FASHION DRAPING TECHNIQUES a STEP BY STEP VISUAL GUIDE TO FASHION DESIGN

F
ASHION
D
RAPING
T
ECHNIQUES
A STEP-BY-STEP VISUAL
GUIDE TO FASHION DESIGN
PRESENTED BY :
KHUSHBOO KHUNTWAL
B. Sc. FT. 1ST YEAR DIPLOMA
FASHION TECHNOLOGY
SUBMITTED TO
DEZYEN E’ COLE COLLEGE TOWARDS
PRACTICAL FULFILLMENT FOR THE AWARDS
OF
ADVNCE DIPLOMA IN FASHION TECHNOLOGY

SUBMITTED BY
KHUSHBOO KUHNTWAL
ADVANCE DIPLOMA IN FASHION TECNOLOGY

ADVISER
MADHURI TANDON
DEZYNE E’ COLE COLLEGE AJMER 2010-2011

BASIC BODICE BLOCK
PREPARING THE FABRC-FRONT


1. Measure length for the front bodice along the straight of

grain from the neck band to the waist and add 5inches. Snip
and tear the fabric this length.
2. Measure the width for the front bodice along the cross grain
from the center front of the dress from to the side seam at
the bust level and add 5 inches. Snip and tear the fabric this
width block and press the fabric at this time.
3. Draw the center front grain line 1”inches from the edge.
Press under.

NOTE: - The selvage is to your left hand and the torn edge is
to your right hand.
4. Using on l-square ruler, draw a perfect cross grain line in the
center of the fabric panel.
This cross grain line will be referred to as the bus level line.
1. Measure on the dress from the distance from the center
front to the apex. Measure and cross mark the apex this
distance the bust level of the fabric.
2. Measure from the apex to the side seam at the bust level on
the dress form. Measure and cross mark this side seam
distance on the bust level of the fabric.
3. Draw the center of the princess panel line. Divide in half the
distance from the apex to the side seam at the bust level.
Using an l-square ruler, draw a line parallel to the center
front grain line at this divided position squaring down from
the bust level.

BASIC BODICE BLOCK
DRAPING STEPS- FRONT

1. Pin the apex mark on the fabric to the apex position on the
dress form.
2. Pin the center front grain line fold to the fabric to the center
front position of the dress form .Anchor pins at center front
and neck and center front waist. An additional pin may be
needed at the bust level tape.
1. Pin the center of the princess panel line of the fabric exactly
in the center of the princess panel of the dress form. Anchor
pins at the waist line and the cross grain. Align a pin the
from cross grain.

NOTE:- The purpose for centering the princess panel line is
to be sure the cross grain line is perfectly aligned check that
the length wise grain is parallel to center front and
perpendicular to the cross grain.
2. Clip the waist line fabric at the center of the princess panel.
From the bottom edge up to the waist seam tape.
3. The excess fabric between the center front waist positions
becomes the front waist dart. Drape and pin the excess
fabric in place on the princess seam as the front waist dart.
Excess fabric is folded toward the center front.
4. Smooth and drape the reminder of the waist line fabric
across the waist tape till the fabric passes the side seam pin
the side seam waist corner. Also drape the reminder of the
front side seam pass the side seam and flat arm plate. Pin in
place.
5. Drape the neckline by trimming the excess fabric around the
neck area and clipping at internals. Smooth the neckline in
place. Drape and smooth the fabric over the shoulder seam
of the dress form. Just pass the princess seam pin in place.

6. The excess fabric that falls between the neckline and the
shoulder/ armhole area becomes the amount of the
shoulder dart this amount various from one bust size to
another.
1. Fold and pin this excess fabric on the shoulder princess
seam of the dress from. The excess fabric is folded towards
the center front neck.
2. Mark all key areas of the dress form to the fabric.
1. Neck line
Cross mark at center front neck and at neckline corner
lightly mark reminder of neck line.
2. Shoulder seam and shoulder dart.
a.)Top at shoulder seam ridge.
b.) Middle at screw level.
c.) Cross mark bottom at side seam.
3. Waist line and waist dart.
4. Side seam lightly mark cross mark center front waist at
Side Seam and both side of the dart.

BASIC BODICE BLOCK
PREPARING THE FABRIC- BACK
1. Measure length for the back bodice along the straight of
grain from the neck band to the waist and add 5 inches.
2. Measure the width of for the back bodice along the cross
grain from the center back seam at the under arm and add 5
inches.
3. Draw the center back grain line 1“from the torn edge and
press under.
1. Cross mark the center back neck line position 3 inches below
the top of the fabric on the center back grain line.

