TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN OCT DEC 2013 ISSUE
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ISSUE -3
OCTOBER-DECEMBER - 2013
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN
VOLUME - 2
October- December 2013
2
3
80
REINVENTING
TEXTILE INDUSTRY
PEER REVIEW RESEARCH PAPER
EFFECT OF NATURAL DYES
ON COTTTON & SILK
P 118, Rajlaxmi Commercial Complex, Kalher Village,
Kalher, Bhiwandi, Thane .
127, Sanjay Building, 5-B, Mittal Estate, Andheri (E), Mumbai - 400059, Maharashtra, India
(022) 28505452, 28501686, 28505983 (022) 28504142
Contact Person : Mr. Satish Kriplani : 9323646986
Email : ramdevsyntheties@rediffmail.com
ADVT.
Kriplon Synthetics Pvt. Ltd.
Technology from,
THE NATIONAL WIRE HEALD WORKS PVT. LTD.
Every Products is designed & made specific to our customers need for the highest weaving
speed avialble to day is pojectile or air Jet or Repier or water jet
Plot no. 65 Block No. 65, At & Po. Mota Borasara, Tal. Mangrol, Dist Surat ( Gujarat) India
Ph. : + 91-2621-234365 / 712, E-mail: , ,
Website : www.keytex.in
ADVT.
“ KEY” brand is the weaver’s first choice for the healds and drop pins for high speed &
Quality weaving
“Success depends
Upon previous preparation,
and without such preparation
There is sure to be failure.”
Confucius
National Textile Policy
A
n important recent development concerning the textile industry is the constitution of an Expert
Committee under the Chairmanship of Shri Ajay Shankar, Member- Secretary National
Manufacturing Competitiveness Council, to formulate National Textile Policy.
All said and done, the Textile Industry which employs 10.5 crore people directly or indirectly and earns
foreign exchange to the tune of US $ 30- 35 billion (which is expected to cross US $ 50- 55 billion shortly)
is extremely crucial to the national economy. It is gratifying that Government is giving due recognition to
this industry.
After all, from time immemorial India has been the home of cotton. Charka played an important role in the national struggle for
independence. India should be proud of its textiles, because it is the epitome of her culture, heritage and tradition.
The National Textile Policy is expected to unfold the roadmap for growth and development of the industry. Cloth is the basic
necessity of human beings and hence the industry is excepted to meet clothing requirements at affordable prices in adequate
quantities. But mere principles lead us nowhere, and hence the following development matrix:
1.
To adopt the best of technology for the manufacture of textile and garments for product development, so that the country
wins the international race in and emerges at the top.
2.
To increase production of cotton and man- made fibres in tune with the increased demand, whether domestic or export
The earnings of the marginal farmers is always a matter of concern.
3.
To continue TUFS on a long- term basis.
4.
To adopt pragmatic labour policy in tune with the demands of the present time.
5.
To encourage applied research in textiles in a big way so that the industry can be self- sufficient in technology, product
development and forecasting.
6.
To organize in the country the manufacture of weaving, processing and garmenting machinery of the current generation by
encouraging joint collaborations with reputed machinery manufacturers or otherwise.
7.
To encourage Branding.
8.
To get foreign fashion experts to strengthen fashion technology, in the country.
9.
To organize fashion shows on international scale.
However proper formulation of the policy is only the starting point. What is
required is its proper implementation. In 2010 or thereabout, the Ministry of
Textiles formulated National Fibre Policy which continues to stay under wraps.
The Textile Value Chain requested some experts, who are not directly in the
business of manufacture of textiles and garments to give their views on what needs
to be done to ensure towering success for the industry. We are glad to present their
views to our readers.
ADVT.
OCT- DEC 2013 ISSUE
9 & 10
30
61
Government News
Journey from Textile/ Clothing to Fashion /
Lifestyle
Interview : Mr. Rajesh Gawade + Mr.
Abhijeet Bham
by Dr. Darli Koshy, ATDC/ AEPC
62
11 & 12
Economy News
33
13
Pet Bottle Recycling & Non Wovens
Branding Necessity in Textiles
International News
65
by Mr. Harish Bijoor, Consultant
14, 15, 16
AGM CORNER : ITTA + ITAMMA
39
Corporate News
SRTEPC + FAIMA
PEER REVIEWED RESEARCH PAPER
Alidhara ,Textechno, ATE
COVER STORY : REINVENTING TEXTILE
INDUSTRY
19
Geographical Indication as an Instrument for
Sustainable Development
by Dr. Ritu Dewan & Dr. Bharathi Kamath,
Mumbai University
48
21
Interview : Anup Kumar + Profile of Shri
Bhairav Lifestyle
by Mr. K. Chakravarthy, Thermax
22
HR Dimension to textile industry
POST SHOW REPORT : WEAVETECH 13 +
SEMINAR ON ENERY AUDIT
43
Growth & Strategic Perspective
A Vibrant Future for Indian Textiles
67
“ Effect of Natural Dyes on Physio, Chemical & Anti
microbial Properties of Cotton & Silk”
68
POST SHOW REPORT : SCREEN PRINT INDIA
+ TECHTEXIL
69
POST SHOW REPORT : YARNEX / TEXINDIA
50
70
Fashion Forecast
POST SHOW EVENT : 6TH CLOBAL SKILL
SUMMIT
51
71
Mesta Bast Fibre
by Shri V.Y. Tamhane
FICCI : TAG 2013 + TECHNOTEX 2014
25
53
Knowledge , Major Hindrance in
Technical Textile
CITI News
54
Interview: Mr. Mohan Kavrie, Supreme Group
PRE SHOW REPORT : ITMACH 2014 +
HEIMTEXTILE
Skill Gap Analysis
74
55
Textile Policy Measures to harness full
Potential
TRADESHOW REPORT
CornHusk Fibre
75
by Mr. S. Chakrabarty, TMMA
57
FABRIC REPORT
27
Hygienic Wool through Dyeing with Green
Tea
78
26
Speech of Shri Manikam Ramaswami, Texprocil
72
YARN EXPORT PRICE
60
28
Opportunity & Challenges by Indian
Textile Engineering Industry
GOTS Labeling & Trademark Protection
by Mr. Navdeep Sodhi, Gherzi Textile
EDITORIAL TEAM
Editor & Publisher
Ms. Jigna Shah
Chief – In – Editor
Ms. Rajul J. Shah
Editorial Advisor
Shri V.Y. Tamhane
INDUSTRY
Mr. Devchand Chheda – City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group)
Mr. Manohar Samuel- Joint President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries
Mr. Aditya Biyani- Marketing Director, Damodar Group
Dr. M. K. Talukdar – VP, Kusumgar Corporates
Mr. Ajay Sharma – GM- RSWM (LNJ bhilwara group)
Advertising & Marketing
Md. Tanweer
Creative Head
Ms. Rajul J. Shah
Graphic Designer
Interactive Technology
EXPERT COMMITTEE FOR OCT-DEC 2013
Dr. Sujata Saxena , Sr. Scientist , CIRCOT
Dr. A Desai , Director, BTRA
CONSULTANT / ASSOCIATION
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
Mr. Avinash Mayekar, MD, Suvin Advisor Pvt. Ltd.
Mr. B.V. Doctor - HOD knitting, SASMIRA ,
Mr. Shivram Krishnan, Senior Textile Advisor
Dr. Ela Dedhia- Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College
Mr. G. Benerjee, Management & Industrial Consultant
Dr. Mangesh D. Teli – Professor, Ex.HOD & Dean ICT (former UDCT) , Mr. Uttam Jain, Director- PDEXCIL; VP of Hindustan chamber of commerce
Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay,Principal Scientist & Head MPD, CIRCOT
Mr. Jaykrishna Pathak, President, Bombay Yarn Merchant Association & Exchange Ltd.
