The rough guide to cina

INSIDE THIS BOOK
INTRODUCTION What to see, what not to miss, itineraries and more – everything
you need to get started
BASICS Pre-departure tips and practical information
THE GUIDE Comprehensive, in-depth guide to the country, with area highlights
and full-colour maps throughout
CONTEXTS History, beliefs, Chinese medicine, art, music, film and books plus a
useful language section
We’ve flagged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a
special restaurant – throughout the Guide with the ★ symbol

China chapters
0

600
kilometres

RUSSIA

KAZAKHSTAN

MONGOLIA

3

KYRGYZSTAN

SEA OF

NORTH JAPAN

KOREA

1

13

SOUTH
KOREA

2
4

INDIA

12

PA
L

MYANMAR
(BURMA)

BANGLADESH
THAILAND

VIETNAM
LAOS

BAY OF
BENGAL

6 Shanghai and around
7 The Yangzi basin
8 Fujian, Guangdong and Hainan
Island
9 Hong Kong and Macau

Make the Most of Your Time on Earth at roughguides.com
This eighth edition published June 2017

EAST
CHINA
SEA

8

10

11

1 Beijing and around
2 Hebei and Tianjin
3 Dongbei
4 The Yellow River
5 The eastern seaboard

5

7

BHUTAN

N

JAPAN

6

14

NE

YELLOW
SEA

TAIWAN

9

SOUTH CHINA
SEA

PHILIPPINES

G Guangxi and Guizhou
H Yunnan
I Sichuan and Chongqing
J The Northwest
K Tibet

THE ROUGH GUIDE TO

CHINA
This eighth edition updated by

Thomas Bird, Stuart Butler, Joanna James,
David Leffman, Simon Lewis, Mark South,
Charles Young and Martin Zatko



INTRODUCTION

Contents
INTRODUCTION

4

Where to go

5

When to go

12

Author picks

13

Things not to miss

14

Itineraries

28

BASICS

30

Getting there

31

The media

48

Getting around

35

Festivals

49

Accommodation

40

Shopping

50

Eating and drinking

42

Sports and outdoor activities

51

Health

45

Travelling with children

51

Culture and etiquette

47

Travel essentials

51

60

8

Fujian, Guangdong and Hainan Island 458
Hong Kong and Macau

THE GUIDE
1

Beijing and around

60

2

Hebei and Tianjin

130

9

3

Dongbei

156

10 Guangxi and Guizhou

540
604

4

The Yellow River

190

11 Yunnan

656

5

The eastern seaboard

276

12 Sichuan and Chongqing

724

6

Shanghai and around

344

13 The Northwest

786

7

The Yangzi basin

392

14 Tibet

866

CONTEXTS

922

History

923

Film

959

Chinese beliefs

942

Books

964

Traditional Chinese Medicine

947

Chinese

970

Art

949

Glossary

984

Music

954

SMALL PRINT & INDEX

OPPOSITE ZHANGJIAJIE PREVIOUS PAGE GUIYANG

986

3


4

INTRODUCTION

Introduction to

China

China is a nation on the march. As it accelerates away from its
preindustrial cocoon at a rate unmatched in human history, huge
new cities with cutting-edge architecture continue to spring up,
connected by an ever-expanding high-speed rail network. But look
closer and you’ll see China’s splendidly diverse geographic, ethnic,
culinary and social make-up is not lost; modernity conceals a civilization
that has remained intact, continually recycling itself, for over four
millennia. Chinese script was perfected during the Han dynasty
(220 BC–220 AD), and the stone lions that stand sentinel outside
skyscrapers first appeared as temple guardians over three thousand
years ago. Indeed, it is the contrast between change and continuity that
make modern China so fascinating.
The first thing that strikes visitors to this country is the extraordinary density of its
population. In much of eastern, central and southern China, villages, towns and cities
seem to sprawl endlessly into one another along the grey arteries of busy expressways.
Move to the far south or west, however, and the population thins out as it begins to
vary; large areas are inhabited not by the “Chinese”, but by scores of distinct ethnic
minorities, ranging from animist hill tribes to urban Muslims. Here, the landscape
begins to dominate: green paddy fields and misty hilltops in the southwest, the

