Eyewitness travel top 10 amsterdam

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

TOP 10

AMSTERDAM

10
10
10
10
10

10

10
10
10
10
10

Unmissable museums & galleries
Best restaurants, bars & cafes
Most fun places for children
Best hotels for every budget
Finest canals to explore on foot
Best shops & markets
Greatest Dutch artists
Best venues for music, dance & theatre
Most elegant canal houses
Insider tips for every visitor

YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING


Amsterdam Area by Area
This Top 10 Travel Guide to Amsterdam divides this historic city into
seven easily managed central Amsterdam areas and one area
exploring further afield. This map shows the location and extent of
these areas. Each Amsterdam area in the guide is colour coded;
colour bands on the pages covering each area correspond to the
colours shown on this map. Almost every place mentioned in the book
has a map reference, which takes you to the large maps on the front
and back flaps.
Western Canal Ring pp90–97
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Further Afield pp126–129

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E


DK EYEWITNESS TOP 10 TRAVEL GUIDES

AMSTERDAM

MAIN CONTRIBUTORS

FIONA DUNCAN & LEONIE GLASS


Contents

Left Hollandse Manege Right Magere Brug

Contents
Amsterdam’s Top 10
Canals & Waterways
Produced by DP Services,
31 Ceylon Road, London W14 0PY
Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore
Printed and bound in Italy by Graphicom
First published in Great Britain in 2003

by Dorling Kindersley Limited
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL
A Penguin Company
Reprinted with revisions 2005
Copyright 2003, 2005 © Dorling
Kindersley Limited, London
All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced, stored
in a retrieval system, or transmitted in
any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or
otherwise, without the prior written
permission of the copyright owner.
A CIP catalogue record is available from
the British Library.
ISBN 1 4053 0793 5
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no
hierarchy of quality or popularity is
implied. All 10 are, in the editor’s
opinion, of roughly equal merit.

Rijksmuseum

8
12

Van Gogh Museum

16

Museum Amstelkring

20

Begijnhof

22

Amsterdams Historisch
Museum

24

Oude Kerk

28

Van Loon Museum

30

Anne Frankhuis

32

Dam Square

34

Moments in

Amsterdam’s History

38

Museums

40

Churches

42

Historic Buildings

44

Dutch Artists

46

Jewish Sights

48

The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of
going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices,
gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers
cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for
any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this

book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of
our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides,
Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, Great Britain WC2R 0RL.
Cover: All photographs specially commissioned except: Front – DK Images: Front bl, cl; Powerstock: Joanna
McCarthy main. Spine – DK Images: Max Alexander. Back – DK Images: tc; Vanessa Hamilton tl; Kim Sayer tr.

2


Cafés

50

Around Town

Bars

52

Oude Zijde

76

Clubs

54

Nieuwe Zijde

82

Performing Arts Venues

56

Western Canal Ring

90

Culinary Highlights

58

Central Canal Ring

98

Eastern Canal Ring

106

Restaurants

60
Museum Quarter

114

Shops & Markets

62

Plantage

122

Walks & Cycle Rides

64

Further Afield

126

Places for Peace & Quiet 66

Contents

Left Eerste Klas Café, Centraal Station Right Prinsengracht

Streetsmart

Children’s Attractions

68

Practical Information

132

Festivals & Events

70

Places to Stay

144

Excursions

72

General Index

150

Left Café de Jaren Right Montelbaanstoren, Oude Schans

3



AMSTERDAM’S
TOP 10

Canals & Waterways
8–11
Rijksmuseum
12–15
Van Gogh Museum

16–19
Museum Amstelkring
20–21
Begijnhof
22–23
Amsterdams Historisch
Museum
24–27
Oude Kerk
28–29
Museum Van Loon
30–31
Anne Frankhuis
32–33
Dam Square
34–35
Top 10 of Everything
38–73

AMSTERDAM’S TOP 10

Amsterdam Highlights
6–7


Canals and
Waterways

Br

Amsterdam’s canals
– in particular, the
elegant ring of three
17th-century canals
known as the
Grachtengordel – are
its defining feature
(see pp8–11).

