CHƯƠNG 7 các DẠNG sản PHẨM mỹ PHẨM đặc TRƯNG

X,\( c1inh nhu cAu eua
ngu'oi sli' o\lng

j

I

~

Xae einh de ye,. du ky
'hu~t cl'ta siin pLt-.,

Ll/a ehun de

J~)ai

rg.lyen

j~.l

I"

(Nguyen dell/a ehQn, yeu diu v~
tfnh chdt..)

xii fq~;

Thiet l~ P cong thltc

~a

~~DT'

j

Thl'( nghi<;m dn

rh~m (trans prong thf

~1ahi0m tren Goi tu'~ing, tren i<,.,aeh
e

.

,

_j_n_~._l _ _~
.

Hi~ll chlnh cong thlte

----l

L

~----,~

L-

Thil' nghi~m tren thi tru'onb

,

. .,



TiNA CHAT ·'_~tJA S/\N PHAl\1 DA-NG NHO

VE'] CAll

I
Chi phi

I

Cam nhi;in
bcn ngoai ,.,-/

1-----

I

D~ dung

Mlli

ClJA NGU0I si'f Dl)NG

I

Cam nh~n trcn da
trong qua trlnh SU' d~lIlg

I
Mau, mui, d(. c;n
djnh, LQai Lhl1,
TIlt; th6 ('~h pha.
St/ phan b:; kich

I

fC~lm nh~n trcn

da

sau khi sU' dl)ug

Tfnh nang
chung

Tinh ch,ly
LQai '1~.1

do

~ = It; the tieh pha, tinh
'hat duty, D() {In djnh

Tinh chat cua nhling
nguyen lii;u kL ~:lg

bay h(ji

- _Qat d0, thli'
nghie;m (j
phong thi nghi~m
kha nang t6n t4i,
nang xuycn
sau clia hqat chat

kha

thltli~ h~ t

I
Tat d ( nauyen .
b lieu
Phtfong phap san
xua't,

Tinh nang
chuycn bi<;t

L"i __I

I

Lq< i huejng
Cuong
D(l b~n
LQai:lhl1

--I

U6ig g6i"

I

I
n
Huon b'

_

Tat d nguyen
li';u

D6ng b
o6i

Tat d cae nnuyen . 'dac biet la pha d~u
b lieu
.
.
chftt .1hl1 h6a va nhling nguycn li~u kh6ng bay hoi,

PhilU: p_h_a_p_l_~_n_x_~_a_'t

_

Ban chit cua cae

hQat chit va kha
nang tu'::ing hejp
v'~i CiclC ~ha,1"~ ph~n
khac

I
I

Cong thLi'c, dong goi, nguyen li¢u tho, d~c tinh san phiim va qua trlnh san xua't


M~t-uUv.d
,o.-k.

!'J.

- bM

'g~

I

Tct1.c.
2'l'vO

ZtvS!-~
Tfrfh ~t 11, f
'lIcV M.e1:M~

H~+M~

f.'~~)

Pdh;-<- [1)

r

tu

3f.o

1s";lJ

G.O

5":CJ

5:0
8.0

0:0

t~

:e

-16,,0

5":0

-

P.~b~(%)

.l.4-.o

.,30.0

-

t1f1/ 21V)

50.0

~.o

1°·0

LM=

-

4C.O

&. -(,

16.. .

0

.45:0

4f.O

-

/{ (j,,,l)

t-.f-.­

&iv

(Z)



...

,.."

",'?

",?,..'

",?

QUY TRINH PHOI CHE SAN PHAM PHAN TRANG DIEM

ra

H6n h<;fp n +
C'ic nguyen li~u
1;h~~

Trc)n c.1€u

Mall

HltOng

I

Khllay tron

Ki~m tra

Bao bi

Dong g<5i

San phftm

-

------

i

,

• !fot
~
i

4euv

~

-

.--­

~d ~

vt~ (o~"O~;;,

-­

....-~

o/-u,~ v~ &.ar;

)

_

_

Od

~ ~al\l

_.I

;U

~~ ~:v 4';;

.

,

\l~

oIM.~

!A

f:'7L.J
.....
ck; /~ r6
~~


r AllLE

2.

