On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 888

first wheat to be cultivated, around 10,000
years ago. It grows best in cool conditions,
tendstoberichinyellowcarotenoidpigments
and is high in protein. However, where the
proportions of elastic glutenin and flowing
gliadin (p. 521) are 1 to 1 in bread wheat, in
einkorn they’re 1 to 2. The result is a sticky,
fluidglutenthat’sunsuitedtobreadmaking.
Emmer Wheat or Farro Emmer wheat,T.
turgidum dicoccum, was probably the second
wheat to be cultivated. It grew in warmer
climates than einkorn, and became the most
importantcultivatedformfromtheNearEast
through northern Africa and Europe until
early Roman times, when it was superseded
by durum and bread wheats. But pockets of
emmer cultivation survived in parts of
Europe, and emmer is now widely available
under its Italian name,farro. In Tuscany
wholefarrograinsgowithbeansintoawinter
soup;thepre-soakedgrainsarealsomadeinto


arisotto-likedishcalledfarrotto.
TheWheatFamily
Relationships in the wheat family are
complicated and still the subject of
scholarly argument. Here is one plausible
version of the family tree. Those wheats
whose grains are enclosed in adhering
paperyhusksarenotedas“hulled”;allthe

rest are hullless and are therefore much
easier to prepare for cooking or milling.
Wheats in common use today are
highlightedinboldtype.
Wildeinkorn
(diploid;hulled;
Triticummonococcum
boeticum)

Cultivatedeinkorn
(diploid;hulled;T.
monococcum
monococcum)

Awildwheat,Triticumurartu+a
goatgrass,Aegilopsspeltoides