frommer''s china

by Peter Neville-Hadley
and J. D. Brown, Josh Chin,
Sharon Owyang, Beth Reiber,
Michelle Sans and Graeme Smith
China
1st Edition
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ISBN 0-7645-6755-1
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54321
1 The Best China Experiences . . . . .1
2 The Best Small Towns . . . . . . . . .3
3 The Best Countryside Trips . . . . .3
4 The Best Mansions & Palaces . . .5
5 The Best Museums . . . . . . . . . . .6
6 The Best Temples . . . . . . . . . . . .7
7 The Best Markets . . . . . . . . . . . .8
8 The Best Festivals . . . . . . . . . . . .9
9 The Best Up-and-Coming
Destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

10 The Best Local
Accommodations . . . . . . . . . . .10
11 The Best Buys . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
12 The Best Chinese
Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Planning Your Trip to China
14
by Peter Neville-Hadley
2
Contents
List of Maps
viii
The Best of China
1
compiled and edited by Peter Neville-Hadley
1
1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . .14
2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . .17
3 Entry Requirements &
Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
China Calendar of Events
. . . . .27
5 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . .32
6 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . .32
7 Specialized Travel Resources . . .35
8 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . .36
9 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . .37
Online Traveler’s Toolbox
. . . . .38

10 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
11 Packages for the Independent
Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
12 Escorted General-Interest
Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
13 Special-Interest Trips . . . . . . . . .48
14 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .49
Ten Rules for Taking Taxis
Around Town
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .53
15 Tips on Accommodations . . . . .54
16 Tips on Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . .58
17 Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . .58
18 Recommended Reading . . . . . .59
Fast Facts: China
. . . . . . . . . . .61
Bêij∫ng, with Ti≈nj∫n & Hébêi
67
by Josh Chin and Peter Neville-Hadley
3
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68
Neighborhoods in Brief
. . . . . . .72
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .73
Fast Facts: Bêij∫ng
. . . . . . . . . .74
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . .76
Airport Hotels
. . . . . . . . . . . . .88
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . .88

5 Exploring Bêij∫ng . . . . . . . . . . .97
The Big Makeover
. . . . . . . . .101
Walking Tour: The Back
Lakes
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110
6 Side Trips from Bêij∫ng . . . . . .113
On the Wild Wall
. . . . . . . . . .114
7 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .121
8 Bêij∫ng After Dark . . . . . . . . . .124
9 Chéngdé . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128
10 Sh≈nhâigu≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134
11 Shíji≈zhu≈ng . . . . . . . . . . . . .137
Walking Tour: The Pagodas
of Zhèngdìng
. . . . . . . . . . . .139
The Northeast
146
by Josh Chin
4
1 Shênyáng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146
Minorities & the Manchu
Myth
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151
Model Citizens?
. . . . . . . . . . .155
2 D≈nd∂ng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156
Border Crossing: North Korea
& Russia

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158
3 Dàlián & Lhshùn . . . . . . . . . . .159
4 Chángch∆n . . . . . . . . . . . . . .167
5 Jílín City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .172
Wild China: Yánbi≈n
. . . . . . . .174
6 Chángbái Sh≈n . . . . . . . . . . .178
7 Harbin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .181
8 Wû Dà Liánchí . . . . . . . . . . . .190
9 Mânzh∂ulî . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .191
Along the Yellow River
195
by Michelle Sans
5
1 Dàtóng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195
2 Hohhot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .202
Walking Tour: Hohhot: Temple
to Temple
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204
3 Yínchu≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .211
The (Nearly) Lost Dynasty
of the X∫ Xià
. . . . . . . . . . . . .212
4 Yán’≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .217
5 Píngyáo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .220
6 Tàiyuán . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .224
7 Wûtái Sh≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . .228
The Silk Routes
234
by Graeme Smith

6
1 X∫’≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .237
2 Huá Sh≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .255
3 Ti≈nshuî . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .257
4 Lánzh∂u . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .260
5 Línxià . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .265
6 Hézuò . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .266
7 Xiàhé (Labrang) . . . . . . . . . . .266
8 Lángmù Sì (Taktsang
Lhamo) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .269
9 Ji≈yùgu≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .271
10 D∆nhuáng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .276
11 Turpan (Tûlûf≈n) . . . . . . . . . . .282
12 Ürümqi (W∆lûmùqí) . . . . . . . .288
13 Kuqa (Kùch√) . . . . . . . . . . . . .294
14 Kashgar (K≈shí) . . . . . . . . . . .298
15 Tashkurgan (Tâshíkùêrg≈n) . . .306
16 Khotan (Hétián) . . . . . . . . . . .307
Wild China: Y∫níng (Gulja)
. . .310
CONTENTS
iv
1 Zhèngzh∂u . . . . . . . . . . . . . .314
2 D√ngf√ng & S∂ng Sh≈n . . . . . .320
3 Luòyáng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .324
4 K≈if√ng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .329
K≈if√ng’s Jews
. . . . . . . . . . . .332
5 Jì’nán . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .334
6 Tài Sh≈n & Tài’≈n . . . . . . . . . .337

The Great Mountain
. . . . . . . .338
7 Q∆fû . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .343
Confucius Says . . .
. . . . . . . . .344
8 Q∫ngdâo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .350
Wild China: The Funeral Pits
of Z∫bó
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .358
9 Nánj∫ng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .360
The Tàipíng Heavenly
Kingdom
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .364
The Nánj∫ng Massacre
. . . . . .368
10 Yángzh∂u . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .373
The Grand Canal
. . . . . . . . . .374
Huáiyáng Cuisine
. . . . . . . . . .378
11 Wúx∫, Tài Hú & Yíx∫ng . . . . . . .379
Wild China: The Water Village
of Tónglî
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .383
Wild China: Xúzh∂u
. . . . . . . .384
12 Héféi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .386
13 Huáng Sh≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . .388
14 Túnx∫ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .393
Hu∫zh∂u Architecture

. . . . . . .396
Shànghâi
399
by J. D. Brown
8
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .400
Neighborhoods
in Brief
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .402
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . .403
Fast Facts: Shànghâi
. . . . . . . .404
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .406
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .417
5 Exploring Shànghâi . . . . . . . . .423
6 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .432
7 Shànghâi After Dark . . . . . . . .434
8 S∆zh∂u . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .435
9 Hángzh∂u . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .438
The Southeast
442
by Peter Neville-Hadley
9
Eastern Central China
313
by Sharon Owyang
7
1 Shàox∫ng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .443
The Straight Story
. . . . . . . . . .447

Honk if You Like
Calligraphy
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .449
Walking Tour: ∑nch≈ng
Gû Zhèn
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .450
2 Níngb∂ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .455
3 Pûtuó Sh≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . .459
4 W√nzh∂u . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .463
5 Fúzh∂u . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .473
6 Wûyí Sh≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .476
7 Quánzh∂u . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .480
8 Xiàmén . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .486
Wild China: The Earth Houses
of Yôngdìng
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .496
9 Jîngdézhèn . . . . . . . . . . . . . .498
10 Jiûji≈ng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .502
11 Guângzh∂u . . . . . . . . . . . . . .505
12 Sh√nzhèn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .520
v
CONTENTS
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .525
Neighborhoods in Brief
. . . . . .532
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . .533
Fast Facts: Hong Kong
. . . . . .534
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .536
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . .543

