QUALITY CONTROL SYSTEMS USED IN APPAREL INDUSTRY

Page 1


QUALITY CONTROL SYSTEMS USED IN APPAREL INDUSTRY

PROJECT SUPERVISOR:
MR.BABIR RAMZAN

PROJECT MEMBERS:

Syed khuram Hassan

bet-sp07-003

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING
THE UNIVERSITY OF FAISALABAD
PAKISTAN

Page 2


We hereby declare that this project, neither as a whole nor as a part therefore has been
copied out from any source. It is further declared that we develop this project and this
report entirely on the basis of our personal efforts made under the sincere guidance of our
project supervisor Sir Babar Ramzan.

We further declare that this project and all associated documents and records and partial
requirement for the degree of Bachelor of Science in Textile Engineering (Garments
technology)

Page 3

WITH THE DEEP SENSE OF HONOUR
TO OUR BELOVED AND DEAREST
PARENTS & BROTHERS
RESPECTED TEACHERS
AND ALL THOSE
WHO DEVOTED THEIR YESTERDAY FOR
OUR
BRIGHT TODAY

Page 4


With the blessings of almighty ALLAH and prayers of our parents we made this humble
attempt to achieve the goal that we set for us in the beginning of final year. Although it
was not an easy task but with the devotion of our project team and cooperation of our
respected teachers we have at least succeeded in completion of our project.

The support and encouragement rendered by our CHENAB TEXTILE MILL staff was
very vital in the completion of this project, their guidance and encouragement played a
key role in the planning and completion of this project.

We are also very thankful to the Head of Department of Textile Engineering
Mr.NAVEED AKHTAR for facilitating us. We are very thankful to our project advisor
MR.BABIR RAMZAN for his guidance and providing us the facilities which was the real
source of inspiration for the completion of this project.

In the end we are thankful to all the lab attendants and staff members without the
cooperation of whom the achievement of this goal would have been a dream only.

Page 5


Page 6


Contents
Contents...................................................................................................................................................................7
Chapter#1...............................................................................................................................................................11
INTRODUCTION TO QUALITY AND COST OF QUALITY.............................................................................................11
1.0. INTRODUCTION...........................................................................................................................................12
1.1.PRINCIPLES OF QUALITY CONTROL...............................................................................................................14
1.2.THE ROLE OF QUALITY CONTROL..................................................................................................................15
1.3. QUALITY TERMS...........................................................................................................................................15
1.4.RESPONSIBILITIES OF QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPATMENT............................................................................15
1.5.DIMENSIONS OF QUALITY.............................................................................................................................16
1.6.THE COST OF QUALITY..................................................................................................................................18
1.6.0.Introduction...........................................................................................................................................18
1.6.1.Importance of Cost of Quality in Apparel Sector...................................................................................19
1.7.THE ATTACK ON COSTS.................................................................................................................................20
1.8.CONTROLLING COSTS...................................................................................................................................21
1.8.0.Classification of Cost of Quality in Apparel Sector.................................................................................22
Chapter#2...............................................................................................................................................................24
FABRIC INSPECTION

SYSTEMS...................................................................................................................24

2.1. FABRIC QUALITY INSPECTION......................................................................................................................25
2.2. Four- Point System.......................................................................................................................................25

2.1.0Advantages.............................................................................................................................................26
2.3.TEN POINT SYSTEM.......................................................................................................................................28
2.3.0.Advantages............................................................................................................................................29
2.3.1.Disadvantage.........................................................................................................................................29
2.4.GRANITEVILLE’78 SYSTEM............................................................................................................................29
2.5. DALLAS SYSTEM ..........................................................................................................................................30
2.6. CONCLUSION...............................................................................................................................................30
Chapter #3..............................................................................................................................................................31
SPREADING AND CUTTING QUALITY CONTROL SYSTEM.........................................................................................31
............................................................................................................................................................................... 31
3.1. QUALITY CONTROL BEFORE SPREADING......................................................................................................32
3.2. SPREADING QUALITY SPECIFICATIONS.........................................................................................................32

