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Weber, jeanette clothing~fashion, fabrics & construction, 5th ed.

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Clothing,
Society &
the Fashion World
From Fashion
History to Today’s
Fashion Industry
28
pages
of Career
Profiles
Care &
Selection
Maintain, Repair,
Redesign &
Recycle
PLUS OVER
100
PAGES
OF HANDS-ON HANDBOOK
PLUS OVER
100
PAGES
OF HANDS-O
N HAND
BOOK
i
nteractive
s
tudent
e
dition


Clothing,
Society &
the Fashion World
From Fashion
History to Today’s
Fashion Industry
28
pages
of Career
Profiles
Care &
Selection
Maintain, Repair,
Redesign &
Recycle
PLUS OVER
100
PAGES
OF HANDS-ON HANDBOOK
PLUS OVER
100
PAGES
OF HANDS-O
N HAND
BOOK
Fifth Edition
Jeanette Weber, CFCS
01-21 FM-829006 9/29/06 3:58 PM Page 1
Brand Name Disclaimer
Publisher does not necessarily recommend or endorse any particular company or brand name product that

may be discussed or pictured in this text. Brand name products are used because they are readily available,
likely to be known to the reader, and their use may aid in the understanding of the text. Publisher recognizes
other brand name or generic products may be substituted and work as well or better than those featured in
the text.
Copyright © 2008 by The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc.
All rights reserved. Except as permitted under the United States Copyright
Act, no part of this publication may be reproduced or distributed in any
form or by any means, or stored in a database or retrieval system, without
prior written permission of the publisher, Glencoe/McGraw-Hill.
Send all inquiries to:
Glencoe/McGraw-Hill
3008 W. Willow Knolls Drive
Peoria, IL 61614-1083
ISBN: 978-0-07-876795-1
MHID: 0-07-876795-4
Printed in the United States of America
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 071 10 09 08 07 06
Safety Notice
The reader is expressly advised to consider and use all safety precautions described in this textbook or
that might also be indicated by undertaking the activities described herein. In addition, common sense
should be exercised to help avoid all potential hazards and, in particular, to take relevant safety precautions
concerning any known or likely hazards involved in food preparation, or in use of the procedures described
in Clothing Fashion, Fabrics & Construction, such as the risk of scissor cuts or iron burns.
Publisher and Authors assume no responsibility for the activities of the reader or for the subject matter
experts who prepared this book. Publisher and Authors make no representation or warranties of any kind,
including but not limited to, the warranties of fitness for particular purpose or merchantability, nor for any
implied warranties related thereto, or otherwise. Publisher and Authors will not be liable for damages of any
type, including any consequential, special or exemplary damages resulting, in whole or in part, from reader’s
use or reliance upon the information, instructions, warnings, or other matter contained in this textbook.
01-21 FM-829006 9/19/06 2:24 PM Page 2

CONTRIBUTING WRITER AND REVIEWERS
• 3
Katherine M. Chimini
Central High School
Bridgeport, Connecticut
Denise S. Geller, CFCS
SWAC Schools
Fort Wayne, Indiana
Michelle Elledge
Niles North High School
Skokie, Illinois
Marsha Grothusen
Oregon Trail Junior High School
Olathe, Kansas
Jane Eastman Halladay
Johnson City High School
Johnson City, New York
DeAnn Hebert
Des Moines Public Schools
Des Moines, Iowa
Deborah L. Hopper
Principal Consultant
Career Development and Preparation
Springfield, Illinois
Beth King
Holland Christian High School
Holland, Michigan
Jacqueline Merkerson
Hialeah High School
Hialeah, Florida

Shannon Rasmussen
Logan High School
Logan, Utah
Susan C. Teelin
Camden Central School District
Camden, New York
Linda Zabek
Frontier Regional School
South Deerfield, Massachusetts
Anne Marie Soto
Fashion and Sewing Specialist
AMS Associates
Teaneck, New Jersey
TEACHER REVIEWERS
CONTRIBUTING WRITER
01-21 FM-829006 9/14/06 10:00 AM Page 3
CONTENTS IN BRIEF
4
• CONTENTS IN BRIEF
Chapter 1: Influences on Clothing 24
Chapter 2: Cultures and Customs 36
Chapter 3: Clothing and Families 50
Chapter 4: Clothing and Self-Expression 60
Chapter 5: Fashion History 78
Chapter 6: Fashion Styles 96
Chapter 7: Fashion Designers 116
Chapter 8: The Fashion Industry 134
Chapter 9: Understanding Color 156
Chapter 10: Understanding Design 172
Chapter 11: Textile Fibers 196

