Canary Islands Eyewitness Travel

eyewitness travel guides
ma
p
s
canary
be
ac
he
s
s
port
w
ildlif
e
t
our
s
mount
The Guides that show you what others only tell you
Santa Cruz
Sa
S
de la Palma
d
an Sebasti
Sa
S
S
á
n
de la Gomera

dd
anta Cruz
an
San
S
S
de Tenerife
d
LA PA
AL
ALMA
AL
HIERRO
H
L H
EL
EL
LA GOM
ME
ERA
E
T
ENERIF
E
The Canary Islands Area by Area
L
A
G
O
MER

A
Pages
122
–
131
E
L
H
IERR
O
P
a
g
es
132
–
139
T
ENERIFE
P
ages 9
6
–12
1
L
A
P
AL
M
A

Pages 140–151
s Palmas
Las
L
L
e Gran Canaria
e
de
d
d
d
A
r
u
c
a
s
Maspalomas
Ma
uerto del Rosario
Pue
P
PP
Arrecife
re
Arre
CANARIA
C
GRAN
FUERTEVE

EN
NTURA
N
LANZ
NZA
ZAROTE
ZA
O
ISLA DE ALEGRANZA
ZA
ISLA DE MONTAπA CLARA
A
ISLA GRACIOSA
A
ISLA DE LOS
I
LOBOS
0

km
0
Mi
l
es
50
5
0
L
ANZAROT
E

P
ages 80–9
5
F
UER
T
EVE
NT
UR
A
P
a
g
es 66–79
G
R
A
N
C
AN
ARIA
Pa
g
es 40–6
5

E
YEWIT
N
ESS TRAVEL GUIDE

S
c
a
n
a
r
y
is
land
s
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES
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ain contri
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IOT
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ASZKIEWICZ
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NN
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ARY
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ASZKIEWICZ
P
P
ca
n
a
ry
island
s
Ma
d
onna from a c
h
urc
h
fa
˜
a
d
e a
t
Santia
g
o del Teide
Children at the carnival in Las
Palmas de Gran Canari
a

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HE
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R
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ND
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T
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OUG
HTH
E
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EAR
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V
iewing point by Los Roques at Teide Nationa
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EN
T
S
H
O
W
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U
S
E
T
HI
S
G
UIDE
6
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Fa˜ade of the
p
arish church i
n
V
e
g
a del Río de Palm
a
T
HE
H

I
STO
RY
O
F
T
HE
C
ANAR
Y
I
SLANDS
2
8
T
HE
C
A
N
A
RY
I
S
LANDS
A
R
EA B
Y
A
R

EA
T
HE
C
A
NAR
Y
I
SLANDS
AT A
G
L
A
NC
E
3
8
G
RAN
C
A
NARI
A
40
F
UER
T
EVE
NT
URA

66
L
ANZAROTE
L
L
80
T
ENERIFE
9
6
L
A
L
L
G
O
MER
A
122
E
L
H
IERR
O
132
L
A
L
L
P

A
LM
A
P
P
1
4
0
G
o
l
den sandy beach near Corra
l
ejo, on Fuerteventura
W
H
ERE
TO
W
W
S
T
AY
15
4

W
H
ERE T
O

W
W
E
AT
E
E
16
4
S
H
OPPING ON THE
C
A
N
A
R
Y
I
SL
A
ND
S
176
E
N
T
ER
T
AINMEN
T

ON
T
H
E
C
ANARY
CC
I
S
LANDS
178
O
UT
D
OOR
A
C
T
IVI
T
IE
S
1
80
C
eramic cand
l
eho
l
der from

a
f
actor
y
in La Orotava
Morena
f
rita
–

a
popu
l
a
r
l
oca
l
dish
T
RAV
ELLER
S
’
N
E
ED
S
M
AP OF

M
M
F
ERRY
R
OUTES
R
R
I
n
s
id
e
back

c
ove
r
S
U
R
V
I
VA
L
G
U
I
DE
P

R
A
C
TI
C
A
L
I
N
FORMATIO
N
1
86
T
RAV
E
L
I
N
FORMATIO
N
1
9
4
G
ENER
AL
I
NDEX
198

P
HRAS
E
B
OO
K
20
7
H
OW
T
O

US
E THI
S

GU
ID
E
6
h
istor
y
. In
d
ivi
d
ua
l

sections
d
escri
b
e t
he
m
a
in
h
i
sto
ri
c

s
i
tes

a
n
d

sta
r
att
r
act
i
o

n
s

o
n
e
ach of the archi
p
elago’s seven inhabited
islands Help with accommodation
T
HIS GUIDE WILL HELP
you to get t
h
e
m
ost out of
y
our visit to the Canar
y
Is
l
an
d
s. It provi
d
es recommen-
dations on places to visit as well as
H
O

W
TO
U
S
E THI
S
G
U
ID
E
Covering an area of 2,35
4
sq
k
m
(
908 sq mi
l
es
),
Tenerife is the lar
g
est o
f
the archi
p
elago’s islands
.
S
ituated

b
etween La Gomer
a
a
n
d
Gran Canaria
,
300
km
(186 miles) from Africa, it
h
as a
b
out 700,000 in
h
a
b
itants
.
The northern areas are th
e
most densely populated, in
p
articular around Santa Cru
z
– t
h
e is
l

an
d
an
d
provincia
l
capita
l
.
Pico
d
e
l
Tei
d
e
d
ivi
d
es t
h
e is
l
an
d
into two
d
istinct c
l
imate zones

.
S
heltered by the crater, th
e
n
orthwestern area is humid
,
covere
d
in lush tropical vegetation, an
d
supports evergreen vine
y
ar
d
s. T
he
sout
h
ern part is
h
ot, roc
ky
an
d
ari
d.
Because of this, Tenerife, like Gra
n
Canaria

,
is often referred to as
a
“miniature continent”
.
B
y

f
ar t
h
e most important e
l
emen
t
of
t
h
e is
l
an
d
’s econom
y
is tourism
.
I
ts
b
e

g
innin
g
s
g
o
b
ac
k
to
t
he late 19th century whe
n
the first tourists arrived i
n
search of blue skies
,
sun an
d
clea
n
a
ir
.
T
he

f
ir
st

hotel
–
the
Gran
d
Hote
l
Taoro in P
u
ert
o
d
e
l
a Cruz – was
b
ui
l
t in 18
92
and was then one of th
e
largest hotels in S
p
ain
.
H
owever
,

the real boom i
n
tourism
b
egan in t
h
e
l
ate
19
6
0s. At first, tourists came mainl
y
t
o the fertile, northern re
g
ion of th
e
i
sland. Soon
,
however
,
touris
m
r
eached the south and, before lon
g,
i
ts rock

y
shores were covered wit
h
man
y
truc
k
-
l
oa
d
s o
f
san
d
importe
d
f
rom t
h
e Sa
h
ara. Investment wa
s
s
te
pp
e
d
u

p
wit
h
t
h
e a
dd
ition o
f
s
mart hotels and a dash of greenery
.
T
he gamble paid off and today most
of the visitors to Tenerife
p
refer th
e
s
outhern resorts, such as Pla
y
a de la
s
Am
é
ri
cas

a
n

d
L
os

C
ri
st
i
a
n
os.
T
ENERIFE
I
N
THE LA
N
GUAGE O
F
t
h
e Guanc
h
es t
h
e name Teneri
f
e meant “w
h
it

e
m
ountain”. T
h
is re
f
erre
d
to t
h
e
l
oomin
g
Pico
d
e
l
Tei
d
e – S
p
ain’
s
ta
ll
est
p
ea
k

. T
h
e 3,718-m
(
12,195-
f
t
)
vo
l
cano is at t
h
e
h
eart o
f
t
h
e
is
l
an
d
an
d

f
orms
p
art o

f
t
h
e nationa
l

p
ar
k
, attractin
g
man
y
th
ousan
d
s o
f
visitors ever
y

y
ear. De
p
en
d
in
g
on t
h

e season, its summi
t
is enve
l
o
p
e
d
in c
l
ou
d
s, su
lph
ur or a
g
oo
d

d
ustin
g
o
f
snow.
CANA
RY I
S
L
ANDS

A
RE
A

B
Y
A
RE
A
97
B
alcon
y
adorning
a
h
ouse in La
O
rotav
a
k
g
g
4
3
2
5
6
7

1
o
9
8
i
0
u
w
e
t
r
y
69
6
E
d
irect ai
r
e
, Gra
n
f
e, an
d
fe

to

the
e

r
e

a
r
e

also
n
d Spanis
h
u
mber o
f
R
egular ferry
o

d
e
l
e

(
Lanzarote
)
G
ran Canaria
,
P

laya Blanca
of
oi
l
run
s
o
Las Pa
l
mas
h
e loca
l
C
asa de Santa
ATLANTIC OCEAN
S
ANTA CRU
Z
DE TENERIFE
E
x
p
loring in Triana
T
o t
h
e nort
h
o