Dr. Rajan Nachane, Retired Scientist, CIRCOT
Mr. Shiv Kanodia- Sec General, Bharat Merchant Chamber
Mr. N.D. Mhatre, Dy. Director, ITAMMA
Delhi Off.: Krishna Gali. 1st floor, Katra Neel. Chandni Chowk, Delhi-110 006 Tel.: 23934712 / 23951612 / 32600574 Fax: 23965942
Factory.: Raj Rajeshwari Compound, Village Sonale, off Nashik Highway Road., Bhiwandi, Dist. Thane (Mah.)
ADVT.
Regd. Off.: 191/ 5-C, Mittal Ind. Estate, Andheri (E), Mumbai-400 059. Tel.: 2850 3106 / 1568 Fax: 2850 0124
Discover Markets, Find New Customers
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& ACCESSORIES
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BHIWANDI
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MALEGAON
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EXHIBITION
PUNE
January 22-24, 2014
Bhiwandi, India
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VENUE: Indian Corporation Premises, Mumbai - Nashik Highway (NH-3), Anjurdive, Bhiwandi
Virar
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IVA ad
Connectivity & Distance
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Wa
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oad
under R
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A
0 Km
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29.5 Km
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20 Km
Ghod B
N.H. 3
Domestic Airport
International Airport
Borivali Station
Kalyan Station
Thane Station
Ghatkopar
Vikhroli
Mulund
Vashi (Navi Mumbai)
R ab
BO hmed
BHIWANDI
dM
Ol
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um
ai Ag
Anjur
Phala
ra Road
Bhiwandi
Station
Kalher
Kalyan
Naka
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MM
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ipe
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Lin
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Rd
ITMACH 2014 VENUE
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VISITOR REGISTRATION
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E-mail:
ADVT.
ATDC FARIDABAD INTRODUCES INDIA’S FIRST EVER
KNITWEAR SPECIALTY TRAINING CENTRE
skill development in the sector which at present lacks supply of
skilled hands.
The AEPC-ATDC SMART Bhawan the 4th Permanent Campus
building in NCR was inaugurated at the
hands of Dr. Kavuru Sambasiva Rao, Hon’ble
Minister of Textiles, Government of India; at
Faridabad – Haryana. The AEPC-ATDC
Bhawan and new concept – Knitwear
Specialty Centre launched today is a speaking
example of ATDC’s commitment of being
‘Of the Industry’, ‘By the Industry’ and ‘For
the Industry’.
The AEPC-ATDC ‘SMART Bhawan’ situated amidst a cluster of
Apparel Export Units in Faridabad, which
alone boast of Rs 3,000 Crore worth
‘Apparel export’ potential has over 50
apparel export units and 30 fabric
processing units employing over 60,000
people in the cluster. The Faridabad
Apparel cluster holds a key importance in
the Apparel industry in Northern India.
GOVERNMENT NEWS
AEPC-ATDC Smart Bhawan Inaugurated By Textiles MinisterDistributes Disha Adoption Certi cates To Garment Factories
This is the second distribution of the
DISHA Adoption Certicate, rst was
distributed by Smt. Kiran Dhingra IAS,
erstwhile Secretary Textiles, to the ‘DISHA Champions’ in
January 2013 at AEPC. It is noteworthy that more than 150
ofcials across India are engaged in implementation of the DISHA
programme. This programme has been designed and developed
by Indian agencies with an India Centric approach keeping in
mind the Indian law of the land.
The Union Minister of Textiles took keen
interest in viewing the sewing technologies
for woven & knit training programmes on display at the centre and
appreciated the efforts of Apparel Training & Design Centre
(ATDC) for playing a key role for development of this sector.
Acknowledging the presence of domestic & export apparel
manufacturing clusters in Faridabad, notching up around Rs. 3000
Cr. exports, he emphasized the need for product diversication and
Sericulture Workers to get MNREGA Benet , TUFS to Generate Investment for Textile Industry
The Union Minister of Textiles Dr. Kavuru Sambasiva Rao chaired a
Conference of State Ministers of Textiles in Vigyan Bhawan to
encourage investment in textile sector in various sectors including
handloom, handicraft etc.
Development Shri Jairam Ramesh has agreed to integrate sericulture
workers, where the farmers are marginal and small scale with the
benets of Mahatma Gandhi National Rural Employment Gurantee
Act (MNREGA).”
Dr. Rao said that the Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS)
has been notied. Earlier, approval for continuing the TUFS during the
12th Plan period with a major focus on powerlooms in accordance
with the Budget announcement for the nancial year 2013-14. A major
feature of the Scheme is that to promote indigenous manufacturing of
the textile machinery, Interest Reimbursement (IR) on second hand
imported shuttleless looms shall be reduced from 5 percent to 2
percent. On the other hand, for new shuttleless looms capital subsidy
would be raised from 10 percent to 15 percent, IR from 5 percent to 6
percent, Capital Subsidy from 10 percent to 15 percent and margin
money subsidy from 20 percent to 30 percent with an increase in
subsidy cap from Rs. 1 crore to Rs. 1.5 crore.
The Minister added that in the recent past the handicrafts exporters
conveyed to him that “they wanted a warehousing facility in one of the
countries of Latin America costing about 100-200 crores which would
be spent in about ve years.” He added that he has taken up this issue
with the Finance Minister “and they are in support of it and I think we
will be very soon getting budget for that also and construct a
warehousing facility possibly in Uruguay by which the handicrafts
exporters have assured me will double the exports from 17,000 to
34,000 crore in less than three years.”
Highlighting the issue of skills training, Dr. Rao mentioned that “we
should concentrate more on skills training.” He mentioned that the
Ministry is “encouraging private institutions and industries” for the
same. “We told them that we will give them money for training at the
rate of Rs. 10,000 per trainee and they are very happy that they will
undertake the training,” informed Dr. Rao.
Dr. Rao said that the Ministry has “decided to increase the production in
sericulture from 23 thousand tones to 33 thousand by the end of 12th
Plan”. He was also happy to inform that “the production of yarn is
beyond the requirements of the nation.” Union Minister for Rural
Continuation of the scheme for Integrated Textile Parks in the 12th Plan and additional grant for apparel manufacturing units
The Cabinet Committee on Economic Affairs has approved
continuation of the scheme for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP) in the
12th Five Year Plan and sanction of new projects for utilizing Rs. 717
crore the balance left in the 12th Five Year Plan allocation, after meeting
committed liabilities of the sanctioned 61 parks.
progress of the scheme for integrated textile parks had been positive
and the scheme had been successful in terms of leveraging private
sector investment, employment generation and creation of needbased, product based world class infrastructure for the industry. With
the increasing costs of production in established clusters and
heightened emphasis on environmental compliances, there is a
growing need for establishment of green eld textile parks that would
address both these constraints.
The CCEA also approved additional grant of Rs. 10 crore to be given
to existing parks for setting up apparel manufacturing units. Rs. 50
crore has been allocated for this purpose. The overall impact and
9
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Oct -Dec 2013
GOVERNMENT NEWS
NEW INITIATIVES OF TEXTILES COMMITTEE
A.
