Garments Manufacturing Technology

Prepared By-
Md. Kamrul Hasan
Batch: 15
th
(SEU)
Handbook of
Garments Manufacturing Technology - II
Southeast University
Department of Textile Engineering


Special Thanks to -
Adnan Zaber Mahmud
Lecturer,
Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
And
Md. Hanif Hossain
15
th
Batch


Prepared By-
Md. Kamrul Hasan
15
th
Batch
Department of Textile Engineering

Cell: 01929622432
01723298989
Email:


It is a collection of class lectures of our respectable teacher Adnan Zaber Mahmud
and collection from other sources.


SL No
Topics
Page No
01
General Discussion on Garments
01
02
Buying house
01
03
Name of some important buyer of Bangladesh
02
04
How buyers place an order?
03
05
Some major garments manufacturer countries
03
06
GSP
04

07
Steps of Garments Export Procedure
06
08
In-line Inspection, On-line Inspection, Tech. Pack, BOM Sheet, ICD
12
09
FOB, C & F ,CIF, CM, CMT, Lead Time, Compliance
13
10
Different types of Agents in Garments Sector
14
11
Documents required for Export
15
12
Documents required for Import
16
13
Different types of Payment methods in Garments Trade
17
14
Documents required for Payment
19
15
Garments common item export from Bangladesh
20
16
Garments Accessories/Trims
26

17
Stitch and Seam
35
18
Sewing Threads
45
19
Thread Count and Ticket Number
49
20
Garment Defects
50
21
Application of Sewing Machines in Garments Manufacturing
53
22
Some Garments Industrial Sewing Machine Figure
55
23
Parts of the Sewing Machine
58
24
Pressing
62
25
Packing into Carton
63
26
Acceptable Quality Level (AQL)
64

27
Fabric (Which are used in Garments)
66
28
Machine Lay-out of Garment
70
29
Sewing Flow Chart of T-Shirt & Polo-Shirt Manufacturing
72
30
Sewing Flow Chart of Trouser (Jeans pant) Manufacturing
77
31
Some Important Terms
79
32
Care Labeling Code
80
INDEX


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Md. Kamrul Hasan | Cell: 01929622432 | Email:
General Discussion on Garments

Some factors related to buying side:
 Customer:
Those who buy a product & use the product.
 Retailer:
Those who sell product to the customer through outlets and they buy from

wholesalers/buyers.
 Wholesaler:
Those who sell product to the retailers and they buy in large quantity
from suppliers.
 Importer:
Those who buy from overseas countries and sell these to
wholesaler/retailer/customer.
 Buyer:
Those who buy from suppliers/seller and sell further to another buyer or
customer.

Some factors related to selling side:
 Seller:
Those who sell to the buyers. They may/may not manufacture the
product.
 Supplier:
They are a kind of seller.
 Manufacturer:
Those who manufacture the product.
 Exporter:
Those who sell to the buyers in the overseas countries.
 Trader:
Those who mediates between buyer and manufacturer. Trader are two
types such as local and foreign.
Buying house:
1. Buyer liaison office (Buyer will directly open a branch).
2. Traders are of two types- i). Foreign Trader& ii). Local Trade
*** 80% Trader (Baridhara, Uttara) and 20% Liaison office (Gulsion, Dhaka).

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List of Traders:
Multinational trader:
1. Li & Fung (Hongkong)
2. Comptextile (Shrilanka)
3. Texebo
4. Asmara (India)
5. Mondial (Europe)
6. Lin mark (Europe)
7. ZXY Apparel Buying Solution (Europe)
8. Synergies
Local Trader:
1. Centrotex (BD)
2. Team sourcing (Uttara; BD)
3. Norwest (BD)

Name of some important buyer of Bangladesh:
Generally buyers of USA, Europe, Japan, Australia, India, and Canada are the
main buyers of garments and Textile product of Bangladesh.
Name of some important buyers of these countries are given below-
USA buyer
Europe buyer
Others buyer
1. Wal-mart
2. Levi’s
3. Academy
4. Banana
5. Gap
6. PVH (Phillips Von Heuson)
7. Peri Ellis