5 Exploring Hong Kong . . . . . . .550
6 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .556
7 Hong Kong After Dark . . . . . . .560
8 A Side Trip to Macau . . . . . . .563
The Southwest: Mountains & Minorities
573
by Sharon Owyang
11
1 Nánníng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .576
2 Guìlín . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .581
3 Yángshuò . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .588
4 Lóngshèng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .595
5 S≈nji≈ng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .597
6 Bêihâi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .598
7 Guìyáng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .601
8 Kâilî & the Miáo & Dòng
Autonomous Prefecture . . . . .607
The Miáo
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .608
The Dòng
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .612
9 K∆nmíng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .615
China’s Columbus
. . . . . . . . .626
10 Dàlî . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .628
The Burma Road
. . . . . . . . . .630
The Bái
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .632
11 Lìji≈ng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .636

The Nàx∫
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .640
12 Xi≈nggélîl≈ (Zh∂ngdiàn) . . . . .648
The Search for Shangri-La?
. . .649
13 Bâosh≈n & Téngch∂ng . . . . . .652
Crossing into Myanmar
. . . . . .658
14 Jînghóng &
X∫shu≈ngbânnà . . . . . . . . . . .658
The Dâi
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .659
15 Jiànshuî . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .664
16 Hâinán Island . . . . . . . . . . . . .668
Hong Kong
525
by Beth Reiber
10
Yángzî & Beyond
673
by Michelle Sans
12
1 Chéngd∆ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .673
The Ways of Tea
. . . . . . . . . .687
2 Éméi Sh≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .688
A Proper Visit to Éméi Sh≈n
. . .689
3 Lè Sh≈n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .691
4 Q∫ngchéng Sh≈n . . . . . . . . . . .693

5 Wòlóng Nature Reserve
(Wòlóng Zìrán Bâohù Q∆) . . . .695
6 Jiûzhài G∂u (Valley of Nine
Villages) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .697
7 Chóngqìng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .700
8 Dàzú (Dàzú Buddhist
Grottoes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .708
9 Middle Reaches of the
Cháng Ji≈ng . . . . . . . . . . . . . .711
10 Wûhàn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .716
11 Wûd≈ng Sh≈n . . . . . . . . . . . .723
12 Chángsh≈ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .724
Máo’s Roots
. . . . . . . . . . . . .728
13 Nán Yuè Héng Sh≈n . . . . . . . .730
14 Wûlíngyuán/Zh≈ngji≈ Jiè . . . . .732
CONTENTS
vi
1 X∫níng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .738
Tsongkapa: Tibet’s First
Catholic?
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .743
2 Tóngrén (Repkong) . . . . . . . . .745
3 Yùshù (Jyekundo) . . . . . . . . . .747
4 Mâqìn (Dàw∆) . . . . . . . . . . . .750
The Panchen Lama’s Letter
. . .751
5 Golmud (Gé’êrmù) . . . . . . . . .753
Highway Robbery
. . . . . . . . . .754

Railway on the Roof
of the World
. . . . . . . . . . . . .755
6 Lhasa (L≈sà) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .755
7 Shigatse (Rììk≈zé) . . . . . . . . . .767
Where Is the Panchen
Lama?
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .768
8 Gyantse (Ji≈ngz∫) . . . . . . . . . .770
9 Sakya (Sàji≈) . . . . . . . . . . . . .772
10 Lhatse (L≈z∫) . . . . . . . . . . . . .773
11 Pelbar (Dìngrì) . . . . . . . . . . . .774
12 Tingri (Lâo Dìngrì) . . . . . . . . . .775
Everest Trekking
. . . . . . . . . . .776
13 Zh≈ngmù (Dram) . . . . . . . . . .776
Wild China: Mount Kailash
& Lake Manasarovar
. . . . . . . .778
Appendix A: The Chinese Language
780
by Peter Neville-Hadley
The Tibetan World
737
by Graeme Smith
13
1 A Guide to P∫ny∫n
Pronunciation . . . . . . . . . . . .782
2 Mandarin Bare Essentials . . . .783
3 Selected Destinations

by City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .788
vii
CONTENTS
Appendix B: The Chinese Menu
803
Index
818
List of Maps
Bêij∫ng, Ti≈nj∫n & Hébêi69
Bêij∫ng Accommodations, Dining
& Nightlife 78
Bêij∫ng Attractions 98
Walking Tour—
The Back Lakes 111
Chéngdé 129
D∂ngbêi 147
Shênyáng 148
D≈nd∂ng 157
Dàlián 161
Chángch∆n 168
Jílín City 173
Harbin 183
The Yellow River Region 197
Dàtóng 199
Hohhot 203
Yínchu≈n 213
Tàiyuán 225
The Silk Routes 235
X∫’≈n 238
Lánzh∂u 261

Ji≈yùgu≈n 273
D∆nhuáng 277
Turpan 283
Ürümqi 289
Kashgar 299
Eastern Central China 315
Zhèngzh∂u 317
K≈if√ng 331
Tài Sh≈n 339
Q∫ngdâo 351
Nánj∫ng 361
Yángzh∂u 375
Huáng Sh≈n 389
Shànghâi Accommodations &
Dining 408
Shànghâi Attractions 424
The Southeast 443
Shàox∫ng 445
Pûtuó Sh≈n 461
Tàishùn County 469
Quánzh∂u 481
Xiàmén 487
Guângzh∂u 506
K≈ipíng 515
Hong Kong 526
Kowloon 537
Central Hong Kong 541
Macau 565
The Southwest Region 575
Nánníng 577

Guìlín 583
Yángshuò 589
Guìyáng 603
K∆nmíng 616
Dàlî 629
πr H≈i Hú 636
Lìji≈ng 637
Téngch∂ng 655
Jiànshuî 665
The Yángzî Region 674
Chéngd∆ 676
Chóngqìng 701
Wûhàn 717
Chángsh≈ 725
Tibet 739
X∫níng 741
Lhasa 756
About the Authors
Peter Neville-Hadley (development editor) is the author of the Cadogan Guides’ China:
The Silk Routes and Beijing and has also updated and edited various China titles for
Odyssey Guides. A Mandarin speaker and former resident of Beijing who has been to
almost every corner of China, he has written on the country for Time, The Sunday Times
(U.K.), the National Post (Canada), and numerous other magazines and newspapers in
Asia and North America. He moderates The Oriental-List, an Internet discussion list
dealing with travel in China, and can be reached at
J. D. Brown has lived and worked in China and has written about China as a literary
traveler, a travel writer, and a guidebook author. His work has appeared in such diverse
publications as the New York Times, the Washington Post, the Michigan Quarterly Review,
Islands, and National Geographic Traveler. He is also the author of Frommer’s Shanghai and
Frommer’s China: The 50 Most Memorable Trips. When he is not traveling in the Far East,