Government Policy Mechanism, Tax Structure, RTAs/PTAs, tariffs,
NTBs, Infrastructure and Other related issues to the industry
stakeholders and policy makers. Efforts are also on to prepare the
Textile Competitiveness Index (TCI) for accessing our strength and
position in global market. The main objectives of the MIT are
Market Intelligence on Textiles (MIT)
The globalization and the framework of WTO have
increasingly being integrated through different
mechanisms like RTA, FTA & Multilateral Trade
Agreements. The integration has brought about
intense competition among the textile exporting countries for
enhancing their market share in global trade, which is driven by
different factors like production, cost, pricing, quality and policy
mechanism, etc. The country that is competitive will sustain and
may enhance its market share, while the less competitive
countries may lose. There is a need to analyse the factors
affecting the global trade in textiles at disaggregate level so
as to access the position of a country in the global market in a
systematic and sustained way. Further, the information available
on key trends are also scatter and require further compilation and
analyses. In order to bridge the information gap in terms of
analysis and dissemination, the Textiles Committee is preparing a
comprehensive database on the different facets of the textiles
sector so as to share with the trade and industry and govt. for
appropriate policy decision in form of Market Intelligence in
Textiles (MIT). It will act as one point reference for the sector on
various issues pertaining to the Sector.
b. Export Competitiveness Studies:
The process of liberalization initiated in 1991 by the Government
of India has increasingly integrated the Indian Economy to the
world. However, the emergence of multilateral negotiations under
the framework of WTO and the signing up of RTA/FTAs, etc. by the
different countries has created different challenge and so also
opportunities for the sector in terms of export. The constraints arised
out of intense competition by different countries like China,
Bangladesh, Pakistan in different export destinations with India. These
constraints could be converted into opportunities, if the Indian textile
enjoys competitive advantage at different product levels in the world
market. The advantage may be in form of price advantage, quality
advantage or advantage in terms of fashion or preference. The only
way to convert the challenges into opportunities is to study the
position of the Indian T&C products vis-à-vis competitors in the
different export destinations and disseminate to the key stakeholders
including the government for appropriate business strategy and policy
decisions.
The MIT will provide information on Production, Domestic
Demand, Export & Import, Price & its Mechanism,
Competitiveness & Competitors, Cost benchmarking,
Keeping these aspects in mind, the Textiles Committee has
initiated the “Export Competitiveness Study” in different export
destinations .
Golden Jubilee Celebration of the Textiles Committee
The Hon’ble Union Minister of
Textiles, Dr. Kavuru Sambasiva
Rao inaugurated the Golden
Jubilee Year of Textiles Committee
on 11th October 2013 at
Mumbai. Dr. Rao lauded the
contribution made by Textiles
Committee to the growth of textile industry of the country during
last fty years. While congratulating the Committee on the occasion
of golden jubilee celebration, he also urged that the Committee has
to undertake more proactive work on the areas like skill
development, for providing quality manpower to the industry
besides generating employment opportunities for the country. He
was of the opinion that the development of this sector as well as the
economy is possible, when organization like Textiles Committee,
undertake more and more research and development in the areas
of new products, technology and testing facilities. Appropriate
strategy towards the effects of globalisation for capatalising the
benets of it is also the need of the hour. Hon’ble Minister also
released the Coffee Table Book “A Journey of Growth through
Transformation & Commitment”, special Postal Envelope, Market
Intelligence in Textiles and Exquisite Handwovens Textiles of Kerala
on the occasion of the Golden Jubilee Celebration. He was of the
opinion that India can excel in the eld of research and development,
when the people having expertise are adequately compensated
through productive linked incentives. It not only motivates the
researchers already in the job but also attract young talents to the
areas of research. He called upon the Textiles Committee, to devise
appropriate strategy to motivate the researchers working in this area
through appropriate means and submit to the Ministry for
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Oct -Dec 2013
10
appropriate action.
Among the other dignitaries, Smt Panabaaaka Lakshmi, Hon’ble
Minister for States of Textiles, and Petroleum and Natural Gas, Ms.
Zohra Chatterji, Secretary(Textiles), Shri S.P. Oswal, Chairman, Textiles
Committee, Shri A.B. Joshi, Textile Commissioner & Vice-Chairman,
Textiles Committee also addressed on the occasion.
While welcoming the guest, Shri S.P. Oswal said that the
Committee has completed 50 Golden years and has transformed itself
from a Regulatory Agency to a Facilitator of growth. The transformation
is an important achievement for the organisation during the journey of
50 years. He was of the opinion that in the area of Market Intelligence in
Textiles and Economic Research, the Committee has made a great
stride for providing support to the Textiles & Clothing industry.
Smt Panabaaka Lakshmi, Hon’ble Minister of States for Textiles, and
Petroleum and Natural Gas congratulated the Textiles Committee and
recounted the contributions made by it in the area of quality and
compliance, market analysis and also providing appropriate testing
services to the industry. She was of the opinion that the contribution of
the Committee in terms of Handloom Mark implementation and Total
Quality Management, star rating of ginning and pressing factories is also
remarkable. On the occasion, she also launched the Textiles
Committee new website and website of Laboratory Management
Information System (LIMS) and Star Rating of Ginning & Pressing
Factories.
Smt. Zohra Chatterji, IAS, Secretary (Textiles) in her key note
address lauded the contribution of Textiles Committee for the growth
of cotton textiles in the early year of development and to the industry as
a whole in the recent years.
At last Dr P Nayak, Secretary, Textiles Committee delivered vote of
thanks.
•
Global growth to be 2.9% in 2013 which will increase to
3.6% in 2014
• Growth to be driven more by advanced economies and the
emerging markets are expected to be weaker than expected
• Risks to forecast remain on the downside.
Overview
The IMF forecasts global growth to average 2.9% in 2013 below
the 3.2% recorded in 2012 and to rise to 3.6% in 2014. Much of
the pickup in growth is expected to be driven by advanced
economies. Growth in major emerging markets, although still
strong, is expected to be weaker than the earlier IMF forecast.
This is partly due to:
• Cooling in growth following the stimulus-driven surge in
activity after the Great Recession.
• Structural bottlenecks in infrastructure, labour markets, and
investment have contributed to slowdown in many emerging
markets.
Quite signicantly long-term interest rates in the United States
and many other economies have increased more than expected.
Although the U.S. Federal Reserve recently decided to not slow
the pace of its asset purchases yet and capital outows from
emerging markets have subsided somewhat, bond yields remain
well above levels of early May. Also there is a distinct risk that
nancial conditions will tighten from their current, still supportive
levels.
Some observations
• The impulse to global growth is expected to come mainly from
the USA where activity will move into higher gear as scal
consolidation eases and monetary conditions stay supportive. In
the USA, the projections are based on the key assumption that the
ongoing shutdown in the federal government will be short-lived
and the debt ceiling will be raised on time. Growth is expected to
rise from 1.5% this year to 2.5% in 2014 driven by continued
strength in private demand, which is supported by a recovering
housing market and rising household wealth. Following sharp scal
tightening earlier this year, activity in the USA is already regaining
speed, helped by a recovering real estate sector higher household
wealth, easier bank lending conditions and more borrowing.
• In the euro area, policy actions have reduced major risks and
stabilized nancial conditions, although growth in the periphery is
still constrained by credit bottlenecks. The region is expected to
gradually pull out of recession, with growth reaching 1% in 2014.
In the euro area, business condence indicators suggest that activity
is close to stabilizing in the periphery and already recovering in the
core economies. In 2014, a major reduction in the pace of scal
tightening, to less than 0.5% of GDP from about 1% of GDP in
2013, is in the offering. However, the support for activity from the
reduction in the pace of scal tightening is dampened by tight credit
conditions in the periphery. Thus, growth is expected to reach only
11
1%, after contracting by about ½% in 2013.
• In Japan, scal stimulus and monetary easing under the
authorities’ new policy package—the so -called
Abenomics—has enabled an impressive rebound in activity.
But the expected unwinding of scal stimulus and
reconstruction spending together with consumption tax
hikes will lower growth from 2% this year to 1¼% in 2014.
RENROC MGA
ECONOMY NEWS
The IMF released its latest economic outlook for the global
economy and the main takeaways are:
• China’s growth is projected to decelerate slightly from
7½% this year to 7¼% in 2014. Policymakers have
refrained from stimulating activity amid concerns for
nancial stability and the need to support a more balanced
and sustainable growth path. The forecasts assume that
Chinese authorities do not enact major stimulus and accept
somewhat lower growth, consistent with the transition to a
more balanced and sustainable growth path. This
slowdown will reverberate across developing Asia, where
growth is expected to remain between 6.25 and 6.5% in
2013–14.
• The projections for real GDP growth in India have also
been marked down signicantly, with growth foreseen at
3.8% in 2013 and about 5% in 2014. However, this
number is reckoned at market prices and at factor cost will
be 4.25% and 5% in 2014.