Page 7


3.3. Fabric Spreading Objective..........................................................................................................................32
3.4. THE REQUIREMENTS OF THE SPREADING PROCESS.....................................................................................33
3.5. Type of Spreads...........................................................................................................................................34
3.6. General Fabric Spreading System................................................................................................................34
3.7. Conclusion...................................................................................................................................................36
3.8.1Cutting (Manual).....................................................................................................................................36
3.8.2. Cutting (Auto).......................................................................................................................................36
3.9. Cut components inspection.....................................................................................................................37
3.10. Cutting Room Functions.........................................................................................................................37
3.11. Requirements of Pattern Cutting...........................................................................................................37
3.16. Safety Instructions in Handling Cutting..................................................................................................38
3.13.Numbering..............................................................................................................................................39
3.14.Sorting, Bundling, Storage and transfer for Production..........................................................................39
3.15. Panel Checking System..........................................................................................................................39

3.16. Conventional cut parts inspection System.............................................................................................39
3.17. Conclusion.............................................................................................................................................40
Chapter #4..............................................................................................................................................................41
STITCHING QUALITY CONTROL SYSTEMS................................................................................................................41
4.1. STITCHING....................................................................................................................................................42
4.2. 7-0 system...................................................................................................................................................42
4.2.1. Advantages...........................................................................................................................................42
4.2.2.Disadvantages........................................................................................................................................42
4.3. TRAFFIC LIGHT SYSTEM................................................................................................................................43
4.3.1. Advantages...........................................................................................................................................45
4.3.2. Disadvatages.........................................................................................................................................45
4.4. Conventional Quality Control System..........................................................................................................46
4.5. Random Inspection System:........................................................................................................................46
4.6. GUIDE LINES TO QUALITY CONTROL IN STITCHING DEPARTMENT..............................................................46
4.7. Conclusion...................................................................................................................................................47
Chapter#5...............................................................................................................................................................48
SAMPLING & FINAL INSPECTION METHODS...........................................................................................................48
5.1. Cutting.........................................................................................................................................................48

Page 8


5.2.Sewing..........................................................................................................................................................49
5.2.1.Potential Major faults ...........................................................................................................................49
5.2.2.Potential minor faults............................................................................................................................50
5.3. Embroidery..................................................................................................................................................51
5.4. Printing........................................................................................................................................................52
5.5. Finishing and packaging...............................................................................................................................53
5.6. Final Audit....................................................................................................................................................54
5.7. Clipping Inspection......................................................................................................................................54

5.8. Final inspection............................................................................................................................................54
5.9. Pressing Inspection

.................................................................................................................58

5.10. SPECS INSPECTION.....................................................................................................................................58
5.11. Folding and Presentation (or Hanger Pack)...............................................................................................58
5.12. Packing inspection.....................................................................................................................................59
5.13. Conclusion.................................................................................................................................................59
References .............................................................................................................................................................60
From Websites:...................................................................................................................................................60
From Persons:.....................................................................................................................................................61

Page 9


Page
10


Chapter#1
INTRODUCTION TO QUALITY AND
COST OF QUALITY

Page
11


1.0. INTRODUCTION
Garment manufacturing is quit different to any other conventional manufacturing. it is not a continuous

production method. Each style is different product that requires different type of fabric color buttons
thread etc.
Hence requirement of product integrity at every stage requires detailed knowledge about the quality
parameters, quality problems, their causes and remedies. For quality production it is better to know the
complete process of garment making (selection of yarn-fabric production and garment manufacturing)
so that quality level can be improved.
If one say "improve quality improve productivity" with out showing how when and where we can
improve it. That will not solve the problem. Instead of that we should try to draw the attention of work
force towards the shortcomings inherent in the quality systems and processes.
To ensure a quality product

the first step that manufacturer should take is the quality control and the

evaluation of input material.
The factories that control/ensure the fabric quality level don’t have worers with necessary skill level and
understanding. They don’t understand the types and inherent nature and characteristics of the fabric.
Some characters, which appear as fabric defect, may be nature of another type of fabric. There were
many instances where fabric is rejected due to this misunderstanding. There are no proper training
facilities courses, and material available in our country to enhance the knowledge of workers engaged in
knitwear production.
At present technological level, it impossible for any fabric mil to manufacture absolutely defect free
fabric. To control and evaluate the fabric and garment quality.