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Things are not always what they
seem, and that is certainly true of this
gem of a 17th-century house set in
the unlikely surroundings of the Red
Light District: tucked away on its upper
floors is a rare example of a perfectly
preserved clandestine Catholic church.
The rest of the museum is fascinating,
too – the interior has changed little
since the Golden Age (see pp20–21).

T

6
5

RNI

Museum Amstelkring

S STRAA

Negen
Straatjes

Van Gogh
Museum
The Van Gogh Museum
houses simply the
most comprehensive

collection of the artist’s
work to be seen
anywhere in the world
– including some of his
most famous paintings.
The collection also
includes works by
other 19th-century
artists (see pp16–19).

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The country’s
largest national museum
houses an unrivalled
collection of 17thcentury Dutch art, and
much besides. Vermeer’s
Milkmaid (left) and

Rembrandt’s Night
Watch are among the
star sights (see p12–15).

B lo

K E I Z E R S G R AC HT

Rijksmuseum

6

ou

Jordaan

HO BB E M AK A D E

Amsterdam’s Top 10

Amsterdam Highlights
Amsterdam has an appeal that is absolutely unique. It’s a vibrant place, a
treasure-trove of extraordinary artistic riches, and the living embodiment of
900 years of history, during which it rose to become the centre of a huge global
empire. After a period of decline, it matured into today’s relaxed and tolerant
modern metropolis. Elegant and serene, Amsterdam also has its seamy side,
and this too is part of its character, as much as its famous network of canals.
Whatever you are looking for, this small city packs a big punch.

DE

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Begijnhof

Amsterdams
Historisch
Museum

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Museum Van Loon

TR

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P LE I N

VIJZE

Oude Kerk
This great Gothic
basilica preserves a
number of its treasures,
despite being stripped of
its paintings and statuary
during the Iconoclasm
(see pp28–9).

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Housed in the old city
orphanage, this vibrant
collection traces the
history of Amsterdam
from the 12th century
(see pp24–7).

Amsterdam’s Top 10

A haven of peace,
the Begijnhof was built
as a refuge for the
Beguines, a lay Catholic
sisterhood. Amsterdam’s
oldest house is here
(see pp22–3).

metres

500

Anne Frankhuis
The hiding place of Anne Frank
and her family, before they were
discovered, arrested and sent to their
deaths, is today a deeply moving
museum (see pp32–3).

DD

EN

LA

AN

Visitors to the Van
Loon family residence on
the Keizersgracht, lovingly
restored in the style of
the mid-18th century, have
a rare opportunity to see
behind the façade of a
grand canal house – and
to wander freely about it
(see pp30–31).

Dam Square
This is where it all started: Amsterdam’s main square is on the site of the

dam on the Amstel around which the
city grew. Now it hosts markets, events
and all shades of city life (see pp34–5).

7


Amsterdam’s Top 10

Canals and Waterways
With their delightful views, pretty bridges (1,281 in all), idiosyncratic gabled
houses and relaxed waterside cafés, Amsterdam’s 75 km (47 miles) of canals
are great fun to explore: full of interest and perfect for a leisurely stroll. They
are a constant reminder that the Netherlands is the world’s flattest country,
half of which has been reclaimed from the sea with the aid of dykes, canals
and, more recently, huge tidal barriers. Before you start exploring
Amsterdam’s canals on foot, however, you should take a boat tour (see pp10
and 136) for a fascinating overview.
Top 10 Canals and
Waterways

Café Van Puffelen

Three perfect
canalside cafés are
Papeneiland, at
Prinsengracht 2, Van
Puffelen, where you
can sit on a barge in
summer (see p102),

and De Sluyswacht
(see p80).
If you are in the
centre of Amsterdam,
with no time to
explore the city’s
canals, at least take a
stroll to the Huis op
de Drie Grachten,
(House on Three
Canals), step-gabled
on all three of its
canal-facing sides, at
Oudezijds
Voorburgwal 249.

