On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 465
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benefitisthatitleavesthefishwitha
distinctive,almostfresharoma.Acid
conditionscauseheavy-smellingaldehydes,
whichaccentuatethefishinessofTMA,to
reactwithwatermoleculesandbecome
nonvolatile,sothatlighteralcoholsdominate
thearoma.Pickledherringandotherfishcan
besurprisinglydelicate.
AstherecipefromApiciusshows(seebox
below),inhabitantsoftheMediterranean
regionhavebeenmarinatingfishfor
thousandsofyears.Thecommonmodern
term,escabecheandvariantsonit,derives
fromtheArabicsikbaj,whichinthe13th
centurynamedmeatandfishdisheswith
vinegar(aceticacid,p.772)addedtowardthe
endofthepreparation.Otheracidicliquids
werealsoused,includingwineandverjuice,
thejuiceofunripegrapes.
Fishandshellfishcanbemarinatedinacid
eitherraworafteraninitialsaltingor
cooking.InnorthernEurope,forexample,raw
herringareimmersedinmarinade(3parts
fishto2partsofa10%salt,6%aceticacid
mixture)foruptoaweek,atatemperature
around50ºF/10ºC;whileformarinated
Japanesemackerel(shimesaba)thefilletsare
firstdry-saltedforaday,thenimmersedin
vinegarforaday.Inthecaseofprecooked
fish,theinitialheattreatmentkillsbacteria
andfirmstexture,sothesubsequent
marinationisamilderone,andthereisless
developmentoftextureandflavor.
CannedFish
Becausecannedfishkeepindefinitelywithout
refrigerationandinahandypackage,thisis
thepreservedfishthatmostofuseatmost
often.IntheUnitedStates,itisthemost
popularofallfishproducts:weconsumemore
thanabillioncansoftunaeveryyear.Fish
andshellfishwerefirstheatedina
hermeticallysealedcontaineraround1810by