COSMETIC CREAMS AND LoTIONS-EMULSION TYPE, ApPROXIMATE OIL PHASE

CONTENT, AND OIL PHASE MELTING POINT

Product

Emulsion typc'"

Emollicnt cream

O/W, WjO

Emollicnt lotions

OjW, WjO

Approx. %
oil phasct
OjW 25-6S;
WjO 4S-80
OjW 1O-3S;

WjO 4S-80
Iland creams
'-land lotions
:::Ieansing crcams
:::leansing lotions
vanishing creams
~oundatiol1 creams

OjW
OjW

OjW, WjO
OjW
OjW
OjW

\Il-purposc creams
v1en's hairdressings
~adies' hairdressings
3rushlcss shaving cream
-Iormone and spccial
nourishing creams
;unscreen creams

OjW, Wjn
OjW, WjO
OjW, WjO
OjW

\.ntiperspirant creams and
lotions
:old-wave creams

OjW, WjO
OjW, WjO

O/W
OjW

JO-25
5-15

30-70 •
IS-30

15-30
20-35

/

3S-45
3S-50

35-70
15-35
40-80
OjW 15-30;
WjO 40-60

5-2S

5-15

Approx. Ill.p.
oil phase I"

3S---4SoC
OjW JO-SS"C;

WjO < JS"C
40-5SoC
40-S5°C

< 3SoC

< 35°C

> SO°C /

40-5SoC
(unpigmcntcd)
35-4S"C

< JO°C
< 15°C
45-55°C
<3rC
< 15-S5°C

> 37°C
> 37°C

... \Vhere both systcms are used, the preferred one is given in italics.
The figures quoted are given as generalizations, and exceptions obviously exist in
lractice.

t


T ADLE 3.

SOME COMMON OIL PHASE INGREDIENTS

Melling
point, °C

Ingredient

Application and properties

2

Hydrocarbo/1s
Mineral oils

liquid

Petroleum jelly

38-54

Paraffin wax

50-60

Microcrystalline wax
Ozokerite wax
Ceresin wax
A leo/lOis
Oleyl alcohol
C14-C 1 8 saturated fatty
alcohols

}

61-78

liquid

38-59

Emollient; prone to rancidity
Emollient; promote occlusive film; emul­
sion stabilizing agent
-)

Fatty acids
Oleic acid
C14-C18 saturated fatty
acids

Major vehicle in many products either as
functional ingredient, e.g. in clcansing
creams, hair dressings or as diluent for
other fatty materials
Oil phase thickening agent; emollicnt;
sticky
Poor oil absorption; imparts thixotropy to
a liquid oil phase
High oil absorption; oil phase thicken i 11g
agents; can give occlusive films similar to
petroleum jelly when mixed \vith mineral
oil

13-16
58-69

Soap emulsifier; prone to rancidity
Soap emulsifier; major oil phase ingred ien t
in vanishing creams, brushless creams and
some hand creams

liqUid}
liquid

Relatively non-greasy liquid vehicle;
can promote skin penetration
Emollient wax
Emollient wax; auxiliary emulsilier

Esters
Butyl stearate
Isopropyl myristate
Spermaceti
Glyceryl monostearate
(and reb ted partial
fatty acid esters)
Vegetable oils

42-50
56
various

Emollients, particularly triglycerides of
unsaturated acids

Lanolin
Wool wax alcohols

34-48
54

Carnauba

83-86

Beeswax

62-65

ExcelIent cmollient; uscd in many products
Emollient waxes; \V /0 emulsifiers or O/W
emulsion, stabilizing agents
High oil absorption properties; oil phase
thickening agent
Emollient wax; soap emulsifier

Complex


TABLE

4.

SOME COMMON WATER PHASE INGREDIENTS

1

-------...,..--------~
Ingrcdicnt

Application and propcrtics

IlllJl/cclaJlls
Glycerol, sorbitol, propylcnc
glycol, polyoxycthylene glycols

llydropltilic Col/aids
Cellulosic gums, sodium alginate,
carragheen gums, gum traga­
canth, Carbopol,50 Veegum,57
bcntonitc
l:ktfro/.l'I('s
Aluminium salls
Ammonium thioglycollate
Mercuric salls
Magnesium sulphate
Borax

TABLE

Water phase
composition

High pH
Neutral, electrolyte-frce
Low pH
Polyvalent cations
Polyvalent anions
Cationic surface active
agents
Anionic surface active
agents

1
J

5.

