Tải bản đầy đủ (.doc) (8 trang)

Bộ sưu tập Isko demin pot

Bạn đang xem bản rút gọn của tài liệu. Xem và tải ngay bản đầy đủ của tài liệu tại đây (58.74 KB, 8 trang )

Isko
Collection definitions
Concept definitions
Multiplicity
This is the group that includes standard Denim-finish basic types of the ISKO Denim
Collections. Although the denim fabric in this category varies in color, material and slub
character, since the finishing process is standardized, this type is a member of the
standard denim group. As the finalization process is shorter, this is quite advantageous
in meeting tight deadline terms. This group comprises product types for our customers
who want basic denim that has price advantage and a good color variety and visibility.
Retro
Our Retro Group comprises our Flat-finish, Soft-finish and city finish types. Because of
the extra-flatness, brightness, high stability, softness, the ability to take various grinding
effects due to different finishing processes, the standard Denim has become the modern
Denim. Again, due to different characteristic of each finishing method, the are various
color, quality, usability types in this group. Our Retro Group has become the foundation
for modern Denim products.
Matrix
This is the Matrix-finish type that comes in various color and structure. We do have
products that have color, tone and wash characteristics that are very different than
classic denim.
Intensified
This is our fantasy concept that comprises unusual color, construction, knitting, overdye
and covering processes. Many of our types which started as a fantasy type at first later
became full concept types due to above described characteristics. This concept type can
be described as the concept type that includes all different types of dying, finishing and
finalizing with different methods produced using the advantage of ISKO’s being an
integrated plant structure. As a result, this concept is the catogiry where you can find
modern fashion models different than the standard denim.
Fusion
This is our Stretch Denim Fabric concept. One of the strong aspects of ISKO Denim is


that its stretch fabric production is still very crisp and important as most of the famous
brands go with our stretch fabric due to its crisp visibility, physical performance and
durability. Just the number of stretch denim types of ISKO by itself is higher than the
total number denim types of many other denim producers in the market. This, we
believe, is a good indicator of the strength of ISKO’s stretch denim fabric.
Flame
By contructing thin and thick layers on thread, slub-appearenced-yarn is formed. In a
normal thread there are 150 to 1000 slubs in every 100 km whereas in our Flame group
there are 7000 to 10,000 slubs in every 100 km. This has allowed us to produce various
3D fabrics. Having different thicknesses on the fabric surface produces flame-like
appearances. In addition, intersection of the various thickness layers allows the fabric to
have a heavier-than-actually-is appearance. Dark cross hatch effect is obtained by
applying negative slub in the negative direction using scarf-fabric.
Redox
As well known, applying resin dip to threaded fabric and washing afterwards has been
used by a lot of the denim producers and great success has been obtained. However, due
to challenges in resin dip use and the strength reducing effect of resin on finish product
has been disadvantageous in addition to increase in total production cost. We manage to
ontain similar to resin-dip effect described above in our Redox-finish fabric without
causing reduction in fabric strength. The Redox fabric is tremendous especially in thin
and stretch denim fabrics. Another advantage to Redox fabric is that sanding on this
fabric is a lot cleaner and smoother. In addition, sanding process becomes a lot easier.
Color definitions
1 – 100% indigo colors
Blue
This is a standard medium thickness 100% indigo color. It gets lighter after washing in
tones of blue. After whitening process, it can easily get to ice-blue color. It is named as
“12-16 dip” color in the market.
Pure indigo
This is a medium-dark 100% indigo color. It gets lighter after washing in tones of blue.

The period to get to lighter tones takes longer than Blue color described above. Pure
indigo is a slight reddish characteristic-wise color. It is named as “24 dip” color in the
market.
π
2
- pi x pi ( pure indigo x pure indigo )
Normally, to obtain dark colors, in addition to indigo other dyes are used. In stone and
whitening washes, indigo and other dyes move differently relative to each other.
Because of this very reason, in stone washing grey color characteristics and in
whitening-washing yellowish color which ruins the real clear sky blue color. All these
are not necessarily desired effects.
Although π
2
. is a very dark color, since perimeter dyeing techniques are used getting
different effects is easy. In stone and whitening washes, as there is a single color, there
are no color differenciations and perfect blue color can be obtained. As the color is very
dark, even in whitening washes, very strong threading and pocket effect can be
obtained.
This is the darkest 100% indigo color in the denim industry. π
2
. is a reddish
characteristic-wise color. It is named as “48 dip” color in the market.
2 – Grey cast
Deep blue
The most common method for changing the tone of blue colored indigo is dyeing yarn
with yarn dyes along with indigo. Especially changing indigo color by using black and
grey dyes is the most common method in the industry. By the help of this method, by
rinse washing darker colors can be obtained and by stone washing grayish blue tones
can be achieved. This is the color group known as grey background-grey cast in the
market. Different tones can be obtained by adjusting the darkness of the other color.

