On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 456
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myosininthemusclefibers,andthusgives
thefleshitscompacttenderness.
Lox,mostfamiliarasadelicatessen
accompanimenttothebagel,isaheavily
brinedformofsalmon.It’susuallysoakedto
removesomesaltbeforebeingslicedforsale.
FermentedFish
ManyculturesfromtheArctictothetropics
haverecruitedmicrobestogrowonfishand
transformtheirtextureandflavor.Butthe
worldcenteroffishfermentationiseastern
Asia,whereithasservedtwoimportant
purposes:topreserveandputtousethelarge
numbersofsmallfishthatinhabitthecoastal
andinlandwaters;andtoprovidea
concentratedsourceofappetite-stimulating
flavors—aboveallthesavorymonosodium
glutamateandotheraminoacids—foradiet
dominatedbyblandrice.
Fishfermentationapparentlyaroseseveral
thousandyearsagointhefreshwatersof
southwestChinaandtheMekongRiver
region.Itthenspreadtothecoastaldeltasand
wasappliedtooceanfish.Twobroadly
differenttechniquesevolved:simplysaltinga
massofsmallfishorfishpartsandallowingit
toferment;andsaltinglargerfishlightly,then
embeddingtheminafermentingmassofrice
orothergrains,vegetables,orfruits.Inthe
simplefermentation,theproportionofsaltis
usuallyenoughbyitselftopreservethefish
fromspoilage,andbacteriaareimportant
mainlyasflavormodifiers.Butinthemixed
fermentation,asmallerdoseofsaltpreserves
thefishforjustafewweekswhiletheplantbasedingredientsfeedthesamemicrobesthat
sourmilkorturngrapejuiceintowine.The
fishisthenpreservedbythemicrobes’acids
oralcohol,andflavoredbythemanybyproductsoftheirgrowth.
Fromthesesimpleprinciples,Asian
peopleshavedevelopeddozensofdistinctive