f
t
h
e motorwa
y
that

e
n
closes

the

a
r
ea

of
L
a
V
e
g
ueta lies Triana – th
e
c
ommercial district of town
,
m
ar

k
e
d
to t
h
e nort
h

b
y
B
rav
o
M
urillo street a
l
ong w
h
ic
h
runs the old cit
y
wall. The
street leads to the r
u
ins of the
old

castle
– Castillo de Mat

a
.
Th
e centre o
f
t
h
is regu
l
ar
ly
s
h
ape
d
area is cut across
by
the Bo
u
levard
C
a
ll
e Ma
y
o
r
de
Tri
a

n
a
. The
g
round floors
of
its Mo
d
ernist
h
ouses are
o
ccupie
d

by
s
h
ops. Evi
d
ence
o
f blood
y
battles fought wit
h
p
irates can be seen in
S
a

n
F
rancisco C
h
urc
h
,

d
estroye
d
d
uring an attac
k

by
Dutc
h
pirates, led b
y
Peter van der
D
oes
,
in 1599 and
su
b
sequent
l
y restore

d
in t
h
e
1
7t
h
centur
y
. Opposite t
he
ch
urc
h
stan
d
s t
h
e
b
ust o
f
Christopher Columbus
.
Unveiled in 1892
,
this is one
of
many
l

an
d
mar
k
s sym
b
o
l
iz-
i
ng t
h
e town’s
l
in
k
s wit
h
grea
t
geographic discoveries
.
49
LA
S
PALMA
S
DE
G
RA

N

C
A
N
ARI
A
N
É
STOR
M
A
RT
Í
N
F
ERNÁNDEZ DE LA
T
O
RRE
Néstor Martín Fernández de la Torre (1887–1938) was one
of the most original artists to come from the Canary
Islands. Born in Las Palmas, he
studied in Paris where he
became familiar with the work
of
Pre-Rap
h
ae
l

ite, S
y
m
b
o
l
ist
a
nd Secessionist artists. In 1910,
h
e re
p
resented S
p
ain in the
Wor
ld
Ex
h
i
b
ition in Brusse
l
s.
H
e pro
d
uce
d
paintings, stage

d
esigns, theatre and opera
c
ostumes and interior desi
g
ns,
b
ut was
k
nown principa
ll
y
f
o
r
h
is murals. In 1934, he settle
d
p
ermanentl
y
in Gran Canaria
,
a
nd devoted the last years of
h
is life to develo
p
ing and
p

u
bl
icizing Canar
y
art
f
orms.
Painting by Néstor in Museo
N
ésto
r

(
see
p
50
)
E
x
pl
oring La Veguet
a
L
a Vegueta, t
h
e o
ld
est
d
istric

t
of Las Palmas, consists of a
labyrinth of narrow streets,
lined with historic ho
u
ses
wit
h
woo
d
en
b
a
l
conies an
d
b
eauti
f
u
l
patios. Equa
lly
ch
arming are t
h
e o
ld
town
squares, such as

Pla
z
a

de
S
anto Domingo
,
with S
t
D
ominic C
h
urc
h

d
ating
f
ro
m
t
h
e ear
ly
18t
h
centur
y
. A

l
so
noteworth
y
is the Baroque
c
hurch of
S
an Francisco
d
e Borj
a
(
1
6
44) formerly
b
e
l
onging to t
h
e Augustine
m
onks and now serving as
a
law co
u
rt.
Ri
g

ht at the ed
g
e of the
d
istrict are
l
arge mar
k
et
h
a
ll
s
se
ll
ing a variet
y
o
f
goo
d
s,
i
ncludin
g
fruit, ve
g
etables
,
fish

,
meat and local cheeses
,
as

well

as

local

ha
n
d
i
c
r
afts.

E

M
useo Canari
o
C/
Dr Verneau
,
2.
§
928 336 8

00
.
#
1
0am–8pm Mon–Fri; 10am–2pm
S
at–
Su
n.
&
∑
www.ste
p
.es/museo-canario
The Canary Islands’ Museum
was opened in 1879. A refur-
b
is
h
ment carrie
d
out in t
he
mid-1980s has transformed it
into a modern establishment.
The collection includes
such archaeological finds
as statuettes of gods,
pottery, jewellery
a

n
d

tools

of

the
Guanches, as well
as skulls, skeletons
and mummies. The
displays, which are
diverse, also
include
models

of
historic houses. Among the
star attractions are copies of
the paintings discovered in
F
a
˜
ade of the cathedra
l
of Santa An
a

R
C

atedral de Santa An
a
P
la
z
a
S
a
n
ta
An
a
.
The building of the cathedral
began in 1497 and took 400
years to complete. Th
e
lengthy gestation affected
both its architectural form
and interior furnishings.
The Neo-Classical fa˜ade
hides Gothic vaults resting on
slender columns, altar retables,
Baroque pulpits and sculp-
tures by José Luján Pérez.
The crypt contains the tomb
of José de Viera y Clavijo,
Canary traveller, historian of
the Enlightenment period and
the author of

Noticias

de

la
Historia General de Canarias
.
Another chapel is the resting
place of diplomat Fernando
de León y Castillo
(
see
p
65
)
.
A

l
i
f
t in t
h
e sout
h
tower
w
h
is
k

s visitors to t
h
e viewin
g
terrace, which offers fine views
of the town and harbour.
E

C
entro
C
anario de Arte
Moderno (CCAM
)
Los Balcones
,
8–10.
§
9
28 311 824.
#
10am–5pm
M
on–Fr
i
; 10am–2pm Sat–Sun
.
&
CCAM or
g

anizes exhibitions,
mainly of avant-garde art. I
t
also

has
i
ts

ow
n
collect
i
o
n
of
wor
k
s
by
artists in
fl
uentia
l
in
shaping 20th-century Canary
art. CAAM
p
rovides a venue
f

or aca
d
emic symposia on t
h
e
su
bj
ect o
f
mo
d
ern art an
d

h
as
an extensive librar
y
, includin
g
v
ideos. In stark contrast t
o
t
h
e 18t
h
-century
f
a˜a

d
e o
f
t
h
is
f
ormer
h
ote
l
, t
h
e mo
d
ern
interior,
d
esigne
d

by
Francisc
o
Sainz de Oiza and Martín
Chirino, is light and airy.
E

M
u

seo Diocesano
d
e Arte
S
acro
C
/Espíritu Santo, 20.
§
9
2
8

3
14
989
.
#
10am–4:30
p
m Mon– Fri;
1
0am–1:30pm Sat.
&
Opened in 1984, thi
s
mu
se
u
m of sacred
a

rt adjoins the
cathed
r
al.
I
t

has
a

collect
i
o
n
of
S
panish sculpture and some
n
oteworthy paintings,
inc
l
u
d
ing wor
k
s
b
y o
ld

Dutc
h
masters.
Cueva Pintada de Gáldar, as
–

te
rr
acotta
“stamps” used for printing
g
eometric patterns on clothes
.
Ceramic vessel from
M
useo
C
anari
o
Patio of Casa Museo Pérez Galdós in Triana
,
with the writer’s statue
F
T
eatro Pérez Ga
l
dós
C/Lent
i
n

i,
1
.
§
9
28 322 008.
I
n t
h
e sout
h
o
f
Triana, a
l
most
o
pposite Mercado Público
,
stands a theatre named afte
r
the res
p
ected writer Benito
Pérez Galdós (1843–1920)
.
B
ui
l
t in 1919, t

h
is structure
i
s the work of Mi
g
uel Martín
F
ernández de la Torre. The
op
u
l
ent interior
d
ecoration
s
a
nd the auditorium for 1,400
spectators were designed b
y
his brother
,
Néstor Martín
F
ernán
d
ez
d
e
l
a Torre. To

d
ay
t
h
is is t
h
e
b
est t
h
eatre in La
s
Palmas and one of the
b
est i
n
the Canary Islands.
Tiled café in the Modernist kiosk in Par
q
ue San Telmo
E

C
asa Museo Pérez
G
a
l
dós
C/
Cano, 6

.
§
9
2
8

366

9
7
6
.
`
9
28 373 734.
#
9am–1
p
m,
4–8pm Mon–Fri; 9am–3pm Sat.
T
h
e M
u
se
u
m o
f
Benito Pérez
Galdós, the most distin-

g
uished writer from the
C
anary Is
l
an
d
s, occupies t
he
h
ouse in w
h
ic
h

h
e was
b
orn
and where he lived
u
nti
l
1862. This five-storey buildin
g
h
as a sma
ll

p

atio a
d
orne
d
wit
h
a statue o
f
t
h
e writer
.
T
h
e museum, w
h
ic
h
opene
d
in 1964, still has the ori
g
ina
l
Y
Parque San Telm
o
Sa
n T
el

m
o
P
a
r
k
i
s
r
eached
via the Ca
ll
e Ma
y
or Triana
P
assa
g
e. At the ed
g
e of th
e
p
ar
k
stan
d
s t
h
e sma

ll
, 17t
h
-
c
en
t
ur
y
San Telmo Chapel
,
d
evote
d
to t
h
is patron saint o
f
f
ishermen. On the opposite
s
ide is a Modernist
k
i
os
k
,
b
ui
l

t in 1923 an
d

d
ecorate
d
w
it
h
ceramic ti
l
es. Stan
d
ing
on the side of the park is th
e
Go
b
ierno Mi
l
ita
r
b
uildin
g
w
here, on 18 July 193
6,
Ge
n

e
r
al
Fr
a
n
co

decla
r
ed

h
i
s
opposition to the Republica
n
g
overnment, si
g
nallin
g
the
s
tart of the S
p
anish Civil War.
P

