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preference if not in quantity. (The same
transformationcanbetracedintheFrench
wordviande.) One sign of this preference
isCharlesCarter’s1732CompleatCityand
Country Cook, which devotes 50 pages to
meat dishes, 25 to poultry, and 40 to fish,
butonly25tovegetablesandahandfulto
breadsandpastries.
AbundantMeatinNorthAmericaFromthe
beginning,Americanshaveenjoyedan
abundanceofmeatmadepossiblebythesize
andrichnessofthecontinent.Inthe19th
century,asthecountrybecameurbanizedand
morepeoplelivedawayfromthefarm,meats
werebarreledinsalttopreservethemin
transitandintheshops;saltporkwasasmuch
astaplefoodasbread(hencesuchphrasesas
“scrapingthebottomofthebarrel”and“porkbarrelpolitics”).Inthe1870sawider
distributionoffreshmeat,especiallybeef,
wasmadepossiblebyseveraladvances,
includingthegrowthofthecattleindustryin
theWest,theintroductionofcattlecarsonthe
railroads,andthedevelopmentofthe
refrigeratedrailroadcarbyGustavusSwift
andPhilipArmour.
Today,withonefifteenthoftheworld’s
population,theUnitedStateseatsonethirdof
theworld’smeat.Meatconsumptiononthis
scaleispossibleonlyinwealthysocietieslike