scorched, epic vistas of the old Silk Road in the northwest, and the magisterial
mountains of Tibet.
Although abundant buses, flights and high-speed trains have made getting around
China the easiest it has ever been, to get under the skin of this country is still no simple
matter. The main tourist highlights – the Great Wall, the Forbidden City, the Terracotta
Army and the Yangzi gorges – are relatively few considering the vast size of the country,
and much of China’s historic architecture has been deliberately destroyed in the rush to
modernize. Added to this are the frustrations of travelling in a land where few people
ABOVE THE GREAT WALL OPPOSITE FROM TOP GIANT PANDAS, SICHUAN; HONG KONG BY NIGHT


speak English, the writing system is alien
and foreigners are sometimes viewed as
exotic objects of intense curiosity – though
overall you’ll find that Chinese people,
despite a reputation for curtness, are
generally hospitable and friendly.

Where to go
As China has opened up in recent years,
so the emphasis on tourism has changed.
Many well-known cities and sights have
become so developed that their charm
has vanished, while in remoter regions
– particularly Tibet, Yunnan and the
Northwest – previously restricted or
“undiscovered” places have become newly
accessible. The following outline is a
selection of both “classic” China sights
and less-known attractions, which should

come in handy when planning a
schedule.
Inevitably, Beijing is on everyone’s
itinerary, and the Great Wall and the
splendour of the Forbidden City are
certainly not to be missed; the capital
also offers some of the country’s best
food and nightlife. Chengde, too, just
north of Beijing, has some stunning
imperial buildings, constructed by
emperors when this was their favoured
retreat for the summer.
South of the capital, the Yellow River
valley is the cradle of Chinese civilization,
where remnants of the dynastic age lie
scattered in a unique landscape of loess
terraces. The cave temples at Datong and
Luoyang are magnificent, with huge
Buddhist sculptures staring out impassively
across their now industrialized settings.
Of the historic capitals, Xi’an is the most
obvious destination, where the celebrated


0

0

600 600
kilometres

kilometres

RUSSIA
RUSSIA

KAZAKHSTAN
KAZAKHSTAN

NN

LakeLake
Balkhash
Balkhash

AltayAltay

A

BISHKEK
BISHKEK

Ürümqi
Ürümqi

KYRGYZSTAN
KYRGYZSTAN
Torugart
Torugart
PassPass

S S
A I AN I N
U ON UT N T
O
T I TA IN A NS H S A HN A NM M

Turpan
Turpan

KorlaKorla

P A M I R
P A M I R

Kashgar
Kashgar

MONGOLIA
MONGOLIA

S
I N S
TA I N
N
U TA
O
M UN
O
I
A M

T
L AI
T
L

Yining
Yining

Almaty
Almaty

A

HamiHami

XINJIANG
XINJIANG

IN
ED
T A N ISPUT
U N A I D PUTED
M O N T
S
DI
U
M O

T AT A
K L KA L A

M AMK AA KN A ND E DS EE SR ET R T

Khunjerab
Khunjerab
PassPass

S

Mogao
Mogao
Caves
Caves

Dunhuang
Dunhuang
Jiayuguan
Jiayuguan

Khotan
Khotan
N SN S
T A TI A I
K U KNU L NU LNU NM OMU ON U N

S

Golmud
Golmud

BOU

BOU

NDA

NDA

RY

RY

QINGHAI
QINGHAI

DI

SP

DI

SP

TIBET
TIBET

YangYzai ngzi

RY

RY

La La
nc nc
an an

Shigatse
S Shigatse

JILINJILIN

CHONGQING
CHONGQING
SHI SHI

LIAONING
LIAONING

FUJIAN
FUJIAN

MACAU
MACAU

GANSU
GANSU

NINGXIA
NINGXIA

GUANGDONG

GUANGDONG
GUANGXI
GUANGXI

QINGHAI
QINGHAI

GUIZHOU
GUIZHOU

SHAANXI
SHAANXI
SHANDONG
SHANDONG

HEBEI
HEBEI

SHANGHAI
SHANGHAI
SHI SHI

HEILONGJIANG
HEILONGJIANG

SHANXI
SHANXI

HENAN
HENAN

SICHUAN
SICHUAN

HONG
HONG
KONG
KONG

TIANJIN
TIANJIN
SHI SHI
(TJS)(TJS)