,

V'later soluble cmollicnts; prevcnt drying
out of O/W creams; can impart sticky
cnd-feel when incorporatcd ill high
proportions
Water phase thickening agents added to
stabilize and thicken O/W emulsions,
barrier agent in protective hand~reams

Antipcrspirant creams
Cold-wave creams
llJeacll' creams
W/O creams as stabilizing agent
Cold creams

Bacleriocides
Hexachlorophene, quaternary
ammonium salts, chlorinated
phenols, esters of
p-hydroxybenzoic acid

r·

J

Deodorant and antiscptic creams, pre­
servatives

EMULSifiER-WATER PHASE COMPATWIUTY

Emulsifier
Anionic

Nonionic

Cationic

Stable

Esters unstablc
Ethers stable
Stable
Stable

Unstable

Stable

Stable

Stable
Stable

Usually unstable
Stable

Stable

Unstable

Stable
Soaps unstable
SOI11C nOll-soaps stable
Soaps unstablc
Somc non-soaps stable
Stable
Unstable
Stable

Stable
Stable


TABLE

I

6.

CLASSIIICATION OF EMUL'iION J'HODUCTS BY PERFORMANCE

Performance determined primarily Performance determined by •
active principle
by emulsion as such
in emulsion serving as a convenient vehicle
Emollient creams and lotions
Hand creams and lotions
Cleansing creams and lotions
Vanishing creams

Foundation creams

HairdreSsing (see Ch. XVII)

Shaving creams (see Ch. XVIII)


I

Make-up creams
Hormone and speciality nourishing creams
Sunscreen creams
Antiperspirant creams
Cold-wave creams (see Ch. XVlI)

......... -~---~ .. _.~--~-..---_.

-~-~------------~~

~-~.


-------_._------­


TABLE

8.

ANIONIC STABILIZED EMOLLIENT CREAM AND LoTION FORMULAE

f

2
O/W crcam

%
Oil Phase
Almond oil
Mineral oil
Pctroleum jelly
Ozokerite
Cetyl alcohol
Spermaceti

Lanolin'
Beeswax/
Oleic acid ~
Glyceryl monostearate-self
emulsifying
Lanette wax SX·
Water Phase
Borax /
Triethanolamine
Glycerol
,
Water
Preservative
Antioxidant .
Perfume

318
O/W crcam

%

-

8·0
8·0

5 211
O/W lotioll

% -

%
"

-

I

-

•
25·0
10·0
-

10·0
12·0
-

3·0

-

2·0
5·0
2·0

-

-

-

14·0

-

-

-

42·3
qs.
-

qs.

7·0

-

-

-

20·0

-

0·7

~/

4 111
O/W crcam

5·0
56·0
qs.
qs.
qs.

•

-

,

-

3·0

3·0
-

16·0

-

-

-

5·0
56·0
qs.
qs.
qs.

1·5

84·9

0·3
0·3

• (Cetyl stearyl alcohol, c. 10 per cent sulphated.)

Formulations 2, 3 and 4 can be made byadding the water phase at 70-75°C
to the oil phase at 70-75°C with moderate agitating. The emulsion is then
cooled with stirring to about 45°C when the perfume is added. Formulation 2
can be hot-poured. Formulations 3 and 4 should be homogenized at moderate
pressure.
Formulation 5 should be prepared by adding the oil phase at 75'JC to tIle
water phase at 75°C, cooling to 45°C, perfuming, and homogenizing when
cool.
The nonionic emulsions (Table 9) are formed by adding the water phase
at 70-75°C to the oil phase at 70-75°C with moderate stirring.
Formulation 6 should be perfumed at 50°C and poured just before the
set point.
Formulation 7 should be perfumed at 45°C and cooled with stirring to

~ hrlllt 1 I:;

or

'(,J


272

R.
TAilLE

9.