Chapter 12: Fabric Construction 214
Chapter 13: Fabric Finishes 234
Unit 2: The Fashion World
Unit 3: Color and Design
Unit 4: Fibers and Fabrics
Unit 1: Clothing and Society
CONTENTS IN BRIEF
01-21 FM-829006 9/18/06 12:30 PM Page 4
CONTENTS IN BRIEF
• 5
Chapter 14: Clothing Care Basics 250
Chapter 15: Laundry and Dry Cleaning 266
Chapter 16: Redesign, Repair, and Recycle 282
Chapter 17: Exploring Options 302
Chapter 18: Accessing Information 318
Chapter 19: Evaluating Selections 332
Chapter 20: Consumer Responsibilities 344
Chapter 21: Selecting Clothes for Others 358
Chapter 22: Career Preparation 378
Chapter 23: Success on the Job 390
Chapter 24: Fashion Entrepreneurs 404
Chapter 25: Global Marketplace 418
Part 1: Patterns, Fabrics, and Notions 438
Part 2: Machines and Equipment 454
Part 3: Getting Ready to Sew 480
Part 4: Basic Construction 500
Part 5: Special Sewing Techniques 546
Unit 6: Clothing Selection
Unit 7: The Workplace
Sewing and Serging Handbook

Unit 5: Clothing Care
01-21 FM-829006 9/18/06 12:30 PM Page 5
6
• CONTENTS
Unit 1: Clothing and Society 22
Chapter 1: Influences on Clothing 24
Choosing What to Wear 25
Other Influences 27
A Changing Society 29
Looking Ahead 32
Technology Trends: Beyond Basic Clothing Functions 32
How To…Make Decisions 33
Chapter 2: Cultures and Customs 36
Clothing Reflects Cultures 37
Clothing as Symbols 39
Clothing Customs 42
How To…Select Business Casual Attire 45
Technology Trends: On-Line Fashion Information 47
Chapter 3: Clothing and Families 50
Family Clothing Needs 51
Clothing Management 53
Technology Trends: Transferring Photos to Fabric 55
How To…Jazz Up Your Home 56
CONTENTS
01-21 FM-829006 9/14/06 10:01 AM Page 6
CONTENTS
• 7
Chapter 4: Clothing and Self-Expression 60
Creating Impressions 61
Technology Trends: Using the Internet Wisely 63

What Clothing Communicates 64
Developing Your Personal Style 67
How To…Add Embellishments 69
Fashion Promotion Careers 72
Unit 2: The Fashion World 76
Chapter 5: Fashion History 78
The Earliest Clothing 79
The Evolution of Fashion 82
Influences on Fashion History 85
Technology Trends: Early Inventions 87
How To…Preserve Textiles 89
Fashions of the Twentieth Century 90
Chapter 6: Fashion Styles 96
What Is Fashion? 97
How To…Write Fashion Copy 98
Fashion Features 103
Garment Styles 107
Technology Trends: Latest Fashion News 113
01-21 FM-829006 9/14/06 10:02 AM Page 7
8
• CONTENTS
Chapter 7: Fashion Designers 116
The Role of Fashion Designers 117
The Design Process 119
How To…Create a Design Sketch 120
Designer Collections 122
Technology Trends: Apparel Design with CAD 123
Chapter 8: The Fashion Industry 134
The Textile Industry 135
How To…Explore Fashion Careers 137

The Apparel Industry 138
Technology Trends: Quick Response 141
Fashion Merchandising 143
Fashion Promotion 145
Apparel Production Careers 150
Unit 3: Color and Design 154
Chapter 9: Understanding Color 156
Color and Clothing 157
The Impact of Color 157
The Language of Color 160
Technology Trends: Correcting Color Blindness 163
Creating a Color Scheme 164
Selecting Colors for You 165
How To…Choose Your Colors 167
01-21 FM-829006 9/14/06 10:02 AM Page 8
CONTENTS
• 9
Chapter 10: Understanding Design 172
Shape and Size 173
The Elements of Design 175
How To…Create Design Illusions 178
Technology Trends: Fabrics by Computer 183
The Principles of Design 184
Individuality 187
Design Careers 190
Unit 4: Fibers and Fabrics 194
Chapter 11: Textile Fibers 196
What Are Fibers? 197
Fiber Names 197
Fiber Characteristics 198