The deep blue color we use in ISKO is a general term which comprises all the colors in
this group. This is, however, never a single tone; in contrast it only gives an idea that it
gives a definite idea that it has a grey background characteristic. In this color tone, blue
is still dominant; grey and black tones have modifier effects.
Nite blue
The Nite Blue is a combination of very dark background along with a mixture of π
2

colors. The grey background color penetrates all the way into the yarn. In π
2
colors, the
ring effect and stoned areas appear as grey rather than white in Nite Blue. Nite Blue
color can be considered as a very dark deep blue color.
Grey blue
Grey Blue has grey background but has a different characteristic varying from both the
Deep Blue and Nite Blue above. The whole yarn is 100% grey in color without any
while points in the structure. In addition, this grey color cannot be whitened with any
whitening agent or chemical. Due to this characteristic, wherever local whitening is
performed grey tones are obtained instead of white tones. After stone washing, “dense
grey” character is observed and as the fabric is washed by the end user, the fabric
changes toward regular grey color. And after a complete whitening process, actual grey
color is obtained.
Self blue
After the World War II as there was shortage of petroleum, there was a reduction in
indigo production. Due to this, indigo usage was reduced accordingly. As a result, the
products were lighter color. Self Blue is bright color tone designed by mixing grey
greenish colors with a smalled amount of indigo to remind the production from the
older times. By rinse washing, greenish bright blue and by stone washing lighter
brighter blue is obtained. By whitening washing, it is possible to obtain real bright blue
tones.

3 – Dark blue
Dark blue
Dark blue is mixture of black and indigo; a rather different combination compared to
deep blue. In deep blue, blue color is dominant while in dark blue black color is
dominant. By rinse washing, blueish back, by stone washing blueish grey and by
whitening washing bright blue indigo color is obtained.
Zift
Zift can be defined as the extreme end of Dark Blue color. It is designed as the mixture
of extreme end black color mized with indigo. After rinse washing, because of the effect
of indigo, it looks darker than regular black color. By stone washing, grey-blue colors
are obtained. By whitening washing light blue indigo color can be obtained.
Super dark
Super dark is a mixture of extremes of π
2
and Zift colors. By this combination the
darkest Denim ever is obtained. Especially in rinse washing, the color is darker than old
the other blacks. It is possible to obtain very dark colors as both the π
2
and Zift colors
are trying for dominancy. By stone washing, very dark grey background indigo colors
and by whitening washing dark blue colors are obtained.
4 – Green cast
Combining yellow and blue colors result in green. Similarly, greenish tones of indigo
are obtained by using indigo with tones of yellow.
Sea blue
Sea Blue is the brightest color of the Green Cast family. By using a small amount of
indigo, sea blue is obtained. This color is great for summer time. By rinse washing it is
possible to obtain very bright colors. It is suitable for stone and whitening washing.
Green cast
Green Cast is the medium dark color of the Green Cast family. As the green color is

dominant inside the yarn, ring effect is more on the green side rather than white as
usual.
Dark green
Green is dominant in this color that is composed of dark green and high concentrations
of indigo. The dominancy of green color increases espeacially by flat-finish process. As
indigo and green dye is not spread homogenously throughout the yarn, in the stoned and
ring effect sections, dark green color can easily by seen. The yellow colors on the scarf
fabric of our flat finish products that are dyed by dark green should be considered as a
normal effect.
5 – Brown cast
One of the easier ways to obtain dirty looking appearance from denim fabric is mixing
brown tones with indigo.
Rusty indigo
The major characteristic of Rusty indigo obtained by mixing brown tones with indigo is
that it has rusty dirty appearance after washing. As brown color is strong against
whitening chemicals, it is possible to see dirty brown color at local spots. Depending on
the intensity of whitening, it allows to obtain different tones of brown and blue mixtures
by washing.
Brown cast
Brown is one of the more popular colors for the 2006-2007 winter seasons. In addition
to only brown by itself, using it along with indigo has resulted is one of the stronger
colors of the season. Washing brown as if it where indigo has resulted in interesting
colors. It is possible to obtain a deep color from rinse washing of blue and dark brown
and brownish colors from stone washing and greenish colors by whitening washing.
6 – Purple blue
By mixing indigo and red, purple denim is obtained. This is great color for our
customers especially in fantasy women and children wear.
7 – Color denim
Until today, everybody thought indigo could only be blue in color. However, ISKO has
managed to modify indigo to produce different colors. Using this method, ISKO is able