he lives in Eugene, Oregon.
Josh Chin lived in Beijing for 2
1
⁄
2
years, during which time he worked as a freelance jour-
nalist and travel writer, and served as copy editor for the government-run China Daily. He
first visited China in 1991, and studied Mandarin at Peking University in 1998. He has
also lived in Utah, Maine, and Hong Kong. This is his first book for Frommer’s. He
would like to thank Susan and Yang Jingdong in Changchun, and Feng Hua, Corrie
Dosh, and Katie Benner in Beijing for their various forms of help.
Sharon Owyang, born in Singapore and a graduate of Harvard University, divides her
time between film and television projects in the U.S. and China, and freelance travel writ-
ing. She has written about Shanghai, China, Vietnam, and San Diego for Insight Guides,
Compact Guides, the Los Angeles Times, and several websites. When she’s not traveling,
she pays her dues in Los Angeles, California.
Beth Reiber worked for several years in Germany as a freelance travel writer writing for
major U.S. newspapers and in Tokyo as editor of the Far East Traveler. Now a freelance
travel writer residing in Lawrence, Kansas, with her two sons, she’s the author of several
Frommer’s guides including Frommer’s Japan and Frommer’s Tokyo, and is a contributor to
Frommer’s Europe from $70 a Day and Frommer’s USA.
For the past 15 years, Michelle Sans has studied, taught, and directed academic tours in
China. She speaks and reads Mandarin and holds a master’s degree in Chinese language
and classical literature.
Graeme Smith has traveled through most of China’s backwaters over the last 15 years.
After almost selling his girlfriend to a truck driver for ¥20 ($2.50) he realized it was time
to learn the language properly, and spent 2 years pacing the corridors of Peking and
Tsinghua universities in search of enlightenment. He was lured away from the comforts
of academic life and a substantial contract with the South Coogee Wanderers Football
Club to join our team.

An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s China, 1st Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma-
tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s China: The 50 Most Memorable Trips
Suzy Gershman’s Born to Shop Hong Kong, Shanghai & Beijing
Frommer’s Beijing
Frommer’s Shanghai
Frommer’s Hong Kong
Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality,
value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state,
and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices
and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec-
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Finds

The Best of China
compiled and edited by Peter Neville-Hadley
I
t’s unfortunate for visitors to China that however impressive the country’s
sights, they are often dwarfed by the hype surrounding them. The Chinese travel
industry is determined to shuttle tour groups around a limited shortlist of both
truly magnificent sights and merely wannabe jaw-droppers, selling a highly
imaginary picture-book China so over-promoted that it can hardly fail to disap-
point. And yet beyond the world of the carefully cropped photograph, the over-
charging, and the tourist trap, there is a China where life goes on regardless of
your presence, not staged for your pleasure—where you, rather than just your
wallet, are welcome.
While the first section below features the best and truly worthwhile of the
experiences that figure prominently in the itineraries of both independent and
organized trips, many of the remaining recommendations will lead you off reg-
ular routes and onto do-it-yourself itineraries to small-town alternatives,
regional foods, and small guesthouses in traditional Chinese buildings—to a real
China beyond both the brochure hype and the reach of other guidebooks.
1
1 The Best China Experiences
• Strolling Past the Old Russian
Architecture in Harbin: At the
heart of the Russian-built city,
Zh∂ngyáng Dàji√’s unexpected
cupola-topped Art Nouveau man-
sions are reminders of the 1920s
and 1930s, when Harbin was the
liveliest stop on the eastern leg of
the Trans-Siberian Railroad. See
chapter 4.

• Exploring the Forbidden City’s
Forgotten Corners (Bêij∫ng): No
one fails to be impressed by the
grandeur of the Forbidden City’s
central axis, which is all most visi-
tors see. But the quieter maze of
pavilions, gardens, courtyards,
and theaters to either side have the
greater charm. See p. 97.
• Cycling the City Wall in X∫’≈n:
The largest city walls in China
have been much pierced for mod-
ern purposes and can be tackled in
a modern way, too, with a breezy,
traffic-light-free ride above the
rooftops on rented bicycles and
tandems. Behold views of rem-
nants of vernacular architecture,
clustered around small temples.
See chapter 6.
• Exploring Lìji≈ng’s Old Town:
Built over 800 years ago and
partly rebuilt after a massive 1996
earthquake, Lìji≈ng’s old town,
with its maze of cobblestone
streets, gurgling streams, and orig-
inal and reconstructed traditional
Nàx∫ houses, is one of the most
atmospheric places in China,
hordes of tourists notwithstand-

ing. Rise before the sun, then
watch its golden rays filter
through the gray winding streets,
lighting up the dark wooden
houses. See chapter 11.
• Walking on the Great Wall from
J∫nsh≈nlîng to S∫mâtái (Bêij∫ng):
The Great Wall, winding snake-
like through the mountains, was
meant to be walked. This magnif-
icent 3-hour hike follows China’s
greatest monument through vari-
ous states of repair, from freshly
restored to thoroughly crumbling,
over steep peaks and gentle flats,
and through patches of wilderness
and rugged farmland, with over
two dozen watchtowers along the
way. See chapter 3.
• Riding the Star Ferry (Hong
Kong): There’s no better way to
acquaint yourself with Hong
Kong than to ride the cheapest
cruise in China. The century-old
green-and-white Star ferries weave
between tugs, junks, and ocean-
going vessels in a 5-minute harbor
crossing. See chapter 10.
• Cruising the Lí River (Guìlín):
One of the most popular attrac-

tions in China, the cruise along
the Lí River between Guìlín and
Yángshuò is overexposed and
overpriced, but the scenery along
the way, taking in gently rolling
karst mountains, gigantic bamboo
sprays, and quaint fishing villages,
is still some of the most memo-
rable in the world. See chapter 11.
• Unwinding in a Sìchu≈n Tea-
house: One of the great pleasures
of being in Sìchu≈n is drinking tea
at a neighborhood teahouse. On
any given afternoon at Q∫ngyáng
G∂ng in Chéngd∆, for instance,
seniors can be found playing
mahjong with friends while their
caged songbirds sit in nearby trees
providing ambient music. As
patrons eat watermelon seeds,
nuts, dried squid, or beef jerky,
attendants appear at regular inter-
vals to refill their cups from copper
kettles. For an afternoon of perfect
relaxation, bring a friend and a
deck of cards, or postcards to
write, and forget about sightseeing
for a few hours. See chapter 12.
• Strolling in Shànghâi’s French
Concession: The domain of the

French community up until 1949
was colonial Shànghâi’s trendiest
area, and it remains full of tree-
lined boulevards, colonial man-
sions, and numerous Art Deco
masterpieces, now bundled up
with phone lines and pole-hung
washing. Some of the city’s best
shopping is also here. Just beyond
the former concession is modern
Shànghâi’s trendiest area, the
megadevelopment of restaurants
and shops known as X∫nti≈ndì.
See chapter 8.
• Getting Lost in the Lanes
Around Bêij∫ng’s Back Lakes:
No other city in the world has
anything quite like the hútòng,
narrow lanes once “as numberless
as the hairs on an ox.” Now rap-
idly vanishing, the best-preserved
hútòng are found around a pair of
man-made lakes in the city center.
This section of the city is almost
the last repository of Old Bêij∫ng’s
gritty, low-rise charm, dotted with
tiny temples, hole-in-the-wall
noodle shops, and quiet courtyard
houses whose older residents can
still be seen walking around in

