On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 490

SaladandaVegetableCompote(The
FormeofCury,ca.1390)
Salat:Takeparsley,sage,garlic,scallions,
onions, leeks, borage, mints, young leeks,
fennel, cress, new rosemary, purslane;
wash them clean; pick them and pluck
themsmallwithyourhands,andmixthem
wellwithrawoil.Layonvinegarandsalt,
andserveitforth.
Compost:Takerootofparsleyandparsnip,
scrape them and wash them clean. Take
turnips and cabbages pared and cut. Take
anearthenpanwithcleanwater,andsetit
on the fire. Cast all these things in. When
theyareboiled,addpearsandparboilthem
well. Take these things out and let them
coolonafaircloth.Putinavesselandadd
salt when it is cold. Take vinegar and
powder and saffron and add. And let all
thesethingsliethereallnightorday.Take
Greek wine and honey clarified together,


Lombardy mustard, and raisins, whole
currants, and grind sweet powder and
whole anise, and fennel seed. Take all
thesethingsandcastthemtogetherinapot
ofearth,andtakesomewhenyouwish,and
serveitforth.
Withthe19thcentury,Englishvegetable
cookingbecameeversimpleruntilitalmost

alwaysmeantboiledandbuttered,aquickand
simplemethodforhomesandrestaurants
alike,whileinFrancetheelaborate
professionalstylereacheditsapogee.The
influentialchefAntoninCarêmedeclaredin
hisArtofFrenchCookinginthe19thCentury
(1835)that“itisintheconfectionofthe
Lentencuisinethatthechef’ssciencemust
shinewithnewluster.”Carême’senlarged
repertoireincludedbroccoli,truffles,
eggplant,sweetpotatoes,andpotatoes,these
lastfixedàl’anglaise,dites,Mache-Potetesse
(“intheEnglishstyle,thatis,mashed”).Of
course,suchlustertendstounderminethe