On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1087

Tomakeeggpasta,theingredientsare
mixedinproportionsthatgiveastiffdough;
thedoughiskneadeduntilsmooth,allowedto
restandrelax,rolledout,andthencutintothe
desiredshapes.Thefreshpastaisperishable,
andifmadewitheggscarriesaslight
possibilityofsalmonellacontamination;it
shouldbecookedimmediatelyorwrappedand
refrigerated.Prolongeddryingatkitchen
temperaturemayallowmicrobestomultiply
tohazardouslevels.Freshpastacooks
quickly,inafewsecondsorminutes
dependingonthickness.
Dried Durum Pasta The standard Italian
pastas, and Italian-style pastas from around
the world, are made from durum wheat, with
its distinctive flavor, attractive yellow color,
and abundant gluten proteins. Durum pastas
are seldom made with eggs. Their gluten
proteinsgivethedriednoodlesahard,glassy
interior;duringcookingtheylimitthelossof


dissolved proteins and gelated starch, and
makeafirmnoodle.
Making Durum Pasta Dough and Shapes
Durumpastaismadefromsemolina,whichis
milled durum endosperm with a
characteristically coarse particle size, 0.15–
0.5 mm across, thanks to the hard nature of
durum endosperm (finer grinding causes

excessive damage to starch granules). Flat
pasta shapes are punched from out of a sheet
of dough. Long noodles and short thick ones
are formed by extruding the dough through
the holes of a die at high pressure. The
movement, pressure, and heat of extrusion
changethestructureofthedoughbyshearing
the protein network apart, mixing it more
intimatelywithstarchgranulesthathavebeen
partly gelated by the heat and pressure, and
allowingbrokenproteinbondstore-formand
stabilize the new network. Noodles extruded
through modern low-friction Teflon dies end