Máo suits. See the walking tour,
“The Back Lakes,” on p. 110.
• Dining Táng-style at the Shânx∫
Grand Opera House (X∫’≈n):
There are several dinner-theater
shows in X∫’≈n, but this one com-
bines a more authentic perform-
ance by an opera company
holding revolutionary credentials,
with an imperial banquet of more
than 20 kinds of dumplings, all
excellent. For booking details, see
p. 253.
• Taking a “Peapod” Boat on
Shénnóng Stream (Yángzî River):
Best of the Three Gorges cruise
excursions, this 2-hour journey
CHAPTER 1
.
THE BEST OF CHINA
2
through a long, narrow canyon
takes passengers to one of the
famous suspended coffins of the
B≈ people, then returns them
downstream in a fraction of the
time. Along the way, howler mon-
keys can sometimes be spotted
swinging through the trees, small
waterfalls appear from the rocks,

and swallows and other small
birds flit about. The water in this
small tributary is surprisingly
clear, and the scenery and silence
are thoroughly calming. See chap-
ter 12.
THE BEST COUNTRYSIDE TRIPS
3
2 The Best Small Towns
• Xiàhé (G≈nsù): This delightful
monastery town nestles in a
mountain valley at an elevation of
2,900m (9,500 ft.). It’s divided
into two sections, primarily Huí
(Muslim) and Hàn Chinese at its
eastern end, changing abruptly to
a Tibetan town as you climb west-
ward to the gorgeous gilded roofs
of the vast Labrang Monastery.
Bent and walnut-visaged Tibetan
pilgrims make you welcome on
the 3km (2-mile) circuit around
the monastery’s perimeter. See
p. 266.
•Mânzh∂ulî (Inner Mongolia): A
tiny town of 50,000 on the Russ-
ian border, lost in a sea of grass,
Mânzh∂ulî is the East-meets-Wild
West frontier outpost David Car-
radine should have used as the

backdrop to the TV series Kung
Fu. It stands on the edge of the
Hulun Buir, an emerald expanse
of grassland shot through with
radiant patches of wildflowers. See
p. 191.
• Dàlî (Yúnnán): This home of the
Bái people, a backpacker’s mecca
for over a decade and recently gen-
trified for large numbers of
tourists, remains a retreat from the
world. You can hike part of the
impressive 19-peak Green Moun-
tains (C≈ng Sh≈n) to the west, sail
on the cerulean Êr Hâi Lake to the
east, take a bike ride into any of
the nearby Bái villages. See p. 628.
• Gyantse (Tibet): Towered over by
the spectacular 13th-century
fortress of Gyantse Dzong, this is
the only substantial settlement in
Tibet to retain its vernacular
architecture of sturdy two- and
three-story farmhouses, offering a
rare and beautiful glimpse of
Tibetan rural life no visitor to
Tibet should miss. See p. 770.
• Yángshuò (Guângx∫): Some decry
it for being over-commercialized,
but this small town on the Lí

River, nestled in a cluster of spiny
pinnacles, has retained enough of
its laid-back charm to be a
delightful alternative to Guìlín.
See p. 588.
• Shàox∫ng (Zhèji≈ng): The gondo-
las of this relaxed “Venice” are
narrow craft with arched, black-
painted woven bamboo awnings,
propelled by wiry boatmen acro-
batically using both hands and feet
to work the oars. The inevitable
rebuilding of the city center has at
least showed some sense of scale
and left intact a few areas of
ancient housing, through which
the boatmen cruise, passing under
Míng-era bridges. See p. 443.
3 The Best Countryside Trips
•Jiûzhài G∂u (Sìchu≈n): This
national park has dense forest,
green meadows, rivers, rapids,
ribbon lakes in various shades of
blue and green, chalky shoals, and
waterfalls of every kind—long and
narrow, short and wide, terraced,
rushing, and cascading. Of cul-
tural interest are six Tibetan vil-
lages of the original nine from
which this valley gets its name. See

p. 697.
• Bayan Bulak (X∫nji≈ng): This
tiny Mongolian hamlet sur-
rounded by breathtaking grass-
lands is reached by a spectacular
journey through pine forests,
waterfalls, and wildflowers. It’s
also close to vast Swan Lake, a
breeding ground for elegant black
swans. See p. 311.
• Chángbái Sh≈n (Jílín): This long-
dormant 2,600m (8,500-ft.) high
volcano is home to Ti≈n Chí, a
deep, pure, mist-enshrouded
crater lake that straddles the
China–North Korea border and
is sacred to both Koreans and
Manchurians. The northern
approach to the lake, with its trail
that climbs alongside the thunder-
ing Chángbái Waterfall, is best in
the fall. The western approach is
ideal in early summer, when its
vast fields of vibrant wildflowers
are in full bloom. See p. 178.
• The Bridges of Tàishùn County
(Zhèji≈ng): Within living mem-
ory, this mountainous area above
W√nzh∂u had no highways other
than the winding paths and steep,

stone-flagged staircases slithering
down slopes to cross fast-moving
rivers at extraordinary “centipede
bridges”—gorgeous hump-backed
and often two-story construc-
tions, with midstream shrines and
topped with writhing ceramic
dragons. Tàishùn still has many
unmetalled roads, and as you fol-
low the original paths through the
lush countryside to find some hid-
den bridge, you pass water buffalo
pulling ploughs. See chapter 9.
• Lángmù Sì (G≈nsù): This Tibetan
monastic center is largely unknown
to Chinese tourists, and the tran-
quil mountain village is reminis-
cent of Lìji≈ng before it was
“discovered.” The town is home to
two major Tibetan monasteries,
housing around 1,000 monks
whose chanting of the scriptures
may be heard throughout the day.
Ramble through narrow ravines
and moraine valleys crowded with
wildflowers, or take a horse trek up
Flower Cap Mountain to obtain
stunning views as far as the holy
mountain of Amnye Machen. See
p. 269.

• Amnye Machen (Q∫nghâi): The
route around this holy mountain,
for a while believed to be the
world’s highest, must be clock-
wise—turning back is sacrilegious.
So once you start on the 3-day
horse trek, or the 7- to 10-day
walk with the aid of a baggage-
carrying yak, there’s no turning
back. But the scenery around the
6,282m (20,605-ft.) peak, and the
company of sometimes entire vil-
lages of Tibetans, make the trek
well worthwhile. See p. 752.
• Around Lìji≈ng (Yúnnán): This
area offers a wide variety of coun-
tryside experiences, from riding a
chairlift up to the glacier park of
the magnificent, snowcapped Jade
Dragon Snow Mountain, to hik-
ing the sheer-sided Tiger Leaping
Gorge while the Yángzî River
rages below, to being rowed in a
“pig-trough” boat across the pris-
tine Lúg∆ Lake—China’s answer
to Lake Tahoe. See p. 636.
•Wûlíngyuán & Zh≈ngji≈ Jiè
(Húnán): This scenic area is made
up of three adjoining subtropical
parklands, with quartzite sand-