CLARK

NONIONIC STAmUZED EMOLLIENT CREAM AND LonON FORMULATIONSI

6 21
0/W cream

Water Phase
Water
Glycerol
Sorbitol 70 %
Borax I
r·
Magncsium sulphate
Antioxidant
Preserva t i ve

Perfume

I

821

9

W/O cream

W/O lolion

%
Oil Phase
Mineral oil
Sunflower seed oil
Olive oil
Lanolin
Ozokeritc
Paraflin wax
Cercsin wax
Beeswax ./"
Slearic acid ./
Petroleum jelly
Cetyl alcohol
Hartolan wool wax alcohols
Arlacel 83 21
Arlacel60
Tween 60
Atlas G 1425

722
W/O cream

%

%

0/
/0

35·0

17·0
15·0

15·0

-

-

-

10-0

1-0

2·0

-

-

-

-

-

17-0

-

-

5-0
0·6
20·0
2·0
6'0

-

•

5·0
5·0

-

-

-

-

-

-

3·0

-

-

4·0

30-3

-

-

-

-

2·5

-

0·3

-

-

-

0'2

-

qs.

-

} 0·4

2·0
-

-

-

qs.
qs.

-

2·0

-

/

1·0

35·0

-

31·7

-

30-0
2-0
-

-

33·0

25-0

-

2·0
3·0

-

•

-

-

-

"/

qs.
qs.

34·3
2·5

0-2
qs.
qs.
qs.

Formulations 10 and 11 of Table 10 are emulsified by adding the oil
phase at 70°C to the water phase at 70°C with high speed stirring. The
products are perfumed at 45°C and homogenized at approximately 35°C.

Formulation 12 can be prepared by slowly adding the hot water phase to
the hot oil phase with stirring.


TAlJLE

lO.

CATIONIC STAllILlZED EMOLLIENT CREAMS AND LOTION FORMULAE

I

1023
O/W cream

11
O/W lotion

12 24
W/O cream

%

%

0/

/0

Oil Phase

Peanut oil
Mineral oil
Petroleum jelly
Lanolin
Ozokerite
Cetyl alcohol
Dialkyl (C12-C 1B) quaternary
ammonium salt
Arquad 2HT58
Stearyl dimethyl benzalkonium chloride
Propyl ,,-hydroxy benzoate
Antioxidant
Water Phase
Water
Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate
Propylene glycol
Perfume

-

-

J 5-0
15-0
0-0
2'0

2·0

10-0

2-5
2-5
-

•

-

1·0

-

-

0·75
-

-

-

-

10-0

-

-

GO'O

20-0
29-0
5-0

84·25

-

-

-

qs.

qs.

o· J5
0'05

31·3
0'15
3·0
0·35


11.

TABLE

ANIONIC STAIlILIZED HAND CREAM AND LoTION FORMULAE

,

13
O/W cream

j

J 4 25

O/W crC:1Jl1

%

I

%

0/

/11

c

~

Waler Phase
Water

Carbopol 934

Glycerol

Sorbitol 70 ~~

Triethanolamine,'

Preservative

Perfume


3·0

O/W lotion
0/

/n

1·0
1·0
0·5
5-0 "
1·0

-

3·0
3·0

1·0
2·0
8·0
6·0
1·0
-

-

-

12·0

-

-

2·0
2:0
15·0
2·0

-

-

1·0

-

74-0

71·6

-

-

-

72·65
1·0
3·0
3·0
1·35
qs.
qs.

3-0
3·0
1·4
qs.
qs.

.


-

5·0
-

qs.
qs.

85·10
0·15
2·0

J·O
1·25
qs.
qs.

I

TABLE

12.

NONIONIC STADlLlZED HAND CREAM AND LOTION FORJ\WLAE

17
O/W cream

Wtller Phase
Water
Triethanolamine
Carbopol 934

Sorbitol 70 ~~
Glycerol
Preserva tive
Perfume

18
O/W cream

19 21
O/W lotion

%
Oil Phase
Mineral oil
Isopropyl myristate
Stearic add
Microcrystalline wax
Cetyl alcohol
Lanolin
Arlacel20
ArJaccl 80
Tween 40
Tween 60
Lanbritol N21 59

__

._--_.

