Material Quality Manual

Material Quality Manual
This manual is provided to understand Fabric inspection process and requirements to
deliver the highest possible quality as well as report all test results as per Customer
requirements.
Although this manual describes Matrix Sourcing quality requirements and we also
expects its partner suppliers to develop a positive culture of quality. This culture must
begin with management commitment to prevention-based and continuous
improvement- based quality systems including:
Allocating appropriate resources to ensure quality systems are effective
Encouraging active participation of all workers in improvement efforts
Ensuring that processes are stable, capable, and centered through the application of
statistical data analysis techniques
Documenting systems, processes, procedures, etc. as necessary to maintain effective
operations
Quality Mission Statement
“Create consumer loyalty and lead brand integrity through an integrated Quality
Strategy.”
Matrix Sourcing Quality philosophy is based on the following principles:
Establish clear, consumer-focused requirements Plan for Defect-Free performance
Quality happens within every Process (each supplier, department, & individual owns
quality)
Ensure the Process is capable of meeting the Customer requirements Control the
Process
Continually reduce Variation and factory Defective Rate
Prevention System Definitions:
Design Qualification
Systems and procedures where Matrix’s product engineering team works with
customer design/development groups to help identify and prevent failure modes in
product design.
Supplier Qualification
Process of evaluating and approving suppliers to ensure they are capable of achieving

Matrix Sourcing requirements, and include a review of suppliers’ quality
manufacturing and management systems against our requirements and world-class
benchmarks.
Materials Qualification
Process of testing, evaluating and approving raw material to ensure that the
manufacturing process is capable of producing material that always meets World class
customer specifications
Product Qualification
Process of evaluating and approving finished goods to ensure that the manufacturing
process is capable of producing product that always meet specifications.
Metrics & Strategic Reporting
Process of collecting vendor product quality performance data to track performance
and set priorities for corrective action.
Greige Fabric Quality Requirements
Introduction:
We will provide a guideline to the factory for evaluating, grading and separating the
incoming quality of fabric to be used for Matrix Sourcing Clients. This is important for
the vendors to note on what are the expectations for incoming fabric quality. This
process also assists factories in detecting defects and preventing substandard fabric.
We have described widely recognized inspection procedure as a training framework
for inspectors. Our ultimate goal is to promote communication and align procedures
between the factory and the vendor to resolve quality problems.
Inspection Requirements
Area
The inspection area should be:
Open, clean and dry
Well lit
Equipment
Inspection Frame: The frame should be equipped with a variable speed drive, a yard
(or meter) counter, and an undercarriage light to see through the construction and an

overhead light to inspect the face of the fabric.
Inspection Speed: The frame should be capable of running up to 30 yards per minute
(27 meters per minute) and should have both forward and reverse controls.
Viewing Distance: The inspection should be performed from an observation distance
of 2 to 4 feet (60 to 120 centimeters) so as to get full vision of the fabric width.
Lighting: Overhead Customer required lighting is recommended for the inspection.
The surface illumination level should be a minimum of 1075 lux (100 foot candles).
Calibration and Maintenance
Inspection frame should be included in vendor’s periodic maintenance plan.
All components of equipment which can output a quantifiably value needs to be
calibrated annually e.g. Speed drive/ Counter/ Weight (if scales available on
frame)
Light Box and Color Room
Each Vendor should have an International light box equipped with:
Light Source Light Type
Primary
Ligh
t D 65 (6500K) Average North
Source Sky Daylight
Secondary
Ligh
t CWF (4150K)
Source
Tertiary
Ligh
t
A (2856 K) Tungsten
Source
The Light box must be in a closed conditioned room with no interference from outside
light and it must be calibrated from time to time as recommended by its manufacturer.

