Research on extraction of color pigments and essential oil from organic materials for lipstick trials (khóa luận tốt nghiệp)

VIETNAM NATIONAL UNIVERSITY OF AGRICULTURE
FACULTY OF BIOTECHNOLOGY
-------  -------

GRADUATIONN THESIS
TITLE:
RESEARCH ON EXTRACTION OF COLOR
PIGMENTS AND ESSENTIAL OIL FROM ORGANIC
MATERIALS FOR LIPSTICK TRIALS

Hanoi, 3/2021


VIETNAM NATIONAL UNIVERSITY OF AGRICULTURE
FACULTY OF BIOTECHNOLOGY
-------  -------

GRADUATIONN THESIS
TITLE:
RESEARCH ON EXTRACTION OF COLOR
PIGMENTS AND ESSENTIAL OIL FROM ORGANIC
MATERIALS FOR LIPSTICK TRIALS

Student

: Ta Hong Ngoc

Faculty

: Biotechnology

Supervisors

: Nguyen Thi Thuy Hanh, PhD.
Nguyen Thi Hien, PhD.

Hanoi, 3/2021


COMMITMENT

I hereby declare that:
This is my study, which was conducted under the guidance of the supervisors;
All data provided are true and accurate;
All published data and information have been duly cited.
Hanoi, January 24th 2021
Student

Ta Hong Ngoc

i


ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Firstly, I am grateful to express my gratitude to the Department of
Biotechnology for granting me support to pursue my thesis, Vietnam National
University of Agriculture, who provided me opportunities to pursue a higher
education, and to prepare myself to better.
I would like to express my deep gratitude to the teacher, PhD. Nguyễn Thị Thúy
Hạnh – Factulty of Biotechnologi in Viet Nam National University of Agriculture,
who guided me through all the time working on this topic and completing this topic.

I owe a debt of gratitude to sincerely thank PhD. Nguyễn Thị Hiển – Lecturer of
Faculty of Enviroment in Viet Nam National University of Agriculture for suggesting,
guiding me very wholeheartedly during my time working on the topic.
This is also an opportunity for me to have the opportunity to thank my family
and friends, who are always there to help, support and encourage me during the
process of training, studying and researching for me to complete this subject.
Thank you very much!
Hanoi, January 24th 2021
Student

Ta Hong Ngoc

ii


TABLE OF CONTENTS
COMMITMENT ............................................................................................................. i
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ........................................................................................... ii
TABLE OF CONTENTS .............................................................................................. iii
LIST OF TABLES ........................................................................................................ vi
LIST OF FIGURES ...................................................................................................... vii
ABSTRACT ................................................................................................................ viii
CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION .................................................................................1
1.1. Purpose .....................................................................................................................2
1.2. Requirement..............................................................................................................2
CHAPTER II. OVERVIEW .........................................................................................3
2.1. Basic information about researching material. .........................................................3
2.1.1. Red dragon fruit: [4] ..............................................................................................3
2.1.1.1. General introduction of red dragon fruit. ...........................................................3
2.1.1.2. Analysis of ingredients .......................................................................................3

2.1.2. Gac fruit: [5] ..........................................................................................................4
2.1.2.1. General introduction of gac fruit. .......................................................................4
2.1.2.2. Analysis of ingredients. ......................................................................................5
2.1.3. Tumeric: [6] ...........................................................................................................6
2.1.3.1. General introduction of tumeric. ........................................................................6
2.1.3.2. Analysis of ingredients. ......................................................................................6
2.1.4. Pomelo flower. [7] .................................................................................................7
2.1.4.1. General introduction of pomelo..........................................................................7
2.1.4.2. Analysis of ingredients. ......................................................................................7
2.1.5. Organic materials compound lipstick base. [8] .....................................................8
2.2. Cosmetic trendy nowaday. .....................................................................................10
2.3. Application of researching materials. .....................................................................12
2.3.1. Lipstick pigment. .................................................................................................12
2.3.2 Lipstick flavoring. ................................................................................................13