2. Measure down 41/4” from the back neck line mark. Using an
l-square ruler draw a perfect cross grain line at this position
(This is considered the shoulder blade level).
NOTE:-This 41/4” measurement represents one fourth of
the distance from center back neck to waist for a size 8 or 10
women’s figure.
Also, measure the distance from center back to the arm
plate at the shoulder level of the dress from. Measure and
cross mark this back shoulder distance on the fabric at the
shoulder blade level line.

BASIC BODICE BLOCK
DRAPING STEPS – BACK
1. Pin the center front grain line fold of the fabric to the center
back position on the dress from.
Align the neck line position mark of the fabric to the center
back neck position on the dress from.
2. Pin and drape the back cross grain line of the fabric to the
shoulder blade level on the dress from. Pin the arm plate
cross mark ¼” away from plate (At armhole ridge).
Distribute excess ease along shoulder blade level.

NOTE:-This line is correctly draped in to position when the drape
hangs freckly and evenly without any drag or pulled
down look. Also, the lower edge of the drape shoulder hangs
parallel to the floor.
1. Drape in the back waist line dart (7”long and 11/4”wide)
Smooth the fabric towards the side seam till the fabric
passes the princess seam.
Cross mark at the princess/ Waist seam measure and cross

mark 7” up from the waist line on the back princess seam.
At the waist line fold the princess seam cross mark to the
11/4” mark. Taper the dart to nothing at the 7”mark.
2. Clip the waist line fabric at the center of the princess panel
up to the button of the waist seam tape. Smooth the fabric
across the waist tape till the fabric passes the side seam. Pin
at the side seam/ waist corner.
3. Drape the back side seam by smoothing the fabric pat the
side seam and flat over the dress from pin in place.
4. Drape and smooth the back neck line by carefully trimming
the excess fabric around the neck area and clipping at
intervals. Continue to smooth the fabric over the shoulder of
the dress form and pin in place.
5. Drape in the back shoulder dart (3”long and ½”wide) straight
at the neck line. Smooth the fabric over the shoulder seam
of the dress form to the princess seam and cross mark on
the princess seam at the shoulder, measure towards the
armhole ½” and cross mark. Also on the princess seam
measure down 3” from the shoulder seam. Fold the fabric
from the shoulder seam cross mark to the ½” cross mark.
Taper the dart to nothing at the 3” cross mark.
6. Mark all key area of the dress from to the fabric.
· Neck line
Cross mark at center back neck and at neck line/
shoulder corner. Lightly mark remainder of neck line.
· Shoulder seam and shoulder dart.
· Lightly mark shoulder seam and cross mark shoulder
dart and shoulder ridge corner.
· Arm plate.
a) Top at shoulder seam ridge.

b) Middle at screw level.
c) Bottom at the side seam cross mark.
· Side seam – lightly mark
· Waist line and waist dart seam waist and both side of
the dart.
Check the drape by spinning the front and back side seam
and front and back shoulder seam together before
proceeding to the next steps.
1. Remove the fabric from the dress from and lay flat on table.
If you are planning to true up the fabric on the paper
complete the following steps.
a) Draw in the straight of grain and cross grain on the
pattern paper. Place the fabric on top of the paper.
Notching the straight of grain and cross grain.
b) With a trace wheel, transfer all the fabric markings on the
paper.
2. Draw a short go degree angle at-
Center front neck (1/4”)
Center front waist (1/2”)
Center back neck (1”)
Center back waist (1”)
1. Draw in the front darts using a straight ruler.
Front waist darts (1” from the open through the waist dart
cross mark)
Front shoulder dart (1” from the open through the shoulder
dart cross mark)
Back waist dart (vanishing point through waist dart cross
mark)
Back shoulder dart (vanishing point to back waist dart
through shoulder dart connect other shoulder dart cross

mark.

