The food lab better home cooking through science ( PDFDrive ) 463

skinfromafishfillet,here’showit’sdone:
•Step1:Firstincision.Useasharpchef’s
knifetocutthroughthefleshrightattheveryedge
ofthefillet,exposingtheskin.
• Step 2: Grab on tight. Grab the
exposed skin, using a clean kitchen towel or a
sturdypapertoweltogetagrip.
• Step 3: Slide the knife in. Slide the
knife under the flesh, angling the blade down
toward the skin. Slowly take the skin off by very
gentlymovingtheknifebackandforthasyoupull
the fish back by the skin. The fish should move
morethantheknife.
• Step 4: Finish her off. Keep going,
gentlymovingtheknifebackandforthinasawing
motion as you pull the skin, until it is completely
detached from the fillet. Trim off any small bits
youmayhavemissed.

SAMPLIN’SALMON

T

here was a time not long ago when salmon was

salmon: it was the pink fish that skinny people


orderedatrestaurantsorfancyladiesinFrenchhats
picked on at a high-class buffet.These days, diners
arealittlemoreawareofwhat’soutthere,orareat

least aware that there are options when it comes to
salmon.
Here’saquickguidetowhatyoumightfindinthe
market:
• Kingsalmon,alsoknownaschinook,isthe
largestsalmonspeciesandoneofthemostpopular
at the fish counter. In the wild, these salmon can
grow to over a hundred pounds and live for
several years, making them prized among game
fisherman. Their large, thick fillets make for
relatively easy cooking, though they are not the
most flavorful species. Farm-raised king salmon
tend to be smaller, with a bit more intramuscular
fat,givingthemmorerichness.
• Coho are far smaller than king salmon, with
denser, brighter, more flavorful flesh. With
relatively little intramuscular fat and a very fine
texture, the fish is great for cured preparations
suchasgravlax.
• Sockeye salmon get their name from a
Halkomelem word from the indigenous people of
British Columbia—nothing to do with either socks
or eyes. Known for their deep red flesh and full
flavor, they are quite small, which makes them