Natural Fibers 199
Manufactured Fibers 203
Technology Trends: Microfibers 205
Identifying Fibers 210
How To…Identify Fibers 211
01-21 FM-829006 9/14/06 10:03 AM Page 9
10
• CONTENTS
Chapter 12: Fabric Construction 214
Yarns 215
How To…Evaluate Fabric Characteristics 218
Fabric Characteristics 219
Woven Fabrics 219
Technology Trends: Smart Fabrics 220
Knit Fabrics 224
Other Fabric Constructions 226
Chapter 13: Fabric Finishes 234
Finishing Process 235
Color and Design Finishes 235
How To…Create Printed Fabric 238
Texture and Performance Finishes 239
Technology Trends: High-Performance Finishes 241
Textile Production Careers 244
01-21 FM-829006 9/14/06 10:04 AM Page 10
CONTENTS
• 11
Unit 5: Clothing Care 248
Chapter 14: Clothing Care Basics 250
Routine Care 251
Understanding Care Labels 258

Technology Trends: Color Loss in Fabrics 259
Storing Clothes 260
How To…Create Clothing Space 262
Chapter 15: Laundry and Dry Cleaning 266
Laundry Products and Equipment 267
Laundering Clothes 272
Drying Clothes 275
Ironing Clothes 276
How To…Provide Sun Protection 277
Dry-Cleaning Clothes 278
Technology Trends: Dry Cleaning at Home 279
Chapter 16: Redesign, Repair, and Recycle 282
Redesigning Clothes 283
Repairing Clothes 287
How To…Make Simple Repairs 288
Recycling Clothes 290
Technology Trends: From Plastic Bottles to Parkas 292
Fashion Services Careers 296
01-21 FM-829006 9/14/06 10:04 AM Page 11
12
• CONTENTS
Unit 6: Clothing Selection 300
Chapter 17: Exploring Options 302
Evaluating Your Wardrobe 303
How To…Make a Wardrobe Chart 304
Identifying Your Resources 307
Ways to Expand Your Wardrobe 308
Technology Trends: On-Line Shopping 314
Chapter 18: Accessing Information 318
Sources of Information 319

Technology Trends: On-Line Sewing Information 323
How To…Place an Internet or Catalog Order 324
Using Information Effectively 327
Chapter 19: Evaluating Selections 332
Finding the Correct Size 333
Evaluating Fit 335
How To…Check a Garment’s Fit 336
Technology Trends: A Customized Fit 337
Evaluating Quality 338
Evaluating Care 339
Evaluating Price 340
Making a Final Decision 341
01-21 FM-829006 9/14/06 10:05 AM Page 12
CONTENTS
• 13
Chapter 20: Consumer Responsibilities 344
The Responsible Consumer 345
Technology Trends: Preventing Shoplifting and Theft 346
Paying for Purchases 347
Exchanges and Returns 351
Consumer Protection 352
How To…Complain Effectively 354
Chapter 21: Selecting Clothes for Others 358
Shopping for Family and Friends 359
Choosing Clothes for Children 361
Selecting Maternity Wear 364
Technology Trends: Embroidery Designs and
Copyright Laws 364
Choosing Clothes for Older Adults 366
Selecting Clothes for People with Disabilities 367

How To…Customize Garments 369
Fashion Merchandising Careers 372
Unit 7: The Workplace 376
Chapter 22: Career Preparation 378
Knowing Yourself 379
Researching Career Paths 381
Looking for a Job 382
Technology Trends: Job Search Via the Internet 383
Applying for a Job 384
How To…Dress for a Job Interview 386
01-21 FM-829006 9/14/06 10:05 AM Page 13
14
• CONTENTS
Chapter 23: Success on the Job 390
Ingredients for Success 391
Technology Trends: Technology Skills in the Workplace 392
How To…Be a Team Member 395
Traveling the Career Path 398
Balancing Work and Personal Life 400
Chapter 24: Fashion Entrepreneurs 404
Qualities of the Successful Entrepreneur 405
Opportunities for Entrepreneurs 406
How To…Use E-Mail 407
Technology Trends: Ergonomics in the Sewing Room 409
Responsibilities of Entrepreneurs 411
Developing a Business Plan 415
Chapter 25: Global Marketplace 418
Global Issues 419
Fashion Industry Trends 424
Technology Trends: Electronic Data Interchange 425