iii


CHAPTER III. MATERIALS AND METHODS ....................................................15
3.1. Materials, contents and method. .............................................................................15
3.1.1. Material. ...............................................................................................................15
3.1.2. Time and place. ...................................................................................................15
3.1.3. Equipments. .........................................................................................................15
3.2. Methods. .................................................................................................................16
3.2.1. Experiments of extraction from fruit and flower.................................................16
3.2.1.1. Extracting pink pigment from red dragon fruit. ...............................................16
3.2.1.2. Extracting yellow pigment from tumeric. ........................................................16
3.2.1.3. Extracting red pigment from gac fruit. .............................................................19
3.2.1.4. Extracting essential oil from pomelo flower. ...................................................20
3.2.2. Experiments combining organic material and extractions making lipstick. .......22

3.2.2.1. Making lipstick base by organic material. ........................................................22
3.2.2.2. Finding out the best formulation. .....................................................................23
3.2.2.3. Application of pigment extractions on coloring lipstick. .................................23
3.2.2.4. Application of essential oil extractions on flavouring lipstick. ........................24
CHAPTER IV. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION .......................................................25
4.1. Results. ...................................................................................................................25
4.1.1. Extraction result. ..................................................................................................25
4.1.1.1. Extraction result of pigment from red dragon. .................................................25
4.1.1.2. Extraction result of pigment from tumeric. ......................................................26
4.1.1.3. Extraction result of pigment from gac. .............................................................28
4.1.1.4. Extraction result of pomelo flowers. ................................................................29
4.1.2. Trial combining material and extrction making lipstick results. .........................30
4.1.2.1. Result of using organic materials making lipstick base. ..................................30
4.1.2.2. Result of finding out the best formualation of lipstick base. ...........................31
4.1.2.3. Result of application of pigment extractions on coloring lipstick. ..................32
4.1.2.4. Flavouring lipstick ............................................................................................33
4.2. Discussion ...............................................................................................................33

iv


CHAPTER V. CONCLUSION AND PROPOSAL ..................................................35
5.1. Conclusion ..............................................................................................................35
5.2 Proposal . .................................................................................................................35
REFERENCES ............................................................................................................36

v


LIST OF TABLES

Table 3.1. Experimental arrangement of color extraction from red dragon fruit. .........16
Table 3.2. Experimental arrangement of color extraction from tumeric. ......................17
Table 3.3. Experimental arrangement of color extraction from Gac.............................20
Table 3.4. Experimental arrangement of essential oil extraction from pomelo flower .21
Table 3.5. Experiment evaluate the smooth and hard or soft of lipstick base ...............22
Table 3.6. Experiment evaluate the storage condition of lipstick base .........................23
Table 3.7. A mount of yellow pigment adding into lipstick base. ................................24
Table 3.8. A mount of strong pink pigment adding into lipstick base. .........................24
Table 3.9. A mount of red pigment adding into lipstick base. ......................................24
Table 3.10. A mount of essential oil adding into lipstick base .....................................24
Table 4.1 Extraction result of pigment from red dragon fruit .......................................26
Table 4.2 Extraction result of pigment from tumeric ....................................................27
Table 4.3 Extraction result of pigment from Gac ..........................................................29
Table 4.4 Extraction result of pomelo flower ................................................................30
Table 4.5 Evaluation result of character of lipstick base ..............................................31
Table 4.6 Evaluation result of storage condition of fomualtion 4 and 5 .......................31
Table 4.7 Coloring lipstick results with yellow pigment (cucurminoid) ......................32
Table 4.8 Coloring lipstick results with strong pink pigment (betacyanin) ..................32
Table 4.9 Coloring lipstick results with red pigment (lycopene and beta carotene) .....32
Table 4.10 Flavouring lipstick results with essential oil from pomelo flower ..............33

vi


LIST OF FIGURES
Figure 2.1 Red dragon fruit .............................................................................................4
Figure 2.2. Gac fruit ........................................................................................................5
Figure 2.3. Tumeric .........................................................................................................7
Figure 2.4. Pomelo flower ...............................................................................................7

