the rough guide to jordan
Bạn đang xem bản rút gọn của tài liệu. Xem và tải ngay bản đầy đủ của tài liệu tại đây (8.69 MB, 444 trang )
ROUGHGUIDES
THE ROUGH GUIDE to
Jordan
I S B N 978-1-84836-066-2
9 781848 360662
52499
About this book
Rough Guides are designed to be good to read and easy to use. The book is
divided into the following sections and you should be able to find whatever you
need in one of them.
The introductory colour section is designed to give you a feel for Jordan,
suggesting when to go and what not to miss, and includes a full list of contents.
Then comes basics, for pre-departure information and other practicalities.
The guide chapters cover Jordan in depth, each starting with a highlights
panel, introduction and a map to help you plan your route.
Contexts fills you in on history, cultural background and books, while individual
colour sections introduce the Jordanian people and the
wonders of Petra. Language gives you an extensive menu
reader and enough Arabic to get by.
The book concludes with all the small print, including details
of how to send in updates and corrections, and a
comprehensive index.
This fourth edition published
September 2009.
US$24.99 CAN$29.99
The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy and
currency of all the information in The Rough Guide to Jordan, however, they
can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by
any traveller as a result of information or advice contained in the guide.
9
Z
V
Y
H
Z
V
GjlVnh]^Y
6fVWV
6ogVf
>gW^Y
BVYVWV
BVÉVc
@VgV`
6BB6C
A:76CDC
>HG6:A
HNG>6
L:HI
76C@
>HG6:A
>G6F
H6J9>
6G67>6
?6LA6C
<DA6C=:><=IH
B
:
9
>
I
:
G
G
6
C
:
6
C
H:6
@EH:7D
N
/
6bbVc
I]Z9ZVYHZVVcYVgdjcY
?ZgVh]VcYi]Zcdgi]
I]ZZVhiZgcYZhZgi
I]Z@^c\Éh=^\]lVn
EZigV
I]Zhdji]ZgcYZhZgi
VcY6fVWV
Jordan
written and researched by
Matthew Teller
The Rough Guide to
www.roughguides.com
Contents
Colour section 1
Introduction 6
Where to go 10
When to go 13
Things not to miss 16
Basics 25
Getting there 27
Travel from neighbouring
countries 34
Getting around 38
Accommodation 41
Food and drink 44
The media 49
Adventure tours and trekking 50
Culture and etiquette 54
Shopping for crafts 61
Travelling with children 63
Travel essentials 64
Guide 73
1 Amman 75
2 The Dead Sea and
ar
ound 127
3 Jerash and the north 151
4 The eastern desert 187
5 The King’s Highway 217
6 Petra 259
7 The southern desert and
Aqaba
313
Contexts 357
History 359
Flora and fauna 386
Islam 392
The bedouin today 397
Books 400
Language 405
Arabic 407
Useful words and phrases 408
Food and drink glossary 412
Glossary 414
Travel store 417
Small print & Index 421
̇̇ Wadi Rum on horseback ̇ Columns, Temple of Artemis, Jerash
|
CONTENTS
|
Jordan’s people
colour section following
p.184
Petra unpackaged
colour section following
p.312
4
|
INTRODUCTION
|
WHERE TO GO
|
WHEN TO GO
4IFJLI
)VTTFJO
#SJEHF
1FMMB
6NNBM+JNBM
)BNNBNBU
.BJO
2VFFO"MJB
"JSQPSU
,JOH
)VTTFJO
#SJEHF
4IBVNBSJ
8JMEMJGF
3FTFSWF
2VTBZS
"NSB
#BQUJTN
4JUF
8BEJ.VKJC
/BUVSF3FTFSWF
#VSRV
8BEJ.VKJC
%
F
B
E
4
F
B
.
&
%
*
5
&
3
3
"
/
&
"
/
4
&
"
4&"0'
("-*-&&
N
N
N
.U/FCP
N
3BNUIB
%FSBB
/BCMVT
/B[BSFUI
5JCFSJBT
6NN2BJT
#PTSB
"KMPVO
+BCFS
)FCSPO
+FSJDIP
4BMU
'VIFJT
;BSRB
"[SBR
4BGBXJ
3VXBZTIJE
5VSBZG
%"."4$64
*SCJE
)BJGB
.BGSBR
+FSBTI
.BEBCB
+&364"-&.