8. Jcpenny
9. Old Navy
10. American Eagle






1. Zara
2. H & M
3. M & S (Marks & Spencer)
4. Nike
5. Adidas
6. Armani
7. Next
8. Mango
9. Tesco
10. Tema
11. NKD
12. Jd Williams
13. Adler
14. European Eagle
15. Jack & Jones
16. Carrefour
17. Sains Burry
18. Abercrombie & Fitch
Japanese buyer:
1. Uniquelo

Australian buyer:
1. K-mark

Indian buyer:
1. Black Berry
2. Mahendra
3. ITC
4. Ramond

Canadian buyer:
1. Hudson Bay
2. Boss Hugo
3. Hugger Canada





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Question: How buyers place an order?
Which are used according to confirmation of order is given by below-
Seasons of Export in USA:
 Spring
 Summer
 Fall
Seasons of Export in Europe:
a)
i) Spring
ii) Summer

b)
i) Autumn
ii) Winter

Some major garments manufacturer countries:
1. China
2. Bangladesh
3. India
4. Shrilanka
5. Vietnam
6. Combodia
7. Mianmar
8. Thailand
9. Turkey
10. Indonesia
11. Pakistan
Turkey: This country is suitable for highly decorative and fancy garments.

China: Buyers select China for decorative garments and short time shipment.

India: Buyers select India for decorative garments.

Vietnam: Buyers select Vietnam for plain printed T-Shirt.

January to Jun
July to December

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Combodia: Buyers select Combodia for plain printed T-Shirt.

Bangladesh: Bangladesh is a Lower Developing Country with GSP facility.
Buyers import various types of garments from Bangladesh.

GSP:
The Generalized System of Preferences (known as GSP for short) is a scheme
whereby a wide range of industrial and agricultural products originating in
certain developing countries are given preferential access to the markets of the
European Union.
Preferential treatment is given in the form of reduced or zero rates of customs
duties.
The GSP scheme is specifically designed to benefit certain developing countries
and integrate them into the world economy.
Since 1971, the EU has had rules ensuring that exporters from developing
countries pay lower duties on some or all of what they sell to the EU. This gives
them vital access to EU markets contributing to the growth of their economies.
This scheme is known as the "Generalized System of Preferences".
Today Bangladesh offers a very flexible and feasible production base for its
customers in EU, America and Australia.
The EU market is quota free for apparels and goods are eligible for the GSP
facilities. As an LDC member Bangladesh also obtain special Tariff benefit
from Canada (18% import Tax free).

Importance of GSP Status:
Bangladesh has an excellent opportunity to boost exports of garments to the
USA and EU countries where demand for
 Low price
 Good quality
 Capacity

So, GSP status is very important for us.
 With the GSP status, Bangladeshi garment products can enter the market
duty free. On the other hand, its absence, it has to pay 12 percent import
duties for most products. This status helps decrease the cost per unit of
garments, causing the demand to rise.
 This not only helps the garment industry but also the entire economy.

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 Increased trade means higher export earnings which help promote further
industrialization, leading to higher economic growth.
 Now let us look at a more concrete example. Bangladesh’s apparel
exports to the EU made a leap since January 2011 when it allowed GSP
for Bangladeshi garments made from imported fabrics. Previously,
Bangladesh used to enjoy the GSP benefit only for those garments made
from local fabrics.
 There is a 46 percent rise in apparel exports between a year without and
with GSP, indicating the importance of this status in the country’s apparel
industry.





Graph of GSP

 Without it, the price per unit of garment will rise and this may lead to
many European buyers turning their backs on our products.

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Steps of Garments Export Procedure:

1. Inquiry of a product:
First of all, supplier collects the product from the buyer and enquiry the product.

2. Space Availability/Timely delivery:
Space availability is the availability of production floor for the production of
garments. Within the time, garments must be delivery.

3. Costing/Pricing/Quotation:
Costing means the way of calculating the cost of production of garments.
Costing is done considering-
i) Fabric cost
ii) Accessories cost &
iii) CM (Cost of Making) cost

Way of Costing:
Costing can be done by-

i) Original Sample
ii) Specification

4.Order Confirmation:
An order confirmation is a written document which is issued by buyer to the
manufacturer which contains Tech-pack. It serves as tool to avoid confusion and
mistakes.

