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Birds - Section 3 - Bird feeders pdf

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Gf,!!
shelters wili not
keep
birds in
your yard
if
you
do not
pro-
vide
enough of
the right
kind of food.
Birds
need huge quantities
of food

compared
to their
size.
If
we all
ate
"like
birds" we
would have
endless meals that
daily
almost
equaled
our own weight.
In natural
surround-
ings
enough
food
is usually
supplied
by trees, vines,
plants,
and berries.
But
the
average
city lot, or
even a fair-sized
garden

or country
lot,
cannot
provide
enough food for
more
than
a
few
birds.
Food must
be supplied
to encourage
a
high
bird
population
and
to a,ttra,ct
a variety
of
birds to
the
alea.
There
are
two
different
types of
feeding:

summer
feeäing
and
winter
feeding.
As
the names
imply,
these
feeding
meth-
ods
are
dictated
by
the
weather
and
involve
two
different
procedures.
Many
people,
believe
that
they are
doing
their
duty

by throwing
bread
crumbs
to birds
throughout
the
year.
it
is
true
that
they
are helping
by
giving
the
birds
some
extra
food,
but
they
are not
supplying
what
the
birds
actually
Iike
and

need.
The
person
who
feeds
birds
correcily
varies
their
diet
according
to the
time
of
year.
Many
localities
have
enough
food
to support
a normal
number
of
birds
during
the
summer.
But,
if

an
area is
lack-
ing
in
trees,
if
there
are few
or no
gard.en
spots, if
there
is
Iittle
natural
or even
planted
vegetation,
then
summer
feed-
ing
is
as
important
as
winter
feeding
if

birds
are
to
be
attracted
and
help
in
the
neighborhood.
summer
feeding
Summer
feeding
will
naturally
bring
more
birds
to
the
yard
and garden.
Birds
brighten
our
lives
which
is
reason

enough
to feed
them
well.
Indeed,
summer
feeding
of
birds
is
a
greater
beneflt
to
people
than
to
the
birds
themselves.
With
a
little patience
and
time,
most
birds
can
be trained
to

come
up
to
your
house.
A friend
of
mine,
who
has
a
beauti_
ful
home
in
a well-wooded
area
on
the outskirts
of
a 1arge
city,
built
an
ordinary
platform
feeder
and
placed
it

at the
edge
of
the
woods.
Here
he fed
the
birds
every
day.
At
the
end
of
each
week
he
moved
the feeder,
which
was
on a
pipe,
about
5 to
6 feet
closer
to
the house.

The
birds
scarcely
noticed
the change
of location
and
day
by day
came
to the
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Pocific Flywoy
Centrol Flywoy
Mississippi
Flywoy
Atlontic Flywoy
Here
is a map showing
the
principal
migration
routes
used
by ducks
and
geese
that
pass
through North
America
to their
wintering
grounds
in the south.
Thousands
of
peo-
ple
all

over America
helped
wildlife
biologists
determine
the
routes or
flyways
used
by
our
waterfowl
between
their
northern
nesting
grounds
and
southern
wintering
areas'
-
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attract
by
winter
feeding. Any
information
that
would apply
throughout
the
country
would be very

general
and of
little
help.
There
are many
variables such
as
migration
paths
and
the
natural characteristics
of the countryside.
But by
learning
the
requirements
of their own
locality, thousands
of
people
are attracting
and
hotding
birds each
year
and
for many
years.

bird
diets
To make a feeding
program
successful,
it is
necessary
to
know the diet of the birds
you
wish to
attract
and
to dupli-
cate their
natural food as closely
as
possible.
On the
basis of their eating
habits, birds
may
be divided
for convenience
into insect-eating
and
seed-eating
birds,
although the
distinctions between

them
is not clean-cut.
Since
the majority
of birds fall
into both categories,
feeding
presents
little difficulty as
far as variety
in their
diet
is
concerned.
It is
advisable
to use
separate
feeders,
some
for
insects and
some for seeds.
If
you
wish,
you
can
have
a