" "/
+
&
#
&
-
%
3
6
;
&
+
0
3
%
"
/
7
"
-
-
&
:
-&#"/0/
*43"&-
4:3*"
8&45
#"/,
*3"2
+"8-"/
(0-"/)&*()54
#FJSVU
)PNT
#BHIEBE
/
5
|
INTRODUCTION
|
WHERE TO GO
|
WHEN TO GO
2BTS5VCB
%BOB/BUVSF
3FTFSWF
1FUSB
8BEJ"SBCB
$SPTTJOH
8BEJ)BTB
(6-'0'
"2"#"
N
N
N
+FCFM6NN
BE%BBNJ
N
N
N
N
,
*
/
(
4
8
"
%
*
3
6
.
%
&
4
&
3
5
)
*
(
)
8
"
:
)
*
(
)
8
"
:
#BZJS
2BUSBOFI
4Bm
%BOB
5BmMFI
+BGS
3VN
&JMBU
.VEBXXBSB
4IPCBL
"RBCB
+VSGBE%BSBXJTI
.BBO
,BSBL
8
"
%
*
"
3
"
#
"
*43"&-
4"6%*"3"#*"
)&+";3"*-8":%*464&%
#BISBJO
4BLBLBI
+FEEBI
5BCVL
/VXFJCB
.FUSFT
CFMPXTFBMFWFM
LN
6
|
INTRODUCTION
|
WHERE TO GO
|
WHEN TO GO
Introduction to
Jordan
Western travellers have been exploring the Middle East for
well over a century, but Jordan is a relative newcomer to
tourism, welcoming only a fraction of the numbers who visit
neighbouring Egypt and Israel. The country’s popular image
abroad encompasses not much more than camels, deserts
and bedouin, and there’s little awareness of Jordan’s
mountains and beaches, its castles and ancient churches,
the urbanity of its people and richness of its culture.
Jordan is largely desert, but this one bland word covers
a multitude of scenes, from the dramatic red sands and
towering clis of the far south to the vast stony plains
of volcanic basalt in the east. The northern hills, rich
with olive trees, teeter over the rift of the Jordan
Valley, which in turn runs down to the Dead Sea,
lowest point on earth. The centre of the country is
carpeted with tranquil elds of wheat, cut through
by expansive canyons and bordered by arid, craggy mountains. At the
southernmost tip of the country, beaches fringe the warm waters of the
Red Sea, which harbours some of the most spectacular coral reefs in
the world.
Jordan is part of the land bridge linking Europe, Africa and Asia, and
has seen countless armies come and go. Greeks, Romans, Muslims,
Christian Crusaders and more have left evidence of their conquests, and
there are literally thousands of ruins and archeological sites from all
periods in every corner of the country. In addition, Israel and Palestine,
7
|
INTRODUCTION
|
WHERE TO GO
|
WHEN TO GO
Jordan’s neighbours to the west, have
no monopoly on biblical history: it
was in Jordan that Lot sought refuge
from the re and brimstone of the
Lord; Moses, Aaron and John the
Baptist all died in Jordan; and Jesus
was almost certainly baptized here.
Even the Prophet Muhammad passed
through.
And yet the country is far from
being stuck in the past. Amman is
a thoroughly modern capital, and
Jordan’s respectable rate of economic
growth means that grinding poverty
is the rare exception rather than the
rule. Kids may sell you gum or oer to
shine your shoes, but you’ll see more
desperate begging in the streets of any
European or North American city than
anywhere in Jordan. Government is
Fact file
s The Hashemite Kingdom
of Jordan (in Arabic,
al-Mamlakeh al-Urduniyyeh
al-Hashmiyyeh, or al-Urdun)
covers an area of around
92,000 square kilometres – a
little more than Portugal and
a little less than Indiana.
About 85 percent is desert.
The highest and lowest
points are Jebel Umm
ad-Daami (1834m) and the
Dead Sea shore (408m below
sea level).
sªWell over 90 percent of
the population of around
6.2 million ar
e Muslim
Arabs, with small minori-
ties of Muslim Circassians
and Chechens, as well as
Christian Arabs. Almost 38
percent of the population is
below the age of 15.
sªJordan is a constitutional
monar
chy, with universal
suffrage over the age of
20. The king appoints the
Prime Minister and together
they appoint the cabinet.
In the bicameral National
Assembly, the forty-member
Senate is appointed by the
king and the eighty-member
House of Representatives
voted in by proportional
representation. The single
biggest sector in the
economy – traditionally
dependent on phosphates
and potash production –
is now tourism, which
generates thirteen per
cent
of GDP.
sªThe average annual wage
in Jordan is around JD5000
(US$7100).