How To…Pack for Travel 429
Communication and Education Careers 432
01-21 FM-829006 9/14/06 10:06 AM Page 14
SEWING AND SERGING HANDBOOK CONTENTS
• 15
Lesson 1: Selecting a Pattern 439
Lesson 2: Selecting Fabric 445
Lesson 3: Selecting Notions 447
Lesson 4: Using a Sewing Machine 455
Lesson 5: Using a Serger 465
Lesson 6: Identifying Sewing Equipment 472
PART 1: PATTERNS, FABRICS, AND NOTIONS 438
PART 2: MACHINES AND EQUIPMENT 454
PART 3: GETTING READY TO SEW 480
Lesson 7: Understanding Patterns 481
Lesson 8: Adjusting a Pattern 486
Lesson 9: Preparing Fabric 490
Lesson 10: Laying Out a Pattern 492
Lesson 11: Cutting and Marking Fabric 495
SEWING AND SERGING
HANDBOOK CONTENTS
01-21 FM-829006 9/14/06 10:08 AM Page 15
16
• SEWING AND SERGING HANDBOOK CONTENTS
Lesson 12: Stitching by Machine 501
Lesson 13: Stitching by Hand 506
Lesson 14: Pressing Fabric 511
Lesson 15: Making Darts 514
Lesson 16: Gathering and Easing Fabric 516
Lesson 17: Sewing Plain Seams 519

Lesson 18: Applying Facings 524
Lesson 19: Making Casings 527
Lesson 20: Applying Fasteners 530
Lesson 21: Putting in Zippers 535
Lesson 22: Putting in Hems 537
Lesson 23: Checking the Fit 543
PART 4: BASIC CONSTRUCTION 500
01-21 FM-829006 9/14/06 10:09 AM Page 16
SEWING AND SERGING HANDBOOK CONTENTS
• 17
Lesson 24: Sewing Special Seams 547
Lesson 25: Making Tucks and Pleats 551
Lesson 26: Applying Interfacings 553
Lesson 27: Putting in Linings 555
Lesson 28: Sewing Collars 556
Lesson 29: Sewing Sleeves 559
Lesson 30: Sewing Cuffs 562
Lesson 31: Sewing Pockets 566
Lesson 32: Finishing Waistlines 571
Lesson 33: Applying Bias Bindings 574
Lesson 34: Adding Ruffles 579
Lesson 35: Adding Trims 581
GLOSSARY 586
CREDITS 594
INDEX 596
PART 5: SPECIAL SEWING TECHNIQUES 546
01-21 FM-829006 9/14/06 10:09 AM Page 17
Fashion Promotion Careers 72
Apparel Production Careers 150
Design Careers 190

Textile Production Careers 244
Fashion Services Careers 296
Fashion Merchandising Careers 372
Communication and Education Careers 432
18 •
SPECIAL FEATURES
Beyond Basic Clothing
Functions 32
On-Line Fashion Information 47
Transferring Photos to Fabric 55
Using the Internet Wisely 63
Early Inventions 87
Latest Fashion News 113
Apparel Design with CAD 123
Quick Response 141
Correcting Color Blindness 163
Fabrics by Computer 183
Microfibers 205
Smart Fabrics 220
High-Performance Finishes 241
Color Loss in Fabrics 259
Dry Cleaning at Home 279
From Plastic Bottles
to Parkas 292
On-Line Shopping 314
On-Line Sewing Information 323
A Customized Fit 337
Preventing Shoplifting
and Theft 346
Embroidery Designs and

Copyright Laws 364
Job Search Via the Internet 383
Technology Skills in
the Workplace 392
Ergonomics in the
Sewing Room 409
Electronic Data Interchange 425
Technology Trends
Technology Trends
Careers
01-21 FM-829006 9/14/06 10:10 AM Page 18
SPECIAL FEATURES
• 19
Make Decisions 33
Select Business Casual Attire 45
Jazz Up Your Home 56
Add Embellishments 69
Preserve Textiles 89
Write Fashion Copy 98
Create a Design Sketch 120
Explore Fashion Careers 137
Choose Your Colors 167
Create Design Illusions 178
Identify Fibers 211
Evaluate Fabric Characteristics 218
Create Printed Fabric 238
Create Clothing Space 262
Provide Sun Protection 277
Make Simple Repairs 288
Make a Wardrobe Chart 304