I

Oil Phase
Mineral oil

Isopropyl myristate

Cetyl alcohol

Stearic acid

Lanolin
Spermaceti
Glyceryl monostearate-seJf
emulsifying
Sodium cetyl sulphate

1

J (j ~

15
O/W crcam
,

%

%

3·0

1·0
1·5
7·0

2·0
6·0
1'0
0·8

8·0
),0

0'5

0,5
2·4
2·5
4-0

79·8

74·6
',65
1·25

5·0
qs.
qs.

79·5

10·0
5·0
qs.
qs.

qs.
qs.

.


TAULE
......

13.

ANIONIC STAUILIZED CLEANSING CREAM AND LOTION FORMULAE

<

20
O/W cream

%

"­

'>.

Oil Phase
Mineral oil
Ozokerite
Beeswax
Paraffin wax
Cetyl alcohol
Stearic acid
Oleic acid
Lanolin-­
(Hartolan 60 ;
...

. -~~.

21
O/W cream
0/

'"

-

%

.

-

-

-

-

-

2·5

0·5

-

-

0·5
3·0

-

0·5

,

If)''

-

-.

-

I

"

10·0

-

~
"-

_.­

WaterJiliase
Water
Borax
Triethanolamine
Sodium lauryl sulphate
Preservative •
Perfume

-

9·0
5·0

"-

-

­

!

20·0

44·0
6·0

-

,

23 30 -' /.c. -.~
O/W lotion i

%

/0

50·0

22
O/W lotion

----.,..-

.

-

-

..._-~.

"-

35'55
0·45
-

qs.
qs.

46'0

1·0
qs.
qs.

78·0

84'7

-

-

1·8 /

-

iO'

-

q.
qs.

qs.
qs.
,

All foUf emulsions can be formed by adding the water phas t 70°C to
the oil phase at 70°C with stirring. The products should be perfume ­ t 4SOC.
,
Formulation 20 can be filled into jars at 40°C. Formulations 21, 22, d 23
should be cooled to 25-30°C and homogenized. The precise conditions or
cooling and homogenizing 22 should be determined experimentally as till
type of lotion tends to thicken on ageing, if the end-processing conditions are ,
not correct.


TADLE

14.

NONIONIC STABILIZED CLEANSING CREAM
AND LOTION FORMULAE

.~

24
W/O crcam

,

'~\:.,.-~-".-",..»>-"~

...

Phase
Waler

Prcservative

Perfume


%

%


40·0
6·0
2·0
2·5
-

50·0

)

O/W 10 lion .~


%
Oil Phase
M incral oil
Ozokcrilc
Parallin wax
Lanolin
Beeswax
Cetyl alcohol •II
ArIacel 80 /'
ArJacel ~3
Tween 40
Tween.'sO .L...
.(Ati~s G 1726 .

25 21
O/W crcam

o

25·0

1·0

2·0


-

1·5
0·25
-

-

7·0

26


-

-

1·0 /
1,5./

2·0
g·O .

3·5 /

-

..­

~V(1fer

47·75
qs.
.
qs.

33·0
qs.
qs.

66·0
qs.
qs.

Emulsion 24 is fanned by adding the water phase to the oil phase at 70°C
ith stirring. The product should be perfumed at 45°C and homogel1ized
35°C.
EmuJsions 25 and 26 are formed by adding the oil phase to the water pbase
70°C with stirring. After perfunling, 25 can be poured at 45°C, but 26
LOuld be stirred until at room temperature.

I


TAl1 LE

15.

\'ANISI"r·~(;

CIZE",t.j

r ()IlJd II L ,\ I'

c

i

j

_.~--,--

27

2832

o/

Oil PlIme
Stearic acid

Cctyl alcohol


0/

/0

" 0

150
0·5

200
0·5

SI~Crll1aceti

I

29

{}

0
/0

•

250

J

oj

s·n

50

2

f\ I incral () i I

La [wi i 11

Albeel iU

J' 'dlcr

•

J(l ~ 1

I)

()~

20

l'!J<1\C

78'S5

(,1).1),\

(i Iycl'l (>1

50

81)

Snrbiln 1 7()~~
Potassiull1 Ilydrll\ ide
SndiUI\1 hydm"idc

0·65

\V;llcr

., riel [lal1()I:lI11illC

(,1) '\

7 \·1

~o

J'7

UJ


o J()
12U

2-alllino-2-lllCIIl) J- J,3
J '.~

plOJl:lllcdiol
Prcscrva ti\c

qs.

q.~.

