On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1034

interrupts the gluten-water network, fat
because it bonds to fat-loving portions of the
glutenchainsandpreventsthemfrombonding
to each other. Rich doughs are therefore
relatively soft and fragile. Bakers often build
them by holding back the fat and sugar and
kneading these in only after developing the
gluten network, and then bake the doughs in
containers that support their weight and
prevent them from sagging and flattening.
Large amounts of sugar slow the growth of
yeast by dehydrating the cells, so sweet
doughs are often made with more yeast than
ordinary breads, and they may take longer to
rise.Sugaralsomakessweetdoughsproneto
beginbrowningearlyinthebaking,sothey’re
usually baked at a relatively low oven
temperature to prevent the surface from
browningbeforetheinteriorhasset.
Frenchbriochedoughisespeciallyrichin
butterandeggs.It’softenretarded(chilled,p.
539)for6–18hourstostiffenit,thenrolled


outandbrieflyrested.Thismakesthedough
easiertohandleandformbeforeitsfinalrise.
Italianpanettoneandpandoroareremarkable
holidaybreadsthatareenrichedwithlarge
quantitiesofsugar,eggyolks,andbutter,but
thatkeepwellbecausetheyarebuiltfroma
sourdoughthatstartswithanaturally

leavenedsponge.
Gluten-Free Breads People whose immune
systems are intolerant of gluten must avoid
wheat and its close relatives, and therefore
can’teatordinarybread,whereglutenplaysa
major role in texture.A reasonable facsimile
of raised bread can be made with gluten-free
flours or starches — rice flour, for example
— that are supplemented with xanthan gum
and emulsifiers. The gum, which is secreted
by a bacterium and purified from industrialscale fermenters, provides a modest glutenlike elasticity, while the emulsifiers stabilize
the gas bubbles and slow the diffusion of