The walls of the room should be painted neutral gray.
Approved Item Swatch
The vendor is required to use the Matrix Sourcing approved Fabric swatch in
development stage as a quality reference sample for hand-feel/ Color and aesthetics
verifications in bulk production.
This approved item swatch must be properly stored for use in quality comparison.
Keep a clean sample folder with appropriate information such as vendor name, item
number, color name, date approved, Approved test report, Production SPEC, and any
other relevant information.
Inspection Procedure / Execution
Matrix Sourcing expects the vendor to inspect 100% of all outgoing shipments,
identify, label and records defects and ship only first quality materials.
The vendor should be familiar with Matrix Sourcing inspection procedures and
standards to ensure that vendor’s internal inspection is capable of at least meeting or
better exceeding Matrix Sourcing expectations.
Color and Aesthetics
Cut a head-middle-end sample across the width of the fabric, preferably about 2 yards
inside of each dye-lot. This sample will be used for color and aesthetic verification to
ensure lot to lot, head to end fabric consistency.
Color Evaluation
1. Color Standard: Check the head-middle-end sample in the light box against the
Customer color standard and/or Matrix Sourcing approved lab-dip under primary
& secondary light source. This process should be done once for each color
inspected.
2. Shading within the roll: Check for shading at the beginning, in the middle and
at the end of each roll inspected, using the head-middle-end sample for
comparison.
Side to center
Side to side
End to end

3. Color Continuity Card: Check for color consistency between the dye-lots. Cut a
small sample (about 2 x 2 inches or 5 x 5 centimeters) from the left side, the
center and the right side of the head-middle-end sample of each inspected dye-lot
and attach to the color continuity card. Ensure that cards are labeled. Check the
samples against the Customer color standard &/or Matrix Sourcing approved lab-
dip. Note any significant variation of shade from roll to roll.
Aesthetics Evaluation
Inspect overall hand-feel and appearance against customer approved item swatch in
development stage for cleanliness, texture, recovery, drape, resilience, wrinkling, etc.
If the aesthetics does not match the sample, Vendor will reprocess that yards or will
submit to Matrix/ Customer for approval.
It is the vendor’s responsibility to ensure that the reference sample provided to the
factory is the original. This sample will be used by the factory for, hand-feel and
aesthetics verification
The reference Sample size is 12 x 12 inches (30 x 30 centimeters) cut out from the
approved batch. This reference sample must be properly stored for use in quality
comparison. Keep a clean sample folder with appropriate information such as vendor
name, item number, color name/code, date, batch number, and any other relevant
information.
Visual Inspection
Once the color and aesthetics have been checked and approved, begin the visual
inspection for defects. Defects which are not desirable and are clearly detectable on the
inspection frame will be assigned points as shown in the Four Point Table. The Four
Point system will be applied to all fabrics, i.e. woven, circular knit and warp knit.
Always inspect the side which will be used as the face in the finished garment. Mount
the roll on the inspection frame with the face side up.
Fabric Width
Measure the fabric width at the beginning, in the middle, and at the end of every roll. If
a variation in fabric width is found, the vendor will contact Matrix Sourcing to
determine if the fabric is usable and if a replacement is necessary. At this point, the

inspector should also check the condition of the selvedges. The selvedges should as per
customer requirement, lay flat, be free of tension, and should not have a tendency to
curl.
Roll Length
Measure and record the length of each roll inspected.
Inspection for Defects
The Vendor should train and/or conduct internal certification for the inspectors
according to this Manual and Matrix Sourcing requirements. The Vendor inspectors
should inspect each material type based on Four Point System before shipped.
~ Four Point System ~
A widely recognized inspection method frequently used in the textile industry. It is a
technique issued by the American Society for Testing & Materials with reference to
the designation ASTM D5 430-93
Start the frame and inspect for defects. Run the frame at 20 ± 5 yards per minute (18 ±
5 meters per minute). If a defect is observed:
1. Faults are classified and scored with penalty points of 1, 2, 3 and 4, according to
their size and significance. Each defect should be counted as a separate defect even
if the nature is the same and then based on the points allocated to each defect, total
points should be calculated.
~ Four Point Table ~
Vertical
Defects
(along the
length)
Horizontal
Defects
(along the
width)
Length Points Length Points
0.1 to 3.0 in