Place an Internet or Catalog Order 324
Check a Garment’s Fit 336
Complain Effectively 354
Customize Garments 369
Dress for a Job Interview 386
Be a Team Member 395
Use E-Mail 407
Pack for Travel 429
How To…
01-21 FM-829006 9/14/06 10:11 AM Page 19
20 •
SPECIAL FEATURES
The Management Process 54
Stages of a Fashion Cycle 101
Other Users of Fibers and Fabrics 136
Computing the Price of a Pair of Pants 140
Color Effects on Size 168
Using Wrist Size to Estimate Body Frame Size 173
Information on Natural Fibers 199
Information on Manufactured Fibers 206
Trade Names of Manufactured Fibers 207
Identifying Fibers in the Lab 210
Washing and Rinsing Temperatures 274
Steps in Wardrobe Planning 303
Size Categories for Females 334
Size Categories for Males 335
Calculating Cost per Wearing for One Year 341
Advantages and Disadvantages of Using Credit 351
Size Categories for Children 362
Career Clusters 381

Training and Education Needed for Careers 382
Student Organizations 396
Aspects of Industry 398
Fabric Store Yearly Income and Expenses 414
Business Plan 415
Choosing Thread, Needle Size, and Stitch Length 458
Stitch-Length Conversion 461
Correcting Stitching Problems 463
Correcting Serging Problems 470
Charts
01-21 FM-829006 9/14/06 10:11 AM Page 20
SPECIAL FEATURES
• 21
S
erging
T
echniques
Stitching 504
Removing Stitches 505
Belt Carrier 508
Pressing Seams 512
Gathering 517
Serging Plain Seams 520
Seam Finishes 523
Facings 526
Applying Elastic to
Lingerie 529
Hems 539
Rolled Hem and
Cover-Stitch Hem 541

Narrow Rolled Seam 547
Reinforced Seam 548
Topstitched Seam 549
Flatlock Seam 550
Tucks 552
Collar 558
Sleeves 561
Curved Patch Pocket 569
Plain Waistband 572
Attaching Waistbands 573
Tubing 578
Ruffles 580
Trims 582
HHiigghhlliigghhtteedd TTooppiiccss
Basic Functions of Clothing 26
Neckline Styles 104
Collar Styles 105
Sleeve Styles 106
Dress Styles 108
Shirt Styles 109
Skirt Styles 110
Pants Styles 111
Jacket and Coat Styles 112
Famous Designers 126
The Color Spectrum 160
The Color Wheel 161
Line Types 175
Basic Clothing Shapes 180
Manufacturing Fibers 204
Fabric Dictionary 228

Stain Removal Methods 254
What Do Fabric Care
Symbols Mean? 261
Categories of Retail Stores 312
Writing a Check 348
School-to-Work Skills 380
Pattern Envelope Back 442
Taking Your Measurements 443
Parts of a Sewing Machine 456
Threading the Machine 459
Parts of a Serger 465
Pattern Symbols and Lines 484
Fabric Terms 490
01-21 FM-829006 9/14/06 10:12 AM Page 21
Clothing
and
Society
UNIT 1
22 •
UNIT 1 Clothing and Society
22-35-CH1-829006 9/14/06 3:53 PM Page 22
23
CHAPTERS
1 Influences on Clothing
2 Cultures and Customs
3 Clothing and Families
4 Clothing and Self-Expression
Fashion Promotion Careers
FEATURE
22-35-CH1-829006 9/14/06 3:54 PM Page 23

CHAPTER 1
Influences on Clothing
• Describe the basic
functions that
clothing fulfills.
• Explain personal
influences on
clothing choices.
• Compare the
influence of family
and friends on
clothing choices.
• Evaluate the
media’s impact on
clothing.
• Explain how
societal changes
influence clothing.
adornment
media
modesty
peer group
society
status
status symbols
values
OBJECTIVES
KEY TERMS
24 •
UNIT 1 Clothing and Society

22-35-CH1-829006 8/9/06 10:51 AM Page 24

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