• Overall, growth in emerging market and developing
economies is expected to remain strong at 4.5–5% in
2013–14, supported by solid domestic demand, recovering
exports, and supportive scal, monetary and nancial
conditions. Commodity prices will continue to boost
growth in many low-income countries, including those in
sub-Saharan Africa. But economies in the Middle East and
North Africa, Afghanistan, and Pakistan region will continue
to struggle with difcult economic and political transitions.
GDP Projection for 2013 and 2014
(%)
World
Advanced
USA
Euro
Germany
France
Japan
UK
Emerging/
developing
China
India
Russia
Brazil
Asean-5
2011
2012
2013
2014
3.9
1.7
1.8
1.5
3.4
2.0
-0.6
1.1
6.2
3.2
1.5
2.8
-0.6
0.9
0.0
2.0
0.2
4.9
2.9
1.2
1.6
-0.4
0.5
0.2
2.0
1.4
4.5
3.6
2.0
2.6
1.0
1.4
1.0
1.2
1.9
5.1
9.3
6.3
4.3
2.7
4.5
7.7
3.2
3.4
0.9
6.2
7.6
3.8
1.5
2.5
5.0
7.3
5.1
3.0
2.5
5.4
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Oct -Dec 2013
AGM CORNER
AGM CORNER
ECONOMY
NEWS
ECONOMY NEWS
What are the downside risks?
1. The changing global growth constellations have exacerbated
risks in emerging market economies. Less U.S. monetary policy
accommodation combined with domestic vulnerabilities in
emerging market economies may lead to further market
adjustment globally, with risks of asset price overshooting or
even balance of payments disruptions.
2. Unnished nancial sector reforms in the euro area, impaired
monetary policy transmission and corporate debt overhang in
some euro area economies, and high government debt and
related scal and nancial risks in many other advanced
economies, including Japan and the United States are also to be
monitored.
3. Geopolitical risks have also resurfaced in recent months
which can upset calculations.
What needs to be done?
1. The euro area needs to repair its nancial systems and adopt a
credible banking union supported by a common backstop.
2. The USA should resolve its political standoff relating to scal
policy, and promptly raise the debt ceiling. In addition, the
Federal Reserve should carefully manage the process of
monetary policy normalization, taking into consideration
prospects for growth, ination, and nancial conditions.
3. Both Japan and the United States need to accomplish
medium-term scal adjustment and reform of their social safety
net programs. Japan and the euro area should adopt structural
reforms to boost potential output.
4. Policymakers should allow their exchange rates to respond to
changes in the environment and act as shock absorbers, while
avoiding disorderly market conditions.
5. In economies where monetary policy frameworks are less
credible, efforts may need to focus more on providing a strong
nominal anchor. Financial regulation and prudential actions
should be taken to guard against nancial instability.
6. Fiscal adjustment should continue to rebuild buffers, unless
downside risks materialize and funding conditions allow scal
easing.
7. A new round of structural reforms is a must for many
emerging market economies, including investment in
infrastructure, to reignite potential growth.
8. China needs to rebalance growth away from investment
toward consumption to make way for more balanced and
sustainable domestic and global growth.
Reference : CARE Rating Report
AGM CORNER
CORPORATE NEWS
LENZING: NEW MARKETING INITIATIVE FOR TEXTILES OF TENCEL®/COTTON
Lenzing is presenting “Natural Connection”, the new marketing
concept especially for TENCEL®/cotton blends, at the textile
trade fairs in Paris.
The two cellulose bers, TENCEL® and cotton, are ideal
partners. They go together perfectly and enhance each other with
their properties. Both bers are from Nature and possess similar
properties such as good breathing properties. A blend with 30%
TENCEL® gives cotton fabrics a new denition. As a result of
adding TENCEL®, the fabric’s hand, moisture management and
sheen can be enhanced. Thus the innovation potential for
TENCEL®/cotton fabrics is great. Depending on the blending
ratio, the look and properties of these fabrics can be changed to
suit any need. New marketing tools are now available for
manufacturers and retailers to promote goods of
TENCEL®/cotton. ”For TENCEL®, cotton is the blending
partner! Consumers are interested in natural and high-quality
materials. This marketing
push is aimed at getting
these products the attention
they deserve. With this
initiative, we are presenting
our customers with
marketing tools ideally
suited to promoting
TENCEL®/cotton
products at retail,” Andreas
Dorner, marketing manager,
explains.
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Oct -Dec 2013
12
The TENCEL®/cotton team
Cotton and TENCEL® are used for similar applications. Their
main applications are in the clothing sector in shirts and jeans and
in bed linens in the home textile sector. In bed linens and shirt
applications in particular, quality plays an important role. With a
mixture of TENCEL®, the yarn values can be considerably
improved with regard to the strength and regularity. These
positive effects can be transferred to the nal product and lead to a
more attractive fabric with better performance values.
Long-staple cotton with TENCEL® is a logical combination.
Luxury cotton is in high demand for the nest fabrics and the
demand cannot be fullled. TENCEL® can be used in these
fabrics as an equal partner. ”Fabrics of long-staple cotton and
TENCEL® are unbeatable in terms of quality and visual appeal,”
Dieter Eichinger, Vice President of the Textile Fibers Business Unit,
is certain. ”There are numerous opportunities to place
TENCEL® in relevant
products where the
added value of a
TENCEL®/cotton blend
would be appreciated.
The combination of both
bers gives luxury textile
manufacturers and
retailers the chance to
stand out from massproduced products by
means of innovation and
marketing,” he explains.
The depreciating rupee value against greenback has boosted the
prots of largest textile industry Iin Pakistan. As the listed textile rms
prot have jumped by 150 percent to Rs. 30.6 billion in scal year
2013. Industry sources said that the fall of rupee has been seen as a
positive sign for exports of Pakistan, as the local currency has fallen 8
percent since the beginning of 2013. With a share of over 50% in the
country’s total exports, the textile industry has emerged stronger in
scal 2013-14.
challenges in safety concerns of textile workers. Recent re incidents
in factories of Bangladesh, where hundreds of workers had died,
attracted negative international media coverage..
The listed companies, which cover 85pc of textile sector market
capitalisation, are very small compared to total Pakistan textile
industry. So the actual prots of the textile industry would be much
more than Rs30.6 billion.
Strong cotton yarn and grey cloth demand from China and its
neighboring countries has contributed to higher units sales while
margins increased due to stable cotton prices and 8pc Pak rupee
depreciation against US dollar. Leading textile industrialists insist that
the rise in gas tariff for captive power plants by 17.4% and electricity
rates for industrial units by 57% in recent months are going to hit the
protability of the sector in the ongoing scal 2014.
Industry sources believed that Pakistan’s textile exports are going to
benet from two major reasons, as China is focusing more on the
technology sector instead of textile, but yarn demand from China is
growing.
Moreover, Bangladesh which is the second biggest textile exporter in
the world after China, is not getting the same number of export
orders as it was getting a year ago. The country is facing major
Australia and US collaborate on responsible cotton growing
A joint programme to raise the awareness of responsible cotton
growing practices among producers in Australia and the United
States has been developed by Cotton Incorporated and Cotton
Australia.
The Cotton LEADS programme is aimed at textile brands, retailers
and manufacturers committed to sourcing cotton that is grown in a
responsible and transparent manner.
“Cotton LEADS is designed to assist businesses along the cotton
supply chain with their sustainability goals,” says Berrye Worsham,
president and CEO of Cotton Incorporated.
“Apparel brands, retailers and manufacturers require large
volumes and a reliable supply of responsibly-produced bre, as
well as proof of responsible production. Through Cotton LEADS
we demonstrate how cotton grown in the United States and
Australia can help meet these requirements.”
Combined, Australia and the United States account for roughly
17% of global cotton production.