I'nfllJ Ill'

'IS.

C] s,

'IS.
LJ s.

(j ').

liS.
~,----

-rhc IJlclhud of preparation or vZlnishlllg creams is quilc iI11I'UrLiJil. illili~d
cilluisilll'atiull is made b.y preparing the 50,lp in ,Ii/II, either hy adding: llle "d
phase to the water [,hase, or vice versa. EmulsiflC~lli(iIl shl)lI l d ht.' Cllli,.:d
out at 70--75"C. The c()ulil1g of the cream and \\(')lkill!! dlllillg: ~111\1 Lilll:'1
coolillg can ill(111cllce cCJIlsidcrahly th~ cOI,siSltlKy ~\11r1

SIICCI1

all,! k\LUlc

lll'

cream. TIle crcam Iliay ill? CUI)!cd \\ill! slirrillg tu '\(I C ~illcl tllen ~l!j(l\\Cl[
lu cool iIlUil\S fUI c\f; III to reLlI_'ll roOI11 kIl I'l>rzdlllc.T\lilljllg lIJr<.ll1:'!l ~l lri[ik

tile

19


TABLE

16.

ANIONIC STABILIZED FOUNDATION CREAM FORMULAE

31 33
O/W
vanishing
cream type

%
Oil Phase
Mineral oil
Slearic acid
Cclyl alcohol
Butyl stearate
Lanolin

Glyceryl monostcaratc
Lanetle wax SX
Wafer Phase
Water
Glycerol
Sorbitol
Triethanolamine
Potassium hydroxide
Sodium hydroxide
Zinc stearate
Titanium oxide
Powder base
Colour
Preservative
Perfume

32 3 <1
O/W

%

-

-

25'0
4'0
2'0

3'0

3'0

-

-

2·5

18·0
0·5

-

59·8
18·0

-

0·52
0·18

-

%'

-

15'0
72·0
-

7·0

-

.

55·0
-

-

-

1·5

-

-

-

-

3·0

-

-

-

-

qs.
qs.
qs.

qs.
qs.

33
O/W
pigmcntcd

10·0
-

I

qs.
qs.

Emulsions 31 and 32 are formed by adding the water phase at 75°C to the
oil phase at 75°C with stirring. After perfuming, 31 should be cooled to
40°C, and millcd aftcr 24 hr. Formula 32 should be cooled with stirring to
25-30°C.
Emulsion 33 is formcu by aulling lhc oil phase at 70°C to the watcr phase
(less the powdcr base) at 70°C with high speed stirring. The powdcr base
should be added at 50-55°C, the product perfumed at 4SOC, cooled with

slow speed stirring to room temperature and then milled. In order to avoid
aeration, the powder base can be pasted out with a minimum quantity of
water taken from the water phase.
Formulalions 34, 35 and 36 are prcpared by adding the watcr phase (less
any titanium dioxide and colouring !TIatter) at 75°C to the oil phase at 75°C.
TIle titanium dioxide and colour are dispersed in a part of the emulsion and


TABLE

17.

NONIONIC STAOILIZED FOUNDATION CREAM FORMULi\E

O/W

:15
O/W
pigl1lcll ted

36 115
O/W
pigmclll cd

37 2.1
O/W
l?igl1lcnlcd

%

%

%

%

34n~

-

Oil Phase
Isopropyl myristate-palmitate
Mineral oil
Stearic acid
Cetyl alcohol
Lanolin
Petroleum jelly
Lanbritol wax N215 9
Polawax~o

Arlacc1 60
Tween 60

Wafer Phase
Water
Glycerol
Sorbitol
Propylene glycol
Titanium dioxide
Talc

Colour and pigment
Iron oxide
Preservative
Perfume

10·0
-

10·0
5·0

-

20·0

1·0

-

-

J 2·0

-

-

-

2·0

2·0

-

4·0

-

6·0

-

-

-

-

3·0

14·0
-

-

2·0
1·0

.
66·0

5·0
-

-

71·0
8·0

-

-

61·0
5·0
-

-

58·0

3·0
12·0
2·0
8·0

3·0

5·0

-

-

-

qs.

qs.