combination
feeder
for both types
of food,
or
for the
birds
that eat both
insects and seeds.
The more feeders
you
have
the
more numerous and
varied
will be the
birds
you
attract.
With
several
well-located
feeders
you
will
provide
for the
natural tendency of
birds to
flit about

from
place
to
place
pecking,
scratching,
and exploring.
grit-an
essential
addition
Birds must take
a
certain
amount of
grit,
usually
a
very
fine
sand or
gravel,
with their
food for digestion.
In
normal,
natural feeding, the
pecking
a bird
does
on

the
ground
provides
this
grit.
fn winter
feeding, when
birds
do
not
get
enough
grit
this way,
it must be added to
their
food.
Usually
very fi.ne washed sand
or
gravel
is needed.
While
it
may
be
purchased,
any fine sand
that
you

can
fi.nd
in
your
locatity will work. Watch
where
an excavation
for a
new
building
is being
made and if they
strike
sand,
take
home
a
small bag.
A little will
last
all
winter.
A teaspoon
of
grit
to
a
quart
of feed is sufficient.
Crushed

charcoal
can
also
be
used
to
provide
grit.
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preparation
of suet
Making
suet into
cakes is
simple. First
put
the suet
through
an ordinary
kitchen
food
grinder.
This
will
break
it

up into
small
pieces
and
the
suet can
then
be melted
down
into
a
smooth
mass.
If
this step
is omitted,
the suet will
stay
lumpy
and
you
will
not
be
able to
pour
it
and mix it
with
Cut heavy

weight
aluminum foil
Into
squares.
Make
forms
by wrapping alumi-
num
around
tapered blocks.
58
69
Jnof
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Melted suet can
be
poured
over
seeds
in
grapefruit
shells, coco-
nut shells, and

other forms.
With the suet-seed mixture in a
semiliquid state,
press
it
into the
holes of
your
log feeder.
To make cakes
put
the seeds
into
any of the
receptacles or
forms described above. Let the suet cool slightiy until
it
begins to set.
If
the suet is too hot and too runny, some of the
seeds will
float.
If
you
like,
you
can
pour
the semiliquid suet
over

seeds that
you
have
placed
in half-grapefruit shells or
in
a coconut
shell.
These
can be set out on
the
feeder
plat-
forms in
the shells and when
empty,
refllled.
Two
coconut shell feeders,
both of
which can be used
for
melted suet and
seed, are illustrated on
page 102.
The one
with
the entrance hole
can be almost filled with the
mixture,

leaving
just
enough room for
the
hungry nuthatches and
chickadees to enter. There
are many other ways in which
suet-seed mixtures
can
be used to feed birds. You can drop
the seed into
the melted
suet, and when it is in
the
plastic
stage
and about
to harden,
the
mixture
can be forced into
the holes
of a
log
feeder.
Suet-seed
preparations
make
flne Christmas
decorations

as well
as holiday
gifts
for the
birds. When
in the
plastic-
liquid state,
the mixture
can be
poured
over a dead
pine
bough.
(This
should not
be done
on a
living tree since the
hot
suet would
kill
the branch.) The mixture
will stick to
the
dead branch,
which
can then be attached to
a living
tree or

used as
a winter window-box decoration. When
pouring
the
melted suet, hold
another utensil below to
catch the drippings,
or
try dipping the branch
into
the
mix-
ture,
but that can
be wasteful since some
of the
seeds and
suet will fall
to the
ground.
For insect
eating birds, the
National
Audubon Society
has
developed
a food mixture
called a
"food tree" which
ap-

proximates,
rather
closely, the bird diet
provided
by
normal
insect
clusters. This formula was
developed by
Von Ber-
Iepsch
and bears his name. The mixture is made as
follows:
Bread,
dried
and
ground
5 oz.
Meat,
dried and
ground
3
Hempseed 5
Millet 3
Ant "eggs"
2
Sunflower seed 3
Dried berries LL/z
The ingredients
are well mixed

and
then one
and one-half
times as much melted suet is
added.
ft
can
be offered
to the
birds
like
the suet-seed mixtures. It was originally
intended
to be
put
on tree
branches and
for
that
reason
was called
the "food
tree."
In
place
of ant eggs, the dried
meat can
be
increased
to