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
0

Herengracht
Keizersgracht
Prinsengracht

Entrepotdok
Reguliersgracht
Amstel River
Brouwersgracht
Bloemgracht
Leidsegracht
Singel

Herengracht
Stateliest canal of the
Grachtengordel (see p11),
the Herengracht is
famous for its Golden
Bend – a grand but rather
lifeless stretch of
mansions built for the
richest merchants. A more
beautiful stretch lies
between Huidenstraat and
Leidsestraat, best viewed
from the east side.

Keizersgracht
The central canal of
the Grachtengordel has
fine stretches between
Brouwersgracht and
Raadhuisstraat, and again
between Runstraat and
Leidestraat.

Prinsengracht
The outermost canal of
the Grachtengordel, designed
for warehouses and artisans’
housing, has a breezy, laidback air. It is peppered with
cafés, art galleries and
houseboats. Cycle its 3 km
(2 mile) length, or explore
short stretches on foot.

8


7
3
2
1

8

4

Entrepotdok
An imposing stretch of former
dockland has been restored to provide
offices and apartments, with outdoor
cafés overlooking colourful houseboats.

5

6

Reguliersgracht
Much loved for its
pretty houses and
hump-backed bridges,
Reguliersgracht was
cut in 1664. Look out for
Nos 57, 59 and 63.

Amsterdam’s Top 10

0
9

Amstel River
Until the construction of the Grachtengordel
pushed it out of focus,
the river Amstel was the
city’s raison d’être. It is
still used by barges to
transport goods to the
city’s port.

Brouwersgracht
The happy-go-lucky
feel of the “brewers”
canal’ makes a pleasant
contrast to the sophisticated elegance of the

Grachtengordel.

Bloemgracht
A charming canal
crossed by cast-iron
bridges, Bloemgracht
is known locally as
“the Herengracht of the
Jordaan”, because of
its elaborately gabled
houses.

Leidsegracht
This lovely – and
exclusive – canal was cut
in 1664, when it was the
main barge route from
Amsterdam to Leiden.

Singel
Once a fortified moat,
the Singel is now home
to Bloemenmarkt, the
domed Ronde Lutherse
Kerk and the soaring NeoGothic Krijtberg church.

How Amsterdam’s
Houses are Built
Each house is built on
wooden piles sunk into

the marshy, porous
subsoil. It wasn’t until
the 17th century, when
the piles could be sunk
deep enough to reach
the hard layer of sand
that lies at 13 m (42 ft),
that any real stability
was achieved. Some
reach even further, to a
second layer of sand at
18 m (58 ft). If piles
come into contact with
air, they rot, so today,
concrete is used
instead of wood.

9


Amsterdam’s Top 10

Left Canal tour boat on the Oude Schans Right De Poezenboot

Unexpected Sights on a Canal Tour
The Safest Vaults
The vaults of the Dutch
National Bank are sunk some
15 m (48 ft) below ground level.
In the event of an alarm, they

have been designed to allow the
waters of the Singelgracht to
flood into them.

The Prison Bridge
The Torensluis – the widest
bridge in Amsterdam – spans
the Singel on the site of a 17thcentury sluice gate. A lock-up jail
was built into its foundations.

The Cat Boat
Hundreds of feline
waifs and strays are
given refuge in De
Poezenboot (The Cat
Boat), moored on the
Singel (above).

The Drunken
Tsar

The Oldest Café
Which is really the oldest
café in Amsterdam? It’s Café
Chris, in Bloemstraat, dating
from 1624. A curiosity: the loo is
flushed from the bar.

The Most Crooked Café
Teetering Café de Sluyswacht,

built in 1695, makes an alarming
sight as you glide by along the
Oude Schans (see p80).