HUBEI
HUBEI

TIBET
TIBET

HUNAN
HUNAN

XINJIANG
XINJIANG

INNER
INNER
MONGOLIA
MONGOLIA

YUNNAN
YUNNAN

JIANGSU
JIANGSU

ZHEJIANG
ZHEJIANG

THIMPHU
THIMPHU

Nu Nu
R iv R iv
er er

SICHUAN
SICHUAN

li)
we
(Sh eli)
w
(S h

JIANGXI
JIANGXI

BEIJING

BEIJING
SHI SHI
(BJS)(BJS)

MountMount
EverestEverest

Lhasa
Lhasa

)
ong
(Mek )
iver
ong
(Mek
iver

AS

gR

gR

A
Y Y
A

KATHMANDU
KATHMANDU

ANHUI
ANHUI

low

DA

DA

H

Zhangmu
Zhangmu
I NI D
N IDAI A

low

r
ve
r
ve

KailashKailash

H
I I
M M
A A

L L
A
NEPAL
NEPAL

Ye Ye
l
l
Riv Riv
er er

Ri

Ali AliMountMount

Ri

UTED BOUN

UTED BOUN

DELHI
DELHI

Xining
Xinin
Qinghai
Qinghai
LakeLake

DISPUTED
DISPUTED
BOUNDARY
BOUNDARY

BHUTAN
BHUTAN

Tiger
Tiger
Leaping
Leaping
Gorge
Gorge

Lijiang
Lijiang
BANGLADESH
BANGLADESH

Xiaguan
Xiaguan

Kunming
Kunming

DHAKA
DHAKA

XISHUANGBANNA

XISHUANGBANNA

Jinghong
Jinghong
M YMAYNAM
NAMRA R
( B (UBRUM
RAM) A )

BAYBAY
OFOF
BENGAL
BENGAL

Mo Han
Mo Han

THAILAND
THAILAND


CHINA
CHINA

LakeLake
Baikal
Baikal

Irkutsk
Irkutsk

Heihe
Heihe

UlanUlan
UdeUde

Manzhouli
Manzhouli

er er
Riv Riv
ur ur
Am Am

Yichun
Yichun
Qiqihar
Qiqihar HEILONGJIANG
HEILONGJIANG

ULAN
BATOR
ULAN
BATOR

Harbin
Harbin
Changchun
Changchun

INNER
INNER
MONGOLIA
MONGOLIA

R TR T
S ES E
D ED E
I
I
B B
G OG O

Erlianhot
Erlianhot

Shenyang
Shenyang

JilinJilin
JILIN
JILIN

Changbai
Changbai
Shan
Shan
Nature
Nature
Reserve

Reserve

NORTH
JinzhouLIAONING
Jinzhou
LIAONING NORTH
KOREA
KOREA
HEBEI
HEBEI
SEASEA
OFOF
Hohhot
Hohhot
Chengde
Chengde
Dandong
Dandong
JAPAN
JAPAN
WallWall
YelloYwelRloivwerRiver
GreaGtreat
BJSBJS
PYONGYANG
PYONGYANG
BEIJING
Datong
Datong BEIJING
Tangshan

Tangshan
Dalian
Dalian
TJSTJSTianjin
WutaiWutai
Shan Shan
of Bohai
Tianjin Bay ofBayBohai