5 ounces.
60
TA
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Cardinals
have
a
special
fond-
ness for
sunflower
seeds
fat-seed mixtures

There
is no
end
to the variety of
formulas that can be used
for
preparing
bird food.
One of
the
more
popular-and
a
very low-cost
mixture-uses
kitchen
fat. To
prepare
this,
collect
discarded
kitchen
fat in
a can or
tin cup. When
you
have
a sufficient
amount
stir into

it
corn meal or flour or
any
of the
seeds
previously
described.
This
will
make
a
rather
soft mass
because
the fat
will not harden
as suet
does.
Since it
will
be used
principally
for winter feeding,
the
low
outside
temperature
wiil keep it
firm. It is
a

good
idea
to
add a little
salt
to all
these mixtures
since
the birds
relish
it. The
fat-seed
mixture,
as well as
other mixtures,
may
be spread
on
the rough
bark
of trees. This
is a natural
location
for
food
and
birds will
enjoy
pecking
at it

there.
seed feeding
Since
all
birds
eat some
seeds,
seed feeding
will
attract a
large
number
of
them;
even
predominantly
insect-eating
birds will
turn
to seeds in
winter
when insects
are
nor
available.
Almost
every
type
of seed is
usable

and
vour
tt;'
r.j:t',
I
62
't:i9il
Allen
Cruicksl^ark-"^- ihe
National Audubon Societv
89
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Sped mav he snread
on
the
ground
by
hand but this
is
wasteful
since
it becomes
cov-
ered with snow.
lt may
also

at-
tract
rats
to
your yard.
Hal
Harrison-
from the
National
Audubon
Society
our seed
mixture
With all the bird
feeding my family has done,
we have
finally come to a very simple formula.
We
have found that
for this region
(lower
Wisconsin), the food that birds
seem
to like most and which
attracts the
greatest
number of
them is
a 50-50 mixture of sunflower
seeds and

cracked
corn.
These
are
quite
inexpensive
and available
in bag
lots.
You can usually
buy both at a local feed store or
grain
elevator.
Just a note of warning: when
you
buy cracked
corn, be
sure it is cracked
and
not
ground.
Cracking breaks
up the
kernels into
good-sized
chunks. Ground corn,
as the name
implies,
is
ground

and in the
process
a
good
amount of
very
fi.ne "flour" is
produced
that
is
a complete
waste-even
squirrels
do
not
seem to like it. If
you
can only obtain the
ground
corn that I
suggest
you
sieve
it
through a
piece
of
common metal window
screening. If
possible,

store the
bulk
food in metal
containers and cover it
to
keep
out
spiders and moisture.
Gommercial seed
mixtures
There are
many well-balanced seed mixtures on
the
market
which are
put
up by reputable seed flrms.
Some of them
also
prepare
the
same
high-quality mixtures under
different
names for local
department stores,
pet
shops, and
garden-
ers. These are

branded as special for the
firm that handles
them. The
seed mixtures of
the
leading companies
make
excellent bird feed,
but they are
more
expensive
than
home-
made
preparations
made from different types
of seed
pur-
chased separately. In buying commercial
mixes, be
sure
that they are
put
out by a reputable flrm
and note the
pro-
portion
of seeds
in
the mixture. Some

people
have
pur-
chased
what
they
thought was a
good
feed only
to flnd that
it was
given
bulk by the
addition of a
lot of filler seeds
which were
not
eaten by
the birds.
how
to seed-feed
birds
There
are many ways
to
feed
seed to the
birds.
The simplest,
of course,

is
to spread it on the
ground.
This method
pro-
vides natural feeding
conditions
for birds and
they
will
respond
well to
it.
But the seed may attract
animals
that
are
not wanted, such
as field
mice
and
rats, and
it may also
spoil the appearance of
your yard.
In winter the
feed may
be covered with snow and
quite
a bit of