stone peaks and pillars to rival
Guìlín’s scenery. There are plenti-
ful rare plants and insects, swarms
of butterflies, a large cave with cal-
cite deposits, and stunning views
CHAPTER 1
.
THE BEST OF CHINA
4
through bamboo, pine, and oak
forest. See chapter 12.
• Everest Base Camp (Tibet):
Whether by 3-hour drive from the
village of Pelbar, or by a 3- to
4-day trek from Tingri, the trip to
the tented base camp (at 5,150m/
16,890 ft.) or to rooms in Rong-
buk Monastery (at 4,980m/16,330
ft.) offers unbeatable vistas of the
world’s toothiest snowcaps set
against a startling cobalt sky. See
chapter 13.
• Hulun Buir Grasslands (Inner
Mongolia): Located just outside
the remote border town of
Mânzh∂ulî, the Hulun Buir’s
grasslands are the most pristine in
China. This expanse of gentle
emerald hills, perfectly punctu-
ated with small streams and rocky

outcrops, is all the more attractive
for how difficult it is to reach. See
chapter 4.
• Great Wall Hike from J∫nsh≈n-
lîng to S∫mâtái (Hébêi): This is
the easiest and most complete way
to experience the breadth of the
Great Wall. See “Best China Expe-
riences,” above, and chapter 3.
• The Leaning Towers of K≈ipíng
(Guângd∂ng): This county is lit-
tered with extraordinary towers
called di≈olóu—some of them
squat brick fortresses dating back
to the 17th-century; others bizarre,
alien watchtowers mostly built by
Chinese who traveled out through
the treaty ports and returned
wealthy enough to build fortified
residences. Up to nine stories high,
the towers sprout turrets and loop-
holes, balconies and cupolas, bor-
rowed from half-understood
European styles encountered any-
where from Macau to Manila.
Di≈olóu tower over almost every
village and rice paddy in the
county. See chapter 9.
• Rice Terraces (Yúnnán, Guângx∫):
Some of southwest China’s most

spectacular vistas are of its terraced
rice fields—golden yellow in the
fall and sparkling silver in the
spring—painstakingly hewn over
hundreds of years by various
minority groups. See chapter 11.
• Huáng Sh≈n (∑nhu∫): The most
famous mountain in China for
scenic beauty, actually a group of
72 peaks, is known for its sea of
clouds, strangely shaped rocks,
unusual pine trees, and bubbling
hot springs—four features that
have inspired countless painters
and poets for over 1,500 years. See
p. 388.
THE BEST MANSIONS & PALACES
5
4 The Best Mansions & Palaces
• Wáng Ji≈ Dàyuàn (Píngyáo): It
took a century for this vast man-
sion to grow to 123 courtyards
and 1,118 houses; the decorative
lattice screens and windows,
shaped openings between rooms
and courtyards, and undulating
walls are exquisite examples of
Míng and Q∫ng vernacular archi-
tecture. See p. 223.
• Potala Palace (Lhasa): A

monastery, a palace, and a prison,
the Potala symbolizes the fusion of
secular and religious power in
Tibet in a vast, slab-sided, red and
white agglomeration on a hilltop
dominating central Lhasa. Despite
the ruination of its surroundings,
there’s no more haunting sight
within China’s modern political
boundaries, and nothing else
which speaks so clearly of the oth-
erness of Tibet. See p. 761.
• The Forbidden City (Bêij∫ng):
Preeminent among the surviving
complexes of ancient buildings in
China, the former residence of the
emperors needs far more time
than most tours give it. See “The
Best China Experiences,” earlier
in this chapter, and p. 97.
•Wêi Huáng G∂ng (Chángch∆n):
Also known as the Puppet
Emperor’s Palace and best known
in the west as the setting for part
of Bernardo Bertolucci’s film, The
Last Emperor, this impressive
palace complex, opened to visitors
after an admirable full-scale
restoration in 2002, was the resi-
dence of Henry Pûyí, China’s last

emperor and subsequently puppet
ruler of Japanese-controlled
Manchukuo. See p. 170.
• Prince G∂ng’s Mansion
(Bêij∫ng): With a garden of elabo-
rate rockeries and peaceful cov-
ered pathways framed by the
sloping tile roofs and brightly
painted beams of its surrounding
buildings, this stunning complex
is the most impressive imperial
residence in Bêij∫ng, outside of the
Forbidden City. See p. 109.
• Qiáo Ji≈ Dàyuàn (Píngyáo): One
of the loveliest of the several mer-
chant family mansions of this
area, this was the set for the film
Raise the Red Lantern. With six
large courtyards, 313 houses, and
fine craftsmanship of lattices, lin-
tels, carvings, wooden balustrades,
and chimneys throughout, the
18th-century manse takes hours
to explore. See p. 222.
• Bìshû Sh≈nzhu≈ng (Chéngdé):
The imperial summer resort and
its surrounding Eight Outer Tem-
ples form another of the greatest
ancient architectural complexes of
China, arranged around a green

valley. The temples have bizarre
borrowings from a number of
minority architectural traditions,
and both temples and palace have
18th-century replicas of buildings
of which the country is most
proud. See p. 130.
CHAPTER 1
.
THE BEST OF CHINA
6
5 The Best Museums
• Hong Kong Museum of History
(Hong Kong): A life-size diorama
of a Neolithic settlement, replicas
of fishing boats and traditional
houses, ethnic clothing, displays
of colorful festivals, and whole
streets of old shop frontages with
their interiors removed piece by
piece and rebuilt here, make this
the most entertaining museum in
China. See p. 551.
•Shânx∫ Lìshî Bówùguân (X∫’≈n):
If you can visit only one museum
in China, this should be it. An
unrivalled collection of treasures,
many demonstrating X∫’≈n’s inter-
national contacts via the Silk
Routes, is more professionally dis-

played here than almost anywhere
else in the mainland. See p. 244.
• Unit 731 Museum (Harbin):
During World War II, Japan set
up a secret facility where it tested
biological weapons on thousands
of live human subjects. This
museum, built on what remains of
the Unit 731 testing grounds,
presents a gloomy but vivid
account of one of the war’s most
obscure and shocking atrocities.
See p. 186.
•S≈nx∫ng Du∫ Bówùguân
(Chéngd∆): An attractive and
well-laid-out museum housing
items from a group of sacrificial
pits, this is one of the most signif-
icant finds in 20th-century China.
See p. 682.
• Shànghâi Bówùguân (Shànghâi):
In terms of display and English
labeling, this ultra-modern
museum (lights fade as you
approach cabinets), loaded with
stunning antiquities, is China’s
most modern and inviting. See
p. 427.
• Nánj∫ng Dàtúsh≈ Jìniànguân
(Nánj∫ng): The deaths of over