Figure 2.5. Purified beewax.............................................................................................8
Figure 2.6. Purified soybean wax ....................................................................................9
Figure 2.8. Olive oil .......................................................................................................10
Figure 2.7. Coconut oil ..................................................................................................10
Figure 2.9. Essential oil .................................................................................................14
Figure 3.1. Tumeric powder ..........................................................................................17
Figure 3.2. Tumeric powder stored in box ....................................................................17
Figure 3.3. Sohlet system ..............................................................................................18
Figure 3.4. Pigment obtain (cucurminoid) ....................................................................18
Figure 3.5. Drying gac ...................................................................................................19
Figure 3.6. Dried gac powder ........................................................................................19
Figure 3.7. Pigment obtained from Gac ........................................................................20
Figure 3.8. Distillation system.......................................................................................21
Figure 3.9. Weight beewax and soybean wax ...............................................................22
Figure 3.10. Mixture after adding oil ............................................................................23
Figure 3.11. Adding pigment into mixture of lipstick base...........................................23
Figure 4.1. Concerntrating mixture ...............................................................................25
Figure 4.2. Concerntrated mixture.................................................................................25
Figure 4.3. Pigment obtained from red dragon fruit......................................................26
Figure 4.4. Color pigment obtained from tumeric.........................................................28
Figure 4.5. Color pigment obtained from gac ...............................................................28
Figure 4.6. Essential oil obtained from pomelo flower .................................................30

vii


ABSTRACT
Nowadays, using compounds extracted from organic ingredients in daily life as
well as in functional foods and cosmetics is a lot of interest from scientists as well as
companies. The use of plant-derived compounds shows many advantages over the use

of compounds synthesized by chemical methods, such as: environmentally friendly,
safe for users, low allergy rate, abundant raw materials… However, it also has some
limitations such as: raw materials need to be ensured in terms of biosafety, technology
of extracting is so complex,….
Based on such need and urgency, the thesis “Research on extraction of color
pigments and essential oil from organic materials for lipstick trials” was carried
out, research and use natural ingredients to replace toxic ingredients in lipsticks.
Result of reseaching show that, we can use the extraction from fruit such as red
dragon fruit, tumeric, gac and some oraganic materials to replace the toxic ingredients
in industrial lipstick. Beside the characters of them still are the same industrial
lipstick’s.

viii


CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION
The statistics show that the number of people using cosmetics is extremely large,
not just women. One of the most used products is lipstick. According to one survey, on
average, each woman uses up 20kg of lipstick in her lifetime and they swallow 2kg of
it. [1] The aforementioned toxic ingredients are actually potentially hazardous.
Recently, the US Drug Administration (FDA) studied the composition of 400 other
lipsticks, the results published showed that lead content in the lipsticks tested
increased from 0,026 -7,19ppm, compared with the average of 1.11ppm. The content
of lead in lipstick is increasing a lot. [1]
However, the FDA still announced on its official website that this lead content is
still within safe limits and there is no evidence that it can harm the health of
consumers. FDA has also proven that in addition to lead, in lipstick also contains other
chemical compounds such as triclosan, cadmium, mathacrylate, parabens, mirical oil...
which, according to research, triclosan substances greatly affect the activity of the
heart muscle and can Female infertility potential.

Toxins in lipstick not only cause dermatitis, rashes, and have a great impact on the
heart muscle activity, female reproductive function, even causing infertility in women.
It can not be confirmed immediately that it is harmless to health. Long-term lipstick
users are most likely to suffer from skin diseases such as dermatitis, atopic skin ..., a
group of experts in the US has also demonstrated that in chemical compounds such as
triclosan, cadmium, lead, mathacrylate, parabens ... In lipstick, triclosan has a great
effect on the function of the heart muscle and is capable of causing infertility in
women.
Regular use or exposure to triclosan will be one of the causes of infertility in
women. Women who use lipstick too early cause the body to absorb triclosan for quite
a long time will significantly increase the production of male hormone levels in the
female body, leading to disorders of the menstrual cycle to be a mother ...
Only a quick study, we can also see harmful ingredients and possible consequences
for the health of consumers. Although on the market today there are many lip balms,
unleaded lipsticks, lipsticks containing natural ingredients ... but in general, these