seed will be
wasted.
&
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ÜilIl
A
shock
of corn or
other
grain
provides
birds with
food
during
winter,
a
place
to
hunt
and

peck,
and excellent
protection
from
the
weather.
close,
such as a roost,
high fence,
or large
branch of
a dead
tree that
the birds
can use as
a
landing
strip
to survey
the
situation
before
they alight
on the feeder.
Birds
are suspi-
cious and want
to see
everything
about

them
before they
move.
A
Suggestion:
It
is important
that
you place your
feeders where
birds are
most
likely
to come,
but it is
just
as important
that they be
placed
where
you
can
get
to
them easily. This
often
is
not
done.
When locating

them in the fall,
try
to visualize
what
that spot
will
be like in
the middle
of winter. Is it
where
you
usually
have
4-ft.
drifts?
Will
you
normally
have
a
path
shoveled
to
that location?
Sometimes
feeders
are
placed
where
they

are
inaccessible
during
the
time
of the
year
when
birds
are in
most need
of
food,
with
the result
that
food is
never
put
out for
them.
Don Wooldridge-from
the Natlonal Audubon
Society
Make
the most of
the bird instinct
to
peck
for its food.

One
of the
best methods is
to have
a
large
shock of corn-
stalks with
leaves
and
ears
near
the winter feeders. A
shock
of wheat,
oats,
or barley
can be used
but corn
is
the
best
because it
will
afford a high
perch
from which
the
birds can view
the feeder.

In
addition, it
provides good pro-
tection
from severe
weather,
food for
hunting
and
pecking,
as
well as nesting
material in
the spring. Locate
the shock
in a
good
place
and birds
will make
good
use of
it
through-
out the fall,
winter,
and spring.
66
suet log
feeder

As the name implies,
the suet log feeder is made of a log
with
the bark still
adhering to it. To make one, select any
type of wood,
although a hardwood,
such as oak,
is
prefer-
able. Elm makes
very
good
log feeders because its branches
are round
and straight.
Select a
piece
4
inches in
diameter,
and
cut it l9L/z inches
iong.
Point the
ends
at
about
45 de-
grees

and
drill a,
g/+-incn.
hole
just
below the bevel at the
top for the
nut of the
L/+-inen'
eye bolt. Always
use
an
eye
bolt instead
of a screw
eye; a screw
eye
will
pull
out
in
time.
Drill
the vertical
/e-inch.
hole for
the eye bolt in the upper
end.
Drill
the

ll+-inc}r
holes
(or
larger) for the suet
as
indicated.
Also drill holes for
perches
under two opposite rows of
suet
holes. Drive in
the
l/+-inc}r
dowel
perches.
Oil
painted
on
the top and bottom will
help
to
prevent
checking.
Hang
the suet
log
feeder on long wire away from the tree
for
protection
against squirrels. If

the
feeders swing too
much,
attaeh
another wire at the bottom with a weight on it.
bill
Log:
Dowels
for
perches:
Eye
bolt
(with
nut
of materials
4-in.
dia.
x 19lz in.
6-Y+-in.
dia.
x
2l+
in.
68
and washer) 1-l+
xZlz in.
69
-l
v/tza
USHSVM

CNV
l-NN
ul z
xv/l
"rJoE
3^3
scNf
Hrog lv
cltNlod
co-l vro
HlNl-P
v
-io
30v|/!
ESCffJ
co-l ]:ns
NO-'l
,,2./t 6l
tvlo
,,u
-+-
3toH
tf-F
square-block
suet
feeder
The
square-block
feeders
are

very
versatile
because
they
accommodate
both
the
clinging
types
of
birds
as well
as
those
that
like
a
perch.
Use
a
piece
of
wood
4
by
4
(38le
by
35/a)
by

18
in.
long.
Lay
the
wood
out
according
to the
d.raw-
ing.
Bevel
the
top
and
bottom
4b
deg.
and
then
drill
the
horizontal
g/+-in hole
for
the
nut
of
the
eye

bolt. Do
not
use
a
screw
eye
because
it
will
pull
out
in
time.
Drill
the
r1/z-in.
holes
for
holding
the
suet.
on
two
opposite
sides
drill
the
holes
for
the