5. PO (Purchase Order):
After confirmation of an order buyer provides seller a written document which
mention the order details such as-
- Order quantity
- Delivery date
- Port of destination
- Item description
- Item unit price etc.

6. Master L/C:
A guarantee letter of payment. This letter ensure that seller will get his payment
after delivery of the goods. It is issued by the bank of buyer to the bank of
manufacturer.




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7. T & A Calendar Made by the factory:
T & A or “Time and Action” calendar is made by the manufacturer to complete
the production within a specific period of time.

8. Fabric & Accessories Booking by the factory:
After making of T & A calendar, fabric & accessories booking is necessary.
Without fabric, all materials used in garments is called “Accessories” or
“Trimmings”. Accessories includes-
i) Sewing Thread
ii) Button
iii) Interlining
iv) Zipper
v) Label
vi) Tissue Paper
vii) Ball head pin
viii) Hager
ix) Carton
x) Rib and
xi) Plastic Clip etc.

9. BB (Back to Back) L/C opened by the factory:
Back to Back L/ C is prepared by the manufacturer to collect raw materials from
the suppliers. It has 70-80% financial value of Master L/C.

Difference between Master L/C and Back to Back L/C:

Master L/C
Back to Back L/C
Master L/C is prepared by the buyer
to import goods from the
manufacturer.
Back to Back L/C is prepared by the
manufacturer to collect raw materials

for the production.
This L/C is issued by the buyer to the
manufacturer.
This L/C is issued by the manufacturer
to the raw material suppliers.
It is the basic L/C.
It depends on Master L/C.
It has higher financial value than the
Back to Back L/C.
It has lower financial value than the
Master L/C (70-80% of Master L/C).








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10. Sampling:
In garments industry, the sample which is come from buyer and it is followed
for bulk production called sample. The process of collecting or making sample
is called “Sampling”.

Types of Garments Sample:

a. Proto Sample:
Features:

 This sample is made by available fabric and accessories.
 This sample is made before or after order confirmation.

Purpose:
Here buyer checks whether supplier can make the garments.

b. Fit Sample:
Features:
 This sample is made by available fabric and accessories.
 This sample is made after order confirmation.

Purpose:
Here buyer checks the fitness or measurement of the garments.

c. P.P (Pre-Production) Sample:
Features:
 This sample is made by actual fabric and accessories.
 This sample is made after order confirmation.
 These samples must be approved by the buyer before production.

Purpose:
Bulk production is done following P.P sample.

d. Size Set Sample:
Features:
 These samples are made in all sizes.
 These samples are made in the production floor.
 These samples are not sent to the buyer.
Purpose:
These samples are only used for PP meeting.

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e. Production Sample:
Features:
 These samples are collected from the production floor while bulk
production is running.
 These samples are sent to the buyer.

Purpose:
Here buyer compares Production Sample with the PP Sample.

f. Garments Test Sample:
Features:
 These samples are collected from the production floor while bulk
production is running.
 These samples are sent to the testing house.

Purpose:
Here Testing House tests different aspects of the garments and send “test
report” to the buyer and factory.

Common Tests of Garments: Common tests of garments are below-
 Dimensional Stability Tests
 Seam Strength Tests
 Button Attaching Tests
 Spirality Tests
 Color Fastness Tests
 Abrasion Tests

 Radiation of Materials Tests
Name of Some Testing Houses/Companies:
i) SGS
ii) ITS
iii) TUV SUD
iv) Burean Veritas
Functions of Testing Houses:
 Garment test
 Fabric test
 Accessories test
 Inline-inspection
 Pre-final inspection
 Final inspection
 Garments factory auditing for compliance.
Multinational

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g. Shipment Samples:
Features:
 These samples are not so mandatory.
 These samples are sent to the buyer after shipment of the garments.

Purpose:
Here buyer compares Shipment Sample with Production Sample.

h. Salesman Samples:
The sample which is made for market appraisal or marketing purpose then it is
called salesman sample. It is made at the final stage of order confirmation and
actual materials are used for marketing the sample.

11. Fabric & Trims in House:
Here confirms all fabrics and accessories in manufacturer storehouse in time.
Otherwise the schedule will be hampered.

12. Inspection of Inventory& Report Making:
Check the quality & quantity of fabrics and accessories in house. After checking
a report is made with the test data.

