Christie’s World Encyclopedia of Champagne & Sparkling Wine doc

Tom Stevenson’s
Champagne &
Sparkling Wine
Guide
2003


‘An authority acknowledged even
by the Champenois…’
The Sunday Times

Voted Best Wine Guide by World Food Media Awards


Contents
• Foreword
• Sparkling Wine - How it is made
• Storing and Serving Sparkling Wine
• Sparkling wine styles
• This Year's Tastings
• The Guide's 100-point Scoring System
• Comparative performance tables
• A-Z of tasting notes
• Glossary

Foreword
This is the final edition of my fizz guide and to tell the truth it’s a relief to know that I don’t have
to put myself through this particular treadmill again. A combination of logistical, personal and
work problems in the one year when I was supposed to be updating my Christie’s World
Encyclopedia of Champagne & Sparkling Wine delayed both that book and this one. When I
eventually finished this fizz guide, it was far too late for me to contemplate selling it. How could

I ask money for a buyer’s guide that would be 12 months late? I couldn’t, but it was no one
else’s fault, and not only did I feel a debt to those who had submitted their wines in good faith,
but I also did not want to let down my readers, who expected another edition. The only
honourable course was to strip away the prices, update the notes with wines I had tasted in the
meantime, and offer my last edition as a free download. The contents have not gone through the
traditional system of copy editing, so there might be even more typos than usual!

Tom Stevenson
August 2003

Sparkling Wine - How it is made
The theory behind sparkling wine is simple. Fermentation converts sugar into alcohol and
carbonic gas - if the gas is set free the wine is still, if not, it is sparkling. To capture the gas, the
wine undergoes a second fermentation in a sealed container. The gas gushes out in the form of
tiny bubbles when the container is opened. According to research carried out by Moët &
Chandon there are on average 250 million bubbles in a bottle of sparkling wine. The internal
pressure in a bottle of sparkling wine is equivalent to the pressure of a double-decker bus tyre.

The Grapes
Various are used, but Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are best for premium quality sparkling wine -
they are relatively neutral, with a good balance of sugar and acidity when ripe.

Cuve Close Method
Most cheap fizz is produced by cuve close (or "Charmat" or "tank" method). Both fermentations
take place in large vats, then the wine is bottled under pressure. As cuve close is a bulk-
production method it attracts low-calibre base wines, but the speed and minimum yeast contact
makes it perfect for sweet, aromatic fizz such as Asti.

Méthode champenoise
The greatest brut-style (dry) sparkling wines are made by méthode champenoise. As in cuve

close, the first fermentation takes place en masse, sometimes in oak barriques, but the second
takes place in the actual bottle in which the wine is sold.

Méthode champenoise terms
In the European Union the term méthode champenoise is reserved for Champagne. However, the
terms below are all synonymous with it.


English-Language
Countries
Traditional Method

France
Méthode Traditionnelle
Méthode Classique
"Crémant" appellations


Spain
Método tradicional
"Cava" appellation

Italy
Metodo Classico
Metodo Tradizionale
“Talento”

Germany
Flaschengärung nach dem Traditionellen
Verfahren

Klassische Flaschengärung
Traditionelle Flaschengärung

South Africa
Cap Classique


Malolactic Conversion
Most fizz undergoes "malolactic", a natural process of fermentation that converts hard malic acid
into soft lactic acid and adds creaminess to the wine. Of the few producers who prevent the
malolactic, Bollinger, Alfred Gratien, Krug and Lanson are the most famous. In the New World
the malolactic is often overworked because grapes are picked early, and have higher levels of
malic acid.

Blending and the Prise de Mousse
The blending (assemblage) of the base wine is undertaken after the first fermentation. The
champenois are the masters of this, and may create a non-vintage cuvée from as many as 70 base
wines. Sugar, selected yeasts, yeast nutrients and a clarifying agent are then added to induce the
mousse. The second fermentation is often referred to as the prise de mousse, or "capturing the
sparkle", and it can take months to complete. In contract to the first fermentation, which should
be relatively fast and warm, the second is slow and cool.

Autolysis
When the second fermentation is complete, the yeast cells undergo an enzymatic breakdown
called autolysis, which is epitomized by an acacia-like flowery freshness. Good autolysis adds
complexity and ensures finesse.

Remuage and Disgorgement
In méthode champenoise only, the yeast deposit created during the second fermentation is
encouraged down the neck of the inverted bottle into a small plastic pot held in place by a crown-

cap. Remuage (or riddling), as this is called, takes eight weeks by hand, or eight days by
machine. The sediment is removed (disgorged) by immersing the bottle in freezing brine, and
ejecting the semi-frozen pot without losing too much wine or gas.

The Dosage
Before corking, the liqueur d'expédition is added. In all cases except extra brut (very dry), this
will include some sugar. The younger the wine, the greater the dosage of sugar required.

Storing and Serving Sparkling Wine
Most fizz is best drunk within a year or so. Only a few cuvées are capable of developing truly
complex aromas and flavours after disgorgement.

Why Store?
Typically, Chardonnay turns "toasty" and Pinot Noir "biscuity", although the reverse in possible
and even a whiff of clean sulphur can in time contribute to the toastiness of a wine. Some first-
class Chardonnays develop specific, complex aromas such as flowery hazelnuts, creamy brazil
nuts and mellow walnuts. The greatest Champagnes can age gracefully for decades, to create rich
nuances of macaroons, coconut, cocoa and coffee.

How to Store
Fizz is more sensitive to temperature and light than other wines, but there should be no problem
keeping it for a year or two at any fairly constant temperature between 12 and 18
o
C (40-60
o
F).
Higher temperatures increase the rate of oxidation; erratic temperatures can seriously damage the
wine. If you do not have a cellar, keep it in a cool place inside a box. Very long-term storage
should be at 9-11
o

C (48-52
o
F) in total darkness. There is no reason why bottles should be stored
horizontally apart from to save space: the CO2 in the bottle neck keeps the cork moist and
swollen even when upright. Some Champagnes have retained their sparkle for a century under
ideal conditions.
Some Champagnes, such as Roederer Cristal, are shipped with a yellow, anti-UV wrapping,
which you should leave on while storing. Brown-glass bottles offer better protection against
ultra-violet than green-glass, and dead-leaf or dark green is better than light or bright green.

Chilling
Temperature determines the rate at which bubbles in a sparkling wine are released. Bubbly
should not be opened at room temperature - the wine will quickly froth up and go flat. Chill it,
ideally down to 4.5-7
o
C (40-45
o
F), the lower temperature for parties and receptions where the
room temperature is likely to rise.
It is okay to chill wine in a refrigerator for a couple of hours, but try not to leave it longer
than a day because the cork might stick or shrink. Emergency chilling of a sparkling wine by
putting it in the coldest part of a deep-freeze for 15 minutes is fine.
A bucket of ice and water (never just ice, the water is essential for transferring
temperatures) is still one of the best and quickest ways to chill a bottle of fizz, but faster still are
the gel-filled jackets that are kept in the deep freeze and slip over the bottle for about six
minutes. A useful tip when using either ice-buckets or gel-filled jackets is to invert the bottle
gently two or three times before opening. This prevents the wine in the neck being significantly
warmer than the rest of the bottle, which reduces the chance of the wine gushing like a fountain
when the bottle, not to mention ensuring that the first will be as chilled as the last.

Opening
Remember that the secret of success is to try and prevent the cork from actually coming out.
Remove the foil to begin, or simply score around the base of the wire cage. Then gently untwist
the wire and loosen the bottom of the cage, but don't remove it. Hold the bottle with a cloth if
you are a novice, and completely enclose the cork and cage in one hand (the right, if you are
right-handed). Holding the base of the bottle with your other hand, twist both ends slowly in
opposite directions, backwards and forwards. As soon as you feel pressure forcing the cork out,
actually try to push it back in whilst continuing the twisting operation ever more gently until the
cork is released from the bottle with a sigh, not a bang.

Pouring
A good tip is to pour only a little into each glass so that by the time you return to the first glass
its foam will already have settled. The alternative is to wait ages for each one to settle as you are
pouring. Top up each glass to between two-thirds and three-quarters of the vessel - no more. Do
not tilt the glass and pour gently down the inside, it is not lager!

Glasses
A flute or a tulip-shaped glass is ideal and almost any vessel other than a coupe will suffice. The
wide, shallow coupe is the worst possible choice for sparkling wine because the mousse goes flat
far too quickly and the wine's aroma cannot be appreciated. Whatever glass shape used, the finer
the rim the better.