The Wrapped-up House
Look carefully at Victoria
Hotel, near the station, and
you will see two tiny 17thcentury houses
embedded in the
monumental 19thcentury façade. A
little old lady, so the
story goes, refused
to sell up, so the
hotel had to wrap
itself around them.

In 1716, Peter the
Great got drunk at his
The Floating
friend Christoffel Brants’
Pagoda
house at Keizersgracht 317,
The vast Sea Palace,
and kept the mayor waiting Peter the Great Amsterdam’s famous
at a civic reception. That
floating Chinese restaurant,
night, he stayed at the house
makes an unusual sight in
of the Russian ambassador,
Oosterdok. With its twinkling

Herengracht 527, where
lights and many windows, it
Napoleon also stayed in 1811.
makes a romantic dinner spot.

The Narrowest House
Is Singel 7 the smallest
house in Amsterdam? No, it’s
simply the back door of a wedgeshaped house, whatever your
tour guide tells you.

10

The Tower of Tears
This medieval defensive
tower has the saddest of names:
Schreierstoren (Tower of Tears),
where weeping women waved
farewell to their seafaring men.


Top 10 Bridges

5
6
7
8
9

0

Magere Brug (Amstel)
Blauwbrug (Amstel)
Hogesluis (Amstel)
Nieuwe Amstelbrug
(Amstel)
Berlagebrug (Amstel)
Torensluis (Singel)
St Antoniessluis
(Zwanenburgwal)
Seven hump-back
bridges (Reguliersgracht)
White wooden
drawbridges (Western
Islands)
Sleutelbrug (Oudezijds
Voorburgwal)

The Grachtengordel
Amsterdam’s magnificent semicircle of three canals –
Prinsengracht, Keizersgracht and Herengracht – is the
city’s defining characteristic. Lined by elegant gabled
houses, and connected by intimate cross-streets, it
was devised in the early 17th century to cope with
the rapid rise in population, and was built in two
stages during the century. This costly Plan of Three
Canals was purely aesthetic, taking no account of
existing waterways. The land along the banks was
sold in single plots; the wealthy bought two together
so that they could build larger houses.

Amsterdam had its unlikely beginnings some 400
years before, when a fishing settlement grew up on
the marshy banks of the river Amstel. (It was dammed in 1222 – hence the name, a contraction of
Amstelledamme.) As the town began to expand,
canals were cut to drain more land and provide
transport channels, and outer canals
were fortified. A glance at a map clearly
shows the limits of the medieval town,
bounded by the curved Singel, with the
Grachtengordel fanning out beyond.

Amsterdam’s Top 10

1
2
3
4

Magere Brug
Built in 1672 and so narrow that it
was named the Skinny Bridge, this
much-loved double-leaf wooden
drawbridge was rebuilt in 1969.

Plan of Amsterdam (1648) showing the Grachtengordel

For details of canal tours See p136

11

Amsterdam’s Top 10

Rijksmuseum
The magnificent national museum of the Netherlands possesses nearly seven
million works of art, only a fraction of which is on display. It was established
by King Louis Napoleon in 1808 in the Royal Palace on the Dam, moving
later to the Trippenhuis on Kloveniersburgwal. In 1865, the architect
P J H Cuypers designed a new home near the Vondelpark; the
Rijksmuseum opened in 1885. The main building is being
renovated (until 2008) and only the Philips Wing is open.

