On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 463
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fewdays,thenrinsed,air-dried,andcoldsmokedforanywherefromfiveto36hours,
withthetemperaturerisingfrom85ºto
100ºF/30ºto40ºCtowardtheendtobring
someglossyoiltothesurface.
Four-WayPreservation:JapaneseKatsuobushi
Themostremarkablepreservedfishis
katsuobushi,acornerstoneofJapanese
cooking,whichdatesfromaround1700andis
mademostoftenfromonefish,theskip-jack
tunaKatsuwonuspelamis.Thefish’s
musculatureiscutawayfromthebodyin
severalpieces,whicharegentlyboiledinsalt
waterforaboutanhour,andtheirskin
removed.Next,theyundergoaroutineof
dailyhot-smokingaboveahardwoodfireuntil
theyhavefullyhardened.Thisstagelasts10
to20days.Thenthepiecesareinoculated
withoneormoreofseveraldifferentmolds
(speciesofAspergillus,Eurotium,
Penicillium),sealedinabox,andallowedto
fermentontheirsurfaceforabouttwoweeks.
Afteradayortwoofsun-drying,themoldis
scrapedoff;thismoldingprocessisrepeated
threeorfourtimes.Attheend,afteratotalof
threetofivemonths,themeathasturnedlight
brownanddense;whenstruck,it’ssaidto
soundlikearesonantpieceofwood.
Whygotoallthistrouble?Becauseit
accumulatesaspectrumofflavormolecules
whosebreadthisapproachedonlyinthefinest
curedmeatsandcheeses.Fromthefish
muscleitselfanditsenzymescomelacticacid
andsavoryaminoacids,peptides,and
nucleotides;fromthesmokingcomepungent
phenoliccompounds;fromtheboiling,
smoking,andsun-dryingcometheroasted,
meatyaromasofnitrogen-andsulfurcontainingcarbonrings;andfromthemold’s
attackonfishfatcomemanyflowery,fruity,
greennotes.
KatsuobushiistotheJapanesetradition