Sparkling wine styles
Categories of style include basic divisions of sweetness, vintage and non-vintage, grape variety,
colour and degree of mousse.

Sweetness
Brut is the classic style of dry sparkling wine, with Extra-Brut and Brut Nature being drier still.
These terms are all widely used on an international basis despite their French origin, whereas the
progressively sweeter styles of Sec, Extra-Sec, Demi-Sec and Doux are invariably translated,

thus Sec becomes Seco in Portugal and Spain, Secco in Italy and Trocken in Germany (see
Glossary for more details).

What's in a Vintage?
A Champagne vintage implies that the harvest was exceptional, while for most other fizz
"vintage" is best regarded as a statement of age, not quality. Vintage Champagne must be 100
per cent from the year, but elsewhere it varies (95 per cent in California; 85 in Australia). Store
vintage Champagne for 8-10 years from the date of harvest. The term non-vintage (NV) sounds
derogatory to many people, but wines from various years can be skilfully blended to create some
of the finest cuvées available.

Grape varieties
Champagne's classic trio of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier are generally accepted as the
grapes best-suited for a classic brut style of Sparkling wine. The only real resistance to this
concept is in Spain where the traditional varieties are Parellada, Macabéo and Xarel.lo while
Moscato or Muscat is widely regarded as the finest variety for intensely sweet sparkling wines
such as Asti. Australia has made Shiraz the first choice for sparkling red wines, although
Cabernet, Merlot and other varieties are used. Riesling is traditional for classic Sekt and readers
of this guide will know that this is not necessarily an oxymoron. The list is endless, although
most of it is full of duds, such as Prosecco, an Italian grape that makes Parellada characterful by
comparison.

Colour
Pure Chardonnay blanc de blancs (white wine made from white grapes) make good brut-style
sparkling wines, and the best come from the Côte des Blancs in Champagne. In the New World,
blanc de noirs (white wine made from black grapes) can be various shades, but in Champagne
the skill is to produce as clear a wine as possible from Pinot Noir or Meunier, and the most
famous is Bollinger's Vieilles Vignes Françaises. Champagne rosé can be made by blending
white wine with a little red. Sparkling red wines are also available, such as Australian Sparkling
Shiraz mentioned above.

Crémant
The crémant style is noted for its soft, creamy mousse. As a term it originated in Champagne, but
since the introduction of Crémant AOCs (Alsace, Bordeaux, Bourgogne, Die, Gaillac, Jura,
Limoux, Loire and Luxembourg) it has been banned in all other EU appellations, including its
region of origin! Few producers outside France have a reputation for a true crémant style.
Normal fizz has a pressure of 5-6 atmospheres, while crémant has 3.6, but to be a true crémant,
the mousse must unfold slowly, leaving a creamy cordon in the glass. Mumm de Cramant (sic)
used to be known as Crémant de Cramant and was the best known crémant in Champagne.
Franciacorta uses the term satèn (satin).

Prestige or deluxe cuvées
These are cuvées that producers feel best epitomize their house style. The greatest known
examples include Dom Pérignon (made by Moët & Chandon), Cristal (by Louis Roederer) and
Belle Epoque (by Perrier-Jouët). The entire range of Krug is sold at prestige or deluxe quality
prices, which is why it is unfair to compare Krug Grande Cuvée with the brut non-vintage of
most other houses. Such wines are produced in tiny quantities, and it is their rarity value that
determines the high price. The strictest selection of base wines is the most significant defining
factor in any prestige cuvée.


This Year’s (and a bit!) Tastings
Performance tables and an alphabetical listing of recommended producers, with notes on over
1,000 individual Champagnes and sparkling wines.

How the wines are tasted and judged
Almost all the wines in this guide are recommended by me; less than half of one per cent of the
wines carry a <?> sign, indicating that they are in an unusual developmental stage and cannot be
fully judged yet, but there is evidence to suggest they are likely to be good when ready. Most
wines were tasted blind (with labels covered) at my own professionally equipped facility, where

producers submit samples. Others were tasted at special tastings organised for the purpose of this
guide by various trade bodies.
In addition to regular trips to Champagne I travel to different sparkling wine regions each
year to carry out in-depth tastings in situ. Champagnes have to score 80 or above to qualify for
this guide; other sparkling wines have to 70 or above.

The tasting process
All wines are chilled and tasted against others of a similar style and category (e.g., blanc de
blancs, rosé, same vintage etc). It is more crucial to taste sparkling wines chilled than it is for
any other style of wine. This is because temperature affects the release of carbonic gas, which
affects the tactile impression of the mousse and the balance of the wine. Most wines are tasted in
my own facility because I do not wish to be influenced by other people's comments. This also
allows me to devote as much time as I like to each wine, to search out finesse, rather than size
(which is all too obvious and thus the bane of blind tastings). I compare and contrast as many
different permutations within a category as possible because the positioning of a wine in a line
up can dramatically influence its perception. Obviously I open the back-up for any faulty wine,
but so many faults are not easily discernible. Subliminal cork or TCA taint, for example, can
wipe the fruit out of a wine without giving any clue that there is a fault. Only by comparing it
with exactly the same wine without such a fault can the problem be recognised. I have therefore
devised a system whereby a second chilled sample can be on the table within four minutes. This
encourages me to open a second bottle even if I have the slightest doubt. Last, but by no means
least, some wines that do not shine in the cold, analytical setting of a blind tasting can hint at
their usefulness at the table, so they are lugged home where supper is swamped in a sea of
covered-up bottles and a different insight gleaned.
In addition to all the normal negative attributes, sparkling wines are marked down if they
posses amylic aromas (peardrops, banana, bubblegum) or if they are dominated by heavy-handed
malolactic (buttery, caramel, butterscotch) or new oak because all these characteristics detract
from the finesse and vitality of this particular style.

How the wines are described

It is harder to describe a wine with a few words than it is to use many, and a quick flick through
this and all previous edition of the guide will indicate how dismally I have failed in this respect.
When describing the actual wine I try to be specific because it is easier for readers to distinguish
between two wines if the fruit in one is, say, strawberries, while the other is, maybe, pineapple.
If, however, I describe one as having aromas of strawberries, blackberries, cherries, bitter
chocolate, coffee and toast, while another is raspberries, redcurrants, damsons, white chocolate,
wholemeal biscuit and toast, it is difficult to imagine what either wine tastes like, let alone what
makes one different from the other. Should a wine have any of these characteristics, I will list
them, but if they're not there, I wont invent them. Many cuvées simply smell and taste like a very
fine Champagne without having the slightest hint of any specific fruit, flower, nut, herb or spice.
In truth few wines reveal more than one or two specific aromas or flavours.
As far as colour and mousse are concerned, an absence of
comment can be taken to mean that they are at least satisfactory. There is little point
distinguishing between various hues of straw colour and if the mousse is of normal strength with
smallish bubbles, what point is there in repeating this? Only extremes are worthy of note.
I tend to focus on balance and finesse because although these two inseparable
characteristics are notoriously difficult to define, they nevertheless represent why one wine
might be preferred to another. I also hark on about the level of acidity and whether it is ripe
because this is essential to quality in a sparkling wine. I divide sparkling wine into basic styles,
be they light-bodied or full, fruit-driven or complex, striving for elegance or character. And
when it is obvious to me, I explain how a wine will develop.

The Guide's 100-point Scoring System
When tasting for this guide, I try to maintain the same yardstick, whatever the origin or style of
the wine, but I taste by category and to be absolutely honest I sometimes worry whether an 85-
point rated California fizz is indeed the equivalent of, say, an 85-point rated Champagne tasted
two or three weeks apart. Hopefully it is - or at least, more times than not.
However, what confuses the concept of the universal score is that the intrinsic qualities of
each style or region must be respected. Some critics believe this dilutes the universal yardstick,
but if it does then no one could say that a 90-point Bordeaux is the same quality as a 90-point

Burgundy, and that would be sheer poppycock.

What the scores tell us
Thanks to Robert Parker, the American wine critic, the 100-point scale is now globally
recognised. Since Parker utilises only half the points (the lowest scoring wine in his system
receives 50 points), he has been accused of scoring out of 50 rather than 100, and as far as I can
tell from his own words, I think he does not disagree. On the other hand, the lowest score in this
guide is 70, which has prompted some critics to suggest that I mark out of 30, which is
something a I flatly refute! To make it absolutely clear that I do in fact utilise the entire 100-
point scale, I should point out that many wines I taste for this guide score between 0 and 69, but
7
since they fail to achieve recommendation (see How the wines are tasted and judged above)
they are excluded from this book. Just because there are no wines below 70 points in this guide
does not mean that I score out of 30. It is not that I shy away from revealing who makes dross.
My Christie's World Encyclopedia of Champagne & Sparkling Wine (updated edition published
by Absolute Press in July 2003) attempts to provide a comprehensive, more timeless coverage of
the subject, including the bad and the ugly, thus scores as low as 35 can be found. This
publication, however, is not meant to provide comprehensive coverage. Its aim is to reduce
coverage to those wines readers should buy.