Basement

6
4 57

Ground floor
First floor
Façade of the
Rijksmuseum

The museum’s dull
self-service restaurant
is by the right-hand
front entrance hall.
You might prefer to
head for Indonesian
Sama Sebo, on P. C.
Hoofstraat, or Café

Americain (see p101).
Be prepared: this is a
difficult museum to
get to grips with in a
single visit. To make
matters worse, in
late 2003, the main
building closed for
restoration, during
which the Philips
Wing will stay open,
showing a selection
of works. Until then,
works of art are liable
to move around.
• Stadhouderskade
42/Hobbemastraat 19
• Map D5
• 020 674 7000
• www.rijksmuseum.nl
• Open 9am–6pm;
closed Jan 1. Garden
open 10am–5pm
Tue–Sat, 1–5pm Sun
• Admission €9
(under 19s free);
garden free

12

3

Key

St Elizabeth’s Day Flood
Look carefully at this pastoral
scene, highlight of the museum’s
Dutch History collection, and you
will see that a tragedy is
unfolding. Painted by an
unknown artist in 1500, it
recalls a disastrous flood of
1421, when some 20 villages
were swept away by floodwater.

The Night Watch
The museum’s most prized
possession is The Military Company
of Captain Frans Banning Cocq –
otherwise known as The Night
Watch (1642), given pride of
place at the head of the
Gallery of Honour (see p15).

1

The Jewish Bride
In creating one of the most
tender double portraits ever painted
(1667), Rembrandt depicted – in an

unusually free style – an unknown
couple in the guise of biblical
characters Isaac and Rebecca.

The Milkmaid
The sense of realism
in this magical painting
by Vermeer (c.1658) is
conveyed by his mastery
of light, colour and
perspective. Seen slightly
from below against a
bare wall, the simple,
sturdy girl seems almost
tangible – quiet and still,
but for the milk flowing
from her jug (left).

Bear in mind that from late 2003, the museum will undergo a
major and lengthy restoration See panel above

2


Top 10 Works

Gallant
Conversation
In the 17th century,
paintings of everyday

scenes, called genre
paintings, became very
popular. In this one, by
Gerard Ter Borch (1655),
a scruffy dog, a candle
and a bed convey sexual
meaning, and the man
appears to hold up a coin.

The Windmill at
Wijk
In this impressive painting
(1670) by Jacob van
Ruisdael, a calm scene
becomes a dramatic
picture, full of excitement.

8

Winter Landscape
with Skaters

9

0

Dutch landscape artist
Hendrick Avercamp
specialized in winter
scenes packed with

delightful detail, such as
this one painted in 1608.
The longer you gaze at it,
the more you notice.

Amsterdam’s Top 10

St Elizabeth’s Day Flood
The Night Watch
The Jewish Bride
The Milkmaid
Gallant Conversation
The Windmill at Wijk
Winter Landscape with
Skaters
8 Delftware
9 Dolls House of Petronella
Oortman
0 Portrait of Woman in
Turkish Costume
1
2
3
4
5
6
7

Delftware
The

Rijksmuseum has
a superb collection
of Delftware,
including an
astonishing
pyramid vase
(c. 1700) more
than 1 m (3.2 ft)
high, with spouts
for displaying
highly-prized
tulips (right).

Gallery Guide

Dolls House of
Petronella Oortman
An exquisitely detailed
17th-century miniature
Dutch house, belonging
not to a child but an adult.

Portrait of Woman
in Turkish Costume
Swiss-born Jean-Etienne
Liotard was a portrait artist
who used pastels with
great skill. After a spell
living in Istanbul, he
dressed as a Turk, and he

liked to array his sitters in
Turkish costume as well –
as in this subtle and
delicate painting of 1745.

For more on Dutch Artists See pp46-7

There are three
entrances, two at the
front, either side of the
central driveway which
runs under the building,
and one in the Philips
Wing on Hobbemastraat.
At peak visiting times,
it’s quicker to use this
entrance, housing
Asiatic Art, European
Paintings, Costume and
Textiles and temporary
exhibitions, then make
your way through to the
main building. The
museum’s highlight
collections – Dutch
Paintings and Dutch
17th-century Sculpture
and Decorative Arts –
are on the first floor.

