cutting machines in apparel production

CUTTING MACHINE
Different Types of Fabric Cutting Machine:
According to the operating process, the Cutting Machine can be classified into three types. Such asManual
Semi- Automatic
Automatic / Computerized

Manual Cutting Machine
Hand Scissors.

Semi-Automatic Cutting Machine

Computerized Cutting Machine

Straight knife of Cutting M/c.

Knife Cutting Machine.

Round Knife Cutting Machine.

Laser Cutting Machine.

Band Knife Cutting Machine.

Water Jet Cutting Machine.

Die Cutting Machine.

Air jet Cutting Machine.

Notcher Machine.

Ultrasonic Cutting Machine. 

Drill Machine.

Plasma Torch cutting Machine


STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE
STRUCTURE OF STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING
MACHINE:

The Straight knife cutting machine consists of
a;

1. base plate,
2. an upright stand to hold the vertical blade,
3. motor,
4. a handle for moving assembly,
5. a sharpening device and
6. a handle to transfer the whole assembly from
one place to another.


STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE
KINDS OF POWER ARE REQUIRED TO OPERATE A STRAIGHT
KNIFE.

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Motor power drives the reciprocating blade

and

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operator power drives the knife through the
lay.
CUTTING MACHINE PARTS INVOLVED IN CUTTING

1. Knife/Blade

5. Base plate

2. Sharpener

6. Moving handle

3. Motor

7. Transport handle

4. Fabric presser


STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE

STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE

Blade
Knife height is 10 cm to 33 cm. Knife stroke is 2.5 cm to 4.5 cm.
Sharpener

It is small band with Grinder/sharpening material on it and its main function is to
sharpen the blade.
Motor
Motor r.p.m. is 3000 to 4000 and its main function is to move blade up and down and
also slightly in front direction to create a stroke on fabric.
Knife cut the fabric very fast due to high speed of motor. That increases the risk of
fabric damage.


STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE

STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE

Fabric presser
It is a device in the machine which hold the layers of the fabric tight so than it will
easy for cutter to cut the fabric.
Base plate
Wheels are under the base plate to move the machine smoothly.
Machine weight is around 12-15 kg.
Moving handle
This handle is to hold the machine as well to move in
predefined direction
Transport handle


STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE
ADVANTAGES OF STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE

•Comparatively cheap & and can be cut many plies at a time
•Higher lay of height can be cut very easily.

•Round corners can be cut more precisely than even round knife.
•Production speed is very good.
•Garments components can be directly separated from fabric lay.


STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE
DISADVANTAGES OF STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE

High speed of the machine causes high risk of damage.

Faulty knife could damage fabric layer.

Motor weight creates knife deflection which may be creates faulty pieces.

Risk is high for physical damage of operator.

Knife required to replace.


ROUND KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE


ROUND KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE


ROUND KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE


ROUND KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE
Features of Round Knife Cutting Machine:

• It contains a round but slightly octagonal type knife with sharp edge.
• The other main parts of this machine are base plate, electric motor, handle & knife
guard.

• Knife diameter varies from 6-20 cm.
• Manual grinder is used.
• Motor r.p.m. is 800-1600.It depends on machine.
• A handle for the cutter to direct the knife.
• Easy to handle & movement due to low weight.
• Knife is lubricating manually.
• Base plate gives support for fabric.
• Maximum 40% of the knife diameter can be used for fabric lay


Round knife cutting machine

ROUND KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE

Advantage of Round Knife Cutting Machine:

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Suitable for cutting single ply as well as multilayer (say 20-30layers).
Easy to handle & operate.

Suitable for small scale cutting.
Suitable for gentle curve line cutting.
To cut the larger part of the garments.
With a same r.p.m. its efficiency is 10 times greater than the straight
knife.


Round knife cutting machine

ROUND KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE
Disadvantage of Round Knife Cutting Machine:

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Very low r.p.m. & knife height.
Manual grinder is used.
Low productivity since few number of lay can be cut.
Difficult to cut small components & high curve line.
Not suitable for large production.
Lubrication is manually done.

Uses/Application of Round Knife Cutting Machine:
It’s useful for gentle curve line cutting, big parts cutting, cutting out fabric block from
lay & small scale cutting. It’s normally use for small production.