to produce colors denims like red, green, brown, etc. with similar properties such as
wash and color effects as indigo.
Finish definitions
Raw
This is the finishing method to obtain old-style Denim look. This fabric has surface
looks rough and has natural wash lines.
Denim finish
Traditional pre-shrunk fabric is what we call Denim Finish fabric at ISKO. This is the
most standard finish method that can be abllied to pre-shrunk fabric. It basically
comprises the following; burning to flatten the fabric surface, apre a cemical process to
ease weaving, sloping and the buffer which is the part that avoids shrinking.
Mill washed
Mill washed is for customers who desire a non-washed. As the fabric leaves the plant,
the fabric surface is rough, and can be directly taken to the manufacturing plant without
any washing process. However, a slight amount of shrinkage can occur when the
product is washed by the end user.
Flat
This fabric has a flat and bright appearance without washing. As the fabric is sawhed,
the fabric protects its flatness and brightness. Although Retro fabric gets yellowish as
the washing gets heavier, Flat fabric preserves its color. Flat fabric softness differs from
Flat fabric.
Soft flat
Soft flat is a mixture of mill wash ve flat processes. Therefore, this type is softer that the
flat fabric. In addition, this fabric does not require pre-washing. This can be considered
a finish method somewhere between the flat finish and the retro finish.
Retro
Retro gives a bright and extra flat appearance to the fabric. As stone and whitening
washing takes place, the fabric presumes its flatness and gets an old looking yellowing
look. This fabric does not require pre-washing process either.
City finish

City Finish adds extra flatness and brightness to the fabric. This fabric is designed for
business casual wear for businessmen and businesswomen. As the fabric goes well with
business wear, it allows the end user to use it at work as well as after work. This fabric
is very desirable for city life due to its brightness and flatness. The fabric stays sharp
after different washing processes as well. This is another advantage for City Finish.
Denim fixed
Denim Fixes is a special process applied to stretch fabric. By this method appearance of
stretch denim is very similar to standard denim fabric.
Thermofixed
Thermofixed is also a process applied to stretch denim fabric. In this process, vertical
shrinkage is controlled. After this process, the fabric has flatter look especially after
washing process. Thermofixed also allows elasticity control.
Relax stretch
When stretch fabric goes through washing process, the fabric gets harder due to lycra-
effect. By the help of this new relax stretch method, this problem is avoided. The finish
fabric is soft and flat as well as bright. All our stretch fabric is processed by relax
stretch technique starting from day one of this new discovery.
C&C
C&C is the process of color coating on fabric. As it is possible to stone this coating,
different effects can be obtained. The fabric softness is slightly different than that of
similar fabrics however this difference helps ease of stoning process. After stone
washing, standard fabric softness is obtained.
Oxi-coat
Oxi-Coating is a method of denim fabric coating without any effect on the denim
softness. Some of the differences are the fact that the coating penetrates deeper on the
fabric and that the standard fabric softness can be obtained. As hand-stoning process is
easier on this fabric, it is possible to obtain different surface effects. Current oxi-coating
colors are black and navy blue but additional colors are being planned for upcoming
seasons. Oxi-coating can be applied to any type of fabric without any problems.
However, best performance is obtained with fabric w/ heavy slub structure.