13


Amsterdam’s Top 10

Left, Centre Works by Edvard Munch and Gerard Ter Borch Right Seated Guanyin

Rijksmuseum Features
The Building
The architect P J
H Cuypers attracted
strong criticism from
the Protestant
community, who took
exception to the
building’s Neo-Gothic
roofs and ornately
decorated façade. King
William III refused to
set foot inside.

European Paintings
4

0

Veronese and Goya are
among the Italian and Spanish
masters represented here.
6

A collection of pastels is
displayed separately.

3

5
7

Highlights include
Delftware, dolls
houses (see p13),
glassware and
furniture, as well as the
remarkable Chinese Room
from Leeuwarden.

9

8

The Garden
A little-known,
immaculate haven, it is
studded with statues and
architectural curiosities.

Sculpture and
Decorative Arts

6

Museum
Floorplan

Dutch History
The museum’s collection
includes a chronological display
of artifacts tracing the history
of the Netherlands. Highlights
include St Elizabeth’s Day Flood
(see p12) and The Battle of
Waterloo by Jan Willem
Pieneman.

Costumes and Textiles

Magnificent costumes
and textiles, mostly 18th- and
19th-century, are displayed in
temporary, themed exhibitions.

Asiatic Art
Here, the fruits of Dutch
association with the Orient are
on display – including beautiful
works of art from India,
Indonesia, China and Japan.

Dutch Paintings
Walk through the Gallery of

Honour to survey The Night
Watch, then begin the tour
proper with paintings of the
Middle Ages (Room 201). The
museum’s core is its astonishing
array of 17th-century Dutch art,
in which every important Dutch
artist is represented by a
selection of his greatest works.
Move on to the 18th- and 19thcentury collections, including a
Van Gogh self-portrait.

14

Print Room
The museum owns almost a
million works on paper – a small
selection is shown in temporary
exhibitions in the Print Room on
the ground floor.

ARIA
The ARIA computer system
offers information on 1,250
items from the collection, and
helps you to design your own
route around the museum.


Top 10 Events in

Rembrandt’s Life

Popular belief holds Rembrandt’s greatest painting,
The Night Watch (1642), responsible for his change
in fortune from rich man to pauper. In fact, it was
more a case of poor financial management than of
public dissatisfaction with the artist, although it’s very
likely that the militiamen who commissioned the
portrait would have been dismayed at the result. The
Night Watch differs radically from other contemporary
portraits of companies of civic guards, in which they
are depicted seated, serious and soberly dressed
(see p26). Rembrandt, by contrast, shows a tumultuous scene – the captain issuing orders to his
lieutenant, the men taking up arms ready to march.
This huge painting was originally even larger, but it
was drastically cut down in 1715, when it was moved
to the town hall, and the other pieces were lost. In
1975 it was slashed, but repaired.

Amsterdam’s Top 10

1 Born in Leiden (1606)
2 Studies with Pieter
Lastman (1624)
3 Receives first important
commission and
marries Saskia van
Uylenburgh (1634)
4 Reputation grows; buys
large house in

Amsterdam (1639) –
now the Museum het
Rembrandthuis
5 Titus, his only child to
survive into adulthood,
is born (1641)
6 Saskia dies; The Night
Watch completed (1642)
7 Hendrickje Stoffels
moves in (1649)
8 Applies for bankruptcy
(1656)
9 Titus and Hendrickje
acquire the rights to his
work
0 Death of Titus (1668); in
October of the following
year, Rembrandt dies

Rembrandt and The
Night Watch

Self-Portrait as
St Paul
Rembrandt’s series of
self-portraits, painted
throughout his life,
provide an extraordinary insight into
his character.

The Military Company of Captain Frans Banning Cocq – better known as The Night Watch

15


Amsterdam’s Top 10

Van Gogh Museum
The most comprehensive collection in the world of Van Gogh’s work was
amassed by his art dealer brother Theo, and is housed in this museum. It
includes more than 200 of his paintings, over 500 drawings and hundreds of
letters, as well as his Japanese prints and works by contemporaries – though
not all are on permanent display. Gerrit Rietveld’s airy building, opened in
1973, sets off the paintings to perfection. The display follows Van Gogh’s
development from the murky peasant scenes of the early 1880s
to the anguished final works. An ellipse-shaped extension
designed by Kisho Kurokawa was added in 1999.

