On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1085

one.Drieddurumpastaisnowmadeonan
industrialscaleinmanycountries.Inaddition,
modernheattreatmentsandvacuum-packing
havealsomadeitpossibletokeepfreshpasta
forseveralweeksintherefrigerator.
Recentdecadeshavebroughtarevivalin
Italyofsmall-scalemanufacturingusing
selectedwheatvarieties,old-fashioned
extrusiondiesthatproducearough,sauceholdingsurface,andlonger-time,lowtemperaturedryingthatissaidtoproducea
finerflavor.
MakingPastaandNoodleDoughs

BasicIngredientsandMethodsTheaimin
makingpastaandnoodledoughisto
transformdryflourparticlesintoacohesive
massthatismalleableenoughtobeshaped
intothinstrips,butstrongenoughtostay
intactwhenboiled.Withwheatflours,the
cohesivenessisprovidedbythegluten


proteins.Durumwheatshavetheadvantageof
ahighglutencontent,andaglutenthatisless
elasticthanbread-wheatglutenandsoeasier
torollout.Waternormallymakesuparound
30%ofthedoughweight,comparedto40%or
moreforbreaddoughs.
Pasta,Cheese,andWineWithoutEnd
By the time of the great storyteller
Giovanni Boccaccio, who died in 1375,
pasta was familiar enough in Italy to be

partofaglutton’sparadise:
in a country called Bengodi…there was a
mountain made entirely of grated
Parmesan cheese, on which lived people
who did nothing but make macaroni and
ravioliandcookthemincaponbroth.And
then they threw them down, and the more
of them you took, the more you had.And
nearby ran a rivulet of white wine whose
betterwasneverdrunk,andwithoutadrop