300,000 Chinese, killed over the
course of 6 weeks during the 1937
Japanese invasion of Nánj∫ng, are
commemorated here. Photographs
and artifacts documenting the
Japanese onslaught, the atrocities
suffered, and the aftermath, are
sobering, grisly, and shockingly
effective. See p. 368.
• Wáng ∑ntíng Xiâoxiâo Zhân-
lânguân (Chéngd∆): Located in a
narrow lane west of the main town
square, this small, one-of-a-kind
museum contains tens of thou-
sands of Máo pins, Cultural Revo-
lution memorabilia, and vintage
photographs. The museum occu-
pies the living room of its devoted
proprietor. See p. 681.
THE BEST TEMPLES
7
6 The Best Temples
•Kông Miào (Q∆fû): One of
China’s greatest classical architec-
tural complexes, this spectacular
temple in Confucius’s home town
is the largest and most magnifi-
cent of the hundreds of temples
around the country honoring the
sage. Greatly enlarged since it was

originally built in 478
B
.
C
., it has
a series of gates and buildings
aligned on a north-south axis and
decorated with imperial flourishes
like yellow-tiled roofs and dragon-
entwined pillars. See p. 346.
• Màij∫ Sh≈n Shík∆ (Ti≈nshuî):
This haystack-shaped mountain
of soft red rock, covered in bril-
liant green foliage, is China’s pret-
tiest cave-temple site, and the only
one where statuary has been
added to the cave walls rather than
carved out of them. Views from
the stairs and walkways lacing the
cliffs are spectacular (including
those straight down). See p. 258.
• Zhèngdìng (Hébêi): Neither the
most spectacular nor the best
known of temple groups, but
within a short walking distance of
each other, are some of China’s
oldest surviving unimproved tem-
ple buildings (one of which
houses a 30m/90-ft.) high multi-
armed bronze of Gu≈ny∫n), and a

collection of ancient pagodas so
varied it’s almost as if they’ve been
set out specifically to surprise you.
See p. 139.
• Jokhang Temple (Lhasa): The
spiritual heart of Tibetan Bud-
dhism, this temple should be vis-
ited twice: once to see the intense
devotion of pilgrims circumnavi-
gating it by prostrating themselves
repeatedly across cobblestones
made slippery by centuries of
burning yak butter lamps, and
rubbing their foreheads against
the statuary in the dim, smoky
interior; and a second time in the
afternoon for a closer look at the
ancient images they venerate. See
p. 760.
• Temple of Heaven (Bêij∫ng): The
circular Hall of Prayer for Good
Harvests, one of the finest achieve-
ments of Míng architecture, is
almost as well-known as a symbol
of Bêij∫ng as the Ti≈n’≈n Mén, but
the three-tiered sacrificial altar of
plain stone is thought by many to
be the most sublime object of
beauty in China. See p. 105.
• Mòg≈o Shík∆ (D∆nhuáng): The

biggest, best-preserved, and most
significant site of Buddhist statu-
ary and frescoes in all China, with
the broadest historical range, the
Mòg≈o Caves, in their tranquil
desert setting, should be your
choice if you can see only one cave
site. See p. 279.
•Y∂nghé G∂ng (Bêij∫ng): After the
Q∫ng Y∂ngzhèng emperor moved
into the Forbidden City, his per-
sonal residence was converted into
this temple. Several impressive
incense burners are scattered
throughout the golden-roofed
complex, also known as the Lama
Temple. A 20m (60-ft.) tall san-
dalwood statue of Maitreya, the
future Buddha, fills the last build-
ing. See p. 107.
•Bâodîng Sh≈n (Dàzú): Artisti-
cally among the subtlest and most
sophisticated of China’s Buddhist
grottoes, these Sòng dynasty caves
are situated around a horseshoe-
shaped cove, at the center of
which is lush forest. See p. 709.
• Lóngmén Shík∆ (Luòyáng):
About 2,300 caves and niches
with more than 2,800 inscriptions

and over 100,000 Buddhist stat-
ues are spread across two hills and
400 years in time. See p. 325.
• Yúngâng Shík∆ (Sh≈nx∫): These
are the earliest Buddhist caves
carved in China. Most were hol-
lowed out over a 65-year period
between 460 and 524. Viewed as a
whole, they show a movement
from Indian and Central Asian
artistic models to greater reliance
on Chinese traditions. See p. 198.
See also Chéngdé’s Bìshû Sh≈nzhu≈ng
and its Eight Outer Temples, in “The
Best Mansions & Palaces,” above.
CHAPTER 1
.
THE BEST OF CHINA
8
7 The Best Markets
• Kashgar Sunday Bazaar: The
bazaar is now split in two and not
quite what it was, but the live-
stock part of the market, southeast
of town, is still well worth visiting.
Bearded Uighur men in tradi-
tional blue and white garb
sharpen their knives and trim
their sheep, small boys wearing
Inter Milan strip gorge themselves

on Hami melons, Kyrgyz in dark
fur hats pick up and drop dozens
of lambs to test their weight and
meatiness before settling deals
with vigorous and protracted
handshakes. See p. 302.
•P≈nji≈yuán Jiùhuò Shìchâng
(Bêij∫ng): A vast outdoor market
held on weekends, P≈nji≈yuán
teems with what is very likely the
world’s best selection of things
Chinese: row upon row of every-
thing from reproduction Míng
furniture to minority clothing to
Máo memorabilia. Most of the
antiques are fakes, although
experts have made some surprising
finds in the bedlam. See p. 122.
•K≈if√ng Night Market (K≈if√ng):
Visitors overnight in K≈if√ng just
so they can attend this famous and
festive night market whose main-
stay is the wide variety of delicious
local snacks on offer, such as five-
spice roasted bread, sesame soup,
and spicy lamb kabob. See p. 334.
• Khotan Sunday Bazaar: This is
everything the Kashgar Market
once was. Jewelers pore over gem-
stones, blacksmiths busy them-

selves shoeing horses and repairing
farm tools, blanket makers beat
cotton balls, rat-poison sellers
proudly demonstrate the efficacy
of their products—the sights and
smells are overwhelming. Don’t
miss the horse-riding enclosure
towards the north side of the
melée, where buyers test the road-
worthiness of both beast and
attached cart, with frequent spec-
tacular tumbles. See p. 308.
• Temple Street Night Market
(Hong Kong): Prices here are out-
rageous compared to those at
China’s other markets, but the
scene at this night market is very
entertaining, especially the for-
tune-tellers and street-side per-
formers singing Chinese opera.
See p. 560.
THE BEST UP-AND-COMING DESTINATIONS
9
8 The Best Festivals
For dates and contact information, see
also the “China Calendar of Events”
on p. 27.
• Saka Dawa, held throughout the
Tibetan world, celebrates the
Buddha passing away and thus

attaining nirvana. It’s held on the
8th to 15th days of the fourth
lunar month, with religious danc-
ing, mass chanting and “sunning
the Buddha”—the public display
of giant sanctified silk portraits.
See chapter 13.
• Ice & Snow Festival (Harbin):
Not so much a festival as an
extended citywide exhibition,
Harbin’s Ice and Snow Festival
runs from December to March
every year and is without doubt
the northeast’s top winter attrac-
tion. The festival centers around
hundreds of elaborate ice and
snow sculptures, frosty reproduc-
tions of everything from Ti≈n’≈n
Mén to Elvis. See chapter 4.
•S≈nyuè Jié (Dàlî): This once-reli-
gious festival celebrated by the Bái
people in mid-April/early May
now features 5 days and nights of
considerably more secular singing,
dancing, wrestling, horse-racing,
and large-scale trading. This is a
rare opportunity to see not only
the Bái, but a number of Yúnnán’s
other minorities, gathering
together in one of the most beau-