What is Quality?
Quality is unusually slippery and difficult to come to grip with. Therefore some might say “Quality is
something I know when I see it.
To some Quality is difficult to be explained like love or happiness. Once the concept of Quality is
understood fundamentally it stops being slippery and becomes something which can hold by its tail.

Page

12


According to dictionary Quality is: - an essential character: nature, an ingredient or distinguishing
attribute: property, a character trait, superiority of kind, degree of grade or excellence.
Different people have different views about quality.
•

The best money can buy

•

Meeting a specification or conformance to specifications.

•

Craftsmanship

•

The degree of excellence that an item possesses.

•

Product with no defect found

•

Absence of variation in its broad sense.

•

Meeting or exceeding customer expectation.

These responses depend on people’s perception of the value of a product or service under consideration
and their explanation of performance, durability, reliability etc. of that product or service.

Customer satisfaction
The key is to know accurately customer expectations on a continuing basis. Unless you know customer
expectations how could you satisfy a customer or meet or exceed their expectations.
For this it is essential to understand the 5w’s
Why
When
Where

The customer is not satisfied???

What
Who
Therefore understanding the customer need is the priority in the Quality of a product.

Why do we buy a product?
We buy a product because we want to use that product.If the product that you bought has some
deficiency you will not be satisfied. Then you say that the product that you bought is defective, and you

Page
13


will be mentally worried every time you make use of the product and physically too you may not feel

comfortable. Therefore Quality is also defined as “fitness for use”.
“The fitness for use” concept can be applied to garments too. For a garment to be fit for use provided its
style is acceptable: •

It must be free from defects such as stain, material (fabric) defects, open seams, loose hanging
broken stitches, Skip/Slip stitches, puckered seams, misaligned components/buttons/buttonholes,
defective trims and accessories etc.

•

It must fit properly for the label size.

•

It must look attractive.

•

It must perform satisfactorily in normal use that a garment must be able to withstand normal
laundering/dry cleaning/pressing cycles. Without loss of color or shrinkage; seams must not
come apart; fabric must not tear, etc.

“Quality is a matter of your taste, training and attitude, and your understanding of taste, culture and
attitudes of your buyers.
The better the understanding between two, the better the quality”

1.1.PRINCIPLES OF QUALITY CONTROL
The essential requirements for producing a reliable product has been stated as follows:A satisfactory design of product, thoroughly proved by adequate development testing in order to
establish its reliability under the conditions to which it will be subjected in use. This is the Requisite
Quality of the product. A full specification of the requirements of this quality, which must be clearly

understood by everyone concerned with the production of the constituent parts and of the complete end
product. Confirmation that the manufacturing processes are capable of meeting these requirements. Full
acceptance, by all those concerned with production, of the responsibility for meeting the standards set by
the specification. Checks on the product at every stage of manufacture to detect any departures from the
specification. Record essential information derived from these checks to provide accurate evidence for
action. Establishment of lines of communication, - i.e. Feedback to Production, - to ensure that this
action is taken to effect the appropriate adjustments to materials, process and operatives to maintain

Page
14


FUTURE production within the specification. Instruction in the use, applications and limitations of the
product. A study of user experience, feedback to the department's concerned, and rapid remedial action.