Taiyuan
Taiyuan

Yinchuan
Yinchuan

ng

SHANXI
SHANXI

NINGXIA
NINGXIA
Yan'an
Yan'an

Lanzhou
Lanzhou

Terracotta
Terracotta

Army
Army

GANSU
GANSU

Yuncheng
Yuncheng

Tai Shan
Tai Shan

SHANDONG
Anyang
AnyangSHANDONG

ver ver
i Ri i Ri
Hua Hua

HENAN
HENAN

Emei Emei
Shan Shan

Hefei
Hefei

Wudang

Wudang
Xiangfan
Shan Shan Xiangfan

DamDam

Chengdu
Chengdu
Chongqing
Chongqing

Zhangjiajie
Zhangjiajie

ive iver
YangYzainRg z i R

Nanjing
Nanjing

Fanjing
Fanjing
Shan Shan

Changsha
Changsha

Guilin
Guilin

Liuzhou
Ho HoLiuzhou
ng ng
Shu Shu
i Rivei rRiver

Nanning
Nanning

iver
Li R
iver
Li R

YUNNAN
YUNNAN

ZHEJIANG
ZHEJIANG
Jingdezhen
Jingdezhen

Nanchang
Nanchang

JIANGXI
JIANGXI

Heng Heng
Shan Shan

Guiyang
Guiyang

n

Shanghai
Suzhou
Suzhou Shanghai
SHANGHAI
SHANGHAI
SHISHI

Dongting
Dongting
Hu

HUNAN
HUNAN Hu

GUIZHOU
GUIZHOU

FUJIAN
FUJIAN

GUANGXI
YouyiYouyi GUANGXI
Hekou
Hekou GuanGuan

Beihai
Beihai

Guangzhou
Guangzhou

Zhuhai
Zhuhai

metres
metres

MACAU
MACAU

Taipei
Taipei
TAIWAN
TAIWAN

60006000
50005000
40004000
30003000

Shenzhen
Shenzhen
HONG
HONG
KONG

KONG

20002000
10001000

HANOI
HANOI

Sanya
Sanya

PACIFIC
PACIFIC
OCEAN
OCEAN

EAST
EAST
CHINA
CHINA
SEASEA

Fuzhou
Fuzhou
Ganzhou
Ganzhou

Xiamen
Xiamen
Meizhou

Meizhou
GUANGDONG
GUANGDONG

Wuzhou
Wuzhou

VIETNAM
LAOS
LAOS VIETNAM
HAINAN
HAINAN

JAPAN
JAPAN

Hangzhou
HangzhouNingbo
Ningbo

Poyang
Poyang
Hu Hu

Leshan
Leshanr

SEASEA

Tai Hu

Tai Hu

HUBEI
HUBEI
CHONGQING
CHONGQING
ANHUI
ANHUI
HuangHuang
Wuhan
Wuhan
SHISHI
Shan Shan
Three
Gorges
Three
Gorges