1


lipsticks still need to use artificial colorants, ie still use chemical composition. So how
to meet the increasing beauty needs of women and limit the negative consequences
and harmful effects of using lipstick?
Based on such need and urgency, the research team would like to propose research
and use natural ingredients to make safe lipsticks. We already know a lot of lipsticks
with natural ingredients on the market, but this topic focuses on natural ingredients
that will be the main ingredients, largely replacing unhealthy chemical ingredients. .
Specifically, the lipstick materials will be beeswax, olive oil, vitamins, coconut oil ...
especially the lipstick color will be obtained from natural products.
With the thesis “Research on extraction of color pigments and essential oil from
organic materials for lipstick trials”

1.1. Purpose
Using the extraction from some organic material for making organic lipstick,
replacing toxic pigment, toxic flavour in industrial lipstick by pigment, essential oil
from extractions of fruits.
1.2. Requirement.
 Extraction of color pigments:
+ Extraction of yellow pigment from tumeric.
 Extraction of strong pink pigment from red dragon fruit.
 Extraction of red pigment from gac fruit.
 Extraction of essential oil from pomelo.
 Trial on mixing organic material and extractions for making lipstick.

2


CHAPTER II. LITERATURE REVIEW
2.1. Basic information about researching material.
2.1.1. Red dragon fruit: [4]
2.1.1.1. General introduction of red dragon fruit.
 Scientific name: Hylocereus costaricensis.
 Kingdom: Plantae.
 Order: Caryophyllales.
 Family: Cactaceae.
 Genus: Hylocereus.
 Species: H. costaricensis.
 Distribution: This is a native plant species in Mexico, Central America and
South America. Currently, these species are also grown in countries in
Southeast Asia such as Vietnam, Malaysia, Thailand, Philippines, Indonesia
(especially in the west of Java Island); southern China, Taiwan and some
other regions.

2.1.1.2. Analysis of ingredients
Analysis of ingredients: Red dragon fruit contains lycopene, betacyanin (the main
pigment), a natural antioxidant that can fight cancer, heart disease and lower blood
pressure. This is a very beautiful and healthy fruit. Red flesh dragon fruit has
completely different properties compared to conventional white dragon fruits on the
market today. Outside red dragon fruit has a hard shell, bright dark red color; the
inside is crimson red like lipstick, fancy, it becomes twice as nutritious powder as
white dragon fruit. With the indexes of Vitamin C 12 - 6, Protid 1,30 - 1.08, Vitamin
A, Glucid, Lipit, red dragon fruit brings very high nutritional value. Red flesh dragon
fruit is a new, strange, delicious, nutritious product, a "made in Vietnam" product.
Currently, the United States has issued an export code for red flesh dragon fruit and
with advanced production techniques, red flesh dragon fruit is a product that strictly
complies with food safety, pesticide residue as well as some other requirements. ... has
been trusted by export partners from the US, Japan, and Europe.

3


The characteristic of this dragon fruit is that it looks very small but weighs (~ 1kg /
1 fruit), bright red flesh, crispy, fragrant rice, especially sweet, lots of vitamins and
minerals. Although the price of this fruit is slightly higher than that of white flesh
dragon fruit, it has a particularly delicious taste, and
becomes a high-class dish that is both delicious and
strange to domestic and foreign consumers. According
to a scientific document (scientific journal) recently
published, the active ingredient Lycopene has anticancer and anti-aging effects ... found in red fruits such
as Gac, Carot ... and especially is red flesh dragon fruit.
In addition, according to Mr. Phung Nhat Phong, owner
of the pilot production and processing facility and the
first farmer to pilot red-flesh dragon fruits in Tay

Figure 2.1 Red dragon fruit
(Source: Internet)

Ninh, said: “When eating, the fruit leaves the red color on Natural lips are very
beautiful. The fruit has a very high natural color content, can process food colors,
produce cosmetics such as lipstick, make-up powder, can treat cancer, make wine
good for the health of the elderly and women (the Institute Paster acknowledged). In
addition to normal use, we can squeeze dragon fruit juice to drink very cool. In the
process of pressing the broken seeds, providing more fiber good for digestion, helping
to laxative.
2.1.2. Gac fruit: [5]
2.1.2.1. General introduction of gac fruit.
 Scientific name: Momordica cochinchinensis.
 Kingdom: Plantae.
 Order: Cucurbitales.
 Family: Cucurbitaceae.
 Genus: Momordica.
 Species: M. cochinchinensis.