(0.1 to 1
0.1 to 3.0
in (0.1 to
8.0 1
8.0 cm) cm)
3.1 to 6.0 in
(8.1 to 2
3.1 to 6.0
in (8.1 to 2
15.0 cm)
15.0 cm)
6.1 to 9.0 in
(15.1 to 3
6.1 to 9.0
in (15.1 to 3
23.0 cm)
23.0 cm)
9.1 to 36.0
in (23.1 to
9.1 to full
width
(above
92.0 cm) 4 23.1 cm) 4
Note:
A maximum of 4 points may be assigned to any one linear yard), regardless of
the number or size of the individual defects.
For a continuous lengthwise running defect, 4 points and 1 defect will be
assigned to each linear yard where the defect exceeds 9 inches (23 centimeters).
Example: Short End/ barre effect on the full roll in 100linear yards: 400 points should
be assigned with 100 defects

2. Mark the defect at the selvedge and/or at the defect.
3. Record the defect and the assigned points on the inspection worksheet.
4. Inspection Results
Complete the worksheet and calculate the total points of each inspected roll and the
total of the inspected linear yards/meters. With this information use the appropriate
formula below to calculate the Average Points (per 100 linear yards or linear meters).
Points/100 yd2 =
Total Points of inspected roll x 36
X
100
Total Inspected Yards x Fabric Width in
inches
5. Evaluation Guideline
Factory will evaluate a vendor’s quality performance based on the point count system,
using the following guideline:
Fabric Type
Allowable Points per 100 linear
yards
Woven Fabric 20
Warp Knit Fabric 20
Knit Fabrics (Open width Or
Tubular) 20
Note: This criterion is subject to change at Matrix Sourcing/Customer
discretion.
D.2 Accept / Reject Procedure
Vendor should not ship any roll or shipment with defect points exceed the above
evaluation guideline. The factory will determine how the shipment can best meet
Matrix Sourcing/ Customer standards.
However, vendor might communicate with Matrix Sourcing prior to the shipment if
the average points per 100 linear yards (90 linear meters) of any roll shows a higher

number than allowed on the Matrix Sourcing evaluation guideline above. In this case,
the Matrix Sourcing & Customer may decide to use a shipment or the roll even if the
average points per 100 linear yards (90 linear meters) shows a higher number than
allowed.
D.3 Reporting
The inspection is intended to determine the shipment quality and to capture
information for quality performance evaluation of the vendor. One inspection report
should be completed for each Item / color inspected and send a copy of the Inspection
Report to garment factory prior to or with shipment.
Inspection Report information containing inspection date / shipped date / season year /
buy month / garment factory / order number / item number / batch number / dye lot
number / color code and color name / inspection points / inspection results / yardages /
weight / width … etc. should be clearly visible on documentation with English
language at least. Records should be kept at least 2 years and available to Matrix/
customer upon request.
We expects all material suppliers to follow the same guidelines to ensure quality
product delivered to the factories,
In next section, we will continue the classification and description on fabric defects.
C. Fabric Defect Classifications
Defect Classifications for Fabric
Defect Description
Slub , Uneven Yarn
(thick & Thick uneven spot(s) in the fabric caused by lint or small
thin) lengths of yarn adhering to it
Barré Flaw in fabric consisting of textured or color bars in the
direction of warp or filing which can be caused by
imperfection in the yarn or in the construction or
finishing of the fabric.
Yarn contamination / Fly Foreign fibers or soil, woven or knitted in the fabric.
Dead cotton

