A mans guide to overcoats

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A Man’s Guide to Overcoats
by Antonio on December 11, 2012 · 4 comments
in Dress & Grooming, Style
You probably want to be taken
seriously, get good service at a
restaurant, and make a good first
impression when you meet a
business partner.
Fleece coats from The North Face
may be great for a camping trip and
for outdoor activities, but at your
office job, they make you look like
an amateur, especially if you wear a
suit.
When it is cold outside, the only
acceptable outerwear with a suit is
an overcoat. But there are a lot of
terms thrown around when
discussing these dressier jackets. In
particular – what is the difference
between a topcoat, an overcoat,
and a greatcoat
In a nutshell, the differences all
pertain to weight, style, and
heritage.
An overcoat is a long coat
with sleeves that is worn on
top of something else.

A topcoat is a lightweight overcoat.
A greatcoat is a heavy, bulky overcoat with a military history.
When you buy a coat understanding this distinction, especially when buying online, you can
save quite a bit in shipping fees as well as disappointment.
Characteristics of a Quality Overcoat
A good overcoat should be warm, fit you, and make you look great.
Fabric. If you plan to wear your overcoat for years to come, make sure you buy a coat that is
made of 100% wool and that it weighs at least 4 pounds (for average-sized men). In general,
heavier coats last longer because the fabric is more durable.
Cashmere coats are nice, soft, and warm but they will show wear on the cuffs, the collar, and
moths love them. In addition, they can double the price of a coat for little to no advantage (in
terms of warmth or appearance). With the quality of most wool jacket fabrics these days, they
are often just as soft as all but the finest cashmere. I find a nice compromise is a wool
cashmere blend – my overcoat is about 10% cashmere.
Sleeves. The coat sleeves should completely cover the suit sleeve as well as the shirt cuff,
and even reach a little further down. This way, you should not get cold on your wrists when you
wear gloves with it.
Length. Traditionally, overcoats were rather long-reaching garments, extending almost all the
way to the ankles. These full-length coats are often the coat of choice for seasoned
gentlemen as they can compliment a wide range of figures…to include those of us a bit
rounder in the midsection.
Today, most younger men wear their coats knee-length, which is anywhere between the lower
part of the knee to slightly above. This only compliments men with trim builds and who wear the
coat closer to the body. It’s a convenient option if you find yourself entering and exiting your
automobile multiple times a day.
If you pick a full-length or knee-length coat is a matter of choice, but bear in mind that the full-
length coat may be warmer, and can make you look a little more seasoned than the knee-
length coat.
Fit. When you buy an overcoat, make sure to wear a shirt and a sportscoat or suit jacket
because the coat has to fit on top of it.

Some men like a looser fit while younger men often prefer a trimmer fit. However, if you see X-
wrinkles when buttoning your overcoat, it is definitely too tight.
Style. With regards to style it is once again up to you what you choose. The single-breasted
overcoat with notched lapel is a good all-a-rounder whereas the double-breasted peak lapel
overcoat is a little more formal and wears warmer when it is cold because you have two layers
of fabric over your chest.
Construct ion. High-quality coats have a sewn canvas, whereas less expensive overcoats have
a fused canvas. A sewn canvas is definitely more durable and built to last whereas a poorly
glued interlining can come loose after a few years, ruining the garment. If money is of no
concern to you, go with a fully canvassed overcoat. If not, try to buy fully canvassed suits and
go with a glued overcoat. Unlike with a suit, a glued canvas overcoat is acceptable since it is cut
looser and you wear it less frequently.
Types of Overcoats
In order to be more specific, I want
to introduce you to a number of
classic overcoats which have all
made their mark in men’s clothing
history. As such, these styles are
timeless and will look as good today
as they will 20 years from now.
Chesterfield
First, let’s look at the Chesterfield
coat. Named after the Earl of
Chesterfield, and invented in the
mid-19th century, it was the very
first overcoat of its kind. Over the
years, it has only changed
insignificantly and today a
Chesterfield features:
No waist seams or front

darts (up until then, those
were the standard)
Single-breasted fly front
Short, notched lapel
Velvet collar (optional)
Straight side pockets – it looks like a
flap pocket but it could be a jetted
pocket
No cuffs
Single back vent and an otherwise
plain back
Generally, it is about knee-long and in grey
or charcoal, it makes for a great business
coat. If you go with a velvet collar, you will
definitely own a conversation starter. If you
want to learn more, check out this article on
the Chesterfield coat.
Covert Coat
The Covert coat is very similar to the
Chesterfield, but it was designed for hunting
and the outdoors. Therefore, it had to be
tailored from particularly sturdy material –
the so-called Covert cloth, named after the
covert bushes. It was designed to protect its
wearer from mud, bush encounters,
and of course the weather. For that
reason, it had to be very heavy (29
or 30 ounces a yard), sturdy, and
durable. Today, the fabric is not
quite as heavy anymore, but it is still

a tweed material made to last. It
always comes in a brownish-green
color because it does not show the
dirt very much.
A Covert coat usually has the
following:
Single-breasted with a fly
front
Notched lapels
Made of brown-green
Covert cloth
Short topcoat that is just a
little longer than the jacket
beneath
Signature four (sometimes five) lines of stitching at the cuffs and hem, and optionally
on the flap of the chest pocket
Center vent
Two flap pockets with optional ticket pocket
The collar is constructed either of Covert cloth or velvet
Poacher’s pocket (huge inside pocket that can accommodate a newspaper or an iPad)
The rows of contrast stitching are a hallmark of the Covert coat and lend it a more casual flair.
If you want an overcoat that will be your companion for the next two decades, you should
consider this one.
It should be noted that if you wear your coat primarily for business, this may not be your best
choice.
If you’d like to know more about this garment, I recommend this article about the Covert Coat.
Trench Coat
The Trench coat is a timeless
classic that was invented in the
trenches of WWI and evolved into a