-

-­

-

qs.

qs.
qs.

qs.
qs.

1·0
qs.
qs.

-

QS.

this is added to the product which is then cooled with stirring to about 30°C
after perfuming at 4SOC. Alternatively the pigments can be pasted out with a
minimum quantity of water phase and this added after the emulsion has been
formed. Some form of milling may be required with the pigmented creams.
Formulation 37 is prepared by slowly adding the water phase at 9SOC to
the oil phase at 90°C whilst stirring. The product is perfumed at 4SOC and
cooled with stirring to about 30°C. Again milling may be rcquireu.

1


TAIlLE

18.

ALL-PURPOSE CREAM FORMULAE
X

I

38 21
O/W

%
Oil Phase
Mineral oil
Lanolin
Beeswax

Stearic acid
Petroleum jelly
Ozokcrite
Paramn wax
Super-Hartolan 60
Arlacel83
Arlacel85
Tween 8S
Waler Phase
Watcr
Glycerol
Sorbitol
Magnesium sulphatc
Perfume
Preservative

39 22
W/O

%

23·0
4·0
2·0
15·0

14·0
3'5
1·2
16·0

3'0

-

/

18,0
2·0
2·0
7·0
3·0
1· 5
-

1·0
1·0

41·8
12·2
qs.
qs.

-

58·0
3·8
0·2
0·3
qs.

40
W/O

,;

01

/0

-

.

-61·J
5·0
0·2
qs.
qs.

All three emulsions are formed by adding the water phase at 70 c C to
the oil phase at 70°C with stirring.
Formulation 38 is cooled to SO°C, perfumed and then pack~d.
Formulatio,ns 39 and 40 should be perfumed at 4SOC, cooled with stirring
to 35°C and homogenized.


TABLE

19.

MEN'S HAIRDRESSING FORMULAE

41 :w
OjW
parts
Oil Phase
Mineral oil
Bceswax
Stearic acid
Olcic acid
Petrolcum jelly
Cetyl alcohol
Lanolin
ArJaccl 83
Zinc stearate
:,yater Phase
Lime water saturated at 20n C
Water
Borax
Triethanolamine
Magnesium sulphate heptahydrate
Preservative
Perfume

42
WjO

%

33·0

3·0
0·5

37·9
1-5
0·6

30·0

4,FJ
WjO

%

43
WjO

-

-

I

0/
/u

37·5
2·0
-

-

-

3·0
5·0

7·5

1· 3

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

3·0

3·0
1·0

60·0
0·25
1·85

60·0
-

-

-

-

0-1
qs.

qs.
qs.

-.­

59·2

l·S
1·3
qs.
qs.

-

-

-

45·5
0·5

qs.
qs.

Formulation 41 is prepared by adding the oil phase at 65°C to the watcr
Ihase at 65°C, stirred and cooled to room temperature.
Formulation 42 is prepared by adding quickly the water phase at 20 e to
lie oil phase at 65-70°C with violent stirring. \Vhen homogeneous the cream •
an be packed at 30-35°C.
Formulation 43 is prepared by adding the water phase at 40°C to the oil
hase at 65°C wi th high speed stirring. The product should be cooled to
bout 35°C and tben packed.
Formulation 44 is prepared by slowly adding the water phase at 77°C to
1e oil phase at 75°C with moderate agitation. The product is pcrfumed at
SoC and cooled with stirring to about 25°C.
0


TAnLE

20.

BRUSHLESS SIIAVING CREAM FORMULAE

I


45

47 21

%
Oil }'/wse
Stearic acid
Cetyl alcohol
Mineral oil
Carbowax 1500
Tween 60

46

%

%

20·0
1·0
7-0

/7·0

113·0

-

1·0
5·0
-

-

•

5·0

Wafer Phase

Water
Triethanolamine
Potassium hydroxide
Borax
Sorbitol 70 %

TAlJLE

21.

70-6
1-4
-

-

76·35
0·65

.