NOTCHER CUTTING MACHINE

Hand Notcher

Notcher machine


Notcher cutting machine

NOTCHER CUTTING MACHINE

Features of Notcher Machine:

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A knife notcher is an upright, cylindrical device which cuts the side of a
block to a predetermined distance.

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Both straight notches and V notches are available.
An alternative machine, the hot notcher, incorporates a heating
element in order that the blade may slightly scorch the fibers adjacent
to the notch in order to prevent it fraying and disappearing.

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This cannot be used with thermoplastic fibers or certain unlined

garments.


NOTCHER CUTTING MACHINE
Dis-advantages of Notcher Machine:

• Only use to make notch to the fabric.
• Thermoplastic fiber can’t cut by this machine.
• The use of machine is limited.
Advantages of Notcher Machine:
It is a special type of cutting machine & use in special case.
Useful to cut small notch to the fabric.
It is most useful to make consistency in notching.

Uses/Application of Notcher Machine: 
To make the notch mark on the fabric


BAND KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE


BAND KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE

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Band Knife cutting machine is look like a wood cutter machine.

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Band knife is used for precision cutting small parts of garment.

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This band knife cutting machine has lower noise, less temperature up, high
power, less vibration and auto sharpening device.


BAND KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE
Main Features;

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This machine worked as saw mill technique.
Not possible to cut fabric directly from lay.
Block pieces of fabric required in bundle from to cut by this machine.
Blade moving vertically through a flat working table.
Machine remains stationery and fabric is moveable.
It comprises a series of three or more pulleys, which provide the continuous rotating motion of the
knife.

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An endless knife is used here.

Knife is usually narrower than on a straight knife.
A large size of table is used to support the fabric & for cutting.


BAND KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE
Main Features;

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Air blower blows the air to minimize the weight of fabric.
Balls in air blower help to move the fabric in different direction.
Automatic grinder is used.
In this method machine is stationary but fabric is movable.
High speed r.p.m. motor is used.
Required a large space for it.
This is like a saw mill cutter.
Knife life time depends on fabric type & uses of machine.


BAND KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE
Advantages of Band Knife Cutting Machine:

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Suitable for any types of line
Very large productivity for limited product
Such as collars, cuff, placket etc.
Automatic grinder grind the knife instantly
Air blower helps to reduce the fabric weight which increases smooth movement of fabric.
Possible to cut 900 angle of the lay.
Intensity of accident is low.

Disadvantages of Band Knife Cutting Machine:

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Not suitable for large component due to the length of the table.
Work load is high as machine is stationary & fabric is movable.
Running cost is higher, Fabric wastage is high.
Required fix space.

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Not possible to cut fabric directly.

DRILL CUTTING MACHINE


DRILL CUTTING MACHINE

Features of Drill Machine:

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The drill mounting includes a motor, a base plate with a hole to allow the drill to pass through, and a spirit level to
ensure that the base is horizontal and hence the drill vertical.

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The momentum of drill is completed at 90 ̊ angle in the fabric lay by the level of sprit.
On many fabrics the drill is used cold and the hole remains visible until the sewing operator comes to use it.
For tightly woven fabric the hole is permanent for a long time.
On looser weave fabrics, where the hole may close up, a hot drill is used, which will slightly scorch or fuse the edges of
the hole to make it permanent for a long time.

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A hypodermic (or dye spot) drill may also be used which leaves a small deposit of paint on ply of fabric to find the mark
place easily.

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All drill holes must eventually be concealed by the construction of the garments.


DRILL CUTTING MACHINE
Advantage of Drill Machine:

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This machine is needed to mark on the end of components of dresses specially for setting pocket, dart
& so on.

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It can make the hole permanently for a long.

Dis-advantage of Drill Machine:

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The use of machine is limited.

Uses/Application of Drill Machine:

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It is used to make hole on the fabric for button attaching & to make reference mark for attaching
different small components on the garments.

WATER JET CUTTING MACHINE

A water jet cutter, also known as a waterjet, is a
tool capable of slicing into metal or other
materials (such as granite) using a jet of water at
high velocity and pressure, or a mixture of water
and an abrasive substance. The process is
essentially the same as water erosion found in
nature but greatly accelerated and concentrated.