthebingnotatraceofextradough.
Perfectlylinedup,ofgreatbeauty,
Withoutbreaking,thedoughisfineand
thin.
Itswellssothatonecanguessatthe
stuffingbelow,
Softassilkflossinthespringtime,
Whiteasautumnsilk,cookedjustintime.
—ShuXi,“OdetoBing,”ca.300,transl.
AntonyShugaar
Thepostmedievalevolutionofpastatook
placelargelyinItaly.Pastamakersformed
guildsandmadefreshtypesfromsoftwheat
flourthroughoutItaly,driedtypesfrom
durumsemolinainthesouthandinSicily.
Italiancooksdevelopedthedistinctive
preparationstylecalledpastasciuttaor“dry
pasta,”pastaservedasthemaincomponentof
thedish,moistenedwithsaucebutnot
drowninginitordispersedinasouporstew.
Withitsidealclimatefordryingrawnoodles,
atrickyprocessthattookonetofourweeks,
Naplesbecamethecenterofdurumpasta
manufacturing.
Thankstothemechanizationofdough
kneadingandextrusion,bythe18thcentury
durumpastahadbecomestreetfoodin
Naples,andcommoninmuchofItaly.
Perhapsbecausestreetvendorsminimized
cookingandopen-airconsumersenjoyed
chewingonsomethingsubstantial,itwasin
Naplesthatpeoplebegantopreferpasta
cookedforminutesratherthanhours,sothat
itretainssomefirmness.Thispracticespread
totherestofthecountryinthelate19th
century,andthetermaldente,orcooked“to
thetooth,”appearedafterWorldWarI.
Subsequentdecadesbroughteffective
artificialdryingandthemachineryand
understandingnecessarytoturnpastamaking
fromabatch-by-batchprocesstoacontinuous
