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On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 393

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Whiteperch Moroneamericana
Hybridstriped MoronesaxtalisxMorone
bass
chrysops
Icefish

The“codicefish”familyisagroupoflarge,
sedentaryplankton-eatersthatliveinthecold
deepwatersoffAntarctica.Thebestknownof
themisthefatty“Chileanseabass,”an
inaccuratebutmorepalatablecommercial
nameforthePatagoniantoothfish
(Dissostichuseleginoides),whichcanreach
150lb/70kg.Itsfatislocatedinalayerunder
theskin,inthechamberedbones,and
dispersedamongthemusclefibers:toothfish
fleshcanbenearly15%fat.Itwasn’tuntilthe
mid-1980sthatcookscametoknowand
appreciatethislusciouslyrich,large-flaked
fish,whichisunusuallytolerantof
overcooking.Liketheorangeroughyand
otherdeepwatercreatures,thetoothfishis


slowtoreproduce,andtherearealreadysigns
thatitsnumbershavebeendangerously
depletedbyoverfishing.
TunasandMackerel

Whowouldknowfromlookingatacheapcan
oftunathatitwasmadefromoneofthemost


remarkablefishonearth?Thetunasarelarge
predatorsoftheopenocean,reaching1,500
lb/680kgandswimmingconstantlyatspeeds
upto40miles/70kmperhour.Eventheir
fast-twitchmusclefibers,whicharenormally
whiteandbland,contributetothenonstop
cruising,andhaveahighcapacityforusing
oxygen,ahighcontentofoxygen-storing
myoglobinpigment,andactiveenzymesfor
generatingenergyfrombothfatandprotein.
Thisiswhytunafleshcanlookasdarkredas
beef,andhasasimilarlyrich,savoryflavor.
Themeatyaromaofcookedandcannedtuna
comesinpartfromareactionbetweenthe



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