̆ Jerash
8
|
INTRODUCTION
|
WHERE TO GO
|
WHEN TO GO
stable, with leanings towards democracy under a constitutional monarchy,
and manages to be simultaneously pro-Western, pro-Arab, founded on
a bedrock of Muslim authority and dedicated to ongoing peace with
Israel. Wom e n are better integrated into positions of power in govern-
ment and business than almost anywhere else in the Middle East, military
conscription has been abolished, and Jordanians are exceptionally highly
educated: just over 2.5 percent of the total population is enrolled at
university, a proportion comparable to the UK. Traditions of hospitality
are ingrained, and taking up some of the many invitations you’ll get to
tea or a meal will expose you to an outlook among local people that is
often as cosmopolitan and world-aware as anything at home. Though
surrounded by instability, Jordan is the safest country in the Middle East
by quite a long way, and
domestic extremism is
virtually non-existent.
Most people take great
pride in their ancestry,
whether they’re present
or former desert-dwellers
(bedouin) or from a
settled farming tradition
(fellahin). Across the desert
areas, people still live and
work on their tribal lands,
̄ Nut seller, Madaba
̆ Family fun at the Dead Sea
9
|
INTRODUCTION
|
WHERE TO GO
|
WHEN TO GO
Jordan’s flag
Jordan’s flag is a source of national
pride. It is adapted from the
revolutionary banner of the Great
Arab Revolt of 1916–17, when Arab
armies led by the Hashemites – a
noble dynasty, now led by King
Abdullah II of Jordan, which traces
its origins back to the Prophet
Muhammad – overthrew the rule of
the Ottoman Empire in the Middle
East.
The flag has three equal horizontal
bands. At the top is black,
representing the Abbasid Caliphate
that ruled from Baghdad in the
eighth and ninth centuries; in the
middle is white, representing the
Umayyad Caliphate that ruled
from Damascus in the seventh
and eighth centuries; and at the
bottom is green, representing the Fatimid Caliphate that ruled from Cairo
in the tenth and eleventh centuries. On the hoist side is a red triangle
representing the Great Arab Revolt of 1916–17. Within the triangle is
a seven-pointed white star which symbolizes the seven verses of the
opening sura (verse) of the Quran; the points represent faith in one God,
humanity, national spirit, humility, social justice, virtue and hope.
whether together in villages or apart in individual family units; many
town-dwellers, including substantial numbers of Ammanis, claim tribal
identity. Belonging to a tribe (an honour conferred by birth) means
respecting the authority of a communal leader, or sheikh, and living in a
culture of shared history, values and principles that often crosses national
boundaries. Notions of honour and mutual defence are strong. Tribes also
wield a great deal of institutional power: most members of Jordan’s lower
house of parliament are elected for their tribal, rather than political, ali-
ation. The king, as sheikh of sheikhs,
commands heartfelt loyalty among
many people and deep respect among
most of the rest.
National identity is a thorny issue
in Jordan, which has taken in huge numbers of Palestinian refugees since
the foundation of the State of Israel in 1948. Many people from tribes
resident east of the River Jordan before 1948 resent this overbalancing of
the country’s demography, and the fact that incoming Palestinians, having
Your most abiding memories
are likely to be of Jordan’s
natural environment
10
developed an urbanized, entrepreneurial culture, dominate private-sector
business. For their part, Jordanians of Palestinian origin – estimated to
make up as much as sixty percent of the population – often resent the “East
Bank” Jordanians’ grip on power in government and the public sector. All
are Jordanian citizens, but citizenship tends to mean less to many of Pales-
tinian origin than their national identity, and less to many East Bankers than
their tribal aliation. Large numbers of long-stay guest workers from Egypt
muddy the issue still further. “Where are you from?” – a simple enough
question in most countries – is in Jordan the cue for a life story.
Where to go
J
ordan’s prime attraction is Petra, an unforgettably dramatic
2000-year-old city carved from sandstone clis in the south of the
country. Its extraordinary architecture and powerful atmosphere
imprint themselves indelibly on most visitors’ imaginations.
