Tài liệu về trải và cắt vải trong ngành may - Fabric spreading and cutting machines

Fabric Spreading and Cutting Machines


Garment Manufacturing Process


Marker and Marker planning
Marker:

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It is a long thin paper which contains all necessary pattern pieces for
different sizes for a particular style of garments

The length also depends on-

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Number of garments to be produced from a spread lay
Length of cutting table
Production planning etc.

Purpose of Marker Making

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For optimum utilization of fabric
Reduction of fabric wastage
Speeding up the production process
Get maximum number of pattern pieces from one lay of fabric


Spreading

• Spreading – The process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables in preparation for cutting each piece of garment
• Types of Fabric spreading:
i. Flat Spreading
ii. Stepped Spreading

• Precautions needed while spreading fabric:
i. Alignment of plies
ii. Elimination of fabric defects/flaws
iii. Correct ply direction
iv. Correct ply tension
v. Fabrics must be flat and free from any crinkle & crease


Spreading related Equipment

• Tables
- Normal table
- Vacuum table

Pinned Table

- Conveyor table

Vacuum Table

- Pinned table

• Fabric Loaders
• Fabric weights/Clamps/Pins

Fabric Weights

Fabric clamps

Fabric Roll Loader


Spreading- Methods

Spreading

Machine Assisted

Manual Spreading

Spreading

Semi-Automatic

Fully Automatic


Manual Spreading Machines

Operating procedure:

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Fabric is carefully pulled out with help of hands
Then, fabric is spread and cut to appropriate requirements
Process is continued to form layers

Advantages:

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Easy to operate
Low investment
Suitable for small scale garment industries

Limitations:

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Speed limitation
Skilled labor required to operate
Chances of improper selvedge alignment

Small roll size


Semi-Automatic Spreading Machines
Operating Procedure:

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Same as Manual Spreader
Movement along the table and fabric pulling can be controlled by buttons

Advantages:

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Fast and economical
Proper selvedge alignment
Ease to operate with electronic clutch

Limitations:

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Fabric roll loading, cutting is still manual
Not suitable for large scale manufacturing houses

Small roll size


Fully Automatic Spreading Machines
Features:

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Automatic loading/unloading device for fabric rolls
Automatic roll turning arrangement for face to back lay
Automatic leveling device for fabric edge alignment.
Automatic cutting device at the end of a run
Automatic tensioning device to control fabric tension
Automatic lay height sensing elevator
Programmable lay length, ply height and step-laying
Spreading seeds up to 140 m/min


Cutting

• Cutting – It is the process which cut out the pattern pieces from specified fabric for making garments
• Types of Fabric cutting machines:
i. Manual, e.g. scissors, cutters

ii. Semi-automatic, e.g. Round knife cutter, band knife cutter, etc.
iii. Fully computerized, e.g. Laser, water jet, etc.

• Precautions needed while spreading fabric:
i. Safety first, gloves, eye covers, clothing etc.
ii. Stability of fabric layers
iii. Care of cutting blades and machine
iv. Selecting correct type of cutting equipment for a cut
v. Precautions for heating of blades


Manual Cutting Equipment
Scissors
Are normally used when cutting only single or double plies
Laser guided scissors

Advantages:

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Almost all types of cloths are cut by scissors
Very cheap

Electric Scissors

Limitations and disadvantages:

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Cannot be used for mass production
Cannot cut more than 2-3 piles of fabrics
Low speed
Impossible to work continuously for long hours
Decorative Edge scissors


Semi-Automatic Cutting Equipment

Straight knife

Round knife

Advantages

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Comparatively cheap
Production speed is very good
Rough work can be easily done by hands

Band knife

Notcher machine

Disadvantages

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Faulty knife could damage fabric layer
Knife required to change
Weight of the motor creates knife deflection which may be creates faulty pieces


Fully-Automatic Cutting Equipment

Computerized cutting machine

Advantages

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Cutting defects are less
Less labor cost
Suitable for very large scale of production
No need of marker paper

Water-jet fabric cutting

Laser cutting machine

Plasma cutting machine

Disadvantages

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Very expensive machines
Very high on maintenance
Not suitable for cutting multi level fabric (water-jet, laser)
Not suitable for synthetic fabric(laser cutting)


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