On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1041
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circumferencewheretheoilsurfacecooksthe
doughlessthoroughly.Doughnutsarefriedat
amoderatetemperature,originallyinlardand
nowusuallyinahydrogenatedvegetable
shortening,whichsolidifieswhenthe
doughnutcoolstoprovideadryratherthan
oilysurface.
ThinBatterFoods:
CrÊpes,Popovers,Griddle
Cakes,CreamPuffPastry
BatterFoods
Thedifferencebetweendoughsandbattersis
reflectedintheirnames.Doughcomesfroma
rootmeaning“toform,”whilebattercomes
fromarootmeaning“tobeat.”Doughsare
firmenoughtodevelopandsculptbyhand.
Battersaretoofluidandelusivetohold,sowe
containtheminabowl,mixthembybattering
themrepeatedlyfromwithin—bystirring—
andcooktheminacontainertogivethem
formandsolidity.
Battersarefluidbecausetheyincludetwo
tofourtimesmorewaterthandoughs.The
waterdispersestheglutenproteinssowidely
thattheyformonlyaveryloose,fluid
network.Whenwecookabatter,thestarch
granulesabsorbmuchofthewater,swell,
gelate,leakamylose,sticktoeachother,and
thusturnthefluidintoasolidbuttender,
moiststructure.Theglutenproteinsplaya
secondarystructuralrole,providingan
underlyingcohesivenessthatpreventsthe
foodfrombeingcrumbly.Butiftheglutenis
overdeveloped,itmakesthefoodelasticand
chewy.Battersoftencontaineggs,andtheegg
proteinsalsocontributeanonelasticsolidity
whentheycoagulateinthecookingheat.Fluid
batterscan’tretainmuchofthegasslowly
evolvedbyyeast,andareusuallyleavened
eitherchemically,orelsemechanically,by
beatingairintothebatteroritscomponents.