tiful and serene settings in the
foothills of the Green Mountains
(C≈ng Sh≈n). See chapter 11.
• Kurban Bairam (Kashgar): Cele-
brations are held in Muslim com-
munities across China, but in
Kashgar they involve feats of
tightrope-walking in the main
square and wild dancing outside
the Idkah Mosque. The 4-day fes-
tival is held 70 days after the
breaking of the fast of Ramadan,
on the 10th day of the 12th month
(Dhul-Hijjah) in the Islamic calen-
dar. It falls on February 1, 2004,
and annually shifts backwards by
11 days. See chapter 2.
• Miáo New Year Festival (X∫ji≈ng,
Lángdé): The Miáo celebrate many
festivals, but one of the biggest
blowouts is the occasion of the
Miáo New Year, usually around
December. The celebration fea-
tures songs, dances, bullfights, and
lúsh√ng competitions, not to men-
tion Miáo women gorgeously
bedecked in silver headdresses
engaging in various courtship ritu-
als. See chapter 11.
• Wéif≈ng International Kite Fes-

tival: Thousands of kites take to
the skies for 2 days in April in one
of the world’s largest kite-flying
galas. You can simply watch, of
course, but the Chinese claim the
kite as their invention, so there’s
no better time and place to pick
up the end of the string yourself.
See chapter 7.
9 The Best Up-and-Coming Destinations
•Yôngdìng (Fújiàn): The magnifi-
cent multistory circular fortresses
of the Hakka minority, known as
“earth buildings” and home to
hundreds (usually all with the
same family name), are the largest
and most striking examples of sur-
viving domestic architecture in
China. See chapter 9.
• Yùshù (Q∫nghâi): Khampa areas
within the Tibet “Autonomous
Regions” are closed to the individ-
ual traveler, but here these fiercely
proud Tibetan warriors trade in a
traditional market town beneath a
stern gray and red monastery. See
chapter 13.
• Jiànshuî (Yúnnán): This small
Hàn-dynasty town boasts the
third largest Confucian temple in

the country, some exquisitely
restored traditional Míng and
Q∫ng dynasty residences, and an
unusual collection of old-fash-
ioned wells. Jiànshuî is also the
gateway to some of the most beau-
tiful terrace fields in the country.
See chapter 11.
• Yánbi≈n (Jílín): A lush, achingly
pretty hilly region perched on
China’s border with North Korea,
parts of which have only recently
been opened to tourism, Yánbi≈n
is home to the largest population
of ethnic Koreans outside the
peninsula itself. Independent-
minded travelers have the oppor-
tunity to explore one of the few
truly bicultural societies in China.
See chapter 4.
• Téngch∂ng (Yúnnán): This
charming overlooked town on the
ancient southern Silk Route is
poised to become an important
tourist destination in the coming
years as tourist authorities gear up
to promote travel along the
ancient trade route. For now,
Téngch∂ng is still a laid-back,
friendly town with a surprisingly

large number of attractions that
include hot springs, volcanoes,
waterfalls, temples, and some
absolutely delightful traditional
Chinese villages just outside it.
See chapter 11.
• Píngyáo (Sh≈nx∫): Chinese
tourists have discovered Píngyáo,
but the numbers of Western
tourists are still relatively few at
what is one of the best-preserved
Míng and Q∫ng towns in China.
An intact Míng city wall sur-
rounds clusters of elegant high-
walled courtyard residences, some
of which are also guesthouses. See
chapter 5.
• Quánzh∂u (Fújiàn): An overnight
ferry from Hong Kong, a few days
in Xiàmén, and a short bus trip to
Quánzh∂u combine to make the
perfect less-traveled start to a
China trip. Quánzh∂u’s rebuilt city
center is more to scale than most,
with hints of traditional style. The
laid-back town has plenty of inter-
est to see, at a human scale and
pace. See chapter 9.
CHAPTER 1
.

THE BEST OF CHINA
10
10 The Best Local Accommodations
•D∆nhuáng Sh≈nzhu≈ng (D∆n-
huáng): The finest hotel on the
Silk Routes, with views of the
Míngsh≈ Sh≈n Dunes, this impos-
ing fortress is surrounded by styl-
ishly renovated courtyard houses.
See p. 280.
•Lhs∂ng Yuán B∫nguân: Of all
Bêij∫ng’s traditional courtyard-
style hotels, this former imperial
residence has the most character,
recalling the opulence of China’s
“feudal” era, but with a more
lived-in feel than you’ll find else-
where. See p. 86.
• Lóngmén Guìb∫n Lóu (Harbin):
Built by the Russian-controlled
Chinese Eastern Railroad in 1901,
the Lóngmén has served as a hos-
pital, the Russian Embassy, and a
cheap hostel for migrant workers.
In the 1930s and 1940s, it was
part of the illustrious Japanese-
owned Yamato Hotel chain. The
Chinese Railway Bureau reno-
vated the building in 1996, pre-
serving the original Russian

woodwork and restoring much
of its turn-of-the-20th-century
atmosphere. Rooms are palatial
and decorated with period furni-
ture. See p. 188.
•Zh∆ji≈ Hu≈yuán Kèzhàn (Jiàn-
shuî): A stay at this charming
guesthouse, which occupies sev-
eral wings of the exquisitely
restored, 214-room, 42-courtyard
Q∫ng dynasty mansion, is a
delightful step back in time. See
p. 667.
• Sèmân B∫nguân (Kashgar): Set
on the grounds of the former
Russian Consulate, this has
merely two government-issued
stars and poor service, but stan-
dard rooms and suites in the orig-
inal and beautifully decorated
consulate buildings, with their
high ceilings and dramatic oil
paintings, can be bargained down
to low prices. This is the nearest
you’ll get to experiencing some
“Great Game” ambience. See
p. 303.
• Déj∆ Yuán & Ti≈n Yuán Kuí
(Píngyáo): These are the top two
courtyard guesthouses in a town

full of ancient architecture. The
Déj∆ Yuán has rooms decorated
with calligraphy and furnished
with dark wooden Míng style
tables and chairs and traditional
heated brick beds. The Ti≈n Yuán
Kuí also offers occasional opera
performances on hot summer
nights when the guesthouse is full
and the performers available. See
p. 224.
• Former Consulates (W√nzh∂u
and Xiàmén): W√nzh∂u’s Ji≈ngx∫n
Liáoyângyuàn is a former British
Consulate from 1894, set peace-
fully on an offshore island. There
are only six very oddly shaped
rooms, the best of which is vast and
high-ceilinged with a balcony with
a view across the water. Xiàmén’s
J∫nquán B∫nguân is more upmar-
ket, a recently converted former
U.S. Consulate from 1928 on the
island of Gûlàng Yû, with views
towards Xiàmén proper. Both for-
mer consulates allow modern visi-
tors a whiff of the treaty port past.
See p. 466 and 495.
The Peace Hotel, the best of
Shànghâi’s historic hotels—built in

1929 as the Cathay Hotel—features a
lobby that is an Art Deco masterpiece,
and splendid public areas. Rooms
have been modernized, but the service
has lapsed. Go for lunch or a drink.
See also Yôngdìng in “The Best Up-
and-Coming Destinations,” above. A
night in a several-hundred-year-old
earthen fortress is as authentic as it
gets, but don’t expect luxuries (or even
necessities).
THE BEST BUYS
11
11 The Best Buys
• Chén Lú (Shânx∫): Seventeen
small factories turn out different
styles of pottery, and their show-
rooms have starting prices so low
you’ll volunteer to pay more. You
can also buy original works in the
houses of individual artisans. See
chapter 6.
• Hù Xiàn (Shânx∫): There’s no
better place than the source to
buy these farmers’ paintings with
their brilliant colors and scenes of
village fairs and peasants harvest-
ing crops or herding geese. See
chapter 6.
•Zh∂ng Bêi Jiùhuò Shìchâng