/+-in.
perches.
On
the
other
two
op_
posite
sides,
make
horizontal
saw
cuts
which
will
serve
as
footholds
for
clinging
birds.
This
sawing
can
be
easily
done
on
the
circular

saw
as
shown.
Drive
in
the
L/+-in.
dia,.
by
Zl+-in.
dowel perches.
The
feeder
can
be
stained
brown,
but
do
not
paint
it.
Allow
it
to weather
at least
a
month
before
food

is
put
into
it.
Hang
the
feeder
on
long
wire
away
from
the
tree
trunk
so
that
squirrels
cannot
reach
it.
rf
the
feeder
swings
too
much,
use
a
wire

to attach
a weight
to
the
bottom.
Body:
bill
of
materials
1-4x
4-18
in.
Dowels
for
perches:
6-/+-in.
dia. x
Zy+ in.
Eye
bolt
(with
nut
and
washer):
l-/+
in.
x
p
in.
70

TL
+^
vs SvlncHlc No
1n3
fuv s3^oou9 cNnf,
hror.Loe oNV
doI
orl,'!vu^d
v
I
I
-r
a"l
\
lroE 3^3
\z
xu/r
,
9No-r,,gt
-
P
X ?
3Nrd Jo 30vh,l
H?.r-r: r |
-lns
seed
feeder
and
suet log
turned

on a
lathe
Anyone
with
a woodworking
lathe
can make
this
practical
feeder
that
is
attractive
to
birds
and which
is
a
yard
and
garden
ornament
as well.
The
suet
is inserted
in the
holes
in
the

turned
body
of the feeder
and
the
seed is
put
into
the
circular
troughs
around
the
center. It
has
a
place
for
grit,
which
is
important
to birds
for
digestion.
The
feed.er
can
be made
of any

type
of
wood.
Maple
is
best,
although
white
pine
is
easy
to
turn
and
work.
Make
the upright
body
first. Drill
the holes
on a
drill
press
if
one is
available.
The
top is
made
of

B/+-in.
stock.
The
bottom
is
made
of 2-inch
stock.
perhaps
you
will
have
to
glue
up
wood
for
the
bottom
to
obtain
the
lg-in.
diameter.
Drill
holes
in
the body
for
perches

on
two sides
of the
upper
holes.
Screw
the bottom
on from
below
using
a 3-in.
wood
screw.
The
top
can
be nailed
on the
upright
body
with
Zr/z-
in.
finishing
nails
driven
at an
angle
toward
the

center.
A
screw
eye,
4 in.
long,
will
help
to
hold
the
unit
together.
The
feeder
can be
painted,
if
desired,
or stained.
Allow
it
to
weather
before it
is
put
up.
Body:
Top:

bill
of
materials
1-3/+
x
3Y+
x 701/z
in.
L-
3/+
x 75
x 15
in.
round
Bottom:
7-2
x
18
x 18
in.
round
Dowels
for
perches:
2-
Vq-in.
dia.
x 3
in.
Screw

eye:
t-4
in.long
72
AL
g/e
I
t/ll
{
F
r
i {
I
r rl
I
->l
88,/el
tl
-vA
v/e
t*1
) ?/e
7{
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J
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v/l
+3HIV-l
NO

