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therewastheworldofsmall-scalehomeand
restaurantcooking,traditionalcraftsthathad
neverattractedmuchscientificattention.Nor
didtheyreallyneedany.Cookshadbeen
developingtheirownbodyofpractical
knowledgeforthousandsofyears,andhad
plentyofreliablerecipestoworkwith.
Ihadbeenfascinatedbychemistryand
physicswhenIwasgrowingup,experimented
withelectroplatingandTeslacoilsand
telescopes,andwenttoCaltechplanningto
studyastronomy.Itwasn’tuntilafterI’d
changeddirectionsandmovedontoEnglish
literature—andhadbeguntocook—thatI
firstheardoffoodscience.Atdinnerone
eveningin1976or1977,afriendfromNew
Orleanswonderedaloudwhydriedbeanswere
suchaproblematicfood,whyindulginginred
beansandricehadtocostafewhoursof
sometimesembarrassingdiscomfort.
Interestingquestion!Afewdayslater,
workinginthelibraryandneedingabreak
from19thcenturypoetry,Iremembereditand
theanswerabiologistfriendhaddugup
(indigestiblesugars),thoughtIwouldbrowse
insomefoodbooks,wanderedovertothat
section,andfoundshelfaftershelfofstrange
titles.JournalofFoodScience.Poultry
Science.CerealChemistry.Iflippedthrougha