N

Qingdao
Qingdao YELLOW
YELLOW

JIANGSU
JIANGSU
Xuzhou Hongze
Hongze
Hu Hu
Kaifeng

Kaifeng Xuzhou

Song Shan
Song Shan

SHAANXI
SHAANXI

Songpan
Songpan

SOUTH
SOUTH
KOREA
KOREA

Zhengzhou
Zhengzhou

Xi’anXi’an
Jiuzhaigou
Jiuzhaigou
Scenic
Scenic
Reserve
Reserve

Ji'nan
Ji'nan

SEOUL
SEOUL

Yantai
Yantai

Shijiazhuang
Shijiazhuang

500 500

Haikou
Haikou
WuzhiWuzhi
Shan Shan

SOUTH
SOUTH
CHINA
CHINA
SEASEA

200 200

PHILIPPINES
PHILIPPINES

0

0

8

INTRODUCTION

MARTIAL ARTS
Thousands of martial arts have evolved in China, usually in isolated communities that
had to defend themselves, such as temples and clan villages. All, though, can be classed into
two basic types: external (“hard”) styles concentrate on building up physical strength to
overpower opponents; the trickier internal (“soft”) styles concentrate on developing and
focusing the internal energy known as qi. Both styles use forms – prearranged sets of
movements – to develop the necessary speed, power and timing; as well as kicks, punches
and open palm strikes, they also incorporate movements inspired by animals.
The most famous external style is Shaolin kung fu, developed in the Shaolin Temple in
Henan province (see box, p.264) and known for powerful kicks and animal styles – notably
eagle, mantis and monkey. The classic Shaolin weapon is the staff, and there’s even a drunken
form, where the practitioner sways and lurches as if inebriated.
But the style that you’re most likely to see – it’s practised in the open all over the country – is
the internal tai ji quan. The body is held in a state of minimal tension to create the art’s
characteristic “soft” appearance. Its emphasis on slow movements and increasing qi flow
means it is excellent for health, and it’s a popular workout for the elderly.

Terracotta Army still stands guard over the tomb of Emperor Qin Shi Huang. Other
ancient towns include sleepy Kaifeng in Henan, and Qufu, the birthplace of Confucius,
in Shandong, both offering architectural treasures and an intimate, human scale that’s
hard to find in the large cities. The area is also well supplied with holy mountains,
providing both beautiful scenery and a rare continuity with the past: Tai Shan is perhaps
the grandest and most imperial of the country’s pilgrimage sites; Song Shan in Henan
sees followers of the contemporary kung fu craze making the trek to the Shaolin Temple,

where the art originated; and Wutai Shan in Shanxi features some of the best-preserved
religious sites in the country.
Dominating China’s east coast near the mouth of the Yangzi, Shanghai is the
mainland’s most Westernized city, a booming port where the Art Deco monuments
of the old European-built Bund – the riverside business centre – rub shoulders with
a hypermodern metropolis, crowned with some of the world’s tallest skyscrapers.
Shanghai’s modernity and profit-driven population finds a natural rival in the
international commercial hub of Hong Kong, off China’s south coast. With its colonial
heritage and refreshingly cosmopolitan outlook, there’s almost nothing Hong Kong
cannot offer in the way of tourist facilities, from fine beaches to great eating, drinking
and nightlife. Nearby Macau is also worth a visit, if not for its casinos then for its
Baroque churches and Portuguese cuisine.
In the southwest of the country, Sichuan’s Chengdu and Yunnan’s Kunming remain two
of China’s most easy-going provincial capitals, and the entire region is, by any standards,
exceptionally diverse, with landscapes encompassing everything from snowbound
summits and alpine lakes to steamy tropical jungles. The karst (limestone peak) scenery
is particularly renowned, especially along the Li River between Yangshuo and Guilin in
Guangxi. In Sichuan, pilgrims flock to see the colossal Great Buddha at Leshan, and to
ascend the holy mountain of Emei Shan; to the east, the city of Chongqing marks the
start of river trips down the Yangzi, Asia’s longest river, through the Three Gorges. As
Yunnan and Guangxi share borders with Vietnam, Laos and Myanmar (Burma), and
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP HIGH-SPEED TRAIN NANJING; MONG KOK FOOD STALL, HONG KONG; HAND-PRINTING CHINESE SCRIPT



10

INTRODUCTION

Sichuan rubs up against Tibet, it’s not surprising

to find that the area is home to dozens of ethnic
• With an area of 9.6 million
autonomous regions. The attractions of the latter
square kilometres, China is the
range from the traditional Bai town of Dali, the
fourth-largest country in the
world and the most populous
wild splendor of Tiger Leaping Gorge and the Dai
nation on Earth, with around
villages of Xishuangbanna in Yunnan, to the
1.38 billion people. Of these,
Khampa
heartlands of western Sichuan, the
92 percent are of the Han
ethnic group, with the remainder
exuberant festivals and textiles of Guizhou’s Miao
comprising 55 officially
and the wooden architecture of Dong settlements
recognized minorities such as
in Guangxi’s north.
Mongols, Uyghurs and Tibetans.
The huge area of China referred to as the
• The main religions are
Northwest is where the people thin out and
Buddhism, Taoism, Islam and
Christianity, though the country
real wilderness begins. Inner Mongolia, just
is officially atheist.
hours from Beijing, is already at the frontiers
• China’s longest river is the