EASY-IMP project to develop smart clothing in cloud computing
modelling, product lifecycle management, simulation and virtual
reality, is composed of four academic partners (DFKI, Lyon
University, LRI, and IBV), seven companies (ATOS, IAW, ATC, HC,
Nuubo, Timocco, SLCMSR) and the Federation of European Sporting
goods (FESI).
According to ofcials involved with EASY-IMP, this infrastructure will
enable all interested third parties to offer new services to smart phone
and EASY wearable users, resulting in an open platform of literally
innite applications in many target markets. First of all, the EASY
approach will be validated in three different industrial scenarios, i.e.
rehabilitation, sport and games.
ATC is one of the main Technology Providers in EASY-IMP, mainly
involved in the development and integration of Meta-Product Cloud
Services for Supply Chain Management. In particular, ATC is
responsible for the analysis, system-level denitions, implementation,
technical testing and user evaluation of the core Production Planning
Environment (private cloud), which will support the production
planning of customisable intelligent wearables.
EASY-IMP started in September 2013 and will run for 36 months.
A research project, co-founded by the European Commission, will
investigate the potential to create smart clothing with wearable
technology in cloud computing.
The ‘EASY-IMP’ project proposes to develop a cloud computing
enabled framework for the Collaborative Design and Development
of Personalised Products/Services. This would then combine
embedded sensors and mobile devices with facilities for the joint open
development of enabling downloadable applications.
The ‘Meta-Products’ consist of intelligent wearables (clothing,
footwear, accessories) equipped with embedded networks of
sensors. And sensorial data will be communicated to smart phones via
Bluetooth or Wi. The required functionality will be congured by the
end-users; the design, selection of components, sourcing of materials
and sensors, virtual prototyping, as well as production planning and
services integration, however, is a collaborative process of all involved
companies, designers, sensor producers, software developers and
application experts.
The research addressed in the EASY-IMP project involves partners
from nine countries (Germany, France, Spain, Italy, Slovenia, Belgium,
Greece and Israel). And the EASY-consortium, which integrates
competences on production methodology, system design and
13
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Oct -Dec 2013
RENROC MGA
Depreciating Pakistani Rupee, Appreciating Prot in Pakistan …!!!
INTERNATIONAL NEWS
INTERNATIONAL NEWS
CORPORATE NEWS
LAUNCH: “High Speed Cabler & Twister” for High-Tenacity Yarns
Live demonstration of a High Speed & High Efciency solution
for Twisting or Cabling of High-Tenacity & Heavy Denier
Technical Yarns Showcased at the Techtextil 2013.
Application Industries:
Tire Cord, BCF/Carpert Yarns, Industrial Threads, Belting, Filter
Fabrics, Geo Textiles, Industrial Fabrics, Composites, Packaging
Fabrics etc.
Alidhra Weavetech Pvt. Ltd. had given a live demonstration of it’s
High Speed & High Efciency Machine Model: X-500CC for
Twisting & Cabling of High-Tenacity yarns for technical applications.
Weavetech Group has a dedicated R&D center in Surat city whose
main aim to develop indigenous technologies for Indian markets
thus providing the Indian Industry with a competitive edge to
respond to global benchmarks of productivity & quality.
Since 25 yrs, Weavetech Group has lead the indigenous
developments of most efcient Twisting technologies for Indian
markets creating many ‘rsts’ in the process. With the same vision,
it has now developed a modular Direct-Cabler, Corder & Twister
machine with technologies comparable to global benchmarks for
the technical yarn markets.
Highlights of Cabler/Twister Model: X-500-CC
Processing Speeds of upto 300 mtrs/min
Individual Motor Driven Spindles
Pneumatic Air-Threading & Cradle Lifting
Conveyor System for package transport
Process upto 12000 Denier @ 30-1400 TPM
Process upto 14 Kg knotless packages
Split Control for each side to process different yarns
Lowest Operating & Maintenance Costs
Automatic tensile, evenness and count tester STATIMAT DS
The new STATIMAT DS combines testing of tensile properties,
unevenness, and count of yarn and thread in one tester. The
three tests on each package presented by the package changer
are performed in succession. Optionally it is possible to test
unevenness and yarn count in one test run, which enables to
relate the results of both measurements to the same tested yarn
length.
as control electronics including
the PC-based Textechno
TESTCONTROL system for the
different test modules built in,
which leads to a very economic
price of the STATIMAT DS
compared to 3 separate testing
appliances.
A further optional accessory is an optical entanglement sensor to
measure interlaces in a multilament yarn.
The operator has to present the
test samples (yarn packages) only
to one instead of several different
testers, which results in
considerable time- and labour
savings. All measured data are
presented in one test protocol, so
that the data can be easily
interrelated, for example to
calculate tenacity from the
measured strength- and yarncount values.
With regard to testing technology and technical realization the
STATIMAT DS offers numerous technical and technological
novelties – for example a patented new capacitor design for
measurement of unevenness –, united with a new design
philosophy.
Essential advantages of the STATIMAT DS:
Common use of all peripheral components of the tester like
package changer, threading mechanism for introducing the yarn
sample into the test sections, yarn feeding device, waste yarn
disposal, instrument housing with protective front panel, as well
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Oct -Dec 2013
14
Automatic tensile-, evenness-,
and count tester STATIMAT DS
A.T.E. Envirotech, an A.T.E. group company, offers complete
wastewater treatment and recycling solutions, including zero
liquid discharge. The company has already executed over
200 projects in India and other countries that include USA,
Puerto Rico, Zambia, Philippines, Ethiopia, Malaysia and
Indonesia.
Mr. Anuj Bhagwati
Managing Director,
A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd.
Most businesses are
working to drive down
costs while simultaneously reducing their environmental impact.
For them, there cannot be a better option than innovative clean
technology solutions that offer a plethora of benets: both
economical and environmental. A.T.E. not only offers
differentiated clean technologies spanning energy, water and air,
including remote monitoring, but also domain expertise in
application areas, thus distinctly standing apart from a host of
other players in the eld.
CORPORATE NEWS
A.T.E.'s rising presence in clean technology
The company undertakes turnkey projects as well as
upgradation of existing projects through value added
products. The company also undertakes complete project
execution and commissioning, re-commissioning, troubleshooting, etc. In addition, it can also take-up comprehensive
monitoring and maintenance contracts using innovative
remote monitoring technologies.
A.T.E. works in municipal infrastructure water and
wastewater projects and industry verticals like textiles, dairy,
sugar, pharmaceuticals, petrochemical, chemical, healthcare,
food-processing and building segment and has a base of
satised customers across these verticals.
A.T.E. is a reputed, diversied Indian engineering group, which is
on the threshold of celebrating its platinum jubilee (75 years) in
2014. A.T.E. has long operated in the elds of textile engineering,
ow technology and print and packaging solutions. The group
ventured into the clean technology space in 2006 with its entry
into Machine-to-Machine solution business, followed by energy
efcient cooling solutions and water and waste water
management.
Leveraging its in-house expertise, the company has
developed the highly successful “AAA” process that enhances
biological treatment efciency and minimizes sludge
generation. It also provides VSEP-EVR (Vibratory Shear
Enhanced Processing- Evaporation Volume Reduction), a
patented membrane based system from New Logic
Research (for reducing the volume of wastewater going to
evaporators in ZLD plants). While the VRM (Vacuum
Rotating Membrane) based MBR systems from Huber,
Germany, can handle difcult to treat efuents, the AVR
(Anaerobic Venturi Reactor) based biomethanation plants
A.T.E.’s foray into clean technology is propelled by its passion. “I
have always been passionate about the environment and
wanted to get involved in the environment movement and
socially useful businesses, particularly as I was deeply concerned
that India is one country that would be badly hit with climate
change”, said Mr Anuj Bhagwati, the head of the A.T.E. Group,
who is spearheading A.T.E.’s clean tech drive.
Here is an overview of A.T.E.’s clean technology businesses:
WATER AND WASTE WATER MANAGEMENT:
offer sustainable and trouble free operations.