-

SUNSCREEN INDEX or VARIOUS CHEMICALS

Compound

Ethyl p-dimethylaminobenzoatc
Ethyl p-aminobenzoate
Isobutyl p-aminobcnzoatc
Propyl p-aminobcnzoate
/I-Butyl p-aminobcnzoate
. ,B-Methyl umbelliferone
p-Aminobenzoic acid
Dehyd racetic acid
3-Carbethoxycoumarin
BCllzilidinc camphor
Ilcliotropinc
Sodium p-aminosalicy!Jtc
Methyl salicylate
Salicylamide
Mcthylcncdisalicylic acid
3-Carboxycoumarin
.

p-Hydroxyanthranilic acid
D igalloyl triolea te
a-Resorcvlic acid

Sunscrccn lndcx (S./.)

Optical dcnsity

at 3080 A

14-8
9·6
9·2
9·0
8·0
7·7
7·4
7·0
6'6
6·6
U·S
4·3
4·0
3·9
3·0
3'0
2'6
2·3

2·2

69·0
1·0

2·0
5·0

I



TABLE

22.

Lm ION

SUNSCREEN OtEAM AND

49 53
48 66
O/Vi I
W/O
greasy cream greasy cream

%
Oil Phase
Mineral oil
Ozokerite
Microcryst~l1ine

wax

Paramn wax
Petroleum jelly
Lanolin
Isopropyl myristate
Diethylene glycolmonostcaratc
G lyceryl monostcarate sclf­
emulsifying
Cetyl alcohol
Sesame oil
Stearic acid
Arlacel83
Ethyl p-diethylamino­
benzoate
Givtan f55

Water Phase
Water
Glycerol
Potassium hydroxide
Sodium hydroxide
Triethanolamine
Triethanolamine lamyl sulphate
Antioxidant
Preservative
Perfume

50 54

O/W
non-greasy
crea 111

-

-

-

-

%

-

10·0

2·0

-

-

4·0
2·0

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

16-0
1·0
10·0

5)55
O/W
lotion

%

%

9·0
2·0
1·0

5·0
2·0
3·0
10·0

FORMULAE

.

0·5

004

-

-

15·0

3·5

1·5

-

-

-

1·0

qs.

qs.

-

-

-

1·5

-

-

60·5
5·0

56·0
7·0

76·82
5·0
0·5
0·18

86·85

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

qs.
qs.

qs.
qs.

-

qs.
qs ..

qs.
qs.
qs.

1·0
0·75

Formulations 48 and 49 can be prepared by similar procedures as given
for emollient creams.
Formulation 50 can be prepared by methods given for vanishing creams.
Formulation 51 can be prepared by the method used for preparing O/W
hand lotion.

J


TAULE

23.

ANTIPEltSPlRANT-DEODORANT CREAM AND LOTION FORMULAE

52 21
Lotion

r·

fVafer Phase
Water
Aluminium chlorhydroxide complex
Germicide
Preservative
Perfume

Cream

%
Oil Phase
Stearic acid
Beeswax
Mineral oil
MYRJ 52 (Atlas)
Atlas G-21G2

53 21

%

8·0
2·0
3·5

14·0

2·0

1·0

5·0

5'0


58·5
22·0

51·0
22·0

qs.
qs.
qs.

qs.
qs.
qs.

G·O

Formulae 52 and 53 arc prepared by adding the water phase (less alu­
minium chlorhydroxide) at 85°C to the oil phase at 80°C. The emulsion is
stirred and cooled to 35°C at which temperature the aluminium chlorhy­
droxide is added and stirred until dissolved. The product is thcn perfumcd
and packed.

I


"

,.,"

","?,..?

LNguyen ]i~u tan trang

t"C

~

-

QUY TRINH PHOI CHE SAN PHAM D~NG NHU

I

I

Nguyen l' ~u tan trang

? .~
.

Q
I .1

.

I

I

I

j Tltdng

I Tu'ong

1,-------- - - T - - + - - '_ _ I

..

I

Phoi trOn l~O kern

C;'l c~ /1'----__

T_rQ_n_Phl,l gia

~/

~

/

~

-

De 6n djn'

J

K~