70 The point at which any sparkling wine other than Champagne becomes interesting as far as
I'm concerned.
75 Any sparkling wine other than Champagne that receives this score is not just interesting, but
good enough to grace the table of a self-confessed Champagne addict.
80 Because Champagne has such intrinsic advantages over sparkling wines produced in less
favourable terroirs, this is the level at which I start to take interest in an inexpensive BOB or
secondary brand.
85 The sort of quality that Champagne has to be to warrant inclusion in my cellar. If a non-
Champagne sparkling wine scores this high, it is of exceptional quality indeed.
90 A top quality Champagne, probably vintage or prestige cuvée. Any wine outside of

Champagne scoring 90 points or more can be considered as something truly special. A 90-point
wine, Champagne or otherwise, deserves a hefty premium over the competition and will
probably repay 3-5 years additional cellarage to reveal its true potential.
95 The greatest Champagnes. Rare even from the top houses. A very special and memorable
experience. Most could be left forgotten in a cellar for 10 years without any worry whatsoever.
100 Perfection - impossible!

Notes The scores for the same wine can fluctuate from year to year because different
disgorgements produce wines of a different potential. This also applies to the when to drink time-
scales. Furthermore, scores can vary because although I take into account both actual and
potential quality, the emphasis in any annual guide must be on the former rather than the latter.
When unexpected factors come into play, causing a wine to show less well than predicted in an
earlier edition, I give the wine a <?> symbol and try to explain what has happened.

2003 Comparative Performance Tables
Almost all the wines found in the alphabetical listing are grouped here according to their various
categories. This enables readers to zero in on the best quality and value cuvées within a particular
country, region, style or vintage. Full tasting notes and when to drink information can be found
in the alphabetical listing.
The wines are listed in descending order of score and
strictly alphabetical (including first
names and initials) within each score, except for the listing by French Francs, which is by price.
Note Wines not included in the following performance tables include (i) those with a <?>
symbol; (ii) where too few wines qualified for a specific category; and (iii) wines that do not fit
naturally into any grouping.



8

Remember!
85 Points - 'The sort of quality Champagne has to be to warrant inclusion in my cellar' - Tom
Stevenson
Don't restrict your choice to 90 point wines - I don't!

Champagne
Champagne produces a greater volume of higher quality sparkling wine than any other wine
region, thus it holds pole position in this part of the guide and is followed by other sparkling
wine areas of France. The rest of the world's fizz is listed by country in strict alphabetical order.

Champagne Brut Non-vintage & Multi-vintage
This section encompass every recommended Champagne that does not carry a single vintage,
whether it is absolute entry-level or a deluxe "multi-vintage" cuvée. The latter, of course, should
score significantly higher and indeed they do, as Grand Siècle and Krug Grand Cuvée admirably
demonstrate, but just look at the outstanding performance of Charles Heidsieck's Mis en Cave. A
Brut style must have between 0 and 15 grams per litre of residual sugar (added as the dosage
after disgorgement), although most Champagnes at the lower-end of this scale will be sold as an
Extra-Brut or a Brut Nature. The sugar should not be noticeable, even at the top end of the
range, if properly balanced by ripe acidity. A true Brut should thus taste dry, but this does not
mean austere, as young cuvées should possess fruit, while mature ones will have a mellowed
richness.
<96>Grand Siècle NV La Cuvée par Laurent-Perrier, Brut
<95>Krug NV Grande Cuvée Brut
<91>Charles Heidsieck NV Brut Réserve, Mis en Cave en 1997
<91>Charles Heidsieck NV Brut Réserve, Mis en Cave en 1996
<91>Louis Roederer NV Brut Premier (magnum)
<90>Bollinger NV Special Cuvée, Brut (magnum)
<90>Jacquart NV Brut de Nominée
<90>Jacquesson NV Brut Cuvée No. 728
<90>Louis Roederer NV Brut Premier

<90>Serge Mathieu NV Cuvée Prestige Brut
<89>Deutz NV Brut Classic
<89>Gosset NV Grande Réserve Brut
<89>Joseph Perrier NV Cuvée Royale Brut
<89>Roger Brun NV Brut Réserve
<88>Alfred Gratien NV Brut
<88>Alfred Gratien NV Cuvée Paradis
<88>Bollinger NV Special Cuvée, Brut
<88>Drappier NV Carte d'Or Brut
<88>Lanson NV Black Label
<88>Moutard NV Cuvée aux 6 Cépages
<88>Princesse des Thunes NV Ambonnay Grand Cru
<88>R de Ruinart NV Brut
<88>Raoul Collet NV Carte Rouge Brut Millésime (magnum)
9
<88>Serge Mathieu NV Tête de Cuvée Select, Brut
<88>Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin NV Brut
<87>Boizel NV Brut Réserve
<87>Bruno Paillard NV Brut Première Cuvée
<87>Demoiselle NV Tête de Cuvée Brut, Vranken
<87>Duval-Leroy NV Fleur de Champagne, Brut Premier Cru
<87>G.H. Mumm NV Grand Cru Brut
<87>Jacquart NV Brut Mosaïque
<87>Moutard NV Brut Grande Cuvée
<87>Pol Roger NV Brut White Foil
<87>Tsarine NV Tête de Cuvée Brut, Chanoine
<86>Billecart-Salmon NV Brut Réserve
<86>Clos du Moulin NV Brut Premier Cru, Cattier
<86>Delamotte NV Brut
<86>Delbeck NV Brut Héritage

<86>Fleury NV Fleur de l'Europe Brut
<86>Georges Gardet NV Brut Spécial
<86>Henri Mandois NV Cuvée de Réserve, Brut
<86>Oudinot NV Clos Saint-Rémy Brut
<86>P. Brugnon NV Cuvée Elégance, Brut Premier Cru
<86>Pannier NV Brut Sélection
<86>René Geoffroy NV Cuvée Prestige, Brut Premier Cru
<86>Tarlant NV Pinot Meunier
<86>Vilmart NV Grande Réserve, Brut Premier Cru
<85>A. Margaine NV Brut Premier Cru
<85>Alexandre Bonnet NV Cuvée Prestige
<85>Charles de Cazanove NV Cuvée Cazanova Brut
<85>Chartogne-Taillet NV Cuvée Sainte-Anne Brut
<85>Château de Boursault NV Brut Tradition
<85>Duval-Leroy NV Fleur de Champagne Brut Non Vintage
<85>E. Barnaut NV Grande Réserve, Brut Grand Cru
<85>Forget-Chemin NV Carte Blanche Brut
<85>Gatinois NV Grand Cru
<85>
Guy Cadel NV Grande Réserve Brut
<85>H. Blin NV Brut Tradition
<85>Heidsieck Monopole NV Premiers Crus Brut
<85>Henri Goutorbe NV Cuvée Tradition, Brut
<85>Jacquart NV Brut Tradition
<85>Jean Moutardier NV Sélection Brut
<85>Laurent-Perrier NV Brut L.P.
<85>Mailly Grand Cru NV Brut Réserve, Grand Cru
<85>Mercier NV Brut
<85>Michel Arnould NV Réserve Brut Grand Cru
<85>Moët & Chandon NV Brut Impérial

<85>P. Brugnon NV Brut Premier Cru
<85>Perrier-Jouët NV Grand Brut
10
<85>Philipponnat NV Royale Réserve Brut
<85>Pierre Gimonnet NV Cuis Premier Cru
<85>Piper-Heidsieck NV Brut
<85>Piper-Heidsieck NV Cuvée Spéciale Jean-Paul Gaultier, Brut
<85>Pommery NV Brut Royal
<85>Raoul Collet NV Carte Perle, Brut 1er Cru
<85>Raymond Boulard NV Brut Tradition
<85>René Geoffroy NV Cuvée de Réserve, Brut Premier Cru
<85>Rémy Massin et Fils NV Brut Réserve
<85>Robert Fleury 1902-1998 NV Brut
<85>Tarlant NV Brut Réserve
<85>Tarlant NV Cuvée Louis
<85>Veuve A. Devaux NV Cuvée D Brut
<84>Adam-Garnotel NV Brut Tradition
<84>Arlaux NV Brut
<84>Bricout NV Brut Réserve
<84>Chanoine NV Grande Réserve Brut
<84>Charles Lafitte NV Tête de Cuvée, Brut
<84>Château de Bligny NV Brut Réserve
<84>Château de Boursault NV Brut Tradition
<84>De Venoge NV Brut Sélect, Cordon Bleu
<84>Duval-Leroy NV Brut
<84>Forget-Brimont NV Brut Premier Cru
<84>Gauthier NV Brut
<84>Goutorbe NV Cuvée Prestige, Brut Premier Cru
<84>Guy Cadel NV Carte Blanche Brut
<84>Heidsieck Héritage NV Brut

