The food lab better home cooking through science ( PDFDrive ) 487

grapefruitvinaigrette.

GrapefruitVinaigrette
MAKESABOUTẵCUP
1rubyredgrapefruit,rindandpithremoved,cutintoẳinchsuprờmes(seeHowtoCutCitrusSuprờmes,
here),juicereservedseparately
1tablespoonwhole-grainmustard
1teaspoonhoney
1tablespoonfinelymincedfreshparsley,basil,or
tarragon,oramix
ẳcupextra-virginoliveoil
Koshersaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
Combine the grapefruit juice, mustard, honey, and herbs in
a small bowl. Whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in the
olive oil until an emulsion is formed. Season to taste with
salt and pepper. Add the grapefruit suprêmes to the bowl
andstir.


COOLER-COOKED
CHEESEBURGERS
Canaburgerreallybenefitfromsous-videcooking?
You bet it can—at least when it’s a fat pub-style burger.
Many chefs avoid cooking burgers sous-vide because the
vacuum-sealingprocesscancompressmeat,turningburgers
dense and tough. With the water-dipping bag-sealing
method,however,thisisnotaproblem.
Wearestillleftwithonequestion:what’sthebestwayto
seartheburgerpost-cooking?
Deep-fryingisthemethodfavoredbyDaveArnoldatthe
FrenchCulinaryInstitute(healsoaddsclarifiedbuttertothe

bags when cooking burgers, but I’m not such a fan of the
flavor).Itcreatesawickedcrispycrust,withtheadvantage
that the crust forms evenly on all sides of the patty—top,
bottom, and all the way around. It’s also splatterless and
won’t smoke out your apartment the way searing can.The
problemwithitisthatdeep-fryingoiltemperaturemaxesout
at around 400°F—even lower if you consider that the
temperature of the oil immediately surrounding a piece of
frying food is significantly lower than the rest of the pot.
Thisbringsusbacktothesameoldproblemwithtraditional
cookingmethods:Bythetimeadecentcrusthasformed,a
good ⅛ to ¼ inch of meat has overcooked and turned
leatheryaroundtheedges.
Pan-searing does not have that problem.As long as you
useaheavy-bottomedpanandletitpreheatuntilit’sreally,