For energy efcient water ow management, A.T.E. offers a
wide range of pumping solutions from some of the world’s
well-known brands and A.T.E. ’s own ‘BoostStar’ hydropneumatic (HyP) pressure boosting systems. The
‘BoostStar’ system is built with the most advanced features to
manage the water ow of high-rise apartments, townships,
bungalows/villas, commercial buildings such as malls, hotels
and ofce buildings and also for industrial applications.
In the context of the increasing water scarcity, the need for water
and wastewater management and recycling cannot be
overemphasized. A.T.E. provides a comprehensive range of
state-of-the art technology solutions for the management of
water, and treatment and recycling of wastewater from within
the group as well as from various global leaders that it has tied-up
with.
A.T.E.’s customers include some well-known names such as
15
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Oct -Dec 2013
CORPORATE NEWS
from outgoing air & pre-cools the fresh air. Since there is no rotating
wheel, there will be no wear/tear, no deterioration of efciency over
a time & no cross contamination.
Chitale Dairy, Godavari Bio-reneries, Renuka Sugars,
Torrent Pharma, Cipla, Jeyavishnu Textile Processors, Indo
Rama, Larsen & Toubro, Vatech Wabag, Tata Steel, Voltas,
Municipal Corporations of Ahmedabad, Kolkata and Delhi,
etc.
Many studies point to the greater health & productivity of people
working in ofces as well as in spaces that have signicantly higher
fresh air component. The higher air volumes of evaporative cooling
systems (compared to air conditioning systems) provide greater
comfort at higher temperatures. In such situations, in many climates,
two stage evaporative cooling is nding a niche today.
ENERGY EFFICIENT COOLING SOLUTIONS:
Cooling is a major contributor to energy consumption and
thus a major source of CO2 emission in the atmosphere.
About 40% of a building’s energy consumption is from its
cooling requirements. With increasing power scarcity, rising
electricity bills and mounting carbon emissions, there is a
great need to have energy efcient & eco-friendly cooling
systems.
The concept of comfort cooling, driven by a commitment for
sustainability, is fast catching up in India as is borne out by the
impressive list of large corporates who have installed the HMXAmbiators for their ofces and factories. Marquee names include:
Volkswagen, Tata Motors, Bosch, ITC, to name just a few.
MACHINE-TO-MACHINE SOLUTIONS:
“If you can monitor equipment of whatever sort or buildings
remotely, then you can ensure that they operate at optimal levels, in
turn conserving energy and resources” said Mr Abhay Nalawade,
Founder and Managing Director of EcoAxis, the A.T.E. group
company in the M2M business.
Industrial equipment presents numerous complexities owing to
changing technologies, difcult processes, different users, etc.,
which make the overall equipment optimization a humanly
impossible task. This leads to sub-optimization of equipment
capabilities and wastage of resources. The machine-to-machine
technology platform developed by EcoAxis, precisely addresses this
long-standing problem.
HMX Systems, an A.T.E. group company, offers comfort
cooling solutions, providing comfort with better economy as
well as with lower carbon intensity.
EcoAxis’ product suite, which is called SuperAxis, captures various
operational data based on the pre-determined parameters from
industrial plants, equipment and utilities and transmits them to a
central server, where the data is analyzed and archived. Based on
the analysis, the system triggers periodic or emergency notications
to the stakeholders on the machine performance and energy
consumption. Just as ‘a stitch in time saves nine’, the timely
notications help stakeholders to take necessary
corrective/preventive action to not only improve the machine
performance, but also optimize resource consumption.
The rst of the innovative products developed by HMX
Systems was the ‘HMX-Ambiator’. It is a new generation two
stage evaporative cooling solution, providing ‘100% freshclean-cool air’ and an energy efcient alternative to
conventional air-conditioners with up to 60% energy saving.
HMX has subsequently launched HMX-Treated Fresh Air (TFA)
& HMX-Economizer.
Comfort cooling by the principle of ‘two stage evaporative
cooling’ is a concept that is fast catching on. It is a signicant
upgrade over air-washer (single stage evaporative cooling)
technology in the sense that it either ‘saves power for the same
cooling effect as an air-washer’ or ‘provides more cooling and
comfort than an air-washer’ for the same power. Further, in case
of HMX-Ambiator, moisture addition in the conditioned space is
just 50% as that of air-washers. Two stage evaporative cooling is
a fresh air solution. So it is optimum for many applications such as
factory shed cooling and fringe areas in buildings. Ambiators
further protect our environment by not using any ozone
depleting CFCs.
EcoAxis' solutions have vast applications, e.g., boilers, distilleries,
water and waste water treatment plants, foundries, bottling plants,
food processing units, power, water monitoring, carbon
monitoring, etc. With resource conservation moving to the top of
the business agenda, the demand for this application in utilities is
growing rapidly.
EcoAxis is a pioneer in introducing this innovative technology in India
and has gained widespread expertise over the years with the
execution of a large number of prestigious projects, which includes
remote monitoring of
Thermax absorption
chillers, CEO dash board
for Godavari Bioreneries, thermal power
plant monitoring for KSK
Energy Ventures, etc .,
while many more such
projects are in the
pipeline.
HMX- TFA is an innovative technology product to supply
ltered-conditioned-fresh air in designated areas. Highly energy
efcient solution for once-through and fresh air cooling
applications in industries, such as pharma, foods, beverages,
automobiles, etc. It can be used in conjunction with AHUs / large
chiller installations for energy saving while treating the fresh air
intake in commercial buildings.
HMX-Economizer is an energy recovery device & in turn
lowers the TR load on AC. It helps in recovering the energy
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Oct -Dec 2013
16
Advt.
ADVT.
COVER STORY
“Reinventing Textile industry present to you bouquets of articles from different field, areas of expertise people about New
Textile the measures required to harness the full potential of the textile industry, which has so far remained tied in knots
because of various factors like conflicting claims of different segments of the industry, deficiencies in the economy, need for
further government support, adverse headwinds from the developed countries due to economic slowdown. We are confident
that our readers will appreciate bouquets of articles we present here. We appreciate your comments and feedback on same.
TEXTILE INDUSTRY-GROWTH AND STRATEGIC PERSPECTIVE
faces is overcome.
Dr Ritu Dewan,
Director & Professor
Department of Economics
University of Mumbai
The problems of the textile industry have its roots in a complex
set of factors; including government policy, lack of
modernization, diversification of company funds by mill owners,
the growth of the power loom sector using the facilities and
subsidies set aside for encouragement of handloom industry. And
thus an industry with huge potential and totally self-sufficient
indigenous capacity, e.g. Raw material (cotton), machinery,
labour and a vast market, sank into messy crisis.
Dr. G Bharathi Kamath,
Associate Professor
Department of Economics
University of Mumbai
In the year 2010-11, the mill sector contributed 4 percent to
the production, the share of Powerloom sector, Handloom
sector, Hosiery sector and Khadi / Wool & Silk was 61, 11, 23
and 1 percent respectively. The exports of clothing & cotton
textiles together were US $ 21500 of the total US $ 32350 for
the year 2011-12. The textile industry employment in the
year 2011 was 45.19 million and is projected to reach 52
million by 2016-17. The allied industry is a major source of
employment with figures of 60.2 million in the year 2011,
projected to reach 69 million by the end of twelfth plan
period.
Editorial Note
For laying down the roadmap for the
growth of the textile industry in the
Twelfth Plan, it is necessary to know the views of economists and
academia. An article from Dr G. Bharathi Kamath, Associate
Professor and Dr Ritu Dewan, Director and Professor, Department
of Economics, University of Mumbai emphasizes on larger subsidies
and policy support for the informal sector and SMEs. The
economists are of the view that, with China emerging as the selfconsuming economy and because of other factors like appreciation
of their currency and the increase in the cost of production, India has
a good chance in the international market.