G

a
b
inete Literario
Plaza Cairasco
.
Th
is
b
ui
ld
ing, w
h
ic
h
was
r
econstr
u
cted in th
e
M
odernist style, was built in
1842 as a theatre. In 18
9
4 i
t
was turne
d
into a c
l

u
b
. No
w
it
h
ouses, among ot
h
er t
h
ings
,
a library and a restaurant.
interior décor. It contains
objects associated with the
writer’s
l
i
f
e
,
as we
ll
as
ph
otograp
h
s o
f
man

y
actors
w
h
o appeare
d
in
h
is p
l
a
y
s
.
h
N
n
h
n
N
h
n
n
h
h
n
A Visitors’ Checklist
provides
H
OW

T
O USE
T
HIS GUID
E
7
P

C
alle
Q
uintan
a
T
he street leads to P
u
nta del
V
iento, a terrace
p
oised on
t
h
e e
dg
e o
f
t
h
e ocean an

d
aff
or
d
ing a
f
ine view over t
he
roc
ky
coast an
d
La
g
o
M
a
r
t
i
á
n
ez
.
Branchin
g
off
eastwards is Ca
ll
e de San

T
elmo, a seasi
d
e
p
romena
de
w
i
th

sto
n
e

seats

a
n
d
numerous bars. The
M
onopo
l
Hotel
–
one of the oldest
h
ote
l

s in Puerto
d
e
l
a Cruz
–
stan
d
s in Ca
ll
e
Q
uintana.
P

Pl
aza de Europa
Hu
gg
in
g
the shoreline, this
sq
uare was laid out in 1992,
b
ut is
b
ase
d
on 18t

h
- an
d
19t
h
-centur
y
European-st
yl
e
t
own planning. Its feature
s
incl
u
de the
tow
n h
all
(
1973
)
a
n
d

the
C
asa de Miranda
(

1730
)
, a
f
ine o
ld
town
h
ouse, w
h
ic
h
now
accommodates a resta
u
ran
t
sp
ecializing in local fare. The
t
ourist in
f
ormation
b
ureau is
a
l
so in t
h
is square

.
P

P
uerto
P
es
q
uer
o
The history of thi
s
p
ictures
q
ue
f
is
h
ing
h
ar
b
our,
s
ituate
d
on a sma
ll
, ston

y
beach,
g
oes back to the 18th
P
P
l
aza de
l

C
harco
d
e
l
os Camerones
Many o
f
t
h
e town’s mos
t
h
istoric
b
ui
ld
ings are
f
oun

d

i
n Plaza del Charco, a square
s
haded by palm and laurel
t
rees, w
h
ic
h
were
b
rou
gh
t
in 18
5
2
f
rom Cu
b
a.
T
h
e centre is
o
ccupied by a stag
e
used for musica

l
c
oncerts. Many tour
i
sts
e
n
j
o
y
watc
h
ing c
h
es
s
g
ames pla
y
ed wit
h
g
i
ant
pi
eces on a
c
h
ess
b

oar
d
t
h
at
h
a
s
b
een constructe
d
o
f
p
aving stones.
V
iew of the entrance to Puerto Pes
q
uero fishing harbour
1
13
CA
N
A
RY I
S
L
A
N
DS

A
RE
A

B
Y
A
RE
A
112
Pla
y
a Jardín, a
p
o
p
ular beach with tourist
s
L
ush banana plantations south
o
f
Parque Taoro
H
ECKLIST
P
la
z
a

d
e Europa, 922 386 000.
_
G
ra
n
Poder de Díos
(
15 Jul
).
Portal of the I
g
lesia de Nuestra
S
eñora de la Peña de Francia
hh
N
N
nn
1
2
6
7
5
4
3
P

C
asa de

l
a Rea
l
Ad
u
ana
C
alle de las Lonjas.
§
9
22 378 1
0
3
.
#

M
on–Sat
.
This was
b
uilt in 1
6
20
f
or
J
uan Antoni
o
Lutzardo de Franch

a
an
d
is t
h
e o
ld
est
h
ous
e
in
tow
n
.
F
oll
owing t
h
e
destr
u
ction of Garachic
o
it became the seat of
th
e
g
overnor an
d

f
rom 170
6
to 18
33
s
erve
d
as t
h
e c
u
stom
s
h
ouse. The buildin
g
was restored in the 1
9
70s an
d
n
ow
h
ouses a s
h
o
p
se
ll

in
g
o
ld

fu
rnit
u
re an
d

h
an
d
icra
f
ts.
R

I
gl
esia de San Francisco
C
/
San Juan
.
Th
e C
hu
rc

h
o
f
St Francis i
s
b
uilt around the Ermita de
San Juan, which was
c
onstructe
d
in 15
99
. One o
f
th
e o
ld
est
b
ui
ld
ings in Puert
o
d
e
l
a Cruz, it is
d
ecorate

d
w
ith sculptures and paintings,
f
rom the 16th century up to
mode
rn
t
im
es.

T
o
d
a
y
, t
h
is mo
d
est
b
ui
ld
ing
s
erves as an ec
u
menical
c

hurch
,
and holds services for
all

Ch
ri
st
i
a
n
de
n
o
min
at
i
o
n
s
in
the

tow
n
.
c
entur
y
, w

h
en t
h
e town
w
as the main exporter of the
i
sland’s agricultural
p
roduce.
T
o
d
ay you can
b
uy
f
res
hl
y
c
aug
h
t
f
is
h

d
irect

f
rom t
h
e
f
ishermen
.
E

Museo Ar
q
ueo
l
ógic
o
C
/
Lomo
,
4.
§

9
22 371 465.
#
10am–1pm & 5–9pm Tue–Sat
,
10am–1pm Sun
.
&

T
his small museum, o
p
ene
d
i
n 1991
,
is devoted to the
h
istor
y
an
d
cu
l
tura
l

h
eritage
of
t
h
e Canar
y
Is
l
an
d

s. It
s
e
xhibits include a collectio
n
+

Castillo de San Felip
e
T
h
is sma
ll
17t
h
-centur
y

f
or
t
once
g
uarded the harbour
e
ntrance a
g
ainst attacks fro
m
p

irates an
d
t
h
e s
h
i
p
s o
f
S
p
ain’s
two
m
a
ri
t
im
e
ri
vals:
Fr
a
n
ce
and England. Now the fort,
s
ituated in the western
p

art of
t
own
,
o
f
ten serves as a venue
f
or temporar
y
ex
h
i
b
itions.
To t
h
e west o
f
t
h
e
f
ort is t
he
P
l
a
y
a Jardín

–
the town’s
l
on
g
est beach.
S
La
g
o Marti
á
nez
P
la
y
a Martiánez
.
§

922

38
5
9
55.
#
1
0am–6pm daily
.
¢

M
ay.
&
Th
is arti
f
icia
l

l
agoon
,
d
esigne
d

by
César Manrique,
w
as built in 1969. Conjuring
up
a subtro
p
ical
p
aradise, it
h
as
l

us
h

pl
ants an
d
w
h
it
e
san
d
. It consists o
f
a comp
l
ex
o
f seawater swimming pool
s
a
nd
g
ur
g
lin
g
fountains, which
c
ontrast wit

h
t
h
e surroun
d
in
g
lava

f
i
eld.
J
ar
d
ín Botánico
C/Retama, 2
.
§
9
22 383 572.
#
9am–7pm
d
ai
ly
.
&
The local botanical
g

arden is
o
n
e

o
f
t
h
e

o
l
dest
in
t
h
e
w
or
ld
. It was esta
bl
is
h
e
d
i
n
1

788 at t
h
e request o
f
Car
l
os
III of Spain, by Alonso d
e
N
ova Gim
ó
n.
T
o
d
ay, t
h
e
l
us
h
gar
d
en i
s
c
ramme
d
wit

h
over 1,000
s
pecies of plants and trees
f
rom the Canary Islands,
as

well

as

flo
r
a

f
r
o
m
all

ove
r
the

wo
r
ld.
Puerto de la Cruz

R
ISING UP FROM
t
h
e sea
f
ront, Puerto
d
e
l
a Cruz was
the principal port of the island after the destruction
of Garachico. By the late 19th century, it had already
become a resort and a popular destination for
upmar
k
et Britis
h
visitors an
d
remains so to t
h
is
d
a
y.
Th
e
h
ote