<84>Henri Abelé NV Brut
<84>J.M. Gobillard NV Tradition
<84>Jean Moutardier NV Carte d'Or
<84>Jean Velut NV Brut
<84>Le Gallais NV Cuvée du Manoir
<84>Oudinot NV Brut
<84>
Roger Pouillon NV Fleur de Mareuil
<84>Vicomte de Castellane NV Croix Rouge Brut Millésime
<83>Alain Thienot NV Brut
<83>Canard-Duchêne NV Brut
<83>Daniel Dumont NV Grande Réserve, Brut Premier Cru
<83>G.H. Mumm NV Cordon Rouge Brut Millésimé
<83>George Goulet NV Brut Grande Cuvée
<83>Heidsieck Monopole NV Blue Top Brut
<83>Jacquesson NV Brut Perfection
<83>Jeanmaire NV Cuvée Brut
<83>R.C. Lemaire NV Sélect Réserve, Brut
<82>Alexandre Bonnet NV Grande Réserve, Brut
<82>Amazone de Palmer NV Brut
11
<82>Ferdinand Bonnet NV Brut Héritage
<82>Guy Charbaut NV Brut
<82>J. de Telmont NV Grande Réserve Brut
<82>J.M. Gobillard NV Grande Réserve
<82>Palmer NV Brut
<82>Pierrel NV Cuvée Arabesque Gold, Brut
<82>Royer NV Cuvée de Réserve
<81>Taittinger NV Brut Réserve

Champagne Nature & Brut Extra (Non-vintage and Vintaged)
As regular readers will know, I am not a great fan of non-dosage Champagnes, this has less to
do with the style than its quality. Such wines do not improve with age because sugar is required
for a Champagne to age gracefully after disgorgement (see Reaction Maillard in the Glossary).
The older a Champagne is before it is disgorged, the less dosage required - because it will have
a more mellowed taste - but no matter how old or great the Champagne is, it will turn coarse
and oxidative without a certain amount of sugar. Enjoy this style by all means, but recognise that
sugar brings finesse and enables further ageing: do not become one of the mindless "anti-sugar"
brigade. The cleverest and best-value wine here is Philipponnat’s new Cuvée 1522.
<91>Bollinger 1990 R.D. Extra Brut
<90>Duval-Leroy 1995 Fleur de Champagne, Extra Brut
<90>Philipponnat NV Cuvée 1522 Extra Brut
<88>Pierre Gimonnet 1995 Cuvée Oenophile Extra-Brut
<86>Delouvin Nowack 1996 Brut Extra Selection
<85>Mailly Grand Cru NV Extra Brut, Grand Cru
<85>Jacquesson 1995 Dizy "Corne Beautray"
<83>A.R. Lenoble NV Réserve Extra Brut
<83>Georges Vesselle 1997 Brut Zero Millésime, Grand Cru
<80>André et Michel Drappier NV Pinot Noir Zero Dosage
<77>E. Barnaut NV Sélection, Extra Brut Grand Cru

Champagne Extra Sec & Sec
Sec (or Dry) is rarely seen these days. It can contain anything between 17 and 33 grams per litre
of residual sugar, thus ranging between barely sweeter than a Brut and as sweet as a Demi-Sec.
Extra-Sec is far more commonly encountered, although only one tasted this year was worthy of
recommendation. This style actually overlaps Brut and the dry end of Sec, with between 12 and
20 grams per litre of sugar. These Champagnes can be very useful at the table where savoury
dishes contain a certain sweetness or fruitiness.
<87>Louis Roederer NV Rich Sec
<85>E. Barnaut NV Cuvée Douceur, Sec Grand Cru

<80>Moët & Chandon NV White Star, Extra Dry

Champagne Demi-Sec
For many years this sweet style, which must have between 33 and 50 grams of residual sugar,
has been debased by the vast majority of Champagne producers who have pandered to an
unsophisticated sector of French supermarket customers who like to drink sweet. By this I do not
mean that sweetness in Champagne or indeed any wine is debasing or that to enjoy sweetness is
12
a sign of poor taste, but there are vast numbers who can only enjoy sweet drinks and cannot
taste beyond that sweetness, thus Champagne producers have been able to hide their inferior
wines behind a mask of sugar. However, we are gradually seeing a rise in the number of high
quality demi-sec produced.
<88>Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin 1995 Rich Réserve
<87>Piper-Heidsieck NV Demi-Sec
<87>Pol Roger NV Rich Special Demi-Sec
<85>Beaumont des Crayères NV Demi-Sec Grande Réserve
<85>G.H. Mumm NV Demi-Sec
<82>Oudinot NV Medium-Dry

Champagne Blanc de Blancs Non-vintage
Without doubt blanc de blancs are more expressive from a single vintage, but non-vintage cuvées
can offer superb value and, contrary to popular belief, a great many are made.
<90>Boizel NV Chardonnay Brut Blanc de Blancs
<90>Jacques Selosse NV Brut Tradition, Blanc de Blancs
<89>Heidsieck Monopole NV Diamant Blanc, Brut
<88>Abel Lepitre NV Cuvée No. 134, Blanc de Blancs Brut
<87>Joseph Perrier NV Cuvée Royale, Blanc de Blancs Brut
<87>Le Mesnil NV Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru Brut
<83>Henriot NV Blanc de Blancs Brut
<85>Agrapart NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru

<85>Chartogne-Taillet NV Cuvée Sainte-Anne, Blanc de Blancs
<85>Jean Milan NV Brut Spécial, Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs
<85>Moët & Chandon, Les Vignes de Saran NV Chouilly Grand Cru
<85>Vicomte de Castellane NV Chardonnay Brut
<84>Larmandier-Bernier NV Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru
<84>G.H. Mumm, Mumm de Cramant NV Brut Chardonnay, Grand Cru
<84>Paul Goerg NV Blanc de Blancs, Brut Premier Cru
<83>Comte Audoin de Dampierre NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru
<83>Pierrel NV Brut Premier Cru
<82>George Goulet NV Blanc de Blancs Grande Cuvée

Champagne Blanc de Noirs Vintage & Non-vintage
The idea that a blanc de noirs is an especially big, rich and meaty Champagne came about
because Bollinger set the yardstick with its Vielles Vignes Françaises. That extraordinary wine
is, however, made from grapes that are super-ripe and super-concentrated because they are
grown on ungrafted vines, which bear less fruit per plant, consequently ripen one week before
surrounding vineyards, but they are not allowed to be picked any earlier. The Beast of Bollinger
is thus an anomaly and usually blasts all opposition for six, but the 1996 is the most
extraordinary Vieilles Vignes Françaises yet. It is also only the second time I have awarded a
Champagne 99 points (the as unreleased Krug 1990 being the other). A bit unfair on the rest,
perhaps, that it should be the only vintage in this line-up of blanc de noirs, but it would be even
more unfair if I denied Bollinger 1996 Vielles Vignes Françaises its moment of glory just
because there were no other vintaged blanc de noirs Champagnes with which to create a
performance table. Besides, the non-vintage cuvées below have nothing to apologise for,
13
particularly as they qualified for recommendation whereas a number of vintaged blanc de noirs
did not.
Some blanc de noirs can have such finesse that it is hard to imagine that they do not contain
a substantial amount of Chardonnay. Serge Mathieu Blanc de Noirs from the Aube comes to
mind. There is also the notion that these wines must be pure Pinot Noir, but many blanc de noirs

are in fact blends of both Pinot Noir and Meunier. The following recommendations are all
classic blanc de blancs in that they contain only black grapes and the aim has been to produce
as colourless a wine as possible from these black-skinned grapes. They are not New World blanc
de noirs, which often contain a small percentage of white grapes and vary in colour from
copper-tinged to full rosé.
<99>Bollinger 1996 Vieilles Vignes Françaises Brut
<90>Serge Mathieu NV Cuvée Tradition, Blanc de Noirs Brut
<90>Moët & Chandon, Les Sarments d'Aÿ NV Aÿ Grand Cru Brut
<87>Brice NV Bouzy Grand Cru Brut
<86>G. Fluteau NV Brut Carte Blanche
<86>G. Fluteau NV Cuvée Réservée Brut
<85>Charles de Cazanove NV Brut Rosé
<85>Moët & Chandon, Les Champs de Romont NV Sillery Grand Cru
<85>Michel Arnould NV Brut Grand Cru
<84>Mailly Grand Cru NV Blanc de Noirs, Grand Cru
<84>Oudinot NV Cuvée Blanc de Noirs Brut
<83>Paul Déthune NV Blanc de Noirs, Grand Cru Brut
<82>Alexandre Bonnet NV Blanc de Noirs, Brut
<80>André et Michel Drappier NV Pinot Noir Zero Dosage