There is a wealth of other historical sites, outstanding among them
the well-preserved Roman city of Jerash, but also including Umm Qais,
set on a dramatic promontory overlooking the Sea of Galilee, and Pella,
where Jerusalem’s Christians ed Roman persecution in the rst century
AD. Madaba, which became an important Christian town and regional
|
INTRODUCTION
|
WHERE TO GO
|
WHEN TO GO
̆ Highway in the eastern desert
11
centre for mosaic art during the Byzantine period, houses the oldest known
map of the Middle East, in the form of a large mosaic laid on the oor of
a church. After the Muslim conquest, the Umayyad dynasty built a series
of retreats in the Jordanian desert, now dubbed the “Desert Castles”,
including the bath-house of Qusayr Amra, adorned with naturalistic
and erotic frescoes, and Qasr Harraneh, perhaps the most atmospheric
ancient building in the country. Centuries later, the Crusaders established a
heavy presence in southern Jordan, most impressively with the huge castles
at Karak and Shobak. The Arab resistance to the Crusader invasion left
behind a no less impressive castle at Ajloun in the north.
Jordan also counts as part of the “Holy Land” for its religious sites,
most importantly the Baptism Site of Jesus on the banks of the
River Jordan, and Mount Nebo, from where Moses looked over the
Promised Land. John the Baptist met his death at Herod’s hilltop palace
at Mukawir after Salome danced her seductive dance. Nearby are
The search for water
Jordan is among the ten
most water-poor countries
in the world. Annual
consumption per capita
(calculated as renewable
water resources withdrawn)
is about 170 cubic metres,
compared with 630 as the
world average, 800 across
the Middle East/North Africa
region – and 1,650 in North
America. Almost a third of
the water used in Jordan
comes from non-sustainable
or non-renewable sources.
Three decades of pumping
from the once-abundant
Azraq oasis (see p.209) has brought it to the point of collapse. A
major tributary of the River Jordan, the Yarmouk, sports a large dam
shared by Jordan and Syria, and all the major valleys leading down to
the Dead Sea are now dammed in an effort to stop water draining into
the salty lake (which has contributed to its rapid shrinking; see p.131).
Every winter the local newspapers publish reports tabulating levels of
water storage in the country’s reservoirs, while Jordanians anxiously
wait for rain. Water rationing is in place in Amman over the summer.
it is hoped that schemes to pipe water from desert aquifers and to
construct shared desalination plants on the Red Sea will alleviate the
problem. Time will tell.
|
INTRODUCTION
|
WHERE TO GO
|
WHEN TO GO
12
Bab adh-Dhraa, one of the
leading contenders for the
site of biblical Sodom, and
Lot’s Cave, where Abraham’s
nephew sought refuge from
the destruction of Sodom and
Gomorrah. Most of these, and
other sites such as the tomb
of Aaron at Petra, are holy to
Muslims, Jews and Christians
alike, while there are also
plenty of specically Muslim
sites, including a holy tree in
the desert at Biqya’wiyya,
said to have sheltered the
Prophet Muhammad himself,
and literally dozens of shrines
and tombs in every corner of
the country.
Your most abiding memories
of a visit are likely to be of
Jordan’s varied and beautiful natural environment. With its sheer clis
and red sands, austere Wadi Rum – where David Lean lmed Lawrence
of Arabia – presents the classic desert picture of Jordan, and is the starting
point for camel treks of anything from an hour to a week. Less well-known
are the gentle northern hills around the Ajloun forests, hosting walks
through ower-strewn meadows and cool, shady woodland. In the south,
the tranquil Dana Nature Reserve encompasses a swathe of territory
from verdant highland orchards down to the sandy desert oor, and oers
Transliterating Arabic
Many sounds in Arabic have no equivalent in English, and any attempt
to render them in English script is bound to be imprecise. Place names
are the biggest sources of confusion, varying from map to map and
often from sign to sign – you’ll see roadsigns to Wadi Seer, Wadi El
Sseir, Wadi Alsear and Wadi as-Sir, all referring to the same place. In
this book we’ve tried to stick to a phonetically helpful, common-sense
system, while also staying close to existing English renderings. The
definite article “al” and its variations have been removed from all place
names other than compound ones: Al-Aqaba, Ar-Ramtha and As-Salt
have all been shortened (Aqaba, Ramtha, Salt), but Umm al-Jimal and
Shuneh al-Janubiyyeh stay as they are. For more on the intricacies of
Arabic, see p.407.
|
INTRODUCTION
|
WHERE TO GO
|
WHEN TO GO
̄ Black iris, Jordan's national flower
13
extensive opportunities for bird- and wildlife-spotting. The protected
Wadi Mujib is a giant canyon, 4km wide at the top, that narrows to a high,
rocky gorge carrying a fast-owing river down to the salty Dead Sea, an
inland lake too buoyant for swimming but perfect for oating, your body
supported by the density of the salty water. Last but not least, Jordan has
some of the world’s best diving and snorkelling in the coral-fringed Red
Sea o Aqaba.