raincoat that is second to none. To
explore the trench coat further,
please read this classic AOM Guide.
Paletot
The name Paletot is French and
was used to describe a fairly short
overcoat that was very fitted, but
otherwise could have many
features. It could be double-
breasted or single-breasted, with
pleats or without, and could have
pockets or not.
Today, a Paletot is a classic
business overcoat with the
following features:
Double-breasted with a 6×2 button arrangement
The top buttons have a wider button stance and are
not buttoned at all
It must have peaked lapels
The coat is semi-fitted to fitted and has a flat back
without a belt
Lef t to right: Ulster coat, Guards coat, and a reversible coat.
Especially in a dark, plain fabric, this coat is very versatile.
Personally, I think a navy blue or charcoal Paletot overcoat can
be worn to the office, with a tuxedo, at funerals, and pretty
much anywhere else. So, if you only have money for a single
overcoat, you’d be hard-pressed not to buy a Paletot. To learn
more about this coat, read this Paletot Overcoat article.
Guards Coat
The Guards Coat derives from the coat English Officers of the

Guard used to wear. It is usually a navy blue overcoat that is
very similar to the Paletot with two basic exceptions:
It has a half belt in the back
It can be
buttoned with
three buttons
or just two
Basically, the Guards
Coat is not very
different than the
Paletot. Its back belt
makes it a little
fancier and more
unique but at the
same time it is very
difficult to find one
off the rack. If you
strive to be classic
and versatile, yet
unique, the Guards
Coat is the way to
go. Otherwise, stick
with the Paletot.
Ulster
The name Ulster is derived from the Irish province of Ulster, whose people popularized a
particular tweed overcoat. A classic Ulster is:
Rather long, roomy, and double-breasted with either 6 or 8 buttons
Great for cold weather because its Ulster collar makes it easy to protect the neck from
the elements
A rough country code with patch pockets, cuffs, and contrast stitching

Made out of heavy, durable Donegal tweed
Belted in the back with an adjustable half-belt
An Ulster is an overcoat for a man who is outside a lot and needs a reliable companion. In my
opinion, it is an ideal travel coat for the colder months of the year because it is warm, durable,
and has big, patch pockets, so nothing can fall out accidentally. In addition, the Donegal tweed
structure hides dirt and stains.
Overall, the Ulster overcoat is for the rugged man who is not all that much into suits but enjoys
rugged, high-quality products.
Polo Coat
The Polo Coat is an American classic
that originates in England. During the
chukkers of a Polo game, the polo
players used to wear a golden-tan
wrap-coat to keep them warm. Later,
the belt was substituted with buttons,
and when they started wearing the
coats after the game as well,
spectators noted it and by the end of
the 1920’s the Polo Coat was one of
the most popular ivy league overcoats.
A few years later, no well-dressed man
could live without one. A Polo Coat has
the following characteristics:
It is made out of golden, tan-
colored camel hair or a 50/50
blend with wool
It has a half-belt or a full belt
It features 6 or 8 buttons
Patch pockets
Peaked lapels or an Ulster

collar with optional cuffs
As you can see, the Polo coat is quite similar to an Ulster overcoat, but it is special because of
its camel hair fabric and the golden-tan color.
With its light color, the Polo Coat definitely stands out from the crowd. If you are looking for an
American legend, this is your overcoat.
How To Buy An Overcoat
Buying Used
eBay and second-hand stores are
good places if you are a bargain
hunter and look for special styles.
Of course, supply is limited and
it requires a lot of work. If you do
not have an overcoat yet, I would
advise against eBay because it is
very difficult to get the fit right.
Every manufacturer’s sizes run
slightly different. Instead, head to
your local thrift stores and check
the racks for overcoats.
Make sure the overcoat does not
have stains, as not all of them will
come out at the dry cleaner. Also,
double-check for moth holes
because fixing them will be either
very expensive or impossible. In
order to make sure you do not have
any surviving moths or their eggs in
your garment, send the overcoat to
the cleaners. This will guarantee
that all moths are dead. And no, putting clothing in the freezer does not work

Buying New
This overcoat was purchased f or $10 – click here to learn
more.
Buying New
New overcoats are definitely an
easy route, though department
stores often lack variety in
overcoat styles and colors.
Chances are, you will find a better
selection at your local haberdasher
and since it is the end of the
season, you will probably be able
to buy a classic overcoat on a
discount.
Cust om Overcoats
Most men never bother to think
about a custom overcoat,
although it probably provides you
with the best fit and you get
exactly what you want. Moreover,
you pay for the quality of the fabric
and the workmanship, not for
marketing and ads.
Considering that a classic overcoat
can last for 20 years or longer and
you can get exactly what you want
with a custom piece, you may want
to think about having one made
just for you.
Conclusion

In summary, a well-fitted classic
overcoat is a smart investment
you’ll get thousands of wears out
of. And every time you put it on,
you’ll instantly step up your style.
Even if you’re just wearing jeans
and t-shirt underneath.
What do you think? What are your
thoughts on this classic piece of
menswear?
___________________
Written by Gentleman Gazette’s Sven Raphael Schneider & Real Men Real Style’s Antonio
Centeno