PRINCESS PANEL



1. Measure the length for the front and back panel (along the
straight of grain) from the neck band to the waist and add 5”
snip and tear the fabric this length.
2. Fold the fabric from selvage to selvage and snip and tear the
fabric piece in half length wise.
Use one piece for the front panels and the other piece for
the back panel.
1. Measure the width for the center front panel (along the
cross grain) from the center front of the dress from to the
princess seam at the apex, and add 4”.
Using one of the fabric pieces prepared in step 2, snip and
tear the fabric this width.
Use the remaining front piece for the side front panel.
2. Measure the width for the center back panel from the
center back of the dress from to the back princess seam at
the shoulder blade level.
And add 4”. Using the second fabric piece prepared in step 2
snip and tear the fabric this width.
Use the remaining back fabric piece for the side back panel.
3. Draw the grain line for the center front panel 1” from the
torn edge press under.
4. Draw the cross grain line for the front panel in the center of
the both panel.
5. Measure the dress form from center front to the apex,

measure and cross mark the apex this distance of the cross
grain line.
6. Draw the grain line for the center back panel 1” from the
torn edge. Press under.
Draw the grain line for the side back panel in the center of
the fabric piece.
7. Draw the cross grain line for both back panels 8” from the
top of the fabric edge.
THE PRINCESS BODICEBLOCK
DRAPING STEPS
CENTER FRONT PANEL


1. Pin the apex cross marks on the fabric to the apex position
on the dress from.
2. Pin the center front grain line fold of the fabric to the center
position of the dress from.
Anchor pins at center front neck and center front waist. An
additional pin may be needed at the bust level tape.
3. Drape the neck line trimming the excess fabric around the
neck area and clipping at intervals. Smooth the neck line in
place.
4. Drape and smooth the waist line place from center front to
just past the princess seam. Pin in place.
5. Mark all key area of the dress from on the center front
panel.

· Neck line
· Waist line
· Princess seam and style line

· Notches
· Shoulder seam
6. True up center front panel. Add seam allowance and trim all
excess fabric place panel back on the dress from.
SIDE FRONT PRINCESS PANEL
1. Pin the grain line of the side front panel to the center of the
front princess panel on the dress from matching the cross
grain of the side seam bust panel to the cross grain of the
center front panel.
Anchors pins on the cross grain at the bust level. Place
another anchor pin on the straight of grain at the waist line.
1. Clip the waist line at the center of the front princess panel
up to the bottom of the waist line seam tape.
Drape and smooth the waist line on place.
2. From the grain line to the side front panel smooth the fabric
past the side seam of the dress from do not allow the grain
line to slip out of position. Pin the side seam in place.
3. Drape the shoulder by carefully smoothing the excess fabric
above the bust level up and over the dress from.

NOTE: - The grain line will look as if it is angled toward the
neck line.
4. Smooth the fabric over the princess seam add pin the
princess seam in place.

NOTE: - The excess fabric will drape over the bust level area
creating ease at the princess seam between the notches.
5. Mark all key areas of the dress from on the side front panel.
Princess seam and style line notches (match the center front
panel notches)

Arm plate
Shoulder seam at ridge
Middle of plate at screw level
Bottom of plate at side seam
Shoulder seam
Side seam
Waist line
1. Remove the side front panel from the dress from and true
up all the lines. Add seam allowance.
Trim excess fabric, leaving all seams allowance. Pin to front
panel and return to check seam notches and balance.


THE PRINCESS BODICEBLOCK
DRAPING STEPS
CENTER BACK PRINCESS PANNEL
1. Pin the center back grain line fold of the fabric to the center
back position of the dress from.
Align and line the cross grain to the shoulder blade level of
the dress from.
1. Drape and smooth the back waist line from center back to
just pass the princess seam. Pin the waist line in place.
2. Drape and smooth the back neck line by carefully trimming
the excess fabric around the neck area and clipping at
intervals.
Continue to smooth the fabric over the shoulder of the dress
from and pin in place.
1. Mark all key areas of the dress from on the center back
panel
Neck line

Waist line
Shoulder seam
Back princess seam and style line notches (a double notch is
used in the back)

2. Remove the center back panel drape from and true up all
lines. Add seam allowance trim all excess fabric, leaving all
seam allowance. Place this center back drape on the dress
from.

THE PRINCESS BODICE BLOCK
DRAPING STEPS
SIDE BACK PRINCESS PANEL
1. Pin the grain line of the side back panel to the center of the
back princess panel on the dress from matching all cross
grain at the shoulder blade.
2. Clip the waist line at the side back panel up to the bottom of
the waist seam tape. Smooth and pin the waist line in place.
3. From the grain of the side back panel. Smooth the fabric
past the side seam of the dress from. Do not allow the grain
line to slip out of position. Pin the side seam in place.
4. Drape the shoulder by smoothing the excess fabric from
above the shoulder level up and over the shoulder seam of
the dress from.
NOTE: - The grain line will look as if it is angle toward the
neck line (over the cross grain).
1. From the grain line of the side back panel smooth the fabric
past the princess seam of the dress from. Do not allow the
grain line to slip out of position. Pin the princess seam in
place.