When to go
D
espite the small size of the country, you’ll nd wide variations in
climate whenever you arrive, often because of the topography:
Amman, Petra and Wadi Rum all lie well over 800m above sea
level, Dana and Ajloun are even higher (up to 1500m), whereas
the Dead Sea lies 400m below sea level. The same January day could have
you throwing snowballs in Ajloun or topping up your tan on the Red Sea
beaches at Aqaba.
The best time to visit is spring (March–May), when temperatures are
toasty but not scorching, wildowers are out everywhere (even the desert is
carpeted), and the hills and valleys running down the centre of the country
|
INTRODUCTION
|
WHERE TO GO
|
WHEN TO GO
̆ Red Sea snorkelling at sunset, Aqaba
14
are lush and gorgeously colourful. The worst of the rain is over by March,
though it doesn’t entirely peter out in Amman and the hills until late April.
Humidity is pleasant everywhere, and low, clear sunlight draws a spectacular
kaleidoscope of colour and texture from the desert rocks. There’s only one
drawback – a desert wind, loaded with dust and grit, which blows regularly
each spring or early summer
out of the Arabian interior. It’s
known across the Middle East as
the khamseen (“fty”), after the
fty days it traditionally persists (although in Jordan it rarely lasts longer
than a few days), and can darken the sky and raise the temperature by 10°C,
coating everyone and everything in a layer of sand.
In summer (roughly June–Sept), Amman can sizzle – up to 40°C in
the city centre – and you’ll nd little respite in the rest of the country,
although the hills around Ajloun catch some cooler breezes. Temperatures
at the Dead Sea and Aqaba have been known to top 50°C, with Aqaba in
particular suering from an intolerable hot wind that makes you feel like
you’re basting in a fan-assisted oven. High, hazy light attens the brown
landscape and bleaches any beauty out of the desert, and you’ll nd it’s too
uncomfortably hot countrywide to do any walking or sightseeing between
noon and 4pm.
Typical autumn weather (mid-Sept to mid-Nov) mostly passes Jordan
by, with only a few weeks marking the shift out of high summer – if you
̄ Desert patrol, Petra
|
INTRODUCTION
|
WHERE TO GO
|
WHEN TO GO
Jordan is the safest country in the
Middle East by a long way
15
catch it, this can be a lovely time to visit. The rst rains fall in early or
mid-October, making the parched countryside bloom again and the torrid
temperatures drop to more manageable levels.
In winter (roughly Dec–Feb), Amman can be desperately chilly, with
biting winds sweeping through the valleys, rain showers and even snowfall,
although the sun is still never far away. With short days and freezing nights,
Petra winters can be taxing; exceptional lows of -8°C have been recorded.
Rum is more temperate, but Aqaba is the only retreat, with sunshine and
warmth even in the depths of January (average Red Sea and Dead Sea water
temperatures vary little either side of a balmy 24°C all year).
Elevation, average minimum and maximum temperatures and
average rainfall.
Jan Apr July Oct
Amman (800m)
Average temperatures (°C) 3–12 9–23 18–32 14–27
A
verage rainfall (mm) 64 15 0 7
Aqaba (sea level)
Average temperatures (°C) 9–21 17–31 25–39 20–33
A
verage rainfall (mm) 5401
Dead Sea (400m below sea level)
Average temperatures (°C) 11–21 19–31 27–40 22–33
A
verage rainfall (mm) 13 7 0 1
Irbid (600m)
Average temperatures (°C) 5–13 10–22 19–31 15–27
A
verage rainfall (mm) 111 51 0 14
Petra (1100m)
Average temperatures (°C) 4–12 11–22 18–36 14–24
A
verage rainfall (mm) 43 14 0 2
Rum (950m)
Average temperatures (°C) 4–15 12–25 19–36 13–29
A
verage rainfall (mm) 19 7 0 2
|
INTRODUCTION
|
WHERE TO GO
|
WHEN TO GO
16
|
ACTIVITIES
|
CONSUME
|
EVENTS
|
NATURE
|
SIGHTS
|
22
things not to miss
It’s not possible to see everything that Jordan has to oer in one
trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows is a selective
and subjective taste of the country’s highlights: outstanding
natural landscapes, ancient ruins, outdoor activities and the
spectacular site of Petra. They’re arranged in ve colour-coded
categories to help you nd the very best things to see, do and
experience. All entries have a page reference to take you straight
into the Guide, where you can nd out more.