of Central Asia; here you can follow in the
Yangzi (6275km) and the highest
footsteps of Genghis Khan by horseriding on
peak is Chomolungma – Mount
Everest (8850m) – on the
the endless grasslands of the steppe. To the
Nepalese border.
south and west, the old Silk Road heads out
• The Chinese Communist
of Xi’an right to and through China’s western
Party is the sole political
borders, via Jiayuguan, terminus of the Great
organization, and is divided into
Wall of China, and the lavish Buddhist cave art
Executive, Legislative and Judicial
branches. The chief of state
in the sandy deserts of Dunhuang.
(President) and the head of
West of here lie the mountains and deserts of
government (Premier) are elected
vast Xinjiang, where China blends into old
for five-year terms at the National
People’s Congress.
Turkestan and where simple journeys between
• Though few industries are
towns become modern travel epics. The oasis cities
state owned nowadays, the
of Turpan and Kashgar, with their bazaars and
uncontrolled free-market
Muslim

heritage, are the main attractions, though
economy of recent times is being
reigned in by the current
the blue waters of Tian Chi, offering alpine scenery
administration.
in the midst of searing desert, are deservedly
popular. Beyond Kashgar, travellers face some of
the most adventurous routes of all, over the Khunjerab and Torugart passes to Pakistan
and Kyrgyzstan respectively.
Tibet remains an exotic destination. Despite 65 years of Chinese rule, coupled with
a mass migration of Han Chinese into the region, the manifestations of Tibetan
culture are perceptibly intact – the Potala Palace in Lhasa, red-robed monks, lines
of pilgrims turning prayer wheels, butter sculptures and gory frescoes decorating
monastery halls. And Tibet’s mountain scenery, which includes Mount Everest and
Mount Kailash is worth the trip in itself, even if opportunities for independent travel
are very limited.
FACT FILE

OPPOSITE FROM TOP LONGJI TITIAN, “DRAGON’S SPINE TERRACES” (P.623); TAI JI ON THE BUND, SHANGHAI (P.352)



12

INTRODUCTION

When to go
China’s climate is extremely diverse. The south is subtropical, with wet, humid summers
(April–Sept), when temperatures can approach 40°C, and a typhoon season on the
southeast coast between July and September. Though it is often still hot enough to swim

in the sea in December, the short winters (Jan–March) can be surprisingly chilly.
Central China has brief, cold winters, with temperatures dipping below zero, and long,
hot, humid summers: the three Yangzi cities – Chongqing, Wuhan and Nanjing – are
proverbially referred to as China’s three “furnaces”. Rainfall here is high all year round.
The Yellow River basin marks a rough boundary beyond which central heating is fitted as
standard in buildings, helping to make the region’s harsh winters a little more tolerable.
Winter temperatures in Beijing rarely rise above freezing from December to March, and
biting winds off the Mongolian plains add a vicious wind-chill factor, yet summers can
be well over 30°C. In Inner Mongolia and Dongbei, winters are at least clear and dry,
but temperatures remain way below zero, while summers can be uncomfortably warm.
Xinjiang gets fiercely hot in summer, though without the humidity of the rest of the
country, and winters are as bitter as anywhere else in northern China. Tibet is ideal in
midsummer, when its mountain plateaus are pleasantly warm and dry; in winter,
however, temperatures in the capital, Lhasa, frequently fall below freezing.
Overall, the best time to visit China is spring or autumn, when the weather is at its
most temperate.
AVERAGE TEMPERATURES AND RAINFALL
Jan