1.2.THE ROLE OF QUALITY CONTROL
In a total quality control scheme, the total involvement of all personnel is required as a philosophy.
The staff concerned in all duties must be given authority to carry out their functions. These functions
should be defined.
Lines of communication and responsibility should be established to carry out an effective policy.
Horizontal communication at all levels of personnel between Quality Control, Production and other
departments is needed. Also there must be vertical lines, which follow the lines of responsibility and
authority. In order to achieve this aim, the terms of reference under which staff work, must be
established. This is, perhaps, best accomplished by job descriptions. It is the job of Quality Control to
establish the correct information concerning a quality situation, and present this clearly to their
colleagues. Persons outside Quality Control must be authorised to make the commercial decisions
involved from a pre-established series of options, the consequences of each being fully understood.
Payment schemes should be re-examined where necessary to reward quality as well as production, in a
balanced way, since both are commercially important.

1.3. QUALITY TERMS
Quality
“ It is defined as that combination of design and properties of materials of a product which are needed
for the intended end use and level of the market in which it is sold”

Quality Control
"The systems required for programming and co-coordinating the efforts of the various groups in an
organization to maintain the requisite quality" As such Quality Control is seen as the agent of Quality
Assurance or Total Quality Control.

Quality Assurance
"The establishment and maintenance of all activities and functions concerned with the attainment of
requisite quality"

1.4.RESPONSIBILITIES OF QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPATMENT
INDULGE AND MONITOR QUALITY SYSTEMS
Page
15


The Q/A dept is required to induce the Q/C dept to implement standard quality systems required by
buyers to improve and

maintain a very good OQL.The implemented quality system should be

monitored on a daily basis. So that the system runs without any failure. Under no circumstances the
systems should be changed or stopped.The quality system should be very strong so that nothing could
penetrate through and result in failure of audits or re-screening.
TRAINING AND EVALUATING QUALITY STAFF
It is the prime responsibility of the senior quality staff to train all the Q/A staff toAchieve skilled

levels within a short frame of time.The Q/A dept in coordination with the production dept and Q/C dept
should train the Q/C team to achieve skilled levels.A training program should be designed which will
enable to execute simple and proper training to enhance the skill levels of Q/C and Q/A staff up to
standard.The Q/A department will evaluate all the inline and final quality control inspectors on their
performance.The evaluation will be based on the over all quality level less than 4 % for any merit or
reward systems.

ASSURE THE QUALITY OF PRODUCTS
Q/A will performance audits at cutting stage to assure the cut products to confirm required quality
standard at OQL 1.5 %.The inline Q/A Auditor will perform random audits to assure stitching quality of
products. The objective will be to inspect and identify the problems and give Corrective action to the
root cause of the problems, The Q/A auditor will highlight the problems to the Q/C dept for corrective
action. The inline audits will be conducted at A.Q.L 1.5 with a view of preventing re-occurrence of the
problems. The Finishing Q/A officers will audit finished goods before packing with the same .Objective
and concentrate more on the presentation of the final products. The audit will be conducted at A.Q.L 1.5.
The Final Q/A Auditor will conduct audit for quality and specs. The final auditor will also conduct
packing audit to ensure the Ratio, Color, Cartoning, Packing accuracy, Presentation, Packing
accessories, CTN marks and numbers etc.

1.5.DIMENSIONS OF QUALITY
Dimension 1: Performance
Does the product or service do what it is supposed to do, within its defined tolerances?

Page
16


Performance is often a source of contention between customers and suppliers, particularly when
deliverables are not adequately defined within specifications.
The performance of a product often influences profitability or reputation of the end-user. As such, many

contracts or specifications include damages related to inadequate performance.

Dimension 2: Features
Does the product or services possess all of the features specified, or required for its intended purpose?
While this dimension may seem obvious, performance specifications rarely define the features required
in a product. Thus, it’s important that suppliers designing product or services from performance
specifications are familiar with its intended uses, and maintain close relationships with the end-users.