Champagne Rosé Brut Non-vintage
Almost every producer in Champagne has a non-vintage rosé in its range. The quality used to be
extremely variable, but more producers are taking this style seriously.
<88>Serge Mathieu NV Rosé Brut
<88>Gosset NV Grande Rosé Brut
<87>Billecart-Salmon NV Brut Rosé
<87>Duval-Leroy NV "Paris" Brut
<87>Jacquesson NV Brut Perfection Rosé
<87>Krug Rosé NV Brut
<87>Pierre Jamain NV Brut Rosé

<87>Pommery NV Brut Rosé
<87>Ruinart NV Brut Rosé
<86>Besserat de Bellefon NV Cuvée des Moines Rosé
<86>Bruno Paillard NV Rosé Brut Première Cuvée
<86>Demoiselle NV Rosé, Brut Grande Cuvée
<86>G.H. Mumm NV Brut Rosé
<86>Michel Arnould NV Rosé Brut Grand Cru

<86>Perrier-Jouët NV Blason Rosé
<85>Alexandre Bonnet NV Perle Rosée, Brut
<85>Baron Albert NV Brut Rosé
<85>Beaumont des Crayères NV Grand Rosé Brut
14
<85>Boizel NV Rosé Brut
<85>P. Brugnon NV Brut Rosé Premier Cru
<85>Château de Boursault NV Rosé Brut
<85>Doquet-Jeanmaire NV Rosé, Brut Premier Cru
<85>Duval-Leroy NV Fleur de Champagne, Rosé de Saignée Brut
<85>E. Barnaut NV Rosé Authentique, Brut Grand Cru
<85>Forget-Brimont NV Brut Rosé, Premier Cru
<85>H. Blin NV Brut Rosé
<85>Henri Goutorbe NV Brut Rosé
<85>Henri Mandois NV Brut Rosé, Premier Cru
<85>Jacquart NV Brut Mosaïque Rosé
<85>Mignon & Pierrel NV Cuvée Florale Brut Rosé, Premier Cru
<85>Moët & Chandon NV Brut Impérial Rosé
<85>Paul Déthune NV Brut Rosé, Grand Cru
<85>Raymond Boulard NV Cuvée Rosé Brut
<85>Tsarine NV Rosé Brut, Chanoine
<84>J. Dumangin Fils NV Rosé Brut, Premier Cru

<84>Forget-Chemin NV Brut Rosé, Premier Cru
<84>Michel Loriot NV Rosé Brut
<84>A.R. Lenoble NV Brut Rosé
<84>Georges Vesselle NV Brut Rosé, Bouzy Grand Cru
<83>Abel Lepitre NV Brut Rosé
<83>Charles Lafitte NV Grande Cuvée Rosé, Brut
<83>Mercier NV Brut Rosé
<83>R.C. Lemaire NV Brut Rosé
<83>Raoul Collet NV Brut Rosé
<82>Le Gallais NV Cuvée du Manoir
<82>Paul Clouet NV Brut Rosé
<82>Vicomte de Castellane NV Brut Rosé

Champagne Vintage Brut 1999
The 1999s are only just starting to filter onto the French market. In overall terms, the harvest
showed vintage-quality ripeness, but the worst acidity and pH readings for a couple of centuries.
<82>J.M. Gobillard 1999 Cuvée Prestige
<83>Drappier 1999 Millésime Exception

Champagne Vintage Brut 1998
Some 1998s have already arrived on the shelf, particularly in France. In terms of fruit, structure
and acidity they seem to mirror 1993s, whereas the 1997s are closer to the 1992s. In theory 1998
is not quite as good as 1997, but in theory 1993 was not quite as good as 1992, yet after a few
years it became clear that there were significantly more 1993s to recommend than 1992s. This is
often the way with so-called marginal vintages, when the quality in the bottle is more dependent
on selection than harvest conditions. We will just have to wait and see.
<90>Henri Mandois 1998 Millésime Brut Premier Cru
<90>Jacquesson 1998 Le Clos de Jacquesson
<89>Egérie de Pannier 1998 Brut
15

<88>Paul Déthune 1998 Brut Ambonnay Grand Cru
<87>Duval-Leroy 1998 Blanc de Blancs [biody, en futs] Brut
<87>Louise Brison 1998 Millésime Brut
<86>Duval-Leroy 1998 Blanc de Blancs [en Futs] Brut
<85>Pol Roger 1993 Brut Vintage
<84>G. Gruet et Fils 1998 Gilbert Gruet Grand Réserve

Champagne Vintage Brut 1997
Should be better than 1998, but they do not have such immediate appeal and require a bit more
bottle-age to show their true quality. I would have liked to see the 1998s released before the
1997s and, indeed, the 1997s before the 1996s.
<88>Abel Lepitre 1997 Brut Millésimé
<87>Gatinois 1997 Grand Cru
<85>Billecart-Salmon 1997 Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart
<85>Vilmart 1997 Grand Cellier d'Or, Brut 1er Cru
<83>Georges Vesselle 1997 Brut Zero Millésime, Grand Cru
<83>J. Dumangin Fils 1997 Carte d'Or, Brut Premier Cru

Champagne Vintage Brut 1996
Without doubt the best potential quality since 1990, the Champagnes from this vintage have an
unprecedented ratio of acidity to sugar, but will this make 1996 the greatest vintage of the 20th
century or will it lead to its downfall? The odds are stacked in favour of greatness, but the base
wines were so marked that they threatened to have too much character prior to the second
fermentation, and that is the sort of problem that we expect in the New World, not Champagne.
Furthermore, the
huge amount of malic acid in such ripe grapes (see 1990 for an analytical comparison between
that year and 1996) was something that no Champagne-maker had ever experienced. With such
distinctive base wines, there is a danger that some 1996s will not have the finesse expected of a
great vintage, and with the uniquely high volume of malic acid to contend with, we could even
see some horrendous malolactic gaffs. However, the best 1996s should be sensational and, if

never moved from their cellar of origin, some could still be sparkling in the early 22nd century!
<99>Bollinger 1996 Vieilles Vignes Françaises Brut
<98>Vilmart 1996 Coeur de Cuvée, Brut Premier Cru
<97>Bollinger 1996 Grande Année, Brut
<97>Pol Roger 1996 Brut Vintage
<94>Drappier 1996 Grande Sendrée
<94>Lanson 1996 Gold Label Brut
<92>Gosset 1996 Grand Millésime Brut
<91>Perrier-Jouët 1996 Grand Brut Millésime
<91>Vilmart 1996 Cuvée Création, Brut Premier Cru
<90>Boizel 1996 Grand Vintage, Brut Millésime
<90>Ch. de l'Auche 1996 Nectar de St Rémi, Brut
<90>Fleury 1996 Brut
<90>Guy Cadel 1996 Brut
<90>Henri Mandois 1996 Cuvée Victor Mandois, Brut
<90>Jacquart 1996 Brut Mosaïque Millésimé
16
<90>Louis Roederer 1996 Brut Vintage
<90>Mailly Grand Cru 1996 La Terre Brut
<90>Mailly Grand Cru 1996 Les Echansons Brut
<90>Mailly Grand Cru 1996 L’Intemporelle Brut
<90>Pannier 1996 Brut
<90>Paul Déthune 1996 Brut Ambonnay Grand Cru, Trilogy Cuvée
<90>Pierre Gimonnet 1996 Vieilles Vignes de Chardonnay (magnum)
<90>Taittinger 1996 Brut Millésime
<90>Veuve A. Devaux 1996 Cuvée Millésimée, Brut
<89>Egérie de Pannier 1996 Brut
<89>G.H. Mumm 1996 Cordon Rouge Brut Millésimé
<89>Serge Mathieu 1996 Brut
<88>Guy Charbaut 1996 Brut

