On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 467
Bạn đang xem bản rút gọn của tài liệu. Xem và tải ngay bản đầy đủ của tài liệu tại đây (114.21 KB, 2 trang )
becomeincreasinglyrareascivilizationhas
encroachedonitswildsource.Happily,
sturgeonfarmsarenowproducinggood
caviar,andavarietyofotherfisheggsare
availableasaffordableandinteresting
alternatives.
Theovariesor“roes”offishaccumulate
vastnumbersofeggsinpreparationfor
spawning:asmanyas20,000inasingle
salmon,andseveralmillioninasturgeon,
carp,orshad.Becausefisheggscontainall
thenutrientsthatonecellwillneedtogrow
intoahatchling,they’reoftenamore
concentratedformofnourishmentthanthe
fishitself,withmorefat(between10and20%
insturgeonandsalmoncaviars)andlarge
quantitiesofsavorybuilding-blockamino
acidsandnucleicacids.Theyoftencontain
attractivepigments,sometimesbrightpinkor
yellowcarotenoids,sometimescamouflaging
brown-blackmelanins.
Thebestroesforbothcookingandsalting
areneitherveryimmaturenorfullyripe:
immatureeggsaresmallandhardandhave
littleflavor;eggsreadyforspawningaresoft,
easilycrushed,andquicktodevelopoffflavors.Roesconsistofseparateeggsbarely
heldtogetherinadiluteproteinsolutionand
enclosedinathin,fragilemembrane.They
canbeeasiertohandleinthekitchenif
they’refirstbrieflypoachedtocoagulatethe
proteinsolutionandgivethemafirmer
consistency.
Malefishaccumulatespermtoreleaseinto
thewaterwhenthefemalesreleasetheireggs.
Thespermmassiscalledwhiteroe,milt,or
laitance,andiscreamyratherthangranular
(thespermcellssuspendedinthe
proteinaceousfluidaremicroscopic).Sea
breamandcodmiltsareprizedinJapan,
wherethey’recookedgentlytoadelicate
custard-likeconsistency.