Feb

March April

May

June

July

Aug

1/-10 4/-8
34/14 39/18
4
5

11/-1
52/30
8

21/7
70/45
17

27/13
81/55
35

31/18
88/64
78

31/21 30/20
88/70 86/68
243 141

9/5 13/7
48/41 55/45
15
20

18/11
64/52
38

23/16
73/61
99

27/19
81/66
142

29/22
84/72
180

18/13 17/13
64/55 63/55
33
46

19/16
66/61
74

24/19
75/66
137

28/23
82/73
292

20/8 22/9
68/46 72/48
8
18

25/12
77/54
28

28/16
82/61
41

8/1
8/1
46/34 46/34
48
58

13/4
55/39
84

19/10
66/50
94

Sept

Oct

Nov

Dec

26/14 20/6
79/57 68/43
58
16

9/-2
48/28
11

3/-8
37/18
3

34/24 35/25
93/75 95/77
142 122

28/22 22/16
82/72 72/61
150
112

16/12
61/54
48

3/-8
37/18
20

29/26
84/79
394

31/26 31/26
88/79 88/79
381 367

29/25 27/23
84/77 81/73
257
114

23/18
73/64
43

20/15
68/59
31

29/18
84/64
127

29/19
84/66
132

28/19 28/19
82/66 82/66
196 198

28/18 24/15
82/64 75/59
97
51

22/12
72/54
56

20/8
68/46
15

25/15
77/59
94

28/19

82/66
180

32/23 32/23
90/73 90/73
147 142

28/19 23/14
82/66 73/57
130
71

17/7
63/45
51

12/2
54/36
36

BEIJING
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rainfall (mm)

CHONGQING
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rainfall (mm)

HONG KONG
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rainfall (mm)

KUNMING
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SHANGHAI
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Author picks
Our authors spent several months researching
every corner of China, from sprawling Mongolian
grasslands to city nightclubs, Tibet’s awe-inspiring
mountains and Beijing’s maze of hutongs. These
destinations are some of their personal favourites.

High-tech cityscapes For superlative views of
glittering urban architecture, head to the
Shanghai Tower (p.366) or the Peak in Hong Kong
(p.554) – preferably at night – and gaze down
across forests of luminous, futuristic towers.
Ethnic minorities Experience China’s cultural
diversity in Tibetan monastery towns (pp.896–921),

Dai and Bai villages (p.685), Uyghur mosques
(p.852) and Mongolian nomad tents (p.236).

Epic scenery Drink in dramatic landscapes at
Lake Karakul, its fridgid shores grazed by bactrian
camels (p.862); Zhangjiajie’s spectacular forest of
splintered stone pinnacles, wreathed in cloud
(p.439); and the grandeur of Meili Xue Shan’s
frosted summit (p.703).

Chinese cuisine Indulge yourself with a crispy,
calorie-laden Peking duck in Beijing (p.108), a
simple bowl of beef noodles in Lanzhou (p.801), a
bright and noisy dim sum breakfast in Hong Kong
(p.581), or one of Sichuan’s scorching, chilli-laden
hotpots (p.730).

Top hikes Wear out your hiking shoes on a
two-day trail through Tiger Leaping Gorge
(p.697), the 65km-long staircase to the summit of
Emei Shan (p.752) or a two-hour leg stretch along
Hong Kong’s Dragon’s Back path (p.559).

Traditional architecture Explore the medieval
walled town of Pingyao (p.251), Jokhang Tibetan
temple (p.888), domestic buildings at Yixian
(p.407), the Dong drum towers and bridges at the
Guangxi–Guizhou border (p.626) and Zigong’s
merchant guildhalls (p.756).

Vanished cultures The country’s inhospitable, far
western fringes hide remains of long-forgotten
civilizations. Try Tibet’s all-but-unheard-of Guge
Kingdom (p.921) or the haystack-shaped
mausoleums of Ningxia’s Western Xia rulers (p.225).
Our author recommendations don’t end
here. We’ve flagged up our favourite places
– a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric
café, a special restaurant – throughout the
Guide, highlighted with the ★ symbol.
FROM TOP LAKE KARAKUL; THE JOKHANG, LHASA; DONG DRUM
TOWER, ZHAOXING


14

31 THINGS NOT TO MISS

31

things not to miss
It’s not possible to see everything that China has to offer in one trip – and
we don’t suggest you try. What follows is a selective taste of the highlights:
natural wonders and outstanding sights, plus the best activities and
experiences. All highlights have a page reference to take you straight
into the Guide, where you can find out more.