13. PP (Pre-production) Meeting:
This meeting is held just before going to the bulk production. This meeting is
conducted by following persons-

 Buying House QC
 Factory QC
 Buying House Merchandiser
 Factory Merchandiser
 Pattern Master
 Cutting Master
 Production Manager
 Sample man

14. Pattern and Marker Making for Bulk Production:
Pattern is a hard paper which is made by following all the specifications of each
and individual components for a particular style of garment.
Marker is a thin paper contains all the necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a
particular size of garments.

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15. Trial or Pilot Cutting:
Little amount (for 200-300 pieces of garments) of fabrics are cut for checking
the efficiency and production cost of the garments.

16. Bulk Cutting:
Here total fabrics are cut for bulk production.

17. Numbering, Bundling & Sorting:
After cutting of fabrics numbering, Bundling and sorting process are done. Then
cut pieces are sent to the sewing section.

18. Production Line Set-up:
Production line set-up is the arrangement of sewing machines where input of the
first machine is cutting part of the fabrics and the output of the last machine is
complete garments. Production line is 4 types –







19. Sewing:
Cutting pieces are attached by sewing to make the complete garments. Different
types of sewing machines are used in production line.

20. Finishing:
Finishing includes- Ironing and Packing.

21. Pre-Final Inspection:
This inspection is done after 70% production will be completed by factory QC.

22. Final Inspection:
This inspection is done after complete of 100% production. Final inspection is
conducted by the –
i) Buyer
ii) Buyer QC
iii) Trader QC
iv) Self Inspection: Conducted by the factory QC.
v) Third Party Inspection: Conducted by the testing houses.

Foreign
Local

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23. Delivery:
If everything is ok, then supplier sent the goods to the buyer.


In-line Inspection:
During production, buyer QC will come and check the product quality and
suggest to over-come any type of problem. This type of inspection is called In-
line Inspection.

On-line Inspection:
Inspection at the end of the production line during production is called On-line
Inspection. This inspection is conducted by the factory QC.

Tech. Pack (Technical Package):
The file which contains the specification of product is called “Tech-pack” or
“Specification File” or “PDM” (Product Development Manual) or “Order
Sheet” or “Product Package”. Technical Package is issued by the buyer and
collected by the manufacturer. A technical package which mention-

i) Design or Sketch of garments
ii) Fabric details:
 Composition
 Color
 Construction
 GSM or oz/yd
2

 Any other instruction

iii) Accessories details
iv) Any Kind of Instruction
v) Garments Size ( called “Measurement Chart” or “Size Chart” )

BOM Sheet:
The pages of specification file contain fabric and accessories detail is called
BOM (Bill of Material) Sheet.

ICD:
ICD means Inland Container Depot. The goods which are not suitable to
transport in carton because of introducing crease marks. So goods are transport
by hanging in ICD. These goods are suit, blazer, dress pant, dress shirt etc.

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FOB (Free on Board):
It is the value of the product which is claimed/fixed without the cost
transportation of the goods.

C & F (Cost and Freight):
It is the value of the product which is claimed/fixed including the cost
transportation of the goods.

CIF (Cost, Insurance and Freight):
It is the value of the product which is claimed/fixed including the cost
transportation and insurance.

CM (Cost of Making):
Buyer will provide all the fabric and accessories. Manufacturers have to make
only garment and he will get charge of making only.

CMT (Cost of Making and Trimming):
Buyer will provide all fabric. Manufacturer will get the making charge and at
the same time will get the trimming cost.

Lead Time:
The time between order confirmation to the delivery is called lead time.

Compliance:

Compliance means comply something that is yield to the wishes another. The
main aim of compliance is to ensuring the all labour rights and facilities
according to the Buyer code of conduct. These include-
 Safety
 Healthy environment
 Working time
 Over time
 Salary & Wages
 Facilities (Dining, Child care, Toilet, Doctor)

Factories may be classified as-
 Compliant
 Semi Compliant &
 Non-Compliant

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Different types of Agents in Garments Sector:

1. Currier Companies:
Sample or any other important documents necessary for export are sent by the
currier.
Name of Some Currier:
1. DHL
2. Aramex
3. TNT
4. Fedex
5. UPS
6. Sky net
7. DPEX

8. Dragon

2. C& F (Clearing & Forwarding) Agent:
They are only handle all kinds of customs related documents are called C & F
Agent. They work for exporter. Exporter pays the C & F Agents.