l
s tower a
b
ove
b
anana
pl
antations, s
h
o
pp
in
g
a
rca
d
es, casinos, restaurants, ca
f
és an
d
ni
gh
tc
l
u
b
s, as
we
ll
as numerous

h
istoric sites. An arti
f
icia
l

l
a
g
oon an
d
warm, c
l
ear water attracts over 100,000 visitors eac
h
y
ear to t
h
e area
.
R
Igl
esia de Nuestra Señor
a
de

la
P
e
ñ

a

de
Fr
a
n
c
i
a
T
he tri
p
le-naved cathedral
was built in 1
6
84–
9
7. Its tall
towe
r
was

added
in
the

late
19th centur
y.
In the dark interior of th

e
ch
urc
h
t
h
e eye is
d
rawn t
o
B
aroque scu
l
ptures – t
h
e wor
k
of
t
h
e
l
oca
l
artist Fernan
d
o
E
stévez, and José Luján Pérez,
a

well-known island artist.
N
o
l
ess
p
recious are t
h
e
p
aintings
by
Luís
d
e
l
a Cruz. T
he
c
athedral’s or
g
an was brou
g
ht
from London in 1
8
1
4.
A
b

ust o
f
Augustín
de
B
étancourt (1758–1824)
,
founder of the Engineerin
g
Colle
g
e in Madrid, stands i
n
f
ront o
f
t
h
e c
h
urc
h.
Tow
n
c
r
est

at
P

l
aza de Euro
pa
o
f
Gaunc
h
e pro
d
ucts an
d
t
he
m
u
mmified remains of the
island’s ori
g
inal inhabitants.
Y
P
arque
T
aor
o
This majestic park is a
n
e
nchanting s
p

ot and a good
pl
ace to esca
p
e t
h
e
b
ust
l
e o
f
4
M
a
j
or Town
s
A
t least two
p
a
g
es are devoted to
e
ach ma
j
or town, with detailed descrip
-
tions

o
f
historic remains and loca
l
c
uriosities that are worth seein
g.
L
oro
P
arque
F
RO
M
T
HE DAY
i
t o
p
ened in 1972, this tro
p
ical
plant complex has been hugely popular and
has been visited by over 11 million tourists.
T
he huge area contains man
y
animals an
d
birds, ma

g
nificent orchids and dra
g
on trees.
It offers numerous tourist attractions, including
s

tourist

attractions,

including
shows of
p
erform
i
i
ng seals,
p
arrots an
d
d
olphins. It even
h
h
as a bat cave! The entranc
e
t
o the park leads
t

t
hrough an authenic Tha
i
v
illa
g
e. Built in 1
9
993 it consists of six buildings
w
hich were const
r
shipped in sectio
n
w
ere reassemble
d
11
5
CA
N
A
RY I
S
L
A
N
DS

A

RE
A

B
Y
A
RE
A
114
S
TAR
A
T
TRACTIO
NS
.
Dol
p
hinariu
m
.
P
enguin Hous
e
.
Sh
ar
k
Aquariu
m

HECKLIS
T
Puerto
d
e
l
a Cruz, C/San Fe
l
ipe.
8:30am–5pm daily.
&7
www.loro
p
ar
q
ue.com
Free transport b
y
tram
f
ro
m
Pla
y
a Martiánez (ever
y
20 min).
o
f Fis
h

s
i
de
o
f

f
is
h
swim in
s
m
inate
d
g
l
ass
m
more t
h
an 8
m
s
a
ll, which stand
s
u
se
.
h

e Penguin Ho
u
n
atural habitat
,
,
e
nablin
g
th
e
inhabitants
to
f
or
g
et that
they are living
.
Dolphinarium
J
a
g
uars
Two jaguars live i
n

r
econstructed volc
a

l
andsca
p
e. You ca
n
see them throu
g
h
a

series o
f
lar
g
e win
d
walkwa
y
allow
s
v
isitors to
w
atch
s
harks swimmin
g
d
irectl
y

overhead.
l
e number o
f
y
s in
i
ve out their da
y
p
ark,
fr
eedom in the
p
m
e
a o
f
3,500 s
q

m
q

y
ards).
All
igat
o
P

arrot
h
0
m
hh
-
0
-
0
-
-
-
-
m
m
m
m
nn
n
n
hh
L
f
orme
d
in t
h
e course o
f
severa

l

p
ower
f
u
l
vo
l
canic eru
p
tions, is a natura
l

f
ortress an
d
serve
d
as a re
f
u
g
e
f
or t
h
e
l
ast Bena

h
oares w
h
en t
he
S
panis
h
inva
d
e
d
in t
h
e 15t
h
ce
n
n
tur
y
. Some o
f
it
s
w
alls reach u
p
to 2,000 m (6,560 ft). Awarde
d

national park status in 195
4
, th
e
e crater has many
w
a
lk
ing trai
l
s
(
some wa
lk
s req
u
ui
h
ea
d

f
or
h
ei
gh
ts!
)
. No roa
d

s ru
n
n

t
h
e par
k
, an
d
wa
lk
ers s
h
ou
ld

m
ma
ta
k
e wit
h
t
h
em enou
gh
water a
n
n

#
9
am–6:30pm daily.
Caldera de Taburiente
ch of it un
The lush vegetation, muc
ni
mmits of t
and the bare, rugged sum
th
to lovers
shrouded in mist, appeal
o
n
atura
l
wor
k
s o
f
art
.
as
a
il
ry
La
ta
mo
a

s
,
w
s
e
st
nd

s
e.
t
o Roque de los Muchachos
T
rail
t
ing a
l
ong t
h
e
h
ig
h
est pea
k
s o
f
l
, runn
b

uriente, provi
d
es a view ove
r
ad
e Ta
b
n
ing
l
y steep wa
ll
s o
f
t
h
e crater,
e
stun
n
s
h
rou
d
e
d
wit
h

d

ense
f
og.
A
S
T
RO
N
OMICA
L
O
SERVAT
B
TO
s, the Ca
Thanks to their clear skie
an
ne of the
Islands are regarded as on
e

ervation
places for conducting obs
s
Astroph
cosmos. The International
hy
e los Mu
Observatory near Roque d
u

e presen
was opened in 1985, in the
nc
y Europ
King Juan Carlos and many
pe
es, incl
heads of state. Six telescop
lu
e, nam
the largest Anglo-Dutch on
e
uring 4
William Herschel and meas
42
e used
(165 inches) in diameter, ar
d

theref
night observations. There is
fo
on the
ban between 8pm and 9am
e

ark (on
lights while driving in the p
n
es off

year the entire island switch
i
possi
to make certain experiments
ib
T
The Herschel telescope inside the observatory
R
o
q
ue de
l
os Muchachos
Six telescopes have been
P
ico de
l
a Cru
z
T
h
is is one o
f
par
k
’s
highest peaks.
A
hll i 45
L

a Cumbrecit
a
A
g
ood as
p
hal
t
road leads t
o

La Cumbrecita
,
w
hich has a
n
in
f
ormatio
n
p
oint. This i
s

a

g
ood
p
oin

t

o
f
de
p
artur
e

f
or ex
p
lorin
g
the
p
ark.
I
NT
RODUCI
N
G
T
H
E
C
A
N
AR

Y
I
S
LA
N
D
S
P
UTT
I
N
G
T
H
E
C
A
N
AR
Y
I
S
LA
N
DS O
NT
H
E
M
A

P
1
0–
11
A
P
ORTRAIT OF TH
E
C
A
N
A
R
Y
I
S
L
A
ND
S
12–2
3
T
HE
C
A
NAR
Y
I
SLAND

S
T
HROUGH
T
HE
Y
EA
R
2
4
–2
7
T
HE
H
IS
T
O
RY
O
FTH
E
C
ANA
RY
I
SL
AN
D
S

28–3
5
k
k
g
g
g
g
g
gg
g
g
g
g
g
k
k
k
g
g
P
a
de
a
n
d
nt
Sa
an
a

C
nt
Cr
a
u
a
nt
z
a
C
e
e
f
r
d
a
n
o
i
i
La
La
P
ue
P
er
to
u
o
de

t
E
I
NTRODUCING THE CANARY ISLAND
S
1
0
C
o
l
ourfu
l
houses on the hi
ll
s of Las Pa
l
mas de
G
ran
C
anaria
k
g
g
g
k
g
k
g
g

g
g
g
g
g
g
k
k
k
k
g
L
d
d
de
n
n
an
n
an
to del Rosari
o
io
M
ui
u
u
a
S
S

O
O
P
UTTING THE CANARY ISLANDS ON THE MAP
11
F
R
ANCE
PORTUG
GA
AL
A
A
L
G
ERI
A
M
AURI
T
ANI
A
S
SA
AHARA
A
MADEIRA
A
A
W