<88>H. Blin 1996 Brut
<88>Henriot 1996 Brut Millésime
<88>Louis Brison 1996 Cuvée Tendresse, Brut
<88>Mailly Grand Cru 1996 Brut
<88>Veuve A. Devaux 1996 D de Devaux
<89>Delamotte 1996 Blanc de Blancs Brut
<87>Louis Brison 1996 Cuvée Germain Brulez Brut (magnum)
<87>Moët & Chandon 1996 Millésime Blanc, Brut
<87>Jean Moutardier 1996 Brut Millésime
<87>Tribaut 1996 Brut
<86>Besserat de Bellefon 1996 Brut
<86>Cuvée Charles Gardet 1996 Brut
<86>Delouvin Nowack 1996 Brut Extra Selection
<86>Ferdinand Bonnet 1996 Brut
<86>René Geoffroy 1996 Cuvée Sélectionnée
<85>Comte A. de Dampierre 1996 Brut Grand Cru
<85>Cuvée Jean de la Fontaine 1996 Brut Millésime
<85>Duval-Leroy 1996 Brut Vintage
<85>Royer 1996 Brut


Champagne Vintage Brut 1995
This vintage is blossoming beautifully. As expected the 1995s have more class than either the
1993s or 1992s, but like the 1985s they just keep getting better. In fact, the best 1995s are
beginning to remind me of the best 1961s.
<98>Salon 1995 Blanc de Blancs Brut
<97>Bollinger 1995 Grande Année, Brut
<95>Gosset Celebris 1995 Brut
<95>Cuvée Dom Pérignon 1995 Brut, Moët & Chandon
<95>Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin 1995 La Grande Dame, Brut

<92>Perrier-Jouët 1995 Cuvée Belle Epoque Brut
<92>Drappier 1995 Grande Sendrée, Brut
<91>Pol Roger 1995 Brut Vintage
<91>Pierre Gimonnet 1995 Millésime de Collection (magnum)
17
<91>Bruno Paillard 1995 Brut Millésime
<90>R de Ruinart 1995 Brut
<90>Pommery 1995 Cuvée Louise, Brut
<90>Louis Roederer 1995 Cristal Brut
<90>Lanson Gold Label 1995 Brut
<90>G.H. Mumm 1995 Cordon Rouge Brut Millésimé
<90>Femme de Champagne 1995 Brut Millésime
<90>Duval-Leroy 1995 Fleur de Champagne, Extra Brut
<90>Cuvée William Deutz 1995 Brut
<90>Charles de Cazanove 1995 Brut Azur, Premier Cru
<90>Henriot 1995 Brut Millésime
<90>Jacquesson 1995 Grand Vin Signature, Brut
<89>Nicolas Feuillatte 1995 Palmes d'Or Brut
<89>Taittinger 1995 Brut Millésimé
<89>Tsarine 1995 Brut, Chanoine
<89>Joseph Perrier 1995 Cuvée Royale Brut
<89>Heidsieck Monopole 1995 Diamant Bleu, Brut
<89>Nicolas Feuillatte 1995 Brut Premier Cru
<89>Deutz 1995 Brut
<89>De Saint Gall 1995 Brut
<89>Binet 1995 Brut
<88>Raoul Collet 1995 Carte d'Or Brut (magnum)
<88>Pierre Vaudon 1995 Premier Cru Brut
<88>Nicolas Feuillatte 1995 Cuvée Spécial
<88>Fabrice Payelle 1995 Cuvée du Pomponne, Brut Grand Cru

<88>De Venoge 1995 Brut Millésimé
<88>Comte Audoin de Dampierre 1995 Grand Cru
<87>Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin 1995 Brut Vintage Réserve
<87>Tarlant 1995 Brut
<87>Nicolas Feuillatte 1995 Brut Millésimé
<87>Maurice Vesselle 1995 Brut Millésime, Bouzy Grand Cru
<87>Mailly Grand Cru 1995 Cuvée Les Echansons, Brut
<86>Piper-Heidsieck 1995 Brut

<86>Nicolas Feuillatte 1995 Verzy
<86>H. Billiot Fils 1995 Brut Grand Cru
<86>Arlaux 1995 Brut
<85>Vicomte de Castellane 1995 Croix Rouge Brut Millésime
<85>Raoul Collet 1995 Carte d'Or Brut
<85>Jacquesson 1995 Dizy "Corne Beautray"
<85>Pommery 1995 Brut Grand Cru
<85>Mailly Grand Cru 1995 Brut Millésime, Grand Cru
<85>Charles Ellner 1995 Millésime Brut
<85>A.R. Lenoble 1995 Gentilhomme, Brut Grand Cru
<85>Alain Thienot 1995 Grande Cuvée, Brut
<85>Alain Thienot 1995 Brut Millésimé
<84>Vollereaux 1995 Cuvée Marguerite, Brut
18
<84>J. Dumangin Fils 1995 Brut Millésimé, Premier Cru
<84>Demoiselle 1995 Brut
<84>Charles de Cazanove 1995 Stradivarius Brut
<83>Olivier Walsham 1995 Le Bel Amour, Brut Cuvée Spéciale
<83>Jean Moutardier 1995 Millésime

Champagne Vintage Brut 1994

The worst of the lesser vintages between the great 1990s and the excellent 1995s, all four of
which were denied exceptional vintage status through rain at harvest time. Still nothing to
challenge Cristal (92 points), although Roederer's Brut Vintage appears to have had a shot of
steroids compared to its performance in the two previous editions, when it scored a
disappointing 82 points.
<90>Louis Roederer 1994 Brut Vintage
<86>Château de Boursault NV Brut Tradition
<85>La Préférence de Baron Albert 1994 Brut Millésime

Champagne Vintage Brut 1993
On paper the ripeness and acidity levels achieved during this vintage are less impressive than
those of 1992. Dom Ruinart is currently neck-to-neck with Cristal, just one point behind Dom
Pérignon.
<91>Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin 1993 La Grande Dame, Brut
<90>Pol Roger 1993 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill Brut
<90>Henri Giraud 1993 Grand Cru Fût de Chêne Brut
<87>Philipponnat 1993 Réserve Millésimée Brut
<87>Jacquesson 1993 Grand Vin Signature, Brut
<87>Gauthier 1993 Brut
<85>Laurent-Perrier 1993 Brut
<85>De Venoge 1993 Grand Vin des Princes Brut
<84>Ayala 1993 Brut Millésimé
<83>Raoul Collet 1993 Carte d'Or Brut

Champagne Vintage Brut 1992
Theoretically the only vintage quality year between, but not including, 1990 and 1995. However,
although it has provided some excellent Champagnes, there has generally been a greater turn
out of superior 1993s, even if the later releases below have redressed the balance somewhat.
<93>Vilmart 1992 Coeur de Cuvée (magnum)
<91>Perrier-Jouët 1992 Grand Brut

<91>Drappier 1992 Carte d'Or Brut (magnum)
<91>Bollinger 1992 Grande Année, Brut
<90>Duval-Leroy 1992 Fleur de Champagne, Millésimé Brut
<89>Palmer 1992 Brut Millésime
<89>Le Brun de Neuville 1992 Millésime Brut
<88>Jacquart 1992 Brut Mosaïque
<88>De Venoge 1992 Grand Vin des Princes Brut
<87>Pommery 1992 Brut Grand Cru
<87>Jean-Pierre Marniquet 1992 Brut Millésime
19
<87>Jeanmaire 1992 Champagne Elysée, Brut Millésime
<87>Bricout 1992 Brut Réserve
<86>Alfred Gratien 1992 Brut
<79>Nicolas Feuillatte 1992 Brut Premier Cru

Champagne Vintage Brut 1991
Although less houses declared this vintage and the ripeness-acidity levels were the less
impressive than either 1992 or 1993, some producers evidently got it right.
<90>Clos des Goisses 1991 Brut, Philipponnat
<88>Boizel 1991 Joyau de France, Brut