Name of Some C & F Agent:
1. Continental
2. Chitra
3. Epsheeta

3. Logistic Firms or Freight Forwarding Agent or Forwarder:
The firms or agents which take the responsibility to receive the goods from
factory to Chittagong port and send to the buyer destination or buyer agent are
called “Logistic Firms”. Buyer pays the logistic firms.

Names of Some Logistic Firms:

i) Maersk
ii) APL
iii) MGH
iv) NYK
v) Kuhen & Negel
vi) Expolonca
vii) Damco
viii) NMC Corporation Ltd.
ix) HTL Logistic
x) Crown Logistic

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4. Bank:
They take care our payment and all financial matters.

5. Testing Companies:
Functions of testing company:
 Garment test
 Fabric test
 Accessories test
 Inline-inspection
 Pre-final inspection
 Final inspection
 Garments factory auditing for compliance.

6. Transportation Companies:
Any kind of textile material transport by transportation companies.


Documents required for Export:
1. Trade License:
This license is used for business permission. It is issued by City Corporation or
Poroshova.

2. Bank current account:
This account will be any scheduled commercial bank.

3. TIN (Tax Identification Number) certificate:
It is issued by NBR (National Board of Revenue).

4. Membership of BGMEA or BKMEA or DCCI or BGBA:

This membership which protect from any kind of accident such as conflict
between any industry.
Note:
BGMEA = Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers & Exporters Association.
BKMEA = Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers & Exporters Association.
DCCI = Dhaka Chamber of Commerce & Industry.
BGBA = Bangladesh Garment Buying House Association.



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5. ERC (Export Registration Certificate):
It is issued by office of the controller of export & import.

6. VRC (Vat Registration Certificate):
It is issued by customs. It does not need to renew.

7. EXP (Export Permission):
It is issued by any scheduled commercial bank. For each order this EXP is
issued separately.

8. Memorandum of association:
It is a document that is issued by RJSC (Registered of Joint Stock Companies
and Firms) which indicates the partnership specially share percentage, profit
percentage and any kind of partnership details in case of limited company.

9. Certification of incorporation:
It is issued by RJSC (Registered of Joint Stock Companies and Firms) include
member details.

Note:
1-5 and 7 all points are renew every year.

Documents required for Import:
1. Trade License:
This license is used for business permission. It is issued by City Corporation or
Poroshova.

2. Bank current account:
This account will be any scheduled commercial bank.

3. TIN (Tax Identification Number) certificate:
It is issued by NBR (National Board of Revenue).

4. Membership of BGMEA or BKMEA or DCCI or BGBA:
This membership which protect from any kind of accident such as conflict
between any industry.
Note:
BGMEA = Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers & Exporters Association.
BKMEA = Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers & Exporters Association.
DCCI = Dhaka Chamber of Commerce & Industry.
BGBA = Bangladesh Garment Buying House Association.

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5. IRC (Import Registration Certificate):
It is issued by office of the controller of export & import.

6. VRC (Vat Registration Certificate):

It is issued by customs. It does not need to renew.

7. IMP (Import Permission):
It is issued by any scheduled commercial bank. For each order this EXP is
issued separately.

8. Memorandum of association:
It is a document that is issued by RJSC (Registered of Joint Stock Companies
and Firms) which indicates the partnership specially share percentage, profit
percentage and any kind of partnership details in case of limited company.

9. Certification of incorporation:
It is issued by RJSC (Registered Joint Stock Company) include member details.

Note:
1-5 and 7 all points are renew every year.