2. Mark all key areas of the dress from on the side back panel.
Princess seam and style line notches (match to center back
panel double notches)
Arm plate
Shoulder seam at ridge.
Middle of plate at screw level.
Bottom of plate at side seam
Side waist
Waist line
3. Remove the drape from and true up all lines. Add seam
allowance trim all excess fabric, leaving all seam allowance.
Pin the entire garment together and place the drape on the
dress from check for accuracy fit and hang.

THE TORSO LENGTH PRINCESS BODICE BLOCK
DRAPING THE FABRIC

1. Measure the length for the front and back panel (along the
straight grain) from the neck band to the hip area and add
5”. Snip the tear the fabric this length.
2. Fold the fabric from salvage to salvage snip and tear the
fabric piece in half length wise.
Use one piece for the front panel and the other piece for the
back panel.
3. Measure the width for the center panel (along the cross
grain) from front of the dress from to the princess seam at
the open and add 5”.
Snip and tear the fabric this width use the remaining fabric
piece for the side front panel.
4. Draw the grain line for the center front panel 1” from the

torn edge. Press under.
5. Draw the grain line for the side front panel in the center of
the fabric piece.
6. Draw the cross grain lines for the front and side front panel
12” from the top edge of the fabric.
7. Measure the dress from center front to the open. Measure
and cross mark the apex. This distance on the center front
panel on the cross grain line.
8. Draw the grain line for the center back panel 1” from the
torn edge. Press under.
Draw the grain line for the side back panel, in the center of
the fabric piece.
9. Draw the cross grain line for both back panels 8". From the
top of the fabric edge.

THE TORSO LENGTH PRINCESS BODICE BLOCK
DRAPING STEPS
CENTER FRONT TORSO PRINCESS PANEL


1. Pin the open cross mark on the fabric to the open position
on the dress from.
2. Pin the center front grain line fold of the fabric on the center
position of the dress from. Anchor pins at center front neck
and center front hip. An additional pin may be needed at the
bust level tape.
3. Drape the neck line by trimming the excess fabric around
the neck area and clipping a intervals. Smooth the neck line
in place.
Drape and smooth the shoulder over the shoulder seam of

the dress from just past the princess seam. Pin in place.
4. Clip the waist line at the princess seam. Drape and smooth
the fabric of the center front panel just past the princess
seam.
NOTE: - The fabric at the waist line will be smooth but not
snug tight.
1. Mark all key areas of the dress from on the center front
panel.
Neck line
Princess seam and style line notches (2” above and below
open)
Shoulder seam
2. True up the center front panel. Add seam allowance trim all
excess fabric leaving. Place back on the dress from.

THE TORSO LENGTH PINCESS BODICE BLOCK
DRAPING STEPS
SIDE FRONT TORSO PRINCESS PANEL

1. Pin the grain line of the side front panel to the center of the
front princess panel on the dress from notching the cross
grain of the side bust panel to the cross grain at the bust
level. Place another anchor pin on the straight of grain at the
waist line.
2. Clip the waist line at the side seam of the side front panel.
From the grain line of the side front panel. Smooth the fabric
past the side seam.
Continue to smooth the fabric flat over the arm plate. Do
not allow the grain line to slip out of position. Pin the side
seam in place.

1. Drape the shoulder by carefully smoothing the excess fabric
above the bust level up and over the shoulder of the dress
from.

NOTE: - The grain line will look as if it is angled toward the
neck line above the bust level.
2. Clip the waist line at the princess seam smooth the fabric
over the princess seam and pin in place.
NOTE: - The excess fabric will drape over the bust level
area creating ease at the princess seam between the notches.
3. Mark all key area of the dress from on the side front panel.
a.) Princess seam and style line notches (match to center
front panel notches).
b.) Arm plate
Shoulder seam at ridge.
Middle of plate at screw level
Bottom of plot at side seam
c.) Shoulder seam
d.) Side seam
4. Remove the side front panel from the dress from and true
up all lines. Add seam allowance.
Trim all excess fabric, leaving all seam allowance pin to front
panel front and place on the dress from to check seams,
notches and balance.