(X∫’≈n): There are fakes aplenty, as
everywhere else, but this bustling
antiques market, fed by continu-
ous new discoveries in the sur-
rounding plain, is geared to locals,
so asking prices are not as absurd
as elsewhere. See chapter 6.
• Jatson School (Lhasa): High-
quality Tibetan handicrafts,
including traditional Tibetan
clothing, paper, incense, mandala
thangkas, yak-hide boots, ceramic
dolls, door hangings, bags, and
cowboy hats, are all made on-site,
and sold at very fair prices. Your
money goes to support poor,
orphaned, and children with dis-
abilities. See chapter 13.
• Name-Brand Clothing & Acces-
sories: Adequate to near-perfect
imitations of items by North Face,
Louis Vuitton, Prada, Gucci, Polo,
and just about any other expensive
label you can think of can be had
for a song at several markets in
China, especially at Bêij∫ng’s Silk
Street and Hóngqiáo markets,
Shànghâi’s Xi≈ngyáng Lù market,
and Sh√nzhèn’s Luó Hú Commer-
cial City (not quite as cheaply).

See chapters 3, 8, and 9.
• Khawachen Carpet and Wool
Handicraft Co. Ltd (Lhasa): This
U.S.–Tibetan factory’s carpets
have rich but tasteful shades
woven into delightful traditional
patterns. Carpets can also be made
to order. You’ll pay much less here
than in New York or even Bêij∫ng.
See chapter 13.
• Qípáo: Tailors in Bêij∫ng and
Shànghâi will cut a custom-fit
qípáo, the tight-fitting traditional
dress better known by its Can-
tonese name cheongsam, some-
times for hundreds of dollars less
than in Hong Kong and the West.
A quality tailored dress, lined with
silk and finished with handmade
buttons, typically costs between
$100 and $200. Slightly less fancy
versions go for as little as $50.
Custom-embroidered fabrics are
also available very cheaply. See
chapters 3 and 8.
Note: Pearls, antiques, jade, jewelry in
general, and objets d’art are fakes or
are not worth the asking price (usually
both). Unless you are an expert or are
happy to have a fake, do not buy these

things.
CHAPTER 1
.
THE BEST OF CHINA
12
12 The Best Chinese Restaurants
Turn to each chapter’s full restaurant
reviews for contact information and
details of dishes, and use the charac-
ters given in “Appendix B: The Chi-
nese Menu” to place your orders. It’s
easy.
• Hàn Kèji≈ (Bêij∫ng): This restau-
rant’s stylized mix of stone floors
and rough-hewn wood tables, set
against the backdrop of one of
Bêij∫ng’s lakes, is enough to make
it noteworthy. But it is the food—
a delicate interpretation of little-
known Hakka cuisine—that
places it among the best restau-
rants in the country. The sweet
“secret recipe” paper-wrapped fish
ranks among the most divine
seafood entrees anywhere. See
p. 95.
• Shìjì X∫ng (Turpan): Set in grape
fields north of town, with a melt-
water stream flowing by, this
Uighur restaurant is a favorite

among locals for carousing late
into the night, and features
dancers from all over X∫nji≈ng.
See p. 287.
•B≈guó Bùy∫ (Chéngd∆): The art-
fully rustic surroundings are a
pleasure in themselves, but this
restaurant is a particular favorite
with locals for its delicious local
fare made with fresh, natural
ingredients. See p. 684.
• Wúmâi’êrhóng Mêishí Chéng
(Kuqa): This is the most illustri-
ous restaurant in this charming
oasis town. Cheerful Uighur staff
serve the tastiest, most filling
kabobs in the X∫nji≈ng region. See
p. 297.
• Mayke Ame (Lhasa): Set in the
former pleasure palace of Dalai
Lama VI, who preferred skirts to
sutras, this is the Tibetan capital’s
most charming restaurant. See
p. 764.
•D∂ngf≈ng Jiâozi Wâng (Harbin):
This always-busy restaurant on
Harbin’s celebrated Zh∂ngyáng
Dàji√ produces some of the best
jiâozi anywhere, served the way
they should be: generously filled

and unadorned, with a mouth-
watering, make-it-yourself vine-
gar-and-garlic dipping sauce. See
p. 189.
•Bêij∫ng Dàdông Kâoy≈ Diàn
(Bêij∫ng): When done properly,
roast duck, cooked in a wood-
fired oven then sliced and rolled in
pancakes with plum sauce and
green onion, is one of the finest
dining experiences in China. This
place does it best. See p. 91.
•Lâo S∆n Ji≈ (X∫’≈n): This is the
best place to sample X∫’≈n’s most
celebrated dish, yángròu pàomó, a
self-assembled lamb stew with
coriander, chili, and garlic, thick-
ened with bread you crumble
yourself. See p. 252.
• Míng Yuán (Nánj∫ng): Few peo-
ple have heard of D∫ngsh≈n
dishes, but locals will tell you that
this unusual cuisine, created in
Nánj∫ng over 20 years ago, is guar-
anteed to refresh and delight even
the most jaded of palates with
crab steeped for a week in wine,
honey, and spices; sautéed Yúnnán
mushroom with crab paste; and
the restaurant’s signature hand-

made fish noodles. See p. 371.
•C∆chá Dànfàn (Wûhàn): Among
the specialties, which rely on local
produce, are dishes served in bam-
boo stalks and hollowed-out mel-
ons and squashes. This is a chance
to try Húnán dishes with a slight
bite, as well as dishes rarely seen in
restaurants in the West. See p. 722.
•Kông Y∫jî Jiûlóu (Bêij∫ng): Deco-
rated to look like a traditional
study and named for the drunken
scholar-hero of a short story by
father of modern Chinese litera-
ture Lû Xùn, the atmospheric
Kông Y∫jî serves wonderfully exe-
cuted dishes from the Yangtze
River delta where Lû was born.
See p. 96.
• Cháng Mû Dì Yóumiàn Dà
Wáng (Hohhot): This bustling
restaurant, a mix of Mongolian ger
and prettified farmhouse, special-
izes in Mongolian pastas and pan-
cakes that you’re not likely to find
anywhere at home. Try husked-
wheat pancakes filled with carrots,
potato, and cabbage, rolled up and
sliced like Mediterranean levant
sandwiches. See p. 209.

• Luk Yu Tea House (Hong Kong):
First opened in 1933, this is the
city’s most famous remaining tea-
house, a wonderful Art Deco–era
Cantonese restaurant with ceiling
fans, spittoons, individual wooden
booths for couples, marble table-
tops, and stained-glass windows.
It’s one of the best places to try
Chinese teas, but it’s most famous
for its dim sum, served from 7am
to 5:30pm. See p. 547.
•Sh≈ng Palace (Hángzh∂u): This
restaurant is expensive, but it
deserves its place here as the pur-
veyor of simply the best of the
region’s delicate Huáiyáng cuisine,
using modern techniques to turn
“beggar’s chicken” into a feast fit
for an emperor, and in equally
imperial surroundings. See p. 524.
THE BEST CHINESE RESTAURANTS
13
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