ESTERN
E
UROPE AN
D
N
O
RT
H
Th
e Formation of t
h
e Canary Island
s
A
LONG
AA
W
I
T
HO
T
HER A
T
LAN
T
I
C
is
l
an

d
s, suc
h
as
M
a
d
eira, t
h
e Azores an
d
t
h
e Ca
p
e Ver
d
e
Is
l
an
d
s, t
h
e Canaries are o
f
vo
l
canic ori
g

in.
Th
e
y
emerge
d

f
rom t
h
e sea mi
ll
ions o
f

y
ear
s
a
g
o: Lanzarote an
d
Fuerteventura are
b
e
l
ieve
d
to be the oldest at between 16 and 20 million
y

ears o
ld
, wit
h
Gran Canaria, Teneri
f
e an
d
L
a
G
omera appearing aroun
d
8–13 mi
ll
ion
y
ear
s
ago. T
h
e remaining is
l
an
d
s are muc
h

y
ounger

.
Most o
f
t
h
e is
l
an
d
s
l
ie in t
h
e s
h
a
d
ow o
f

a
centra
l
vo
l
canic cone surroun
d
e
d

by
sma
ll
e
r
cones an
d
areas o
f
so
l
i
d
i
f
ie
d

l
ava.
I
NTRODUCING THE CANARY ISLAND
S
12
La Geria’s vine
y
ard
s
on

Lanza
r
ote
(
see
p
94)
fl
ouris
h
in t
h
e
f
erti
l
evo
l
cani
c
s
oi
l
. Semi-circ
l
es o
f
stones
p
rotect t

he
vines
f
rom t
h
e
p
revai
l
in
g
win
d
s, an
d
t
he
resu
l
ting grapes are use
d
to pro
d
uc
e

th
e am
b
er-co

l
oure
d
Ma
l
vasía wine.
N
ear E
l
Go
lf
o (see p91
)
o
n Lanzarote
i
s a crater filled with seawater. A blac
k
sand beach separates the ocean from th
e
grey
-
green waters of the lake.
Los Azu
l
e
j
os
on

G
r
an

Cana
r
ia
sh
ow t
h
e
b
eauty o
f
t
h
e mu
l
ti-
colou
r
ed

volcanic
r
ocks.
T
heir
varie
d

c
h
emica
l
compositions,
i
ncluding copper salts and iron
h
ydrites, create a stunnin
g
p
alette of colours from grey and
brown, throu
g
h ochre and red
,
t
o blue and
g
reen
.
cust
Upp
e
r
m
a
n
t
l

e
D
e
n
se
l
owe
r
m
antl
e
T
H
E
O
R
IGIN OF
T
H
E
I
SLAND
S
The Canar
y
Islands are the tips of v
o
pushed up from the floor of the Atlantic Ocean
by
the movement of the Earth’s crust. As th

e
c
rust buckled along fault lines, hot li
q
ui
d
r
ock or magma burst u
p
through the cracks
.
THE FORMATION OF THE CANARY ISLAND
S
1
3
Ma
lp
aí
s
m
eans “
b
a
dl
an
d
s” an
d
re
f

ers to t
h
is a
l
mos
t
comp
l
ete
l
y
b
arren
l
an
d
scape
o
n

Fue
r
teventu
r
a

(
see p78
)
.

On
l
y t
h
e most
d
esert-
h
ar
d
ene
d

fl
ora an
d

f
auna survive
h
ere.
E
V
OLU
T
IO
N
OF
V
O

L
CAN
I
C
I
S
L
ANDS
The islands in this archi
p
elago
a
re at various sta
g
es in their
geological evolution. Tenerife,
E
l Hierro
,
Lanzarote and La
P
alma are still volcanicall
y
a
ctive
,
with the latte
r
e
xperiencing its most recent

e
ruption in 1971.
Transform faul
t
Atlas fault
Aroun
d
L
a
R
estin
g
a on E
l
Hierro, the
f
ields
o
f
lava assum
e
f
antastic s
h
a
p
es.
Fat tongues o
f

l
ava, t
h
at resem
ble
solidified tar, are
created b
y
under-
w
ater volcani
c
eru
p
tions. As t
h
e
fl
owin
g

l
av
a
r
api
dl
y coo
l
s it

f
orms
l
arge area
s
of magma nodules
.
1
T
h
e is
l
an
d
s of
L
a
G
omera
,
El
Hierro an
d
La Pa
l
ma ar
e
rea
ll
y t

h
e tops o
f
vo
l
canoes t
h
a
t
rise from the ocean’s bed. They
c
onsist of basalt rock produce
d
b
y
solidi
f
ied lava. Below, th
e
E
arth’s crust bends under th
e
w
ei
g
ht o
f
the islands.
2
Wh

en t
h
e magma
chamber
e
mpties
d
uring an eruption
,
t
h
e top o
f
t
h
e cone co
ll
apses
d
ownwar
d
s. T
h
is creates a crater
,
known as a caldera – such as
the Caldera de Taburiente on
L
a Palma. This stage of a
n

island’s evolution is marked b
y
a
bundant
f
lows o
f
lava
.
3
W
h
en t
h
e eru
p
tio
n
has
e
n
d
e
d
, t
h
e vo
l
cano
b

egins t
o
e
ro
d
e. T
h
e mountains o
f
Gra
n
Canaria are in t
h
e ear
l
y stages
o
f erosion, while Fuerteventura’
s
v
olcanic chambers, with thei
r
s
olidified lava, are typical of
a
more advanced sta
g
e o
f
evolution

.
Fiss
u
re
s
Fee
d
er
dyk
e
Basalt lav
a
f
low
M
a
g
m
a
c
hambe
r
Mantle
C
rus
t
C
a
l
dera

S
hallow ma
g
m
a
c
h
am
b
er
Ex
p
osed so
l
idifie
d
m
a
g
ma chambe
r
S
ea
l
eve
l
T
HE FLORA OF TH
E
C

anar
y
Islands is unique. L
a
G
omera, for example, is home to a rare ancient
forest that is now a UNESCO world heritage site.
More than half of the islands’ 1,800 species are
i
ndigenous, and the unusual character of these
exceptional plants has long attracted the attention
of botanists. They are the relics of the old Mediterranean
flora, which became extinct throughout the region
because of changes in climate. The local flora that
r
emains has survived bec
a
r
elatively humid climate
o
with a variety of colourfu
l
I
NTRODUCING THE CANARY ISLAND
S
1
4
Flora of t
h
e Canary Island

s
T
HE
D
RAGO
N
T
REE
O
ne of the most unusual
p
lants
in the Canaries, the dragon
t
r
ee

(
Dracaena draco
)
e
rup
t
s
into numerous, swo
ll
en
b
ranc
h

es t
h
at en
d
in tu
f
ts o
f
spi
ky

l
eaves. Its re
d
sap
(k
nown as
d
ra
g
on’s
bl
oo
d)
an
d
its
f
ruit were use
d

as
f
ar
b
ac
k
as Roman times to ma
k
e a
medicinal
p
owder, and it was used t
o
p
roduce
p
igments,
p
aints and varnishes.
O
ne s
p
ecimen at Icod de los Vinos, on
T
enerife
,
known as
Drago Milenario
,
o

o
is said to be 1,000
y
ears old.
The basalt slopes o
f
volcanoes
a
conducive to plant growth. The few species
f
oun
d

h
ere are o
f
ten in
d
i
g
enous
pl
ants, w
h
ic
h
h
ave evo
l
ve

d
to
b
e a
bl
e to retain
w
ater.
Balsamic spurg
e
g
rows i
n
semi-desert areas. Its
j
uice is
sometimes made into chewin
g
g
um, but it is also valued as an
o
rnamental
p
lant
.
C
anary pa
lm
(
P

h
oenix canarie
n
anot
h
er in
d
igenous species, in
ha
s
cru
bl
an
d
s an
d
semi-
d
esert regi
o
I
t
b
ears e
d
i
bl
e
f
ruit,

b
ut is regar
d
m
ainly as an ornamental plant
.
spurge o
l
ive
h
as
si
l
very
l
eaves.
FLORA OF THE CANARY ISLAND
S
1
5
C
anary Is
l
an
d
s
h
o
lly
i

s a
n
e
vergreen shrub, and one o
f
the most commo
n
i
nhabitants o
f
the laurel
f
orests. Its bark ha
s
medicinal
p
ro
p
erties
.
C
anary samp
h
ir
e
(Ast
y
dami
a
l

atifolia
)
i
s found on the coasta
l
basalt rocks of the Canar
y
I
slands. This native genus,
w
ith its distinctive
f
lesh
y
,
g
ree
n
l
eaves
f
lowers
f
rom Decembe
r
u
ntil A
p
ril.
E

rys
i
mum scopar
i
u
m
,
a wood
y,
native shrub with lilac
P
L
A
NT
Z
ON
E
S
Coastal zone
s
, mostl
y
r
oc
ky
, are
h
ome to
pl
ants

that

can

tole
r
ate

salt

and
temperature variations.
Semi
-
dese
r
t
p
lants,
f
oun
d
a
b
ove 400 m
(
1,300
f
t
),

s
tore
w
ater
w
it
h
in t
h
eir
fl
es
hy

l
eaves an
d
sta
lk
s
.
Low

sh
r
ubs
a
re
f
oun

d
a
bove 500 m (1,
6
50
f
t)
,
particu
l
ar
l
y in areas wit
h

a

l
ow annua
l
rain
f
a
ll.
L
aure
l

f
orest

s
c
over t
he
northern slopes of th
e
i
slands, where humidity
i
s constantl
y
hi
g
h
.
Pine

woods
o
ccur a
t
u
p

to
2,000 m (6,560
f
t). Their
un
d

er
g
rowt
h
consists main
ly
o
f
s
h
a
d
e-
l
ovin
g
s
h
ru
b
s.
Ar
eas

above

2,000

m
(6

,5
6
0 ft) feature cushion
-
l
i
k
e s
h
ru
b
s. Roc
k
grass
covers t
h
e
h
ig
h
est s
l
opes.
Limonium papi
ll
atum
Th
e Under
w
ater