Dimension 3: Reliability
Will the product consistently perform within specifications?
Reliability may be closely related to performance. For instance, a product specification may define
parameters for up-time, or acceptable failure rates.
Reliability is a major contributor to brand or company image, and is considered a fundamental
dimension of quality by most end-users.

Dimension 4: Conformance
Does the product or service conform to the specification?
If it’s developed based on a performance specification, does it perform as specified? If it’s developed
based on a design specification, does it possess all of the features defined?

Dimension 5: Durability
How long will the product perform or last, and under what conditions?
Durability is closely related to warranty. Requirements for product durability are often included within
procurement contracts and specifications.
For instance, fighter aircraft procured to operate from aircraft carriers include design criteria intended to
improve their durability in the demanding naval environment.

Dimension 6: Serviceability
Is the product relatively easy to maintain and repair?

Page
17


As end users become more focused on Total Cost of Ownership than simple procurement costs,
serviceability (as well as reliability) is becoming an increasingly important dimension of quality and
criteria for product selection.

Dimension 7: Aesthetics
The way a product looks is important to end-users. The aesthetic properties of a product contribute to a
company’s or brand’s identity. Faults or defects in a product that diminish its aesthetic properties, even
those that do not reduce or alter other dimensions of quality, are often cause for rejection.

Dimension 8: Perception
Perception is reality. The product or service may possess adequate or even superior dimensions of
quality, but still fall victim to negative customer or public perceptions.
As an example, a high quality product may get the reputation for being low quality based on poor
service by installation or field technicians. If the product is not installed or maintained properly, and
fails as a result, the failure is often associated with the product’s quality.
Summary
It should be obvious from the discussion above that the individual dimensions of quality are not
necessarily distinct. Depending on the industry, situation, and type of contract or specification several or
all of the above dimensions may be interdependent.
When designing, developing or manufacturing a product (or delivering a service) the interactions
between the dimensions of quality must be understood and taken into account.
While these dimensions may not constitute a complete list of relevant dimensions, taking them into
consideration should provide us with a better understanding of the slippery concept of quality.

1.6.THE COST OF QUALITY
1.6.0.Introduction

A manufacturer stays in business only as long as his product quality satisfies his customers at the price
they are prepared to pay.
Failure to maintain an adequate quality standard can therefore be disastrous. But maintaining an
adequate standard of quality also costs effort. From the first investigation to find out what the potential
customer for a new product really wants, through the processes of design, specification, controlled
manufacture and sale, to the arrangements for sales service to the customer, effort is being spent on

Page
18


ensuring that the company's product - and reputation - are good. If it is spent wisely, it can result in
savings greater than the increase in costs, and hence in an improvement to profits.
The costs represented by this effort can be a significant proportion of the products sales value (Do you
know what the total is in your Company? In some instances the cost of scrap, rework and inspection
costs alone has been found to be as high as 20% of turn-over) and any manufacturer should be interested
in making sure that he is getting good value for his expenditure. He cannot feel sure unless he has
studied what the costs are, how they are incurred and what they ought to be. If they are higher than they
should be, he must consider ways in which they can be reduced.

1.6.1.Importance of Cost of Quality in Apparel Sector
Cost of Quality (COQ) in the apparel sector is still a widely understood misconception. The term often
gets associated incorrectly with the price of creating quality merchandise. Actually, it is the other way
round i.e. the amount of money incurred because the product was not manufactured right at the first
time. Thus, the concept of quality costs in the garment industry is a means to quantify the total cost
involved in quality-related efforts and deficiencies pertains to a manufactured apparel product.
Although it is not very easy to calculate COQ for any industry, research shows that the costs of poor
quality can range from 15%-40% of business costs (e.g. rework, returns or complaints, reduced service
levels, lost revenue). Most of the apparel units do not know what their quality costs are because they do
not keep records on a daily basis. A large portion of resources is consumed in finding and correcting

mistakes in the merchandise or related processes. Typically, the cost to eliminate a failure in the
customer phase is five times greater than it is at the merchandise development or manufacturing phase.
Every time work is redone, the cost of quality increases. The obvious examples in the apparel sector
include:
•

The reworking of a garment

•

The retesting of performance of apparel

•

The rebuilding of a garment machine

•

The correction of an apparel size specification sheet or change of care label

•

The reprocessing of garment to improve dimensional stability after wash or the replacement of a
trim to fulfill the requirement of a customer or to meet safety issues.