Champagne Vintage Brut 1990
This is not only a true vintage, it is one of the 18 greatest Champagne vintages of the 20th
century. It is hard to believe for those who remember the 1976 Champagnes, but the grapes were
riper in 1990 than they were in that drought year. What makes 1990 special, however, is that its
grapes also possessed surprisingly high the acidity levels, with a much greater proportion of ripe
tartaric to unripe malic than any other vintage on record. Since both 1990 and 1996 have unique
acidity to ripeness ratios, I should explain the difference. There are always exceptions, but as a
rule of thumb, any Champagne harvest that averages a potential alcohol of 10% ABV or more is
probably "vintage quality" and the best total acidity that can reasonably be expected will be

eight-point-something, with a pH just above three. Go up to 11% and the acidity falls to six-
point-something, with the danger of pH levels hitting 3.1. The average ripeness in 1990 was
11.1%, the highest since 1959 (12%), yet the average total acidity was an 8g/l (expressed as
sulphuric), with a pH of 3.04. This was an unprecedented acidity to ripeness ratio. Compare it to
what was perceived at the time as an overripe 1976 harvest, which averaged 10.5% ABV with a
total acidity of 6.2g/l. Okay, that's why 1990 is special. In 1996, at 10.3% ABV, the average
ripeness was closer to 1976, but with an incredible total acidity of 9.9g/l and a pH of 2.97!
Break the acidity down and although there is a very healthy 8.3g/l of tartaric acid (only slightly
less than 1989 at 8.6 and 1990 at 8.9), we can see that the reason for such a high total acidity
and low pH: 9.3g/l of malic acid! In a non-vintage year like 1987 there will only be 8g/l of malic
acid. In a vintage-ripe year like 1996 it is nothing short of phenomenal.
A note of caution: [1] Some UK cellared 1990s have aged rapidly, whereas the same wines
disgorged on the same date and not moved from Champagne are in perfect condition - beware
buying 1990s outside the region.
<95>Billecart-Salmon 1990 Grande Cuvée, Brut
<95>Pol Roger 1990 Brut Vintage
<95>Perrier-Jouët 1990 Cuvée Belle Epoque Brut
<91>Bollinger 1990 R.D. Extra Brut
<90>Boizel 1990 Cuvée Sous Bois, Brut
<90>Comte Audoin de Dampierre 1990 Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru
<90>Duval-Leroy 1990 Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay, Brut
<89>Vilmart 1990 Grand Cellier d'Or, Brut
<88>Charles Heidsieck 1990 Blanc des Millénaires, Brut
<87>Jacquinot 1990 Symphony Brut Grande Réserve
<87>Arlaux 1990 Brut
<87>Doquet-Jeanmaire 1990 Blanc de Blancs, Brut Premier Cru
20
<85>Bruno Paillard 1990 N.P.U. Nec Plus Ultra, Brut

Champagne Vintage Brut 1989

The middle year of the great trio of exceptional successive vintages, 1989 was marked by the
Pinot Noir, which had a physiological disorder, causing coloration problem that was most
noticeable in some of the cheaper, earlier-released Champagnes. The acidity was very low and
pH too high for such a hyped-up vintage (only 1999 has had worse readings in the last 20 years),
consequently some Champagnes were too heavy and oxidative.
<92>Noble Cuvée de Lanson 1989 Brut
<90>Pommery 1989 Louise Brut
<90>Henriot 1989 Cuvée des Enchanteleurs, Brut

Champagne Vintage Brut 1988
Although this vintage comes second to the 1990 out of the trio of three successive Champagne
vintages, the best 1988s will probably last as long as the best 1990s.
<95>Krug 1988 Brut
<88>Henriot 1988 Cuvée des Enchanteleurs, Brut
<85>Pol Roger 1988 Brut Vintage

Champagne Vintage Brut 1987 & older
Only buy older vintages of Champagne that have come direct from the producer's cellars into the
wine-merchant's cellars, and only then if you also know that the wine-merchant’s own cellars
are good. Preferably buy direct from the producer on a visit. Only buy mature Champagne at
auction if the provenance adheres to the above or you have tasted the an example from exactly
the same lot.
<97>Pol Roger 1979 Brut Vintage (Jeroboam)
<96>Krug 1985 Brut
<96>Perrier-Jouët 1979 Cuvée Belle Epoque Brut
<96>Pol Roger 1985 Brut Vintage (Jeroboam)
<94>Perrier-Jouët 1985 Cuvée Belle Epoque Brut
<93>Perrier-Jouët 1959 Grand Brut
<92>Nicolas Feuillatte 1985 Palmes d'Or Brut
<90>Jacquart 1987 Brut

<90>Perrier-Jouët 1971 Cuvée Belle Epoque Brut
<85>Maurice Vesselle 1976 Brut Millésime, Bouzy Grand Cru

Champagne Vintage Blanc de Blanc 1998
The Chardonnay was better than Pinot Noir in 1998, but so far there is little evidence to suggest
it was good enough to excel on its own.
<85>G. Fluteau 1998 Cuvée Prestige, Blanc de Blancs Brut
<85>Philippe Gonet 1998 Blanc de Blancs, Brut Grand Cru
<84>Pierre Gimonnet 1998 Gastronome Brut 1er Cru
<83>Th. Blondel 1998 Blanc de Blancs Brut Premier Cru
<82>Terres de Noël, Brut Sélection 1998 Grand Cru, Milan
<82>Pierre Moncuit, Cuvée Nicole Moncuit 1998 Vieille Vigne
<81>G. Gruet et Fils 1998 Blanc de Blancs, Brut Millésimé
21

Champagne Vintage Blanc de Blanc 1997
Strangely few and far between, with only one wine standing out so far, and that's to die for.
<90>Amour de Deutz 1997 Blanc de Blancs Brut

Champagne Vintage Blanc de Blanc 1996
This is shaping up to being a great blanc de blanc vintage, even though the 1996s blended from
both Chardonnay and Pinot are definitely superior.
<92>Pol Roger 1996 Brut Chardonnay
<87>Deutz 1996 Blanc de Blancs, Brut
<90>R.C. Lemaire 1996 Chardonnay, Millésime Premier Cru Brut
<90>Pannier 1996 Blanc de Blancs
<90>Bonnaire 1996 Cuvée Prestige, Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru
<89>Jacquart 1996 Blanc de Blancs, Brut Mosaïque
<88>Pierre Gimonnet 1996 Premier Cru Chardonnay, Brut
<88>Louis Brison 1996 Cuvée Tendresse, Brut

<87>Pierre Moncuit 1996 Brut Grand Cru, Blanc de Blancs
<87>Pierre Gimonnet 1996 Fleuron Brut 1er Cru
<87>G. Fluteau 1996 Cuvée Prestige, Blanc de Blancs Brut
<87>Duval-Leroy 1996 Blanc de Chardonnay Brut
<86>Louis Roederer 1996 Blanc de Blancs Brut
<85>Michel Gonet 1996 Prestige 2000 Brut Grand Cru
<84>Philippe Gonet 1996 Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru
<84>Nicolas Feuillatte 1996 Blanc de Blancs Brut Premier Cru

Champagne Vintage Blanc de Blanc 1995
Some amazing blanc de blancs are emerging from this vintage.
<95>Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 1995 Blanc de Blancs Brut
<91>Pierre Gimonnet 1995 Millésime de Collection (magnum)
<91>Amour de Deutz 1995 Blanc de Blancs Brut
<90>Pol Roger 1995 Brut Chardonnay
<90>Le Mesnil 1995 Réserve Sélection, Blanc de Blancs Brut
<90>Billecart-Salmon 1995 Blanc de Blancs
<90>Drappier 1995 Cuvée Signature, Blanc de Blancs Brut
<89>G. Fluteau 1995 Cuvée Prestige Brut (magnum)
<89>Guy Charbaut 1995 Memory
<89>
Nicolas Feuillatte 1995 Mesnil
<89>Nicolas Feuillatte 1995 Cramant
<88>Pierre Gimonnet 1995 Fleuron Brut 1er Cru
<88>Pierre Gimonnet 1995 Cuvée Oenophile, Extra-Brut
<88>Jacquesson 1995 Blanc de Blancs, Brut Grand Cru
<88>G. Fluteau 1995 Cuvée Prestige, Blanc de Blancs Brut
<88>Alain Thienot 1995 Cuvée Stanislas, Blanc de Blancs Brut
<87>Nicolas Feuillatte 1995 Chouilly
<87>Palmer 1995 Blanc de Blancs Brut

<86>Terres de Noël, Brut Sélection 1995 Grand Cru, Milan
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<86>Pierre Moncuit, Cuvée Nicole Moncuit 1995 Vieille Vigne
<85>J. de Telmont 1995 Cuvée Grand Couronnement Brut
<85>A.R. Lenoble 1995 Gentilhomme, Brut Grand Cru
<85>Alexandre Bonnet 1995 Blanc de Blancs, Brut
<83>Th. Blondel 1995 Vieux Millésime Chardonnay