W
orl
d
I
NTRODUCING THE CANARY ISLAND
S
16
n
oo
k
s o
f
t
h
e sea
b
e
d
. T
h
ei
r
red shells
,
which can be as
much as 20 cm (8 in) in
l
engt
h
, are

d
ense
ly
covere
d
wit
h
spi
k
es
.
Th
e
b
rown scorpion fish’s markings and colour make
i
t difficult to spo
t
against the rocky sea floor
,
d
es
p
ite its lar
g
e size.
T
he hard s
p
ike

s
o
f
its dorsal
f
in deliver venom to it
s
p
re
y
durin
g
ni
g
ht hunts. The
f
is
h
remains still b
y
da
y.
L
ong-finned pilot whales
(bl
ac
kf
is
h)
b

e
l
on
g
to t
h
e
d
o
lph
in
f
ami
ly
. T
h
e coasta
l
gpfy
ti
ve,
b
ea
k
-
lik
e mou
th

is

f
orme
d

b
y
l
arge teet
h
fg
f
used to
g
ether
.
The blue-spotted puffer fish
is

s
o-ca
ll
e
d

d
ue to its
h
a
b
it

,
w
h
en
th
reatene
d
, o
f
in
fl
atin
g
its a
l
imen
t
c
ana
l
wit
h
air, to scare o
ff
t
h
e en
e
D
E

SPI
T
E
T
HE CANARY ISLAND
S
’

f
avoura
bl
e
p
osition on t
h
e e
d
ge o
f
t
h
e tro
p
ics, t
he
w
aters aroun
d
t
h

e is
l
an
d
s are re
l
ative
ly
co
ld
.
Th
is ex
pl
ains t
h
e re
l
ative
l
ac
k
o
f
cora
l
ree
f
s
,

wh
ic
h
wou
ld
norma
lly
occur at
s
uc
h
l
atitu
d
es. Nevert
h
e
l
ess, t
h
e sea con
d
itions are
congenia
l
to man
y
species o
f

f
is
h
, mamma
l
an
d
seawee
d
. Divers in coasta
l
an
d
o
ff
s
h
ore
w
aters wi
ll

f
in
d
a ric
h
variet
y
o

f
marine
l
i
f
e,
i
nc
l
u
d
ing severa
l
species o
f
w
h
a
l
es an
d
dolphins, shoals of small cardinal fish, huge
cardinal fish, huge
cra
b
s, co
l
our
f
u

l
parrot-
f
is
h

a
Sea

ho
r
se
numbers
a
sea-
g
rass, c
shoots b
y
th
e
Th
e
y
oun
g

h
at
c

o
ut o
f
s
p
awn t
h
at
l
ai
d

b
y t
h
e
f
ema
l
e in t
he
ma
l
e’s
b
roo
d
pouc
h
.

T
HE UNDERWATER WORLD
1
7
C
ardinal
f
ish
w
ith their scarlet bodies are
s
mall,
f
ast-movin
g

f
ish that ma
y
be see
n
mostl
y
at the entrances to underwater caves.
The male carries the s
p
awn in his mouth
.
The Moroccan octopu
s

i
s a common
s
i
g
ht in the areas o
f
rock
y
seabed tha
t
lie around the Canar
y
Islands. I
t
catc
h
es its
p
re
y
wit
h
its tentac
l
es,
wh
ic
h
are arme

d

w
it
h
suc
k
ers.
D
IVI
NG AND
S
NO
RKELLI
NG
IN
T
H
E
C
A
N
A
RIE
S
T
he Canary Islands provide ver
y
attractive divin
g

g
rounds. Here,
beginners can gain ex
p
erience,
w
hil
e
m
o
r
e

adva
n
ced

d
i
ve
r
s

ca
n
e
x
p
lore the underwater caves off

G
ran Canaria
,
La Palma and E
l
Hi
e
rr
o

a
n
d

the

co
r
al
r
eefs
n
ear
Lanzarote. T
h
e water is at it
s
c
l
earest

b
etween Novem
b
er an
d
Fe
b
ruar
y
. T
h
e water temperatur
e
of 15–20° C
(
59–
6
8° F
)
is als
o
con
d
ucive to
d
ivin
g
an
d
snor

k
e
l
-
lin
g
. However, stron
g
currents,
particularly at greater depths, can
p
resent difficulties for divers
.
Th
e conger ee
l
T
h
as a
bl
ac
k
is
h

b
o
dy
,
w

it
h
pa
l
er
b
e
ll
y,
l
arge
h
ea
d
an
d
wi
d
e
w
m
out
h
. It is active at nig
h
t,
h
i
d
ing i

n
m
c
aves an
d
crac
k
s
d
uring t
h
e
d
ay
.
y
ee
l
,
a
ted
,
s
har
p
t
e
rces
t
T

h
i
s
up
to
d
s
an
d
rocks.
T
his sma
ll
mo
llu
sc
is
the
the
Murex
Murex
T
H
EI
N
HABI
T
A
NT
SOF

T
H
E
Canary Islands are
e
nthusiastic about kee
p
ing alive their
s
trongly rooted tradition of local
handicrafts. These include embroidery,
l
ace-making, basket-weaving,
ceramics an
d
woo
d
carving. Di
ff
eren
t
i
sla
n
ds
s
p
ecia
l
ize in

p
articu
l
ar cra
f
ts: L
a
Go
m
e
r
a
i
s
k
nown
f
or its
b
as
k
etware
a
n
d
pottery t
h
at is ma
d
e wit

h
out usin
g
a
w
h
ee
l
, w
h
i
l
e Teneri
f
e is a
l
so
a
centre
f
or tra
d
itiona
l
, Guanc
h
e-st
yl
e pots, E
l

Hierro
pro
d
uces
b
eauti
f
u
lly
woven rugs an
d

b
ags an
d
t
he
town o
f
In
g
enio (see
p6
4) Gran Canaria,
p
ro
d
uces
s
ome o

f
t
h
e
b
est em
b
roi
d
er
y
in t
h
e is
l
an
d
s.
INT
RODUCI
N
G
T
HE CA
N
ARY ISLA
N
D
S
18

P
O
TTER
Y
T
HANKS
T
O
a
rc
h
aeo
l
o
g
ica
l
d
iscoveries, we now
k
now
th
at pottery was one o
f
t
he
b
est-develo
p
ed crafts of th

e
Guanches – the indi
g
enous
p
eople of the Canary
I
slands. Using local clay
,
t
he
y
made vessels of various
s
ha
p
es and sizes, which the
y
u
se
d

f
or coo
k
ing,
s
toring
f
oo

d
an
d
carr
y
ing water
.
A
l
t
h
oug
h

l
oca
lly
ma
d
e
p
otter
y
can
b
e
f
oun
d
o

n
all
t
h
e is
l
an
d
s, t
h
ere are
a

f
ew centres t
h
at pri
de
t
hemselves on their
c
eramic worksho
p
s. La
Gomera
,
Tenerife and L
a
Palma are particularly
we

ll kn
ow
n f
o
r
t
r
ad
i
t
i
o
n
a
l
p
otter
y
. Produced fro
m
d
ar
k
c
l
a
y
, wit
h
out t

h
e use
of
a potter’s w
h
ee
l
, t
h
is is
th
e most popu
l
ar st
yl
e o
f
p
otter
y
, an
d
it is regar
d
e
d
a
s a c
l
assic reinterpretation

of
G
u
anc
h
e wor
k
. Ot
h
er
i
s
l
an
d
s a
l
so ma
k
e
pieces t
h
at are
b
ased on ori
g
inal
G
uanche desi
g

ns
c
o
p
ied from
a
rchaeological finds
a
nd produced b
y
t
r
ad
i
t
i
o
n
a
l m
et
h
ods.

