On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1181
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minimizesthemixingofenzymesandtargets,
socellsstayrelativelyintact,andrelatively
littlegreenaromadevelops.
Thenthere’sthetraditionalItalian
preparationcalledestratto,whichbeginswith
freshtomatoescookeddowntosomeextent,
andthenmixesthemwithsomeoliveoiland
spreadsthepasteonboardstodrydown
furtherinthesun.Thisisoftendescribedasa
relatively“gentle”processcomparedto
cooking,anditprobablydoessparesome
damagetothepectinmolecules.Butinfactit
subjectsanumberofsensitivemolecules—
includingtheantioxidanttomatopigment
lycopeneandunsaturatedfattyacidsinthe
oliveoil—topowerfulanddamaging
ultravioletlight,whichgivesestrattoa
distinctivelystrong,cookedflavor.
NutsandSpicesasThickeners
Amongseedsandotherdryplantmaterials,
onlyoilynutscanbemadeintoasaucebase
ontheirown.Whensuchnutsaregroundinto
“butters,”theoilprovidesthefluidcontinuous
phasethatlubricatestheparticlesofcellwalls
andproteins.Butmostofthetime,nutsare
mixedwithotheringredients,including
liquids,sotheybecomepartofacomplex
suspensionandhelpthickenbothwiththeir
dryparticlesandwiththeiroil,which
becomesemulsifiedintotinydroplets.
Almondshavelongservedthispurposeinthe
MiddleEastandMediterraneaninsuchsauces
asromesco(withredpeppers,tomatoes,and
oliveoil)andpicada(garlic,parsley,oil),and
thecoconutintropicalAsia,whereit’s
poundedalongwithspicesandherbsto
becomepartofthesauceforcookedmeats,
fish,andvegetables.
Nutsandotherfinelygroundseedsand
spiceshelpthickenliquidsaucesthanksto
theirverydryness,whichallowstheir
particlestoabsorbwaterfromthesauceand