- Consulting Editor
There is a dominance of the decentralised powerloom and
handloom sectors in the textile industry, which are mainly
small and medium scale enterprises. In fact, many of the large
textile companies are also conglomerates of medium sized
mills. Statistics released by the Ministry of Textiles shows a
highly fragmented industry, except in the spinning subsegment. The organised sector contributes over 95% of
spinning, but hardly 5% of weaving fabric. Small Scale
Industries (SSIs) perform the bulk of the weaving and
processing operations.
There are no two opinions about the significance of textile industry
in India in terms of its contribution towards output, employment and
exports. To present a quick over view, the sector contributes 14
percent to the industrial production, 4 percent to GDP and 17
percent to the export earnings of the country. It provides direct
employment to more than 35 million people. The growth and all
round development of this industry has a direct bearing on the
improvement of the economy of the nation. According to the
working group of planning commission on textile industry, the
potential for significant growth in the Indian Textile Industry is
undisputed.
•
Textiles is one of the largest component of India’s
exports and can grow further and faster.
•
There are enormous opportunities for employment
creation in this sector.
The schemes offered by government for this sector ranges
from welfare schemes, e-marketing schemes, skill
development, credit and financial packages. Besides providing
various schemes, there are various other statutes, including
fiscal policies (governing customs, excise, sales tax, etc.), rules,
initiatives, incentives, etc through which government extends
support to the industry.
The paradox that is observed is that inspite of higher
contribution of informal sector and SME’s as compared to
large industries to production, export earning and
employment generation, the extent of subsidies in terms of
credit and policy benefits that they actually reap is least and this
one major aspect that requires serious and immediate
intervention from government.
This is one sector where the competitiveness can be developed
quickly at minimal cost. However it is possible only when the
multitude of problems and several contradictions that this industry
Lack of finance and poor technology is one of the oft repeated
19
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Oct -Dec 2013
COVER STORY
and discussed problems about the textile industry; it is argued
that the large unorganized sector has poor capability to raise its
productivity, volumes and quality standards owing to poor
access to latest technologies and finances. The paradox is that
the requirement of the funds could have been easily be selffinanced, but the contradiction is that the newer generation mill
owners had diverted funds indiscriminately from textile mills into
newer and more profitable industries, without long term
business interests. There was hardly any ploughing back of
profits into modernising and replacing the old and worn
machinery.
be essential for SMEs to align with these firms that can ensure a
market for their products and new orders. The focus should be
on research and development; India does not have expertise in
synthetic yarn manufacturing, which is more durable than cotton
and jute and demand for which is growing very fast in the market.
Though some interest has been shown by manufacturers in
India, it has a huge potential which needs to be tapped.
The SMEs in the powerloom and handloom sector will face
significant churn in the future. Spinning mills that account for 95%
of the yarn and fibre production, will move up the value chain
into weaving. This will erode the viability of the hitherto
protected powerloom and handloom operators numbering
over 400,000, who have remained insulated from competitive
forces so far. A possible remedy could be for these weavers to
align with bigger players or integrate operations that would
ensure off-take of their products.
Another crucial aspect closely related to the former is on the
textile mill land, which is a pot of gold. The mill owners claimed
that they need to raise money for urgently needed
modernization of their outdated machinery. Over years there
has been a lot of tussle between the mill owners and workers
w.r.t. land issues. The money so raised was never used for the
technical progress either in terms of modernization or
upgradation of these industries. This had its impact on lower
levels of productivity as well as profitability of the industry over
years. This is another contradiction that inspite of having a
financial capabilities for technological upgradation, due to lack of
effective management and timely interventions, an opportunity
was lost.
Another aspect in the international market is that China is viewed
as a competitor to Indian textile industry. It must be noted that
China is the leading sourcing base for textile and apparel with a
majority share of about 35% of global exports. However, rising
labour cost and fast ageing population is one of the greatest
challenges that is being faced by Chinese textile industry. China
has also become a self-consuming economy due to increase in
per capita income and the consequent increase in domestic
demand; also the Chinese currency is appreciating over a period
in the recent years. These factors would definitely have a
negative impact on its textile exports. Indian industry must take
this into account and try and capture the international market.
In the international market, India boasts of a strong raw material
production base, a vast pool of skilled and unskilled personnel,
sizable supply of fabric, cheap labour, good export potential and
low import content as some of the salient features and strengths
of its textile industry. This is a traditional, robust, well-established
industry, enjoying considerable demand in the domestic as well
as global markets. However, at the global level, India’s textile
exports account for just 4.72% of global textile and clothing
exports. India’s presence in the international market is significant
in the areas of fabrics and yarn. Quota constraints and
shortcomings in producing value-added fabrics and garments
and the absence of contemporary design facilities are some of
the challenges that have impacted textile exports from India.
A recent report on “benchmarking study of production costs in
India vis-a-vis Bangladesh, China, Egypt, Indonesia, Pakistan and
Turkey” observes that Indian textile industry has emerged to be
competitive over years. The impression that the labour
productivity is lower than Bangladesh is false.
The textiles sector has witnessed a spurt in investment during the
last five years. The industry (including dyed and printed) attracted
foreign direct investments (FDI) worth Rs 5,831.02 crore (US&
854.78 million) during April 2000 to May 2013. This trend is
welcome and its sustenance over longer period requires
conscious effort in terms of provision of sufficient and reliable
infrastructure facilities.
The potential size of Indian textile industry is expected to reach $
220 billion by 2020. Retail sector is one of the potential growth
sectors, as several international retailers are looking towards
India as a potential sourcing destination. There is a marked shift
in consumer preferences towards man-made fibre and this
change is attributed to the changes in the level of disposable
income and consumption pattern. Buyers need to diversify
sourcing risk is another factor which would boost export
growth.
There is a bright future for the industry as it stands with a
competitive advantage in terms of raw-material and potential to
grow and match up to meet the increasing international demand.
The industry has to explore strategies to tap the potential
possibilities along with the government’s concerted policy effort
to seize the emerging opportunities. The approach Paper of the
eleventh planning commission on textile and jute industry also
suggests that the private sector, small enterprises and the
corporate sector have a critical role to play in achieving the
objectives of faster and more inclusive growth, and has laid
emphasis on policies aimed at creating an environment in which
entrepreneurship can flourish.
References:
1.
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www.dnb.co.in
3.
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Another segment in fabric that is fast growing is the hygiene
products. The national market is still in its incipiency stage,
however, there is a potential once the market penetrates and
grows beyond the urban areas. However, the international
market is well developed for this segment.
On the basis of its strengths and expected growth in potential
segments, India can aim to become a major outsourcing hub for
foreign manufacturers and retailers, with composite mills and
large integrated firms being their preferred partners. It will thus
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Oct -Dec 2013
20
to a large extent. Other segments like weaving, knitting and
processing units still remain fragmented. Thousands of units
work in backward conditions without access to efcient
processes, equipment or timely credit. This has been an
inheritance from the earlier years when several aspects of the
textile industry had been reserved for the small scale sector and
our processes were not geared up for the export markets. In
today’s changed context, to face the onslaught of global
competition, Indian units have to hasten the move towards
integration. Consolidation will help the industry to operate with
economies of scale so that it gets viable to infuse new
technology, modernise equipment, increase output and
improve quality.
Mr. K. Chakravarthy,
Global Vice President, Heating SBU,
Themax Limited.
The textile industry has undergone major
changes in recent years. From an inward looking industry
essentially catering to the domestic market, it has now become a
vibrant exporter, bringing in precious foreign exchange. While
continuing to be the largest employer in India after agriculture,
the industry has also been trying to modernise and invest in plant
and machinery to boost output. Though the current economic
slowdown in Indian and global markets has slowed the tempo of
changes, it is clear that the textile industry is poised on the
threshold of an era of transformation.
COVER STORY
A VIBRANT FUTURE FOR INDIAN TEXTILES...!
Automation and modern technology: Several studies have
pointed out that by installing modern equipment textile units in
India can achieve higher productivity and minimise fabric defects.