4
Van Gogh Museum façade

The museum has a
useful self-service
café, situated on the
ground floor.
To avoid the crowds,
arrive at opening
time. Stick to the
chronological order
of the display, and

read the excellent
English labels.
• Paulus Potterstraat 7
• Map C6
• 020 570 5200
• www.vangogh
museum.nl
• Open 10am–6pm daily,
10am–10pm Fri
• Admission: adults €9;
children 13–17 €2.50
(under 13s free)
• Audio tours free;
group tours by
appointment

Sunflowers
This vibrant painting (1889)
was intended to be one of a
series of still lifes to fill the
“Yellow House” at Arles. Van
Gogh chose sunflowers because
he was expecting Paul Gauguin,
and knew his friend liked them.
The predominant yellows and
oranges contrast with strokes
of brilliant mauve and red.

The Potato Eaters
The culmination of his

years in Nuenen, this was Van
Gogh’s first major composition
(1885). He wanted to portray
the peasants realistically, not
glamorize them, but the
painting was not the critical
success he had hoped for.

16

0

9

86

5
3
1
7

2

The Bridge in the
Rain
This work, painted in
1887, illustrates Van
Gogh’s interest in
Japanese art, in particular
Utagawa Hiroshige.

However, Van Gogh used
far brighter colours and
greater contrasts.


Top 10 Paintings

7
8
9
0

Sunflowers
The Potato Eaters
The Bridge in the Rain
A Pair of Shoes
Self-Portrait as an Artist
Fishing Boats on the
Beach at Les SaintesMaries-de-la-Mer
Vincent’s Bedroom in Arles
The Reaper
Almond Blossom
Wheatfield with Crows

A Pair of Shoes
Van Gogh gives
character to a pair of
worn boots in one of
the first paintings after
his move to Paris (1886).

The dark palette harks
back to his Nuenen work.

Self-Portrait as an
Artist
The last and most
accomplished in a series
of self-portraits painted
in 1887, shortly before he
left Paris, reveals Van
Gogh’s distinctive interpretation of Pointillism.
He chose himself as
subject since he could
seldom afford models.

Fishing Boats on
the Beach at Les
Saintes-Maries-de-laMer
A trip to the sea in 1888
produced these colourful,
stylized boats. Look close
and you will see grains of
sand, blown on to the
canvas and fixed there
forever as the paint dried.

Amsterdam’s Top 10

1
2

3
4
5
6

Vincent’s
Bedroom in Arles
The mastery of this
painting (1888) lies in the
simplicity of the subject
and the subtly alternating
blocks of colour. Van
Gogh was so happy with
the result that he made
two copies (see p19).

Almond Blossom
The Reaper
While undergoing
treatment in Saint-Rémy,
Van Gogh found solace
painting people who
worked the land. He
painted three versions of
The Reaper (1889).

Wheatfield with
Crows

Key

Basement
Ground floor
First floor
Second floor
Third floor

One of the panoramic
landscapes that Van Gogh
painted in 1890, during
the last days of his life,
this famous picture with
its dead-end track and
menacing, crow-filled sky,
perhaps reveals his
tortured state of mind.

Van Gogh made this
picture of white almond
blossom against a blue
sky for his new nephew,
born in January 1890 and
named after him.

Museum Guide
Van Gogh’s paintings
are displayed by date
and place of execution
on the first floor of the
main building. Works by
contemporaries are split

between ground and
third floor. Exhibitions of
drawings and graphic
art are staged on the
second floor, which also
has a study area, where
drawings and documents
too fragile to be displayed can be viewed. The
new wing has three
floors, devoted to
temporary exhibitions.