THE TORSO LENGTH PRINCESS BODICE BLOCK
DRAPING STEPS
SIDE FRONT TORSO PRINCESS PANEL
1. Pin the grain line of the side back panel to the center of back

princess panel on the dress form matching all cross grain at
the shoulder blade level.
2. Clip the waist line at the side seam. Drape and smooth fabric
past the side seam and flat over the dress form. Pin in place.
3. Drape the shoulder by smoothing the excess fabric from
above the shoulder blade level up and over the shoulder
seam of the dress form.

NOTE: - The grain line will look as if it is angled toward the
neckline (above the cross grain)
4. Clip the waist line at the princess seam of the side back
panel. From the grain line of the side back panel. Smooth
the fabric past the princess seam of the dress form. Do not
allow the grain line to slip out of position. Pin the princess
seam in place.
5. Mark all key areas of the dress form on the side back
Panel.
- Princess seam and style line notches
(Match to center back panel double notches)
- Arm plate
- Shoulder seam at ridge
- Middle of plate at screw level
- Shoulder seam
- Side seam.
1. Remove the drape from the dress form and true up all lines.
Add seam allowance. Trim all excess fabric leaving all seam
allowance.
Pin the entire garment together and place the drape on the
dress form. Check for accuracy, fit and hang.

THE TORSO LENGTH PRINCESS BODICE BLOCK
DRAPINGBSTEPS
CENTER BACK TORSO PRINCESS PANEL

1. Pin the center back grain line fold of the fabric to the
center back position of the dress from.
Align and pin the cross grain to the shoulder blade level of
the dress from.
2. Drape and smooth the back neck line by carefully
trimming the excess fabric around the neck area and
clipping at intervals.
Continue to drape and smooth the shoulder over the
shoulder of the dress from and pin in place.
3. Clip the waist line at the princess seam. Drape and
smooth the fabric pat the princess seam and pin in
place.
Note: - The waist areas will drape smoothly. But will not be
snug tight.
1. Mark all key area of the dress form on the center back
panel.
- Neck line
- Shoulder seam
- Back princess seam and style line notches.
- (A double notch is used in back)
2. Remove the center back panel drape from the dress
form and true up all lines. Add seam allowance. Trim,
leaving all seam allowance. Place.

THE BASIC STRAIGHT SKIRT BLOCK

PREPARING THE
FRONT


1. Preparing the dress form measure down 7” from the waist
line on the center front of the dress form .This is the hip
level. Place will tape (or measuring tape) parallel to the
dress form at this hip level and remove the tape.
2. Measure the length (along the cross grain) for the front and
back skirt from 2” above the waist to the bottom of the
dress form. Add 4” ship and tear the fabric this length.
1. Measure the width (along the cross grain) for the front and
back skirt at the hip level from to the side seam. Add 3” ship
and tear the fabric this width.
2. Draw the center front center back grain lines on the fabric
1” from the turn edge. Press under.
3. Mark the center front waist position measure down 2” from
the top of the fabric at the center front fold pencil in a waist
line mark at the position.

4. Using on (l-square ruler, draw perfect cross grain at the hip
level for the front and back skirt. On the skirt front, measure
down 7” from the waist line mark on the skirt back, measure
down 9” on the grain line) from the top of the fabric .

5. Determined the front side seam. Measure from center front
to the side seam (at the hip level) and add ½” ease. Transfer
this measurement to the fabric. Using the mark draw a side
seams perfectly parallel to the center front grain line.

6. Determined the back side seam. Measure from center back
to the side seams (at the hip level) and add ½” for ease.
Transfer this measurement to the fabric. Using this mark,
draw a side seams perfectly parallel to the center back grain
line.

1. Draw a second line ¾” from the side seam on both the front
and back skirt .This line will be used to help drape in the
waist line.

THE BASIC STRAIGTH SKIRT BLOCK
DRAPING STEP FRONT

1. Pin the center front grain line fold of the fabric on the center
front position of the dress from matching the cross grain of
the fabric to the hip level on the dress from.
2. Smooth and pin the cross grain to the fabric (evenly
distributing the ease) across the dress from to the side
seam.
Be sure the fabric cross grain is parallel to the floor and the
side seam match.
Pin the cross grain and side seam (below the hip level) to the
dress from.
3. Carefully drape and pin the front ¾” line to the side seam/
waist of the dress from.
NOTE: - When this side seam/ waist corner is draped
correctly, a slight gap will occur automatically at the side
seam above the hip level.
4. Drape in two darts at the front waist line. Smooth the fabric
from the center front to the princess seam.