101 kỹ thuật cắt may từ A tới Z - 101 sewing techniques and definitions

THE

Sew tionary

AN A TO Z GUIDE TO 101 SEWING
TECHNIQUES + DEFINITIONS
TASIA ST. GERMAINE


Contents
Introduction
How To Use This Book
ABUTTED SEAM
APPLIQUÉ
BACKSTITCH
BAR TACK
BASTING
BELT LOOPS
BIAS
BIAS TAPE
BINDING
BLANKET STITCH
BONING
BORDER PRINT
BOUND BUTTONHOLE
BUTTON LOOPS
BUTTONHOLES
BUTTON OVERLAP
BUTTONS
BUTTONS, COVERED

CASING
CATCHSTITCH
CUFF
DARTS
EASE
EASESTITCH
EDGESTITCH
ELASTIC
FACING
FLAT-FELLED SEAM


FLY CLOSURE
FRENCH SEAM
FRENCH TACK
GATHERING
GODET
GRAIN LINE
HAIR CANVAS
HEM FACING
HEMMING
HOOK & EYE, HOOK & BAR
HORSEHAIR BRAID
INTERFACING
INTERLINING
KNIT FABRIC
LAPPED SEAM
LINING
MEASURING
MUSLIN

NAP
NARROW HEM
OVERCAST STITCH
PADSTITCH
PATTERN MEASUREMENTS
PINKING
PIPING
PLACKET
PLAID
PLEATS
POCKETS, INSEAM
POCKETS, PATCH
POCKETS, SLASH
POCKETS, WELT
PRESS CLOTH
PRESSING


PREWASHING (PRESHRINKING)
PRINCESS SEAM
PRINTED FABRIC
REINFORCE
RUFFLE
SEAM ALLOWANCE
SEAM FINISH, BOUND
SEAM FINISH, HONG KONG
SEAM FINISH, PINKED
SEAM FINISH, SERGED OR OVERLOCKED
SEAM FINISH, TURNED AND STITCHED
SEAM FINISH, ZIGZAGGED

SEAM ROLL
SELVEDGE OR SELVAGE
SET-IN SLEEVES
SHOULDER PAD
SLEEVE HEAD
SLIPSTITCH
SNAPS
SPAGHETTI STRAPS
STAYSTITCH
STAY TAPE
STITCH IN THE DITCH
STRIPES
TAILOR’S HAM
TAILOR’S TACKS
THREAD LOOPS
TOPSTITCH
TRIMMING
TUCKS
UNDERLINING
UNDERSTITCH
WAISTBAND
WHIPSTITCH


YOKE
ZIPPER, CENTERED
ZIPPER, HAND-PICKED
ZIPPER, INVISIBLE
ZIPPER, LAPPED
Resources

Dedication and Acknowledgments
About the Author



Introduction
Sewing, like any new interest, comes with a whole new language of terms. Basting?
Stitch in the ditch? Underlining? What are they talking about, and which definitions
do I need to learn right away? People who sew use many of these terms, so often it
becomes second nature. Because they’re so familiar with sewing vocabulary, they may
assume that you know what they mean! You may also recognize some of these terms
from clothing, like shoulder pads and hemming, but aren’t sure how to use them in
your sewing projects.
This book defines and explains 101 common sewing terms, complete with step-bystep photo tutorials so you can practice and master each one.
I wanted this book to be an easy reference guide with great visuals. Many sewing
books are a great read from start to finish, but they aren’t the easiest to use as a
reference later on. When you’re wondering where you read that great tutorial on
bound buttonholes, or you can’t remember which side of a blouse overlaps on top on a
woman’s blouse (answer: the right!), this is the book for you.
I also want to give you options and real-life examples of what each technique is
used for. Why should you bother to learn how to make a French tack? What’s the
point of horsehair braid? When I’m learning a new skill, I want to know why a
technique is important and how to apply it to my projects—tell me why I should want
to learn this skill. It’s even more useful to see real-life examples and ways to apply the
different skills, so I’ve included these as well as useful tips and suggestions to help
you master these techniques.


HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
Have you come across a sewing term you don’t understand or a technique that’s new

to you? Simply look it up alphabetically! This book is organized alphabetically, which
makes it quick and easy to find the answer to your sewing question.
For each term, I’ve explained what it is, when you might use it and how to apply it
to your sewing projects. Each tutorial is clearly photographed so it’s easy to follow.
I’ve used contrast thread in many of the demonstrations, so it stands out and you can
see what’s happening, even though you may want to use matching thread on your
projects. Whenever possible, I’ve included ideas, variations and suggestions to take
your sewing to the next level.
This book’s wire-bound design allows it to open flat and stay open, so you can
keep it at your sewing machine or on your workstation. It’s easy to look up terms as
you sew, or you can keep the book open beside you as you work through some of the
more challenging techniques.
Whenever a tutorial or definition mentions another sewing term, the page number
is provided for easy cross-referencing. There’s also an index at the back, so you’ll have
many ways to find the info you need. From A to Z, I have you covered!
If you’re brand new to sewing, flip through the book and stop when you see a term
that’s familiar but you aren’t sure how it applies to sewing. Do you have sewing
patterns ready for your first couple of projects? Read through the pattern instructions
and highlight any new terms to look up in Sewtionary. Or simply read through the
book from start to finish. No matter what stage you’re at on your sewing journey, I’m
certain these pages will teach you many new things.

Happy sewing!


A Abutted Seam
WHAT IS IT?
An abutted seam is a flat seam used to join two layers of fabric without overlapping them. Instead the two
layers are butted close to each other, without either layer going on top of the other. There is no seam
allowance in an abutted seam; the two pieces touch along the seam line without overlapping and are

sewn together with a zigzag stitch or other type of wide stitch. Seam binding or stay tape can be used to
bridge the gap and strengthen the seam at the same time.

Abutted seam from the front


Abutted seam from the back

Abutted seam

WHEN DO YOU USE IT?
An abutted seam is good for sewing flat, nonbulky seams in heavy or stiff fabrics.
It’s most often used as part of the interior construction, where the seams are
hidden and not visible on the outside of the garment. You wouldn’t want to use
this seam for actual garment seams unless it’s an intentional design detail. This
type of seam construction isn’t used frequently, but it does come in handy! If you
are adding a layer of padding to a garment—for example, cotton batting in the
bodice of a dress—then abutted seams are a good choice. A regular seam sewn and
pressed open in cotton batting would be thick and lumpy. If you need to sew
seams or darts in hair canvas interfacing (page 92), abutted seams work nicely
because they don’t add bulk.

Tips + Notes
Y ou may find it easier to sew the abutted seams with the seam binding side up. I sew them with the seam
binding on the underside so the batting doesn’t get caught in the machine.
To sew abutted seams on curved seam lines, pin the first side of the curved seam normally. When you pin
the other side, drape it over your other hand to form the curve.
For extrastrong seams, stitch up and down the seam a few times.

HOW TO SEW AN ABUTTED SEAM

1 To prepare the pieces for sewing an abutted seam, trim off the seam allowances. To
do this, measure the seam allowance amount from the raw edge, and draw in the seam
line. Then trim along this line evenly.

2 Measure the seam, and cut a piece of seam binding, stay tape or any type of stable,
nonstretch, thin tape. Cut your seam binding a little bit longer than your seam line, about
½" (1.3cm) longer on each end, so you can see where it is at the top and bottom of the
seam. Pin the tape underneath one side of the seam, letting the fabric cover about half
of the tape.


3 Pin the other side of the fabric to the seam binding or stay tape so that the edges
meet. Using the stay tape makes it easier to sew the zigzag stitch and adds a protective
layer to strengthen the seam. Pin with the points facing upward, so the pin heads are
easy to remove as you sew.

4 Set your machine to a zigzag stitch. You could use a fancier wide stitch, but a zigzag
is simple and effective. Center your work under the machine needle, and zigzag over the
seam line. If the edges of the fabric pull apart as you sew, stop and readjust the layers
so the zigzag catches both sides.
Trim off the extra seam binding after the seam is sewn.


A Appliqué
WHAT IS IT?
Appliqué is a technique featuring pieces of fabric stitched on top of the main fabric as decoration. Appliqué
can be sewn to a garment by hand or machine. Instead of cut pieces of fabric, you can buy premade
appliqués to attach to your garment.