Champagne Vintage Blanc de Blanc 1993 & older
Only buy older vintages of Champagne that have come direct from the producer's cellars into the
wine-merchant’s cellars, and only then if you also know that the wine-merchant’s own cellars
are good. Preferably buy direct from the producer on a visit. Only buy mature Champagne at
auction if the provenance adheres to the above or you have tasted the an example from exactly
the same lot.
<97>Krug Clos du Mesnil 1988 Brut Blanc de Blancs
<95>Dom Ruinart 1993 Blanc de Blancs
<93>Le Mesnil 1990 Vigne Sélectionnée Blanc de Blancs Brut
<90>Jacquart 1992 Blanc de Blancs, Cuvée Mosaïque
<90>Boizel 1989 Joyau de Chardonnay, Cuvée des Auctionnaires
<88>Charles Heidsieck 1990 Blanc des Millénaires, Brut
<87>Salon 1990 Blanc de Blancs Brut
<87>Palmer 1985 Blanc de Blancs Brut
<87>Doquet-Jeanmaire 1985 Blanc de Blancs, Brut Premier Cru
<86>Palmer 1985 Blanc de Blancs Brut (magnum)
<83>Doquet-Jeanmaire 1986 Coeur de Terroir, Brut 1er Cru

Champagne Vintage Rosé
Interesting to note that the number of vintaged Champagne rosé submitted dropped by more than
60% over previous years. This happens occasionally, when houses have over-produced during a
rosé revival, only to discover it has waned by the time a vintage Champagne reaches the market,

some five years later. As the French will drink only the freshest Champagne rosé, the producers
switch to selling off these wines as non-vintage, rather than be seen to offer an old vintage,
hoping that customers will not notice that the wine is orange!
<98>Cuvée Dom Pérignon 1992 Rosé Brut, Moët & Chandon
<93>Gosset Celebris 1998 Rosé Brut
<92>Louis Roederer 1995 Cristal Brut Rosé
<91>Pol Roger 1995 Brut Rosé
<90>Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin 1990 La Grande Dame Rosé, Brut
<90>Pommery 1992 Louise Rosé, Brut
<90>Perrier-Jouët 1997 Cuvée Belle Epoque Rosé Brut
<90>Bollinger 1995 Grande Année Rosé, Brut
<89>Grand Siècle Alexandra 1990 Brut Rosé par Laurent-Perrier
<85>Alain Thienot 1996 Brut Rosé
<85>Bollinger 1996 Grande Année Rosé, Brut
<86>Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin 1995 Brut Rosé Réserve

<83>Nicolas Feuillatte 1997 Rosé Brut

Other French
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Other French Brut & Rosé (Non-vintage & vintaged)
All French sparkling wines other than Champagne have been combined, with the Loire taking
top honours, but both Alsace and the Loire equally dominant throughout the performance table.
<89>Bouvet Ladubay 1999 Tresor, Brut Saumur
<82>Baumard NV Carte Corail, Crémant de Loire Brut Rosé
<82>Bestheim 2000 Crémant d'Alsace Brut
<82>Champalou NV Vouvray Brut
<82>Domaine de Brizé NV Saumur Brut
<82>Domaine de la Galinière 1998 Cuvée Clément, Vouvray Brut

<80>Baumard NV Carte Turquoise, Crémant de Loire Brut
<80>Baumard 2000 Brut Millésime, Crémant de Loire
<80>Bestheim NV Crémant d'Alsace Brut
<80>Château de Moncontour 1999 Cuvée Prédilection Vouvray Brut
<80>Clos de l'Epinay NV Tête de Cuvée, Vouvray Brut
<80>Gratien & Meyer NV Cuvée Flamme, Saumur Brut
<80>Jean Becker NV Crémant d'Alsace
<80>Joseph Freudenreich NV Crémant d'Alsace Brut
<80>Koehly NV Blanc de Noirs, Crémant d'Alsace
<80>Wolfberger NV Cuvée de l'An 2000 Brut (Magnum)
<79>C. Greffe NV Tête de Cuvée, Vouvray Brut
<79>CP de Vouvray NV Tête de Cuvée Brut
<79>Gratien & Meyer NV Brut Rosé, Saumur
<79>Jean Geiler NV Blanc de Blancs Brut Prestige
<79>Joseph Gruss NV Crémant d'Alsace Brut
<79>René Muré 1997 Cuvée Prestige Brut
<79>Stoffel NV Crémant d'Alsace Brut
<79>Yves Lambert NV Brut Rosé, Crémant de Loire
<78>CV de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg NV Anne Boecklin Brut
<78>CV de Saumur NV Cuvée de la Chevalerie Brut
<78>Domaine de Brizé NV Brut Rosé, Saumur
<78>Domaine de Nerleux NV Crémant de Loire Brut
<78>Domaine Dutertre 2000 Cuvée Vendanges Brut
<78>Dopff Au Moulin 1999 Cuvée Bartholdi Brut
<78>Engel Fernand NV Tradition Brut

<78>Hartenberger NV Blanc de Blancs Brut
<78>Jean Geiler Médaille d'Or Paris 2000 NV Brut
<78>Jean-Claude Buecher NV Crémant d'Alsace Brut
<78>Meyer Fonné NV Crémant d'Alsace Brut Extra

<78>Monmousseau NV Cuvée JM Brut, Touraine
<77>Ackerman Laurance NV Cuvée Laurance, Saumur Brut
<77>Château de Montguéret NV Crémant de Loire Brut
<77>Domaine du Clos de l'Epinay NV Vouvray Brut
<77>Domaine Dutertre NV Brut Rosé, Crémant de Loire
<77>Dopff & Irion NV Crémant d'Alsace Brut
<77>Dopff Au Moulin NV Cuvée Pierre Dopff Brut
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<77>Eblin Fuchs NV Blanc de Noirs Brut
<77>François Schwach NV Crémant d'Alsace Brut
<77>Jean Geiler NV Crémant d'Alsace Brut
<77>Langlois NV Saumur Brut
<77>Mayerling NV Crémant d'Alsace Brut
<77>Sipp Mack NV Crémant d'Alsace
<77>Wolfberger NV Cuvée Prestige Brut
<76>Camille Braun NV Riesling, Crémant d'Alsace Brut
<76>Chapelle de Cray 1998 Brut Vintage, Montlouis
<76>Château de Putille NV Crémant de Loire Brut
<76>CV de Hunawihr NV Calixte, Crémant d'Alsace Brut
<76>Domaine Claude Bléger NV Crémant d'Alsace Brut
<76>Dopff Au Moulin NV Cuvée Julien Brut
<76>Emile Beyer NV Crémant d'Alsace Brut
<76>Engel Fernand 1999 Chardonnay Brut
<76>Joseph Gruss NV Brut Prestige
<76>Louis Sipp 1999 Crémant d'Alsace Brut
<76>Lucien Albrecht NV Riesling, Crémant d'Alsace Brut
<76>Ruhlmann NV Crémant d'Alsace Brut
<76>Schaeffer-Woerly 1999 Crémant d'Alsace Brut
<76>Schaller NV Blanc de Noir, Crémant d'Alsace Brut
<75>Ackerman Laurance NV Cuvée Laurance Brut

<75>Ackerman Laurance NV Vouvray Brut
<75>Barth René 1999 Crémant d'Alsace Brut, Michel Fonné
<75>Caves Louis de Grenelle NV Crémant de Loire Brut
<75>Château de Montguéret 1998 Tête de Cuvée Brut
<75>CV de Hunawihr NV Calixte Brut Rosé
<75>de Neuville NV Cuvée Prestige Brut
<75>Domaine de la Perruche NV Saumur Brut
<75>Domaine Laffond NV Blanquette de Limoux
<75>Dopff Au Moulin 1998 Chardonnay Brut
<75>Langlois NV Crémant de Loire Brut
<75>Mirault NV Vouvray Brut
<75>
Rieflé NV Crémant d'Alsace Brut
<75>Stempfel NV Crémant d'Alsace Brut
<75>Veuve Amiot 1995 Cuvée Elisabeth, Saumur Brut
<75>Welty NV Brut Rosé, Crémant d'Alsace
<75>Yves Lambert NV Crémant de Loire Brut
<74>Ackerman Laurance NV Cuvée Privée Brut
<74>Bernard Humbrecht NV Cuvée des Amis
<74>Caves Louis de Grenelle NV Louis de Grenelle Brut
<74>Charles Baur NV Crémant d'Alsace Brut
<74>Château de Moncontour NV Crémant de Loire Brut
<74>CV de Saumur 1999 Cuvée de la Chevalerie Brut Rosé
<74>Koehly NV Crémant St-Urbain, Crémant d'Alsace
<74>Odile et Danielle Weber NV Crémant d'Alsace Brut
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