4


 Distribution: This is a type of perennial melon grown throughout Southeast
Asian countries and Northeastern Australia.
2.1.2.2. Analysis of ingredients.
Gấc is notable for its orange-reddish color resulting from its rich content of betacarotene and lycopene. In 1988 - 1989 within the framework of the national key
research program on nutrients 64D03 by GS. From Paper as the program manager, TS.
Phan Quoc Kinh et al. Have studied products from Gac fruit as nutritional supplements
under the heading 64D0305B. Since 1941, the Medicine Department of Hanoi

University of Pharmacy has initially determined that the red membrane surrounding
Gac seeds contains beta-carotene and a high proportion of herbal oils.
Some
Medical

scientists

from

Hanoi

University

and

Hanoi

University of Pharmacy at that time
have demonstrated that the red-film
oil surrounding Gac seeds has the
same effect as vitamin A and has the
effect of gaining weight for animals
and humans. In 1951, Prof. Nguyen

Figure 2.2. Gac fruit
(Source: Internet)

Van Dan brought this medicinal herb

to study in Germany and determined that in addition to beta-carotene, this part of Gac

fruit also contains lycopene, the most powerful anti-aging substance today. Vietnam's
pharmaceutical industry has produced a number of products containing Gac membrane
oil as tonics, treatment of malnutrition for children and some eye diseases, especially
in the recent 20-30 years, Doctors have used Gac membrane oil to prevent and treat
some cancers in Vietnam.
To prepare the exraction, it is necessary to dry or dry both the seeds and the Gac
membrane (the layer of rice surrounding the seed) until the seed is not held by the
hand anymore, that is already seized, then take a sharp knife to remove the red film.
With this membrane people used to make Gac oil, whose main ingredients are betacarotene, lycopene, alphatocopherol ... Beta-carotene when entering the body will turn

5


into vitamin A. The amount of beta-carotene of Gac is twice as high as carrots. Gac oil
is said to have the function of preventing vitamin deficiency, increasing immunity,
increasing body resistance, anti-oxidant, anti-aging cells, skin care ... Lycopene is
abundant in red fruits such as tomatoes, papaya, carrot, and red gut guava ... Especially
in Gac fruit, lycopene content was concluded 70 times higher than tomatoes. Some
epidemiological studies of the US on the effects of lycopene show that in areas where
people eat a lot of lycopene-containing fruits, the rate of cancer of the digestive tract
(stomach, rectum, colon ...) is lower than those of areas where people eat little or no
food. The death rate from cancer is also reduced by up to 50%. In a 12-year study on a
group of subjects who ate at least twice a week of ketchup, prostate cancer risk
decreased by 35%. This effect is even stronger in people with advanced cancer.
Lycopene is also effective in treating hepatitis, cirrhosis, lowering blood pressure,
dyslipidemia, anti-dry eyes, blurred vision ...
2.1.3. Tumeric: [6]
2.1.3.1. General introduction of tumeric.
 Scientific name: Curcuma longa.
 Kingdom: Plantae.

 Order: Zingiberales.
 Family: Zingiberaceae.
 Genus: Curcuma.
 Species: C. longa.
 Distribution: This is plant native to the Indian subcontinent and Southeast
Asia, that requires temperatures between 20 and 30 °C (68 and 86 °F) and a
considerable amount of annual rainfall to thrive.
2.1.3.2. Analysis of ingredients.
Chemical composition: Tumeric root contains 4 -6% light yellow essential oils,
aromatic (in Fresh Tumeric 2.24%) whose composition includes 25% terpenic carbur,
zingiberen and 65% sesquiterpenic ketone, turmeron, arturmeron. There are also
curcuminoids including curcumin (0.3-1.5%) desmethoxycurcumin. Curcumin is a
reddish purple crystal that is insoluble in water, soluble in acid, in alkali. Taste and

6


effects: Tumeric has a bitter, pungent taste, a dark
aroma, and warmth; has the effect of breaking the
stasis, clearing the system. It is also known that
curcumin has a purulent effect on young skin, secretes
the bile effect, increases the secretion of bile by liver
cells, breaks cholesterol in the blood. Tumeric essential
oil has a fungicidal effect on the skin and curcumin has
an antibacterial effect as well.