For more Amsterdam museums See pp40–41

17


Amsterdam’s Top 10

Left Exhausted Maenads Centre Amsterdam cityscape by Monet Right Gauguin self-portrait

Van Gogh Museum: Other Artists
View of Prins
Hendrikkade
and the Kromme
Waal in Amsterdam

1
85
6 04

7

Saint Geneviève as
a Child in Prayer
An oil study (1876) by
Puvis de Chavannes for
the huge murals he
painted on the theme
of St Geneviève’s
childhood at the
Panthéon in Paris.

Monet painted this
cityscape in winter
1874 from a boat on
the IJ river.

Young Peasant
Girl with a Hoe

29
3

Jules Breton was an
idol of Van Gogh. In
rural scenes like this one
(1882), he places an idealized
figure in a realistic setting.

Exhausted Maenads after

the Dance
In this Lawrence Alma-Tadema
painting of 1874, three devotees
(maenads) of the wine god
Bacchus have fallen asleep.

Portrait of Guus
Preitinger, the Artist’s Wife
The vivid use of colour in Kees
van Dongen’s portrait of his wife
(1911) is characteristic of
Fauvism.

Museum
Floorplan

Self-Portrait with
a Portrait of
Bernard, “Les
Misérables”

In his powerful self-portrait
(1888), Gauguin identified himself with the hero of Les
Misérables, Jean Valjean.

“Grand Paysan”
Jules Dalou shared Van
Gogh’s preoccupation with
peasants, whom he saw as
heroic labourers. He devised this

life-size sculpture in 1889.

Two Women Embracing
Van Gogh’s influence on the
Dutch artist Jan Sluijters is
obvious in the brushwork and
colour of this painting of 1906.

Young Woman at a Table,
“Poudre de Riz”
This early painting by ToulouseLautrec (1887), who became a
friend of Van Gogh, is probably
of his mistress, Suzanne Valadon.

Portrait of Bernard’s
Grandmother
Van Gogh swapped one of his
self-portraits for this painting
(1887) by Emile Bernard.

18

Portrait of Bernard’s Grandmother


The Life of Vincent
van Gogh

Top 10 19th-Century
Artists

1 Vincent van Gogh

Amsterdam’s Top 10

(1853–1890)
Born on 30 March 1853 in Zundert, Vincent van
2 Claude Monet
Gogh was the eldest son of a pastor and his wife.
(1840–1926)
Aged 16, he joined his uncle’s business Goupil & Co.,
3 Pierre Auguste Renoir
art dealers. Seven years later, displaying increasingly
(1841–1919)
erratic behaviour, he was dismissed. After a couple
4 Paul Cézanne
of false starts as teacher and evangelist, in 1880 he
(1839–1906)
decided to be a painter. From 1883 to 1885, he
5 Auguste Rodin
lived with his parents in Nuenen, but in 1886 he
(1840–1917)
went to Paris to study in Fernand Cormon’s studio.
6 Edouard Manet
He lived with his brother Theo, met renowned artists
(1832–83)
and changed his style. In 1888,
7 Edgar Degas
he moved to Arles where he
(1834–1917)
dreamed of establishing an

8 J M W Turner
artists’ colony with Paul
(1775–1851)
Gauguin. Soon after
9 Eugène Delacroix
Gauguin arrived, the
(1798–1863)
friends had a fierce
0 Jean-Baptiste Camille
argument, and during a
Corot (1796–1875)
psychotic attack, Van
Gogh cut off a piece of
his own left ear lobe. He enrolled as a voluntary patient in
a clinic in Saint-Rémy in 1889. The following year he left
for the rural village Auvers-sur-Oise, where his state of mind
deteriorated and he shot himself in the chest on 27 July 1890.
He died, with Theo at his bedside, two days later.
Vincent Van Gogh

Vincent’s Bedroom in Arles by Van Gogh

19