Back coating
This is the color coating on the back face of the fabric. It can be applied to any
construction with any color. By stone washing, due to the stoning on the coating on the
back face, stone-effect is obtained. The major difference of this coating is that the
coating is not visible from the front face although the coating has penetrated into the
fabric from behind. To achieve this special chemicals are used. This fabric has higher
quality over other cheaper products in the market.
Overcoat
Overcoat in an overdye process that is achieved with dyes durable to whitening process.
As the whole fabric is dyed with this method, special effects are obtained.
Spectra overdye
Overdye denim has always been an important aspect. Although classic overdye has not
been part of fashion products today, it is estimated that modern overdye look will gain
popularity. Our spectra overdye denim is the modern overdye fabric. Advantages are
strong fabric finishing, ability to be stone-processed at anytime in the fabric process as
well as ease in sawing. These are not possible with classic overdye fabrics. Spectra
overdye can be applied to any fabric that is 10 oz and above with color and color-
combination varieties. One can observe tremendous effects just by changing the
overdye color on a specific contruction.
Matrix
Indigo is blue in color and to dye with indigo, indigo need to be used along with certain
chemicals. After this chemical process, blue indigo changes to yellowish green color.
And when this dye is oxidized with air, the color turns back to blue. Indigo is turned to
yellowish-green color during finalization process by applying Matrix procedure adding
additional indigo but controlling oxidization process. The result is a tremendous new
color and appearance. As all the chemicals used in this process are among the common
chemicals in the plant, there is no negative effect on human health.
Fabric softness and fabric surface properties obtained by this process are so great that
getting tremendous effects by hand-stoning is very easy. Having indigo blue and
yellowish-green color is visible at the same time, various fabric surfaces are formed.

Just by rinse washing and stoning, very popular products are sold in the market.
As the matrix process is a lo t more complicated than any other process, it is quite
possible to have a large number of tire counts.
Redox
As well known, applying resin dip to threaded fabric and washing afterwards has been
used by a lot of the denim producers and great success has been obtained. However, due
to challenges in resin dip use and the strength reducing effect of resin on finish product
has been disadvantageous in addition to increase in total production cost. We manage to
ontain similar to resin-dip effect described above in our Redox-finish fabric without
causing reduction in fabric strength. The Redox fabric is tremendous especially in thin
and stretch denim fabrics. Another advantage to Redox fabric is that sanding on this
fabric is a lot cleaner and smoother. In addition, sanding process becomes a lot easier.
In bottom dyed types, as indigo leaves stones spots easier, different effect can be
obtained due to clarity in appearance due to these stoned spots.
Stretch redox
In addition to all the advantages described above for Redox, stretch redox has additional
advantages. To make resin applications durable, the fabric needs to be ovened at high
temperatures. This ovening process ruduced elacticity which is undesired. In stretch
redox finishing, as ovening and high temperatures applications are not involved, there is
no loss in elasticity while the same resin effects are obtained. Stretch fabric has some
disadvantages in construction structure by nature. Stretch redox eliminates these
disadvantages allowing resin effect appearances.
Yarn terminalogy
Flame look
By contructing thin and thick layers on thread, slub-appearanced-yarn is formed. In a
normal thread there are 150 to 1000 slubs in every 100 km whereas in our Flame group
there are 7000 to 10,000 slubs in every 100 km. Having different thickness on the fabric
surface produces flame-like appearances. This kind of effects are called “flame look”
Negative slub
In denim fabric, when slub yarn is used, there is darker slub effect caused by thicker

spots on the final product. In new yarn with negative slub, different than standard slub,
thinner spots are obtained in the vertical direction on fabric. The resulting effect is
brighter slub effect. We call this effect the Negative Slub effect.
3D slub
When yarn with thick and thin structural compositin is, during weaving and other
processes thicker and thinner spots are formed. The final product has a heavier and
thicker appearance although the actual fabric has not increased in terms of total fabric
mass. We call this type of fabric as 3D slub fabric when yarn with above described
characteristic is used.
T400
In Lcyra-whitening washing, fabric loses it stretch characteristic and its elasticity. In
addition, recovery characteristic is lost as well. There are usually problems in
whitening-washing of denim fabirc. A lot of firms have been working on solving this
problem. One of the yarns developed to address these issues is T400 yarn that is 100%
polyester. In this yarn, there are two heat-resistant components and because of these
components the fabric gains elasticity. In addition to very acceptable values of gained
elasticity, recovery characteristic is gained back. The only disadvantage is that the
fabric is bright due to polyester composition.

Tài liệu bạn tìm kiếm đã sẵn sàng tải về

Tải bản đầy đủ ngay
×