Figure 2.3. Tumeric
(Source: Internet)

2.1.4. Pomelo flower. [7]

2.1.4.1. General introduction of pomelo.
 Scientific name: Citrus maxima.
 Kingdom: Plantae.
 Order: Sapindales
 Family: Rutaceae.
 Genus: Citrus.
 Species: C. maxima.
 Distribution: The pomelo is likely to
have originated from the Malesian

Figure 2.4. Pomelo flower
(Source: Internet)

region. Different species of the pomelo, either bred through selection and
propagation or found as natural hybrids, have been cultivated in Southeast
Asia. In Southeast Asia, the pomelo is grown as a crop in Indonesia,
Thailand, Malaysia and Vietnam.
2.1.4.2. Analysis of ingredients.
Pomelo flowers have positive effects on the respiratory system, the scent of pomelo
flowers helps to relieve, relax, reduce stress, help alertness and lucidity. The main
ingredients of pomelo flowers oil are Nerolidol 30.9-40.04%, Farnesol 14.3-23.47%,
linalol 9.23-23.76%.
Pomelo flowers are small white, the stalk is sometimes resinous. Pomelo trees are
usually smaller, greener than pomelo, but the height of pomelo trees is up to 1m higher
than the average pomelo tree. Previously, in many rural areas of Vietnam, pomelo is

7


quite popular, but its superiority is that its fruit is more delicious and its fruit

production is early, so people gradually switch to growing pomelos. In addition, due to
the state of transplant breeding, the primitive characteristics became more difficult to
distinguish and many people only noticed the appearance of pomelo on the market.
Pomelo is a large tree, about 3–4 m in height in adulthood, its bark is pale yellow in
color, sometimes in the cracks of the stem, sometimes sap is present. Trees. Branchlet
with long, pointed spines. The leaves have gill-shaped, ovoid-shaped leaves, 11–12 cm
long, 4.5-5.5 cm wide, with two convex heads, whole, chewy, with large winged
stalks. Flowers belong to double flowers, red, growing in clusters of 6-10 flowers and
very pleasant scent. The fruit is large globose with thick skin and color depends on the
variety.
2.1.5. Organic materials compound lipstick base. [8]
Lipstick base are made from the main ingredients such as beeswax, soybean wax,
olive oil, almond oil, shea butter ... are all safe ingredients. In beeswax Chemical
composition analysis of Beeswax showed that in beeswax contains fatty acids and
esters. At a temperature of 15oC, beeswax has a density of 0.95 - 0.87 g / cm3; melting
point is 62 - 65oC and in solid, white to yellow color.
In addition beeswax contains the caffeine
phenethyl

ester

(CAPE)

caffeine

and

bioflavonoids. There are 20-30 different
types of flavonoids, the most important of
which

are

galangin.

chrysin,
Beeswax

pinocembrin
also

and

contains

monosaccharides, cellulose, amino acids,
Figure 2.5. Purified beewax
(Source: Internet)

vitamins B1, B2, pro-vitamins A, E and D,
nicotinic acid, folic acid, minerals such as

calcium, magnesium, iron, copper, and zinc. The substances identified in beeswax are
exactly the same as those found in food and food additives and are recognized as safe
nutrients. In industry, beeswax is an effective emulsifier or is commonly used as a
flavoring agent in soaps and perfumes.

8

In soybean wax there are % components
such as Protid40, lipid 12-25, glucid 10-15;
melting point is 62 - 65oC and in solid. There
are mineral salts Ca, Fe, Mg, P, K, Na, S;
vitamins A, B1, B2, D, E, F; enamel, wax, resin,
celluloz. In soybeans, there are enough basic
amino acids isoleucin, leucin, lysine, metionine,
Figure 2.6. Purified soybean wax
(Source: Internet)

phenylalanine, tryptophan, valine.