While the spinning segment has made progress on this front,
modernisation is yet to happen in the weaving and related fabric
manufacturing, and garment units. Machines to provide higher
speeds and wider widths and software to monitor the efciency
of operations are prerequisites for units that would like to make
their mark in global markets.
The process of globalisation has played its part in ushering in this
change. Supplying to global players and addressing overseas
markets, the industry today is aware of the need to integrate its
value chains and to modernise its operations. Underlining the
importance of the textile industry in India’s economic life, the
Government has also facilitated several welcome changes.
Some of the policy initiatives introduced in recent years include
the Technology Upgradation Fund scheme, the Technology
Mission on cotton, Scheme for integrated textile park, reduction
in customs duty to import modern machinery, setting up of
apparel training and design centres, 100% foreign direct
investment in the sector, etc. These are bound to have a positive
impact in the industry. Several textile players have become
respectable brands in the global markets.
Removing infrastructural bottlenecks: Indian textile industry is
seriously hampered by infrastructural bottlenecks. Available and
reliable power tops the list of infrastructural essentials. Extended
power outages have almost destroyed established textile
centres like Coimbatore in Tamil Nadu. While existing units are
languishing, any talk of modernisation without access to power
will be meaningless.
Captive power is an option, but the small and fragmented nature
of textile operations call for co-ordination and planning among
the various units for a common facility. If common efuent
treatment plants can work in textile industry clusters there is no
reason why the concept of shared captive power plants cannot
emerge as a viable option. Textile associations and apex
organisations can take the lead, and with the support of nancial
institutions, local government and power developers this option
can be the answer to the shortages that plague the industry.
For further expansion and growth, the textile industry has several
pluses in its favour. In terms of domestic availability of major bres
and yarns, India has a strong base in raw materials, being among
the world’s leading nations in the production of cotton, jute and
silk. As one of the oldest and established industries in India, it has
established facilities from spinning mills to garmenting units. It has
a rich heritage to sustain the country’s considerable talent in
design and fashion. In recent decades, the industry has also
gained considerable experience working with global rms.
People focus: As millions depend on this sector for their
livelihood, we need measures to make the transition to a
modernised industry as painless as possible. Thousands of
people continue to suffer as a result of the decline of textile units
in several parts of the country, especially in Mumbai. Hence, as
we move ahead it is important to consider and resolve people
related issues with sensitivity, in all aspects ranging from the
choice of technologies and changes in labour laws to skill
development and the offer of credit facilities.
However, the country’s contribution to the world’s textile
output is about 3%, underlining the fact that there is tremendous
scope for growth. The positive changes and modernisation
attempts are not uniform across various segments of the industry
or over the regional textile clusters of India. The industry has to
scale up its exports and it also has to cater to the growing
requirements of a prosperous middle class that has the
purchasing power and access to global products. This cannot be
done by an industry saddled with issues that hinder its growth.
Some of these issues that need to be addressed for the Indian
textiles to grow to its potential are briey touched upon:
A well planned and comprehensive skill development plan has
to go hand in hand with enabling technologies and nancial
support for modernisation. Such a programme will prepare the
ground for the change in the mindsets of people that is so
necessary for transformations. This again calls for an integrated
approach involving agencies and people across various sectors.
Consolidation and integration of units: At present, it is only the
spinning segment of the textile industry that has been consolidated
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TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Oct -Dec 2013
COVER STORY
Ensuring internal efciencies: In the age of globalisation, a
host of factors such as sourcing, technology, wage structures,
governmental support etc. contribute to the competitiveness
of enterprises. However, many of these are dependent on
extraneous conditions and in the anxiety to inuence them,
often the conditions within the industry and within individual
units are neglected. Prudent industrial practices show us that
there is immense scope for bringing in internal efciencies that
can result in incremental savings and add to the protability of
operations.
to bolster efciencies can help units improve their competitiveness.
Water, another essential resource, has already become as critical as
power both in terms of availability and quality. Again, textile units can
make use of technologies to treat efuent and recycle water for their
processes. They can drastically bring down the spiralling cost of
water and conserve the nation’s depleting stock of ground water.
To conclude, as in every country that aims for the revival and
expansion of its traditional industries, the Indian textile industry also
will continue to need a supportive policy framework. As indicated
earlier, from the government there have been several enabling
moves in the last decade, though what has been done tends to fall
short of what needs to be done. However, as a changed global
economic context persuades every industry to look beyond state
support and solutions, it is in the interests of our textile sector also
to harness its internal strengths and overcome its structural aws for
a vibrant phase of growth.
Power shortage is endemic in the country and while grids and
captive power plants can alter the overall situation, there is
much that can be done internally to conserve this precious
resource. On the energy side, fabric manufacturing needs
heating, cooling and power inputs and today there are viable
technologies like cogeneration and vapour absorption that
integrate these inputs to provide optimal efciencies. Energy
audits to plug wasteful leaks and targeted retrots and upgrades
HR DIMENSION TO THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY
Shri. V.Y.Tamhane
The India’s job scene is quite gloomy.
Although the poverty ratio has come
down, it is still a frightening gure. The
unemployment ratio which had come
down to 6.6 Per cent in 2009- 10, after
touching a high of 8.2 Per cent in 200405, once again took a U- turn in 20112012, as per NSSO Report.
the mountain, the mountain must go to Mohammed. Cotton textile
mills should preferably be located in the midst of a cotton belt.
However at such places, the young recruits are bound to be raw
hands. Hence, the problem of training will arise.
If there is a cluster of a few mills in a cotton belt, it is possible to take a
centralized training facility. More often than not, this is not likely to
happen. In such cases, individual units will have to adopt TWI
(Training within the Industry) method. Under Central Skill
Development programme, It is necessary to give suitable grants in
both the cases.
When the scenario of job market is
bleak, it is difcult to understand why the textile industry has been
facing paucity of workers. But the fact remains that unavailability of
staff is hampering production at many centers.
Why this situation?
The units working on man- made bres could be located at semiurban areas and here also the Government grant is necessary for
training purposes.
Many people are of the view that because of the introduction
MNREGA, which assures jobs for a certain minimum days in a
year at pre-determined rates to at least one member of a family,
migration of the workers is reduced. When jobs are available at
the doorstep, why should anyone look for pastures elsewhere, at
a distant place?
Another solution may be to change the stafng pattern. Instead of
selecting persons with a minimum level of education, mills/factories
may employ educated persons at a slightly higher level. Such
persons may require less guidance of supervisory staff, and to that
extent it may be possible to reduce the strength of supervisory
cadre. Some factories may like to consider this suggestion.
Another popular argument which makes rounds particularly in
the corridors of power is that the least developed or developing
states in the Indian Union have undertaken large programmes of
industrialization. Hence opportunities are opening in the home
state only.
Amendments to Labour Law
Women workers are not allowed to work from 10 Pm to 5 am
(Next day) as Per proviso to section 66(b) of the Factories Act.
There is no point in continuing with this discriminatory provision, as
male workers have no restriction. The relaxation can be given,
subject to Mills/ factories adhering to conditions to ensure safety and
protection and no harassment of any nature to women.
There is onereasoning which is seldom considered. With the
right to education, there is a considerable spread of education
even in rural and far- off areas. Hence in the ranks of the
unemployed, the numbers of those who are unskilled or semiskilled may be going down, while numbers of unemployed
educated persons may be increasing.
ILO allows 50 hours overtime per month while Indian law allows 50
hours overtime per quarter. This anomaly needs to be corrected.
Mexico works on a 10 hour basis and the workers enjoy a 5 day
week. Even when workers operate on overtime, they still have a
day off. Further, the trade unions endorse overtime for the workers.
The Ministry for Textiles needs to work with the Labour ministry to
resolve this issue. The issue of time exibility also needs to be
addressed.
Whatever the reason, a solution has to be found out.
Solution to the Problem
One solution is to start in rural areas. If Mohammed cannot go to
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Oct -Dec 2013
22
ADVT.
