On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 466
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NicholasAppert,principalinventorofthe
process.FellowFrenchmanJosephColin
startedcanningsardinesalittleoveradecade
later;Americanfishermencannedoystersin
Delawarearound1840andPacificsalmon
around1865,andItalianimmigrantsfounded
thecannedtunaindustryaroundSanDiegoin
1903.Today,salmon,tuna,andsardinesare
themostpopularcannedseafoodsworldwide.
Mostcannedfishareheatedtwice:once
beforethecansaresealed,tocausethe
inevitablecookinglossesandallowthe
moisture(aswellasflavorandhealthfuloils)
tobedrainedaway,sothatthecancontents
won’tbewatery;andonceafterthecansare
sealedtosterilizethecontents,usuallyunder
pressurizedsteamatabout240ºF/115ºC.This
secondtreatmentissufficienttosoftenfish
bones,sofishcannedwithitsbonesisan
excellentsourceofcalcium(freshfish
containsabout5milligramsofcalciumper4
oz/100g;cannedsalmoncontains200to250).
Anumberofadditivesarepermittedincanned
fish,particularlytuna,toimproveflavorand
appearance.Theseincludemonosodium
glutamateandvariousformsofhydrolyzed
protein,whichareproteinsbrokendowninto
savoryaminoacids(includingglutamate).
Premiumcannedfishiscookedonlyonce,in
thecontainer,retainingitsjuices,andneeds
noimprovementbyadditives.
AncientEscabeche
To make fried fish keep longer. The
momentthattheyarefriedandliftedfrom
thepan,pourhotvinegaroverthem.
—Apicius,firstfewcenturiesCE
FishEggs
Ofallfoodsfromthewaters,themost
expensiveandluxuriousarefisheggs.Caviar,
thesaltedroeofthesturgeon,istheanimal
kingdom’struffle:aremarkablefoodthathas
