On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1042
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Mostbatterproductsaremeanttobe
delicateandtender.Tendernesscanbe
encouragedinseveraldifferentways.
Theconcentrationofglutenproteinsin
thebatterisreducedbytheuseofpastry
flour,orlow-orno-glutenflours
(buckwheat,rice,oat),orall-purpose
flourmixedwithcornstarchorotherpure
starches.
Glutendevelopmentisminimizedby
minimalstirringoftheingredients.
Replacingmilkorwaterwithsoured
dairyproducts,notablybuttermilkand
yogurt,helpsproduceanespecially
tendertexture.Thisismainlyaneffectof
theirthickconsistency,whichmeansthat
ittakeslessflourtomakethebatter
properlythick.Aspoonfulofthefinished
batterthereforecontainslessflour,less
starchandgluten,andcookstoamore
delicatestructure.
Leaveningthebatterwithgasbubblesnot
onlydividesitupintoinnumerablethin
sheetssurroundingthegasbubbles,it
makesthebattermoreviscous(asin
saucefoams,p.595),whichagainmeans
thatlessflourisneededtothickenit.
It’susefultodividebatterfoodsintotwo
groups.Thinbattersareboththinin
consistencyandcookedintheformofsmall,
thin,free-standingcakes.Quickbreadsand
cakesaremadefromthickerbatters,andare
cookedinpansinlarger,deepermasses.
Crêpes
Crêpesandtheirrelatives(EasternEuropean
blintzesandpalaschinki),thinunleavened
pancakesthatarecookedonashallowpanand
foldedoverafillingofsomekind,havebeen
madeforathousandyearsfromasimple
batterofflour,milkand/orwater,andeggs.
Theirdelicacycomesfromtheirthinness.The