O]NUnI
SIUVd
-
-
-
s3-loH
NlvEo
:^f
MSUfS
3-'loH
altt>
aTV-E=CE:
pfatform
feeder
with
suet
logs
A
platform
feeder
with
suet logs
allows
you
to serve seeds
and suet
at
the same
time.
The

two
posts
are B in.
square by
7
in. long.
The
top is
tapered
at
45
deg. The
two
upper,
oppo-
site holes
in
the
two
posts
have
rough
saw
cuts below
them
to
provide
a foothold
for
clinging

birds. The
other
two holes
are
at the
lower
end
so that
the
birds
can
perch
on the
base
of
the feeder
when
eating. The
holes
a,re LT+-in.
in
diameter;
they
may
be made
larger
if
desired.
For
the base

which is
made
of.
8/e-in.
stock
a solid
piece
of
wood or
plywood
can
be
used. Edge
strips
prevent
the
loss
of seed.
In
the ittus-
tration, screw
eyes are
used for
hanging;
however,
the
eye
bolts shown
in
the illustrations

of
the log
feeders
are
better.
Give the
entire
unit
a coat of
weatherproof
stain;
do
not
paint.
bill of materials
Posts:
2-3
x 3 x
7in.
Base:
1-
3/+x12
x24in.
Side strips:
2-
3/+
x
3/e
x 24 in.
End

strips:
2-
s/+
x
a/s,
x L2
in.
Eye
bolts
or
screw
eyes:
2-
l+
x2L/+ in.
platform
feeder
This is the
simplest feeder
you
can build.
It
can be
mounted
on
a
wood
or metal
post.
The

feeder ean be moved about the
garden
or
yard
as desired
to bring
feeding
birds closer
to a
window or to the house.
Solid stock or
a/+-in.
outside
ply-
wood
can be used. Give the feeder
a coa,t of
weatherproof
stain but do not use
paint.
bill
of
materials
Base: I-3/+ x L2 x 18 in.
Side
strips:
2-3/+ x
3/+
x 18 in.
End strips:

2-3/+ x
3/+
x 12 in.
74
9L
ffi
v)oLs,,"/e
Zl
'r
,t
qt
3^f
fl\3U3S
"?./e
SCOI
If NS
HIIM
U3C33J
T\EOJIV-Id
weather-vane
feeder
The
weather-vane
feeder
has always
been
popular
because
it
not

only
protects
the
food
placed
in it;
but since
it rotates
with
the wind;
it
also offers
maximum
protection
to
the
birds.
Lay out
and
cut
the sides
two
at a
time by nailing
the two
pieces
together.
Make
all of
the other

parts.
Make
the
ys
by
l/q-in.
groove
in
the
sidepieces.
Note
that
there
are right-
and
left-hand
parts.
Make
a
groove
of the same
size in
the
bottom
for
the
glass.
NaiI
cleats
to

the
sidepieces;
then
at-
tach
the
bottom
with nails.
Slide
the
glass
into
position
and
nail
on
the
top. Fit
the
vanes in
place
and
secure
them
with
two
brads. Drill
holes
for
the

t/+-in.
bolts.
The
drawing
shows
the location
of the
pivot
block.
This
position
was
the
exact
center
of
gravity
of
the feeder
made
by the
writer.
The
center
of
gravity
will be
determined
by
the

weight
of
the stock
used.
To
flnd
the correct
position
of
the
hole in
the
bottom
and
the location
of
pivot
block
on the
inside
top,
balance
the
completed
feeder
on
some
sharp
object,
such

as center
point
held
upside
down in
a vise.
This
will
accurately
locate
the center
of
gravity,
and if
the
feeder
is
correctly
balanced
it
will swing
freely
with
the
wind.
The
entire
unit can
be
stained.

It
can
be
painted
on
the
out-
side,
but
do not
paint
the
floor where
the
seed is
placed.
bill of
Sides:
Bottom:
Front
roof:
Rear roof:
Cleats:
Edge
strip:
Vanes:
Pivot
block:
Pivot
rod:

Glass:
Carriage
bolts
(with
nuts
and
washers):
materials
2-
lz
x9
x 9lz
in.
L-
1/z
x9/z
x1.5
in.
L-
7/z
x 9Vz x 18
in.
1-
1/z
x9lz
xL8
in.
2-g/ext
x 9L/zin.
L-

L/z
x
3/a,
x 16
in.
2-
L/z
x5
x22 in.
L-2
x2
x1
in.
1-
t/z
dia.
x
20 in.
I-5r/z
x L6L/z in.
4-
Ya
x ZYz
in.
76

×