15

TERRACOTTA
ARMY, XI’AN
Page 212
These 2200-year-old,
life-sized warriors protect the
tomb of China’s first
emperor.

JIAYUGUAN FORT,
GANSU
Page 820
Famously lonely desert
outpost, guarding the
remote western tail end of
the Great Wall.

HONG KONG
HARBOUR VIEWS
Page 561
Take the Star Ferry to Tsim
Sha Tsui to admire one of the
world’s most spectacular
cityscapes.


16

LABRANG
MONASTERY, XIAHE
Page 804

Rub shoulders with pilgrims
and red-robed clergy at
this enormous complex,
one of the pivots of
Tibetan Lamaism.

THE YELLOW RIVER
AT SHAPOTOU
Page 221
Witness how “China’s Sorrow”,
the mighty Yellow River, is
being used to revegetate
desert dunes.

TIGER LEAPING
GORGE, YUNNAN
Page 697
One of China’s great hikes,
along a steep-sided canyon,
with attractive homestays
along the way.

KASHGAR’S SUNDAY
MARKET
Page 853
Central Asian crowds trade
sheep, horses, cattle, camels
and more at Xinjiang’s premier
frontier bazaar.

THE JOKHANG,
LHASA
Page 888
Stuffed with gorgeous
statuary and wreathed in
juniper smoke, this is
Tibet’s holiest temple.

TAKING TEA,
SICHUAN
Page 734
Offering unlimited
refills, Sichuanese
teahouses make relaxed
places to drink, socialize,
read or gossip.

CRUISING THE
YANGZI RIVER
Page 769
Enjoy awesome scenery
and intriguing history
in a journey through
China’s dramatic
Three Gorges.

SILK ROAD
SAND DUNES

Page 826
Ride camels across vast
dunes at Dunhuang, and
explore the nearby
ancient Mogao Buddhist
grottoes.

MINORITY
VILLAGES,
YUNNAN
Page 714
Bordering Laos, Burma
and Vietnam, Yunnan’s
28 recognized ethnic
groups enjoy distinct
cultures and lifestyles.



CHENGDE
Page 147
The former imperial
retreat from the heat of
summer holds a string of
pretty temples.

MOUNT
KAILASH, TIBET
Page 920
Make a tough pilgrimage

circuit around this
striking mountain,
considered holy by four
different religions.

TAI SHAN,
SHANDONG
Page 296
A taxing ascent up
endless stone staircases
is rewarded with some
immaculate temples
and pavilions.

SISTERS’ MEAL
FESTIVAL
Page 646
Join thousands of locals
at Taijiang, Guizhou,
during a wild three-day
showcase of ethnic Miao
culture.

HANGING
TEMPLE, HENG
SHAN
Page 244
Rickety wooden shrines
to China’s three core
faiths, suspended on a

cliff-face by flimsylooking scaffolding.




23
MOGAO CAVES,
GANSU
Page 826
Roam millennia-old grottoes,
packed with beautiful
Buddhist sculptures, at this
former Silk Road pilgrimage
site.

PINGYAO, SHAANXI
Page 251
With an old town encircled by
massive stone walls, Pingyao
is a splendid time capsule of
Qing-dynasty architecture.

THE GREAT WALL
Page 119
Hike along unrestored
sections of this monumental
barrier, which once protected
China from the outside world.

HARBIN ICE

FESTIVAL
Page 185
Enjoy a fantastical array
of hand-carved tableaux –
including full-sized castles –
all luridly illuminated from
within.

CHANGBAI SHAN
NATURE RESERVE
Page 178
Remote wilderness whose
stunning highlight is the view
over Tian Chi, “Heaven’s Lake”,
into North Korea.