Different types of Payment methods in Garments Trade:
1. L/C (Letter of Credit):
A guarantee letter of payment. This letter ensure that seller will get his payment
after delivery of the goods.
Types of L/C-
a) L/C at sight: Incase of L/C at sight after delivery of the goods and
documents seller will get his paymentinstantly.
b) Deferred at sight: Incase of deferred at sight after delivery of the goods
and documents seller will not get his payment instantly. Such as-
 L/C at 30 days sight
 L/C at 45 days sight
 L/C at 60 days sight

 L/C at 90 days sight
 L/C at 120 days sight
 L/C at 180 days sight


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2. T/T (Telegraphic Transfer):
T/T means Cash Taka. When order quantity is very small and need urgent
delivery, in that case, buyer gives sales contract instead of L/C and sends money
to seller bank by T/T. After getting money, the seller sends the goods to buyer.
Now it is not use.
Types of T/T-
a) Open T/T: Buyer will pay open either 100% or 70% or 50% or 30%.

b) Conditional T/T: Buyer will pay advance but can not money without
showing documents.

3. D/P (Documents against payment):
Buyer gives order by sales contract instead of L/C but it is risky method. After
delivery of the goods and documents seller will not get his payment guaranteed.

4. D/A (Documents against acceptance):
This is the most risky method. After delivery of the good send documents buyer
will delay the payment. Such as-
 D/A at 30 days sight
 D/A at 45 days sight
 D/A at 60 days sight
 D/A at 90 days sight
 D/A at 120 days sight

 D/A at 180 days sight

5. Western Union:
This union is used for very small quantity of the garments. For example: 300pcs
of garments.









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Documents required for Payment:
1. Commercial invoice:
Commercial invoice is the final invoice and basic document. It contain all the
details like name & address of importer and exporter, description of goods,
quantity, rate, value of goods, details of shipment.

2. Packing List:
This is a document that indicates the contents of each individual carton/
package in the container. The packing list includes the cubic
measurement of the cartons/package, the weight, the number of
cartons/packages, the breakdown of the goods by size/color/quantity. This
document is prepared by the seller or the ship owner, and the buyer can
specify which information should be included.

3. Bill of Landing or Air Way Bill:
Bill of Landing is a document issued by the shipping company acknowledging
that the goods have been shipped on board or air and undertaking that the goods
as received will be delivered to the consignee (Buyer).
When the export contract is CIF, then the exporter makes payment of the freight
and gets “freight paid” Bill of Landing. On the other hand, if the contract is
FOB, the freight has to be paid by the importer. In that case, the shipping
company will issue a “freight collect” Bill of Landing.

















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There are three categories of garments that we export-

 Woven Garments

 Knit Garments &
 Heavy Knit Garments


Woven Garments:

1. Shirt:
Men top garments. Shirt is of two types-

a) Basic/Formal/Dress/Official shirt
b) Casual/Pilot shirt

2. Pants/Trouser:
Men bottom garments. Pants may be of two types-
a) Formal/Dress/Chino pants
b) Casual pants. e.g. Jeans pants, Cargo pants.

3. Half Pants or Shorts:
Men bottom garments above the knee. e.g. Cargo shorts.

4. 3/4 of Pants or Bermuda:
Men bottom garments under the knee, above the ankle.
e.g. Three quarter.

5. Skirt:
Ladies bottom garments.

6. Blouse:
Ladies top garments. e.g. Ladies shirt or ladies fotua.

7. Dress:
Ladies top garments. e.g. Ladies kamiz.

8. Capri’s:
Ladies pant above the ankle & below the knee but not ¾ of pants.



Fig: shirt
Fig: Shirt
Fig: Pant
Garments common item export from Bangladesh
Fig: Half pant
Fig:Three quarter
Fig: Skirt
Fig: Ladies shirt
Fig: Capris

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9. Jacket/Blazer/Coat:
Men top garments containing “Lapel” and Taffeta.

10. Padded Jacket:
Jacket that contains “Quilting”.

11. Trench Coat:
Long coat with waist belt.

12. Gilet:

Sleeveless thick jacket that is mainly used in Europe.

13. Parka:
It is another type of jacket but in has a hairy look in the collar part.

14. Vest/over coat/waist coat:
Sleeveless coat with button at front that is basically used as dress.
e.g. Mujib coat.

15. Pajamas/Night wear/Sleep wear:
Night dress- both top & bottom.

16. Cover all:
One type of work wear that covers full body.

17. Overall:
One type of sleeveless work wear that covers full body.

18. Short all:
One type of sleeveless work wear that covers half of the body.

19. Head Wear:
Different types of cap, hat etc.

Fig: Pant
Fig: Blazer
Fig: Gilet
Fig: Parka
Fig: Vest
Fig: Cap