Introduction to coastal hydrodynamics

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INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL HYDRODYNAMICS

The Coastal Areas are Popular

Coastal Development

1


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Coastal Infrastructure

Coastal Protection

Natural Environment

2


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Shipping and Transportation

Coastal Areas as
Receiving Waters

Design of Structures

3


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Conflict Between Man and Sea

Course Content

Wave Properties...
...wave energy...

...particle movement

4


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Wave Generation and Propagation

Wave Transformation in Shallow Water

Refraction

Shoaling &

Refraction

5

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Deep Water: ”Chaotic” Wave Conditions

Shallow Water: More ”Organized” Wave Conditions

Shallow Water:
Breaking Waves

6


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Plunging Wave

Through the Surf Zone....

...Up On the Beach

7


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Statistical Properties of Waves

Diffraction

Reflection

8


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Wave Transformation in the Nearshore

Diffraction Behind a Breakwater

Water Level Variations &..

..Climate Change

9