The food lab better home cooking through science ( PDFDrive ) 714

radiation heat, such as below the rim of a roasting
pan or inside the cavity of a turkey. A convection
oven, on the other hand, forces hot air to circulate
all around the food, constantly supplying it with
plenty of heat energy. It also whisks away surface
moisture, causing skin of crusts to dry out faster.
Thiscansignificantlyincreasetherateofcooking,as
well as make for better, more evenly browned
poultry skin or meat crusts. If your oven has one, I
recommendusingtheconvectionsetting,particularly
forroastingmeatsandpoultry.
The drawback is that most recipes (including the
ones in this book) are not specifically designed for
convectionovens,sosomeadjustmentisnecessaryto
getthemtoworkasadvertised.Thegeneralruleof
thumbisthatifyouareusingarecipedevelopedfor
a conventional oven but cooking in a convection
oven, reduce the oven temperature by around 25
degrees. The exact adjustment will vary depending
on oven brand and model, so some testing may be
required before you learn exactly how your oven
works.

WHATMAKESCHICKENSKIN
CRISPANDGOLDEN?

C

hicken skin is composed mainly of three

elements: water, fat, and protein (mostly collagen).
In order for it to become crisp, a few things must
happen. First, the collagen must convert to gelatin.
Next,thewatermustevaporate.Finally,thefatmust
render and run off. What you’re left with is skin
that’sacrispy,goldenbrownshellofitsformerself.
To enhance the process, there are several things
you can do. First, start with relatively dry chicken.
Look for chickens that are labeled “air-chilled.”
Regular chickens are chilled in water, which adds
extra moisture to the skin and can prevent good
browning. Second, dry the skin well with paper
towels. Better yet, if you have the time, let the
chicken sit on a rack on a baking sheet, uncovered,
intherefrigeratorforaday.Thiswilljump-startthe
drying process, allowing the skin to crisp faster in
the oven. But letting it rest for longer than a day is
notagoodidea.Whyisthat?
Well, collagen breakdown is a time- and
temperature-dependent process that requires the
presence of moisture and a temperature of at least
160°F. For this reason, if you cook your chicken at
too low a temperature or let the skin dry too much
(by, say, allowing it to rest for several days
uncoveredinthefridge),you’llendupdrivingoffthe
moisture required for the collagen to turn into
gelatin.Theskinbecomespaperyorleatheryinstead
ofcrisp.
Aidingtherenderingofthefatcangiveyouabig
boostingoodcrisping.Todothis,youneedtocreate