In addition to protid, lipid, and glucide in pea protein, there are also xanthine,
hypoxanthine, carotene, vitamins B1, B2, and PP. In addition, ingredients like coconut
oil or olive oil are safe and added to increase the ability of the lips to moisturize.
Virgin coconut oil contains important minerals and some fat-soluble vitamins such as
calcium, magnesium, beta-carotene, vitamins A, D, E, K, which can be absorbed and
used by the body. The melting poitn of this is 37 oC.
Olive oil has the same melting point with coconut oil (37 oC), beside it can prevent
diseases such as arteriosclerosis, high blood pressure, heart disease, impaired kidney,
brain hemorrhage by promoting blood circulation. In olive oil is rich in fatty acids that
are beneficial for the body. This is also an oil with many vitamins A, D, D, F, K,
carotine, fat-soluble vitamins and antioxidants but not cholesterol, so the ability to
absorb and digest into the body is very big. The common characters between 2 of oil is
they are a kind of food and totally safe for humman health.

9


Figure 2.8. Olive oil

(Source: Internet)

Figure 2.7. Coconut oil
(Source: Internet)

2.2. Cosmetic trendy nowaday.
With the using cosmetic trend nowaday, user often do not care about the
ingredients in lipstick, they just concern about color, using effective, price…They do
not know the are so much toxic chemicals, heavy metals in industrial which can affect
directly to their health. Here are some of the metals used in most lipsticks: [2]
a. Propylparaben
These are ingredients that can irritate the skin, especially for people with a history
of allergies. Some studies also show that propylparaben disrupts the endocrine system.
b. Lead
Many cosmetic brands include lead in lipstick ingredients. Day by day, women
who use lipstick regularly also mean the accumulation of lead in the blood. Lead is
susceptible to brain damage, causing neurological problems, infertility, hormonal
imbalances and, most importantly, cancer.
c. Mineral oil
Found in most color cosmetics, mineral oil has a molecular structure that is too
large to be absorbed through the skin. However, it attaches to the skin's surface,
blocking pores and causing acne.

10


d. Retinyl palmitate
This is a fake form of vitamin A and is considered dangerous for pregnant women.
e. Aluminum and manganese
Lipstick has also been found to contain a certain amount of aluminum and

manganese, which can cause Alzheimer's disease and problems with brain function.
f. Parafin wax:
This specialty is commonly used in lipsticks, foundation and moisturizers.
Although it does not fall into the high-risk group, it easily causes reactions such as
burning, itching, blistering, enlarging pores ...
g. Triclosan:
Triclosan is widely used in the food industry, especially in the lipstick industry.
Entering the body disrupted the flow of calcium ions, which transmit signals from the
brain to the muscle tissue, which the scientists concluded that just 20 minutes of
exposure to citriclosan also reduced 25% of the working heart function.
Ph.D. Sean Palfrey (Medical Director of Lead Poisoning Prevention Program in
Boston, USA) said, as long as the body absorbs lead levels at the lowest level can
harm our IQ (IQ). , especially the behavior and ability of each person to absorb, so the
more women women use lipstick, the more they have to face with the IQ drop and the
problems with diseases like tangles. Behavioral disorder, slow ability to absorb ... .
Beside, the fruity odors are due to the presence of complex mixtures of chemicals,
in which esters play an important role, in addition to other ingredients. Each type of
fruit has a characteristic odor that represents the dominant amount of esters, but there
are also esters that represent the smell of many different fruits and vice versa. [3]
Usually, esters used in the food, cosmetic, beverage, and confection industries are
synthesized or extracted from nature. Based on these flavor properties, in today's food
and cosmetic industries, esters are often used to create odors for products. However,
due to the high cost and some other reasons, most of the source is mainly from
chemical synthesis. Esters of mono- alcohols and mono- acids are usually liquids,
volatile, with a pleasant aroma of different fruits. The esters of aromatic acids also