Page
19


In general, the cost of quality has two main components: the cost of good quality (or the cost of

conformance) and the cost of poor quality (or the cost of non-conformance) according to Philip B
Crosby in his book Quality Is Free.
The cost of poor quality affects internal and external costs resulting from failing to meet the
requirements specified for an apparel product by the garment industry. On the other hand, the cost of
good quality affects the cost for investing in the prevention of nonconformance to requirements and the
costs for appraising the apparel product for conformance to requirements.

1.7.THE ATTACK ON COSTS
Obviously, the most significant improvements will usually be achieved by concentrating effort on the
areas of high cost. For this purpose an analysis of the principal costs is required. Studies have shown that
a fairly typical ratio between the three main groups of costs in a manufacturing company is:
•

Prevention Costs 5%

•

Appraisal Costs 30%

•

Failure Costs - 65%

Failure Costs, because they are typically the largest, will usually give the largest return for the effort
involved in reducing them. An effective way of attacking Failure Costs is through a temporary increase
in prevention and appraisal costs.
Appraisal Costs - for example, the cost of production and inspection - might be reduced by more
attention to Value Engineering, which would to some extent increase prevention costs, and a closer
control of the manufacturing process, which would increase appraisal costs.
Appraisal Costs will usually be the next to come under attack. An analysis of all essential quality control

operations will often show opportunities for reducing expenditure without reducing effectiveness. For
example, statistical sampling techniques may be used as a means of control, indicating trends in
performance and assisting to maintain quality. By improving the control of the process, 100 per cent
inspection may no longer be necessary.
Total costs will be lowest when design staff are aware of the cost implications of their work. Good
design saves cost not only at the design stage itself but throughout production and testing: products
become easier to make "right first time". Good design is needed not only when conceiving the product

Page
20


but also when conceiving systems for production and quality control. After failure and appraisal costs
have been reduced by attention to the prevention aspect, it may be possible to reduce prevention costs as
well.
We have seen that the process of reducing failure costs may well involve increasing expenditure on the
design, developing, testing, manufacturing and inspecting processes. However, there must clearly be a
point beyond which it would be uneconomic to incur additional expense. Failure costs might possibly be
eliminated but at considerable, possibly prohibitive, costs in other areas. There is a point at which the
aggregate of all costs is at a minimum for the intended selling price. Achieving this minimum cost will
involve reviewing product designs, and improving planning processes, facilities and methods.
When the initial attack on costs has been successful, it will be logical to provide a means for analysing
costs and for reporting on them in order to keep a close watch on progress so that, firstly, a worthwhile
reduction in the attacked cost is achieved; and secondly, the expected increase in other costs is not
exceeded.

1.8.CONTROLLING COSTS
The only purpose of reporting costs is to provoke action. Without action the money spent on deriving
and reporting data is wasted.
Action is required whenever there is a significant difference between an actual cost and the budget set

for it. Action is also required to discover the reason for the difference and to eliminate it. If cost reports
are to be effective in provoking this type of action they must be
- presented at suitably short intervals
- presented quickly following the period they represent
- presented in simple, direct, intelligible form
- presented to the people who have the authority and knowledge to act effectively.
It is often effective for reports to be sent both to the person who is expected to take action and also to his
immediate superior.
It is important to remember that the actual costs revealed by control reports are the result of joint action
by quality control staff and by the design or manufacturing functions. Action to correct undesirable

Page
21


trends may therefore have to be taken by all these groups in co-operation. Action by any one group may
well be fruitless.