Damaged cotton by the weather conditions, over or
under
mature cotton, which is difficult to process, leaving
behind
white or black spots.
Missing Line Filling yarn broken when weaving / the harness misdraw
results in two ends weaving as one, caused by one end of
yarn missing from feed and machine continue to run.
Holes Missing yarn, leaving behind a space, caused by broken
needle
Reed mark Running lines in the warp direction, caused by bent reed
wire causing warp ends to be held apart.
Streaks Dark of light uneven lines, caused by faulty processing
Stop marks
Lines in the weft direction, caused when machine
stopped ,
the yarn elongates the tension results in making across
the
width
Knots Uneven raised knot, two yarn ends are tied together
Miss weave/miss-knit
pattern Pattern that different to the other area/ stitches failed to
form due to a malfunctioning needle or jack
Puckered Selvage Uneven surface, caused by bent needle forming distorted
stitches , usually a vertical line
Selvage Torn
"run" along the needle line or a void caused by a missing
warp yarn
Pilling Fiber gathering in the form of a bead on the surface as a
result of friction caused by abrasion with other surface

caused by yarn quality
Shading (selvage to
selvage)
A change in shade either abrupt or gradual, caused by
poor
processing
Dye Streaks Uneven steaks occurred during dyeing or finishing
Color smear Uneven color application as the result of color being
smeared during printing
Crease Streak
Uneven marks showing light or dark lines as a results
from
creased fabric passing through squeeze rollers in dyeing
process
Slippage Uneven blotch marks caused due to improper dyeing
process
Bowing
Woven filling yarns lie in an arc across fabric width; in
knits
the course lines lie in an arch across width of goods.
Skewing/Bias
Condition where filling yarns are not square with warp
yarns on woven fabrics or where courses are not square
with walse lines on knits
Defect Description
Crease
marks/Wrinkles/Fold
appears where creases are caused by fabric
folds under
Marks pressure in the finishing process

Pin holes
Holes along selvage caused by pins holding
fabric while it
processes through tender frame. – Major, if
pin holes
extend into body of fabric far enough to be
visible in the
finished product
Snagging
A break, tear or pull in the fabric, caused by a
pulled thread
in the fabric/yarn pulled out from the fabric
Abrasion Mark Improper scratch during finishing
Dirt/Soil/stain Fabric got dirty spots when finishing
Oil Spots / grease spots An oil spot on the fabric
Water Spots / Water
marks
Light marks, usually caused by wet fabric
being allowed to
remain too long before drying; color migrates
leaving
blotchy spots.
Yellowing of fabric
This is a phenomenon which causes light
colored fabric to
yellow over time
Printer Machine stop
Dye smudged along width of fabric as a
result of stop the
printing machine stopping

Print Out of register
Print is out of fit, caused by print rollers not
being
synchronized properly; results in various
colors of the
design not printed in proper position
Miss print
Missing color in the pattern caused by color
feeding
stoppage or faulty printing
D: Summary of Production Fabric Testing & Inspection
Material Quality Process is the process developed to measure vendor
performance. In this process, both vendors and factories are required to take
steps to ensure first quality fabric reaches the cutting table to manufacture
ultimate garment products. However to emphasize the importance and
responsibilities, we have developed a summary page as described below:
II. Inspection Procedures
a. Inspection Sample
must sample a minimum of 10% or 1 Roll, whichever is greater, of
every incoming shipment by color
b. Check color
make Color continuity card between rolls
inspected check against color standard
check against vendor’s reference cutting and Spectrophotometer
reading
c. Aesthetics
check hand feel
check fabric appearance of face side
d. Visual Inspection
measure fabric width & length

inspection for Defects by using Four Point System
e. Fill out Inspection worksheet
III. Inspection Results
a. Evaluation guideline:
Allowable Points per 100 yards (90 meters): 10 points for all fabric
types
b. Result & Reporting
Input Accept, Reject or Standard Exception result into MIS
(Material Inspection System)
IV. Record keeping (at least two years)
a. Documents provided by Vendor:
Seasonal Reference Sample
Vendor Internal Inspection Report
Vendor Internal Physical Test Report
Reference cutting of each dye lot & Spectrophotometer Reading
Vendor Letter for “Limited Approved” status and “Spectrophotometer
non-readable values
b. Documents prepared by factory:
Color continuality card between rolls inspected Inspection Worksheet