As

o
n
the
S

panis
h
main
l
an
d
,
t
h
ere are ti
l
es, p
l
ates
a
n
d
vases in t
he
m
u
l
ti-co
l
oure
d
sty
l
e o
f

t
he
Mooris
h
inspire
d
azu
l
e
j
os
,
for sale in pottery shops.
C
olourful displays of
pottery adorn many local
v
illage sho
p
s and most
ma
rk
ets

w
ill h
ave

at
l

east
o
ne stall selling ceramics
.
Wor
k
s
h
ops w
h
ere
y
ou ca
n
v
iew t
h
e pots
b
eing ma
d
e
al
so o
ff
er an arra
y
o
f
ware

s
t
h
at ma
k
es c
h
oosin
g

d
i
ff
icu
l
t.
Potter at wor
k
in La Orotav
a
wor
k
s
h
o
p
, Tenerif
e
Traditional embroider
y

in Betancuria Museum, Fuerteventura
E
M
B
R
O
I
D
ER
Y
P
RAC
T
ISED MAINLY
by
t
h
e
women, t
h
e s
k
i
ll
s an
d
sty
l
es o
f

Canary Is
l
an
d
s’
e
m
b
roi
d
ery are passe
d
d
own
f
rom mot
h
er to
d
au
g
hter. The craft o
f
e
mbroidery is a source of
great
p
ride in the areas tha
t
s

p
ecialize in it. Gran Canaria
i
s famous for embroider
y
,
particu
l
ar
ly
t
h
e vi
ll
ages o
f
I
ngenio (see p
6
4) an
d
Agaete
(
see p57)
,
as is La Orotava
(
see pp 108–11) on Teneri
f
e.

Origina
l
patterns,
h
an
d
-
e
m
b
roi
d
ere
d
onto si
lk
or
l
inen, are amon
g
the
most ex
q
u
i
s
i
te
souvenirs that
v

i
s
i
to
r
s

ca
n
ta
k
e
home. Richl
y
embroidered bed
l
inen, ta
bl
ec
l
ot
h
s
a
n
d
nap
k
ins are
a

mon
g
t
h
e most
popu
l
ar items. T
h
e
o
n
l
y
d
raw
b
ac
k
is
t
h
eir o
f
ten very
h
ig
h
p
rice, which is

a
reflection of the skill and time
taken by the embroiderer.
C
lothing, especially the
i
slands’ national costumes
,
is
d
ecorated with embroider
y
.
W
h
ite s
h
irts,
bl
ouses an
d
a
prons are a
ll
a
d
orne
d
wit
h

o
pen-wor
k

f
ri
ll
s t
h
at ar
e
t
h
rea
d
e
d
wit
h
ri
bb
ons
.
M
o
d
ern, somew
h
at
g

aris
h
c
opies o
f
t
h
ese c
l
ot
h
es ar
e
o
n sale in craft markets.
C
rafts of t
h
e Canary Island
s
Ceramic
ca
n
dle
h
older
O
rnamental wate
r
vesse

l
C
RAF
T
S OF
T
HE CA
N
ARY ISLA
N
D
S
19
L
AC
E
-
M
A
KIN
G
L
ACEWORK IS AMONG
LL
t
h
e
most
b
eauti

f
u
l
an
d
t
h
e
most stri
k
ing o
f
t
h
e Canary
I
s
l
an
d
s’
h
an
d
icra
f
ts. T
h
e
s

u
b
t
l
ety o
f
t
h
e
d
esigns an
d
colo
u
rs reflects the con
-
t
inuation of Euro
p
ean and
Med
i
te
rr
a
n
ea
n
t
r

ad
i
t
i
o
n
s.
There are several small
,
sp
ecialized co-o
p
eratives on
th
e is
l
an
d
s, pro
d
ucing
l
ace
t
a
bl
ec
l
ot
h

s an
d
curtains.
T
h
ese are ver
y
popu
l
ar
amon
g
t
h
e is
l
an
d
ers as we
ll
as t
h
e to
u
rists. Un
l
i
k
e
em

b
roi
d
ere
d
items,
l
ace-
w
ork is not too ex
p
ensive.
The beautiful o
p
enwork
t
ablecloths and
p
lacemats
are always produced in
w
hite and beige. Their
designs usuall
y
consist o
f
sy
mmetrica
l
patterns wit

h
a
b
stract or
fl
ora
l
moti
f
s,
f
eaturin
g
circ
l
es an
d
sun
s
l
in
k
e
d
to
g
et
h
er to creat
e

uni
f
orm compositions.
Experts regar
d
t
h
e
l
ace
p
roduced in Vilaflor, on
Tenerife, as bein
g
the most
beautiful and best quality.
th
ese carpets are ver
y
p
opu
l
ar wit
h
t
h
e
l
oca
l

p
opu
l
ation. You wi
ll
a
l
so
f
ind car
p
ets with regular
stri
p
es or with more
so
p
histicated designs, based
o
n
t
r
ad
i
t
i
o
n
a
l l

oca
l
p
atterns. Hand-woven
cloth is still use
d
t
o ma
k
e rugs,
t
apestries an
d
b
a
g
s an
d
, unti
l
r
ecent
ly
, some
e
l
ements o
f
t
h

e
l
oca
l
nationa
l
cos-
tu
mes were also hand-woven.
The islands of La Palma
a
n
d
L
a

Go
m
e
r
a

a
r
e
kn
own
f
or their woven
p

roducts.
W
EAVI
NG
W
EAVI
N
GIS
a
n
ot
h
e
r
t
r
ad
i
t
i
o
n
a
l h
a
n
d
i
c
r

a
f
t
W
W
t
hat continues to thrive in
t
he Canar
y
Islands, and
th
ere are man
y
esta
bl
is
h
e
d
w
eavers’ s
h
ops sti
ll
wor
k
ing
in t
h

e is
l
an
d
s to
d
a
y
. As i
n
p
ast centuries, simp
l
e
h
an
d
-
l
ooms are sti
ll

u
se
d
to
p
ro
d
uce car

p
ets, w
h
ic
h
are
based on traditional desi
g
ns.
Lon
g
and narrow, often with
r
andomly mixed colours,
O
T
HER
H
ANDICRAF
T
S
A
LWAYS VERY
A
A
p
o
p
ular with
tour

i
sts are
i
tems wove
n
from
p
alm leaves or willow
.
These include baskets and
b
owls
,
which are not
d
esigne
d
to
l
ast
f
orever,
b
ut
a
re nevert
h
e
l
ess ver

y
r
easona
bly
price
d
. A
l
so
f
or
s
a
l
e are t
h
e wi
d
e-
b
rimme
d
h
ats t
h
at are an
i
n
d
ispensa

bl
e part o
f
farm workers’ clothin
g
.
On reli
g
ious feast
d
ays, the women of
t
h
e
i
s
l
a
n
ds

wea
r
s
m
a
l
l
h
ats with an u

p
turned
b
rim. This local
f
as
h
ion
h
as
h
e
l
pe
d
t
o
f
urt
h
er a
d
eman
d

f
or
t
h
ese

l
oca
lly
pro
d
uce
d
,
pl
aite
d
straw
h
ats,
w
h
ic
h
are
l
i
gh
t an
d
ai
ry to wear.
T
imple-m
a
k

e
r
at

wo
r
k
Weaver’s wor
k
s
h
o
p
,
p
ro
d
ucing stri
p
e
d
car
p
et
s
Lace ta
b
lecloth from San
Bartolomé on Lanzarot
e

H
ig
hly
regar
d
e
d

f
or t
h
ei
r
artistic merit are
l
oca
l
carpentr
y
an
d
woo
d
wor
k
pro
d
ucts. T
h
e tra

d
ition o
f
a
d
ornin
g
t
h
e sur
f
aces o
f
woo
d
en
g
ates,
d
oors
and sh
u
tters with
c
arved motifs
g
oes back many
centuries. Old
g
ates and shutters,

as well as church
ornamen
t
s, are
o
f
ten masterpieces
o
f
woo
d
carvin
g
.
Th
e
d
istinctive woo
d
en
b
a
l
conies an
d
orie
l
s, wit
h
t

h
eir carve
d

b
rac
k
ets an
d
b
alustrades
,
are based o
n
historic desi
g
ns. Local trees,
i
ncluding
p
ine, chestnut and
b
eech,
p
rovide timber fo
r
m
an
y
household items such

a
s bowls, s
p
oons and ladles.
The

t
imple
–
a sma
ll
,
woo
d
en,
f
ive-strin
g
e
d
instru-
m
ent resem
bl
in
g
a u
k
u
l

e
l
e
–- is a popu
l
ar souveni
r

f
rom t
h
e Canary Is
l
an
d
s.
Th
e vi
ll
a
g
e o
f
Te
ld
e on
L
anzarote is renowned for
p
roducing these instruments.