1.8.0.Classification of Cost of Quality in Apparel Sector
However, no standard relationship exists among the four parameters of quality costs. One can expect to
reduce the internal and external failure costs by increasing prevention and appraisal costs. But it is also
well understood that, in spite of excellent quality of raw materials and good inspection coverage, the
quality of a garment also depends on workmanship, which may be a prime factor of hindrance in the
attainment of quality owing to poor training, poor maintenance of machines, and lack of requisite skill.

1.8.1.Prevention Costs
The costs of all activities specifically designed to prevent poor quality in an apparel product or
associated processes. Examples of prevention cost:
•

New merchandise review

•

Quality planning

•

Supplier capability surveys

•

Process capability evaluations

•

Quality improvement team meetings

•

Quality improvement projects

•

Quality education and training

Minimum neck stretch must meet the required measurements specified. Sample complies measures
22".Monofilament thread is not permitted for use in children's clothing. For all the paints and other
coatings used on hardware including buttons, the lead content must be tested for permissible limit. All
buttons must be machine lock stitched and withstand pull test.

1.8.2.Appraisal Costs:
The costs associated with measuring, evaluating apparel merchandise or auditing related production
factory to assure conformance to quality standards and performance requirements.

Examples of Appraisal Costs
Page
22


•

Incoming and source inspection/test of purchased material.

•

In-process and final inspection/test.

•

Product. Process or service audits.

•

Calibration of measuring and test equipment.

•

Associated supplies and materials.

1.8.3.Internal Failure Costs
Failure costs that arise before an apparel company supplies its product to the customer i.e. prior to
delivery or shipment of the merchandise. These are due to deficiencies discovered before delivery and
are associated with the failure (non-conformance) to meet the needs of customers. If internal quality
failures of defective merchandise are identified before shipping then optimistically there may be no
external failure costs.

Examples of Internal Failure Costs
•

Scrap

•

Rework

•

Re-inspection

•

Re-testing

•

Material review

•

Downgrading

•

Returning garment for re-work

1.8.4.External Failure Costs
These are typically due to errors found by customers. Failure costs that arise after a garment unit
supplies the product to the customer, such as cost of returned merchandise, cost of quality claims, cost of
transportation for the defective merchandise, personnel costs associated with these activities. These costs
can be much higher than internal failure costs, because the stakes are much higher.

Examples of External Failure Costs
•

Processing customer complaints

•

Customer returns

•

Product recalls

Page
23


Chapter#2

FABRIC INSPECTION
SYSTEMS

Page
24


2.1. FABRIC QUALITY INSPECTION
The quality of a final garment depends on the quality of a fabric when it is received as a roll. Even the
most outstanding manufacturing methods cannot compensate for defective materials. They inspect 20%
of the rolls that they receive and evaluate them based on a four-point system. This way, we can avoid
fabric related quality problems before it is put into production.

2.2. Four- Point System
It was published in 1959 by the National Association of Shirt Pajama Sportswear Manufacturers. Widely
adopted and used in knitted fabric.

Amount to select
Inspect at least 20% of the total rolls of the shipment.

Selection of rolls
Select at least one roll of each color. If more than one role must be selected, then choose the additional
roles in proportion to the total number of roles per color received.

Defect Classification (Four- Point System)
Size Defect

Penalty

3 inches or less

1 Point

Over 3 inches, but less than 6

2 Points

Over 6 inches, but less than 9

3 Points

Over 9 inches

4 Points

.

The length of the defect is used to determine the penalty point. Only major defects are considered. No
penalty points are assigned to minor defects. (A major defect is any defect that would cause a final
garment to be considered a second.)

Major Defects
•

Major woven fabric defects include but are not limited to slubs, holes, missing yarns, yarn
variation, end out, soiled yarns, and wrong yarn.

•

Major dye or printing defects are out of register, dye spots, machine stop, color out, color smear,

or shading.

Page
25