Purchased appliqué on Saltspring Dress

Appliqué detail

WHEN DO YOU USE IT?
Use appliqués as decoration on just about anything—blouses, dresses or skirts;
pocket openings, bodices, necklines, monograms, skirt hems or anywhere you
like. Appliqués can be sewn all over the garment, placed evenly along hemlines or
edges, or used to highlight specific areas like the waistline.


Depending on the project, you can either apply the appliqué before the
garment is constructed or once the garment is fully sewn. Applying it before the
garment is sewn is the easiest to do, since the fabric pieces are flat. This is the
best way to add appliqués to small areas and the easiest to machine-appliqué.
This is also the best method if you are confident on where to place the appliqué.
Sewing the appliqué in place after the garment is finished lets you pick the
perfect placement. Try the garment on a dress form or yourself, pin the appliqué
in place and adjust until it’s in the perfect place, then sew it on securely. To sew
an appliqué to a completed garment, handsewing is best unless the area is easy to
access by machine, such as the hemline.

Tips + Notes
If your purchased appliqué is cotton or a natural fiber, you may want to prewash the appliqué first, before
applying it to your project, especially if the finished project will be washed and not dry-cleaned. Wet the
appliqué thoroughly and let it dry before sewing it on.
Consider where you’re placing delicate or intricate appliqués, like beaded ones. Are they going to be
abrasive? Are they located in a spot that’s going to be rubbed and worn?
Beaded appliqués are best applied by hand. The machine’s presser foot could damage the beads and the

bumpiness makes it difficult to feed through the machine.
For interesting appliqués, cut out motifs from a printed fabric. Shapes with well-defined edges work best,
like flowers with distinct outlines.

HOW TO APPLIQUÉ PIECES OF FABRIC BY HAND


1 Cut out the appliqué shape, adding a ¼" (6mm) seam allowance all around the
edges. If you are cutting multiple pieces of the same shape, make a template from
cardboard.

2 Staystitch (page 202) around the edges and fold the seam allowance to the wrong
side. Clip edges (page 221) where necessary so the curves form nicely.
To press the edges, use the cardboard template and wrap the edges around the
cardboard edge to the wrong side. Press with the iron.


3 Hand baste (page 18) the appliqué in place, catching the folded seam allowance so it
doesn’t flip out to the right side.

4 Handsew the appliqué around the edges. You can use a blanket stitch (page 31),
slipstitch (page 194) or any stitch you prefer. Blanket stitches will be visible, while a
slipstitch will hide your stitches.

HOW TO APPLIQUÉ PIECES OF FABRIC BY MACHINE


1 Apply a fusible adhesive to the wrong side of the appliqué fabric. This adhesive
comes with a paper backing that peels off like a sticker. Use it to stick the appliqué to
the garment fabric. Apply to the wrong side of your fabric, with the paper side up.

2 Trace around your template, or draw your appliqué design directly onto the paper
backing. Cut out the appliqué shape through both the fabric and the backing, without
adding any seam allowance.


3 Peel off the backing and place the appliqué sticky side down on the right side of your
garment. Fuse the appliqué in place with an iron.

4 Set your machine to sew a satin stitch by switching it to the zigzag function and
shortening the stitch length to nearly zero. Doing so creates a very dense zigzag stitch
that looks like a thick solid line. Sew around the edges of the appliqué, pivoting around
curves and at corners. I find it easier to pivot when the needle is in position at the outer
edge of the appliqué. When you reach the starting point, pull the threads to the back, tie
in a knot and clip threads.

HOW TO APPLIQUÉ PIECES OF FABRIC WITH EDGES
FINISHED


1 Cut out the appliqué shape, adding a ¼" (6mm) seam allowance. If you are cutting
multiple pieces of the same shape, make a template from cardboard. For each
appliqué, cut two pieces of fabric. Sew each appliqué pair together with a ¼" (6mm)
seam, right sides together, and leave a small opening for turning. Clip curves, notch
outer edges and trim corners (page 221).

2 Turn right side out and press the shape flat, then turn in the edges of the opening in
line with the sewn edges.

3 Position the appliqué and hand baste (page 18) the appliqué in place. Catch the

folded seam allowance so it doesn’t flip out to the right side. Edgestitch (page 69)
around the appliqué with a straight machine stitch, sewing your row of stitching an even


distance from the turned edge.