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have characteristic odors of fruits, essential oils and natural aromas. But the chemicals

synthesis aroma is not good for health.
Only a quick study, we can also see harmful ingredients and possible consequences
for the health of consumers. Although on the market today there are many lip balms,
unleaded lipsticks, lipsticks containing natural ingredients ... but in general, these
lipsticks still need to use artificial colorants, and still use chemical composition. So
how to meet the increasing beauty needs of women and limit the negative
consequences and harmful effects of using lipstick?
The goal of the thesis “Researching uing some organic extraction to compound
lipstick” is studying the specific method and dosage to prepare cosmetics from natural
ingredients; compare working time, economic efficiency with other cosmetic products;
compare usage efficiency and consumer opinion on new products. The product can
minimize the amount of chemicals used in the cosmetic industry and the amount of
chemicals being put into the body during use. Moreover, taking advantage of the
available uses of natural preparations is not only safe for the health of consumers but
also has good benefits for the body, especially in beauty care. We can make the most
of what nature is available, both economically and environmentally friendly.
The product has the same shape, color, quality, usage, and preservation as other
products on the market. Users can use the product in a large amount without affecting
their health. In particular, lipstick is the product that is most susceptible to being put
into the body. With the lipstick does not contain harmful ingredients, users are always
comfortable and assured when using.
2.3. Application of researching materials.
2.3.1. Lipstick pigment.
This is an important part that determines the unique characteristics of each lipstick.
In order to mix with the lipstick base, the pigment must be in the form of gel or in dry
powder. Lip color will be mainly made up of the extraction from fruits or natural
products which were mentioned above. The main color components studied is:
 Lycopene and betacarotene from Gac fruit (red pigment).
 Betacyanin from red dragon fruit (strong pink pigment).

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 Cucurminoid from tumeric (yellow pigment).
The reason we choose the above ingredients is because they are safe and have been
used as spices in dishes since ancient times. There has been a lot of research on the
features, as well as the benefits from compounds from the above fruits. For example,
beta carotene in Gac has a better eye effect, limits myopia, is good for the heart, while
the cucurminoids in tumeric work very well in supporting stomach diseases ...
2.3.2 Lipstick flavoring.
Flavor is a term for an ingredient or a combination of materials used to impart a
flavor or a taste to cosmetics and personal care products. Flavors are typically included
only in products which may be subject to ingestion, such as lipsticks and oral hygiene
products. Many ingredients that function as fragrance components can also be used as
Flavor compounds. According to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, the term
flavour " on a product label signifies "any natural or synthetic substance or substances
used solely to impart a taste to a cosmetic product." In Europe, the labeling name for
Flavor is Aroma. Flavors are used in a wide variety of products to enhance the taste of
cosmetics and personal care products. They may also be used to produce or to mask a
particular flavor.
Some chemical aroma can cause irritation, rashes, skin aging, prolonged use can
affect the central nervous system or cause endocrine disorders. [15] Therefore, in this
research, essential oils from pomelo flowers will be studied to replace the chemical
essential oils commonly used in lipstick on the current market in order to reduce the
harmful effects to consumers' health.

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Figure 2.9. Essential oil

(Source: Internet)

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CHAPTER III. MATERIALS AND METHODS
3.1. Materials, contents and method.
3.1.1. Material.
The materials were provided by Faculty of Enviroment in Vietnam National
University of Agriculture: red dragon fruit, gac fruit, turmeric and Pomelo.
The experiment was conducted with three main subjects: red dragon fruit, gac and
tumeric. The ingredients should be:
- Lipstick base: Beewax; Soybean wax; Coconut oil; Olive oil.
- Lipstick pigment: Red dragon fruit; Tumeric; Gac.
- Lipstick aroma: Pomelo flower.
3.1.2. Time and place.
- Time: From 9/2020 to 2/2021.
- Place: Inviromental faculty in Vietnam National University of Agriculture.
3.1.3. Chemicals and equipments.
Machine: System of Sohlets experiment, thermostat tank, machine Vacuum,
magnetic stirrer, vortex, system of steam attractive distillation.
Chemical: Ancohol, Na2SO4, n-hexane, ethyl acetate/ ethanol solvent, food
alcohol…
There are also tools such as glass chopsticks, glass cups, lamp flares, solution
straws, filter cotton ...

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