01
Petra Page 259t.BHOJmDFOUBODJFOUDJUZIJEEFOBXBZJOUIFDSBHHZNPVOUBJOTPG
the south – Jordan’s (and one of the world’s) most famous must-see attractions.
17
|
ACTIVITIES
|
CONSUME
|
EVENTS
|
NATURE
|
SIGHTS
|
02
Mount Nebo Page 231 t On this
summit above the Dead Sea (named
in Deuteronomy), where Moses looked out
over the Promised Land, stands a monastery
church richly decorated with mosaics.
03
Jordanian cuisine Page 44
t Sample some of the Middle East’s
finest restaurants, dotted throughout the
streets of upmarket West Amman – or just go
for a delicious bowl of authentically prepared
hummus with fresh bread.
04
Wadi Mujib Page 238 t Jordan’s “Grand Canyon”, now protected as a nature
reserve, with gorge-walking and canyoning amid the rugged valleys.
18
|
ACTIVITIES
|
CONSUME
|
EVENTS
|
NATURE
|
SIGHTS
|
05
Hospitality Page 57 t The hospitality of Jordanians is legendary: whether you're
passing through a city or travelling across the desert, you're bound to be invited in
for tea.
06
Ajloun Page 167 t Set amidst the northern hills is a magnificent Crusader-period
castle, within easy reach of a tranquil nature reserve offering walks and exploration
among highland forests.
19
|
ACTIVITIES
|
CONSUME
|
EVENTS
|
NATURE
|
SIGHTS
|
07
Walking Page 50 t There are plenty of opportunities to get off the beaten track in
Jordan’s back country for a day or a week, whether alone or with an adventure tour
company.
20
|
ACTIVITIES
|
CONSUME
|
EVENTS
|
NATURE
|
SIGHTS
|
10
The Baptism Site Page
137
t A pilgrimage spot alongside
the River Jordan at the place where Jesus
was baptized, commemorated by dozens of
ancient churches and hermitages.
08
Dana Page 250 t Jordan’s flagship nature reserve, covering a sweep of territory from
highland cliffs to the sandy desert floor. Whether you come for the hiking, the natural
environment or the silence, you won’t want to leave.
09
Camel-riding Page 51 t Don't
miss the chance to saddle up and
shuffle off into the sands on the "ship of the
desert".
21
|
ACTIVITIES
|
CONSUME
|
EVENTS
|
NATURE
|
SIGHTS
|
12
Karak castle Page 248 t
Stoutest and starkest remnant of the
Crusaders’ occupation of the country.
14
Umm Qais Page 176 t
Atmospheric Roman and Ottoman
site in the far north of Jordan, offering
spectacular views over the Sea of Galilee –
and relatively few tourists.
11
Jerash Page 154 t A spectacularly
well-preserved Roman city located
in the hills north of Amman, complete
with paved and colonnaded streets, grand
temples, intimate marketplaces and mosaic-
floored churches.
13
The King’s Highway Page
217
t Meandering its way north and
south along the lonely hilltops, this most
picturesque of historic routes links the
farming towns of southern Jordan.
22
|
ACTIVITIES
|
CONSUME
|
EVENTS
|
NATURE
|
SIGHTS
|
17
Modern Amman Page 105 t
Take time out from ruin-hunting to
explore the Jordanian capital’s buzzing cafés,
art galleries and restaurants – a side of the
city few visitors experience.
15
Ancient Amman Page 101 t Roman columns and ruins of an Islamic-era palace
tower over Amman city centre, atop Jebel al-Qal’a (Citadel Hill).
16
Red Sea diving &
snorkelling Page 348
t You
don’t have to be a diver to come nose-
to-nose with a turtle: coral reefs and
multicoloured fish await just beneath the
surface of this warmest and clearest
of seas.
23
|
ACTIVITIES
|
CONSUME
|
EVENTS
|
NATURE
|
SIGHTS
|
18
The “Desert Castles” Page 195 t A string of early-Islamic forts, palaces,
hunting lodges and caravanserais amid the stony desert plains east of Amman. The
picture shows Qasr Harraneh, one of the best of the bunch.
20
The Dead Sea Page 129 t
Enjoy spectacular sunsets at the
lowest point on earth, as you float easily on
this inland lake supported only by the density
of the salty water.
19
Azraq Wetlands Page 208 t
Boardwalks lead through reed-beds
amid the Azraq oasis, in the deserts east of
Amman – perfect for nature walks and bird-
watching excursions.