HOW TO APPLY A PURCHASED APPLIQUÉ BY HAND
Place the appliqué where you want it and hand baste. Some purchased appliqués will
come with an adhesive backing. If yours does, read the directions on the packaging to
adhere the appliqué to your project. Thread a sewing needle with thread to match the
appliqué. I’m using a contrast thread so it’s easy to see. Handsew around the appliqué
with a blanket stitch (page 31). Place the stitches close together to create a satin-stitch
effect. Continue around the edges of the appliqué until you reach the starting point.

HOW TO APPLY A PURCHASED APPLIQUÉ BY MACHINE
Decide where to place the appliqué. Hand baste it in place before sewing permanently,
or use a fabric glue or the adhesive backing to secure the appliqué without pins. Pins
will make it bumpy and harder to sew the appliqué on evenly. Sew around the edges of
the appliqué. Use a zigzag stitch or satin stitch set to the same width as the appliqué’s
edging. Sew around the edges of the appliqué until you reach the starting point.


B Backstitch
WHAT IS IT?
Backstitching refers to two different types of stitching, depending on whether it is done by hand or by
machine. Backstitching by machine is when you stitch backward over the previous stitching to secure the
ends. Without backstitching, seams can unravel at the start and end points. Backstitch also refers to a type
of hand stitching that is worked backward. Hand backstitching is strong and flexible. Most times, when
you see the term “backstitch” in modern sewing instructions, it refers to the machine stitching definition.

Backstitching done by machine

Backstitching done by hand

WHEN DO YOU USE IT?


Backstitch every time you sew a seam by machine. The only time you don’t
backstitch is when you’re planning to remove the line of stitching later, for
example, when basting (page 18) or gathering (page 86). Permanent stitching is
always backstitched; temporary stitching is not.
Backstitching by hand is used when sewing seams by hand. It’s the strongest
hand stitch! Before sewing machines, this was the most frequently used stitch for
sewing seams in clothing. Hand backstitching is still used in couture sewing, even
though it has rarely been used in home sewing since the introduction of home
sewing machines.

Tips + Notes
When machine backstitching, if you don’t want visible backstitches at the ends of your stitching, you can
“zero stitch” instead. Change the stitch length to zero, and make several (five to eight) machine stitches in
place to secure the row of stitching. This is effective when you are topstitching (page 218) in a visible area,
especially when sewing with a contrast thread color. Substitute zero stitching for backstitching anywhere
that backstitching would be unsightly.
Another way to secure the threads by machine is to stop stitching without backstitching, clip the threads
but leave long thread tails and remove the piece from the sewing machine. Use a pin to pull the top thread
tail to the underside of the fabric, then tie both thread tails in a knot to secure.

HOW TO BACKSTITCH BY MACHINE
Find the backstitch function on your sewing machine. Most modern machines have a
backstitch button that has to be pressed down to keep the machine sewing backward;

when you release the button, it will sew forward again. Older machines might have a
backstitch switch or lever that allows you to switch between sewing forward and
sewing in reverse. Check your sewing machine’s manual if you aren’t sure.


1 Starting at the top of your seam, sew about five stitches forward, then press the
backstitch button and sew four or five stitches backward. Release the button and sew
the rest of the seam normally.

2 When you reach the end of your seam, sew right to the edge of the fabric, press the
backstitch button and sew five stitches in reverse, then continue sewing to the edge of
your fabric. Trim the thread tails on each end of your seam.

HOW TO BACKSTITCH BY HAND
Thread a handsewing needle with thread. Tie both ends of the thread in a knot so
you’re working with a doubled thread. In the demonstration, I’m using embroidery
thread and a big needle, so it’s easy to see. Stitches will be smaller and less noticeable
with regular sewing thread.


1 Working from right to left, take a small stitch in the seam and bring the needle
through to the right side of the fabric. Insert the needle back into the starting point, slide
it under the first stitch and bring the needle through the right side, one stitch ahead of
the previous stitch. Repeat until you reach the end. There should be no space between
the stitches.

2 Here’s what it will look like on the opposite side. You’re essentially sewing loops of
thread around the two layers to hold them together. The reverse side shows the loops
of thread.