Lon
g
, multi-coloure
d
s
triped carpe
t
O
FTE
N
COMPARE
D
t
o the extravaganzas in Rio de Janeiro
and New Orleans
,
the Santa Cruz carnival in
T
enerife takes place each year in the 10–1
4
days before
A
sh Wednesday. It is one of the largest carnivals in
Europe, with a spectacular display of costumes an
d
Latin American music. In Gran Canaria
,
festivities star
t
when the Tenerife carnival ends. The Carnival Fiest

a
i
n Lanzarote takes
p
lace at the beginning of March
,
with one in Fuerteventura two weeks later. Althoug
h
s
treet
p
arties were banned under the Franco regime
,
the tradition of holding carnivals – renamed “winter
festivals” – survived on the islands, re-emerging in thei
r
full glory after Spain’s return to democracy in 1975
.
I
NTRODUCING THE CANARY ISLAND
S
20
S
TREET
P
A
R
AD
E
S

E
AC
H
CA
RNIV
A
L
h
as a
d
i
ff
erent t
h
eme, w
h
ic
h
d
ictates t
h
e c
h
aracter o
f
t
h
e
s
treet

p
arades, the costume
s
worn by revellers and th
e
c
h
o
i
ce

o
f
deco
r
at
i
o
n
s.

St
r
eet
p
rocessions are held ever
y
d
a
y

during the carnival.
Organized marchers are
a
ccompanie
d

by

fl
oats wit
h
ta
bl
eaux o
f

h
istorica
l
o
r
all
e
g
orica
l
scenes. A
l
t
h

ou
gh
j
ust
f
or
f
un, a consi
d
era
bl
e
a
mount o
f
care
g
oes into
c
reatin
g
t
h
e music an
d
c
ostumes for the
p
arades.
Co

l
ourfu
l

p
rocession in the streets of Santa Cruz de Tenerif
e
Dra
g
show on the sta
g
e in Las Palmas de Gran Canari
a
T
HE
S
T
A
GE
A
NOTHER ESSENTIAL
A
A
e
lement
o
f each carnival is the
s
tage, which is usually buil
t

in
t
h
e

tow
n
ce
n
t
r
e.
A m
a
in
venue for night-time revels,
t
his is where the s
p
ectacular
ca
rni
val

shows

a
r
e

held

each
C
anary Islands Carnivals
T
HE
C
AR
N
IVA
L
Q
UEE
N
T
H
E CARNIVAL
b
egins wit
h
t
h
e e
l
ection o
f
its queen
.
A

ccompanie
d

by
co
l
our
f
u
l
carniva
l
crow
d
s, t
h
e
h
ope
f
u
l
can
d
i
d
ates arrive in
f
ront o
f

th
e jury on t
h
eir
l
avis
hl
y
decorated floats.
The contestants ar
e
usually local beauties, but
any girl may take part in th
e
competition. The beaut
y
and
g
race of the
p
ros
p
ective
queens are emp
h
asize
d

by
th

eir magni
f
icent costumes.
Th
e queen’s
d
ress must
b
e
unique an
d
comman
d
g
enera
l
a
d
miration
.
T
h
e new
l
y e
l
ecte
d
queen,
accompanied by her equally

beautiful ladies-in-waitin
g
,
r
eigns over all the carnival
fest
i
v
i
t
i
es.
H
e
r fl
oat

ta
k
es

t
h
e
p
lace of honour in all the
p
arades and the happ
y
“

sovereign”
l
oo
k
s
d
own
f
rom
h
er t
h
rone, greeting
h
er
c
h
eering carniva
l
su
b
jects
as s
h
e passes
by
.
e
venin
g

, t
h
e
b
an
d
s an
d
a
cro
b
atic
d
isp
l
a
y
s attractin
g
h
uge crow
d
s. Keen
l
y
f
oug
ht
c
ompetitions are

h
e
ld

h
ere
,
such as one for the
b
es
t
formation dancin
g
team.
C
omedy shows also attract
large audiences. The sam
e
stage
p
rovides a venue fo
r
c
lassical concerts, including
programmes o
f
c
h
ora
l

wor
k
s.
A
candidate for the coveted titl
e
o
f “Carnival Queen”
CANARY ISLANDS CARNIVALS
2
1
C
H
IL
D
RE
N
C
A
RNIV
A
L
means
fu
n an
d
g
ames
f
or everyone, not

j
ust t
h
e a
d
u
l
ts – c
h
i
ld
ren a
l
s
o
e
n
j
oy the festivities with many
e
vents
j
ust for them. They
m
arch in se
p
arate “small”
p
arades and
p

artici
p
ate in
their own stage shows and
c
om
p
etitions. Little girls
c
ompete
f
or t
h
e tit
l
e o
f
“Carniva
l
Princess”.
Ch
i
ld
ren’s costumes, ma
d
e
s
pecia
lly

f
or t
h
e occasion, are
of
ten tiny masterpieces o
f
d
ressma
k
ing. T
h
ey inc
l
u
d
e
traditional S
p
anish folk
d
resses
,
Brazilian samba
c
ostumes, fairy-tale and circus
figures. Pint-sized
p
artici
p

ants,
t
hrill
ed

w
i
t
h
t
h
e

e
x
c
i
te
m
e
n
t
a
nd their roles, quickl
y
enter
i
nto t
h
e spirit o

f
carniva
l
.
T
HE
B
URIAL OF
T
H
E
S
A
RDI
NE
T
HE SANTA CRU
Z
ca
rni
va
l
en
d
s wit
h
a gran
d

f

unera
l
p
rocession, ca
ll
e
d
El Entierro
de la Sardina
(
t
h
e
b
uria
l
o
f
th
e sar
d
ine
)
. T
h
is ritua
l
i
s
r

oote
d
in t
h
e past w
h
en
carniva
l
was t
h
e one occasion
w
hen
p
eo
p
le could derid
e
s
uch
p
owerful institutions a
s
t
he church. Today, crowds
s
till dress u
p
as clerical figures

.
Ca
rri
ed

at

t
h
e
h
ead

o
f
t
h
e
p
rocession is an enormous
p
apier-mâc
h
é sar
d
ine. T
h
e
“mourners” wai
l

an
dl
aug
h
as t
h
e
y

e
scort t
h
e
f
is
h
to t
h
e
s
ea.
H
ere
i
t is set a
l
i
gh
t an
d

hu
n
d
re
d
s o
f

f
irewor
k
s insi
de
it create an exp
l
osive
d
isp
l
ay.
p
reten
d
ing to
b
e someone
e
l
se creates a
g

reat sense o
f
eu
p
horia and encourages
mas
q
ueraders to let their hai
r
down and party.
M
AS
Q
UERADER
S
I
N
CO
N
TRAST
w
i
t
h
t
h
e

ca
rni

val
in Rio de
J
aneiro, where the
main procession
consists on
ly
o
f
organize
d
groups, in
th
e Canar
y
Is
l
an
d
s
a
l
most every
b
o
d
y
w
ears a mas
k

an
d
cost
u
me. Since t
h
e
mas
q
uerade fever also
affects tourists
,
the
parade inevitably turns
into a huge fanc
y-
dress ball
,
with druids
,
pirates, samurai
w
arriors an
d
come
dy
f
i
g
ures, suc

h
as C
h
ar
l
ie
Ch
ap
l
in or Disne
y
cartoon c
h
aracters,
pac
k
ing t
h
e streets
and s
q
uares. The ever-
p
o
p
ular game of
Chi
l
dren’s dancing disp
l

ay, in co
l
ourfu
l
costumes
C
A
RNIV
AL
C
OS
T
U
ME
S
A
N
D
M
AKE
-
UP
I
T
OF
T
EN
T
AKES
mont

h
s to
ma
k
e t
h
e extrava
g
ant
c
ost
u
mes an
d
mas
k
s an
d
to
d
esi
g
n and construct the
floats
,
so as soon as on
e
c
arnival ends
,

the Canarios
b
egin
p
lanning the next.
T
he general aim is alwa
ys
o
riginalit
y
, and the ideas for
c
arniva
l
costumes are o
f
ten
u
nique. T
h
e s
h
apes an
d
f
orms o
f
t
h

e o
u
t
f
its are
i
nspire
d

by
man
y
cu
l
tures,
b
ut one in
d
ispensa
bl
e
el
ement is an
u
n
u
s
u
a
l

h
air-
s
tyle – the more extravagant
the
b
etter.
Another im
p
ortant factor
i
s the make-u
p
, which often
sets

t
h
e

t
h
e
m
e

a
n
d

i
s

a
n
i
ntegral com
p
onent of th
e
c
ostume. Carniva
l
events
of
ten inc
l
u
d
e ex
h
i
b
itions
of
t
h
e most
u
n

u
s
u
a
l
or
s
pectacu
l
ar
b
o
dy
paintings.
A
Medusa costume, with equall
y
lurid make-up
Carnival reveller, dressed as a pirat
e
D
R
AG
Q
U
EEN
S
A
NOTHER NOTABLE
AA

feat
u
re
o
f the Canary Islands’
c
arnivals is the drag
q
ueens.
M
ixing with the mas
q
uer-
a
ding crowds the
y
are
c
onspicuousl
y
tall as the
y
wa
lk
on t
h
eir
h
ig
h

-
h
ee
l
e
d
,
p
latform shoes. At night-time,
drag
q
ueens flaunt their
costumes and demonstrate
t
heir dancing skills. The one
ju
d
ge
d
most stri
k
ing an
d
b
eauti
f
u
l

b

ecomes queen.